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Eyes Only posted:For my invesments I just list everything as a fraction of the index market cap. This way I don't care if prices go up or down, I still own 0.0000005% of America. And some Europe too. Now that would be a hell of a digit to see roll over.
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Nov 26, 2014 20:52
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Sephiroth_IRA posted:I listened to a podcast the other day featuring MMM and it felt good to hear him say he didn't keep a budget. Once I effectively changed my lifestyle/psychology I no longer had a use for them. My diet hit that phase in the last 6 months. My money budget isn't quite there yet, but it's definitely getting closer. Put in those terms, it really does feel like a light at the end of a tunnel.
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Nov 26, 2014 21:03
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Yeah, thinking of it like a new healthy diet that slowly turns into a healthy lifestyle you really don't have to put much thought into is a good way to think about it.
Sephiroth_IRA fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Nov 26, 2014 |
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Nov 26, 2014 21:35
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Sephiroth_IRA posted:I listened to a podcast the other day featuring MMM and it felt good to hear him say he didn't keep a budget. Once I effectively changed my lifestyle/psychology I no longer had a use for them. I've never kept a budget since I tend to be a saver, although I probably would be doing significantly better if I did. My sister has always been good about it though; for example, she's kept a spreadsheet of every single bit of maintenance in her old Accord she's had since she was in high school ten years ago  I fully expect she'd be able to retire at 35-40 if she wanted to, and her career isn't super lucrative or anything. Folly posted:My diet hit that phase in the last 6 months. This I have been doing, and it's definitely helped. I've lost weight before, but actually tracking calories/macros as well as "exercise in" has been pretty illuminating and has lead to much faster and more consistent results. I'm feeling myself need it less (getting in kind of a routine with healthy staple foods, as well as exercising), but I'm going to stick with it until I hit my goal, which should be... pretty soon, actually.
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Nov 26, 2014 22:31
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If there was a mint equivalent for calorie counting (there might be for smart phones but I don't have a data plan atm) I could do it but right now I just focus on cutting out the processed crap and replace everything with real food. Like I was always annoyed at sandwich bread for not being very filling and I wanted to find a simple replacement for it. Lo and behold it turns out you can easily dig out a cucumber in the shape of a sub and use that. I had one cucumber sub last night and I stayed full until lunch today. So good.
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Nov 27, 2014 01:01
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Sephiroth_IRA posted:If there was a mint equivalent for calorie counting (there might be for smart phones but I don't have a data plan atm) I could do it but right now I just focus on cutting out the processed crap and replace everything with real food. My wife uses this off and on.
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Nov 27, 2014 02:32
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ladyweapon posted:I went from contract to prepaid with Verizon and the sales girl in store said I could keep my current number if I wanted. Hmmmm. Thanks for responding. Perhaps I just need to go in and make more of a fuss, I asked the salesperson in passing when I went in to buy a new charger last month. Perhaps I need to have them pull up my acct and talk specifics. I've been with them for a very, very long time so maybe that will hold some weight.
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Nov 27, 2014 04:12
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MAKE NO BABBYS posted:My contract with Verizon is ending and I am not interested in renewing it. I have a Verizon iPhone 5S (so CDMA) and wanted to switch to a prepaid or month to month service. I am confused as to whether my phone will work on other networks? Googling around, some sites say iPhones 5 and above are transportable, other sites seem to indicate they wont. Anyone have any experience with this? Can anyone recommend a good prepaid or month to month service they have used? If I can get this to work it will cut my bill by 50-65%, based on the advertised prices... I asked Verizon about their prepaid service but the rep said I'd have to change my number switching from a contract. Laws were put in place four years ago for these types of issues. If you are still in the same area as you were when you got the number then it is doable to port your number to a new service. It might take some time, a day or two, to do it but it can be done. I did this to make my land line into a VoIP phone last year and after the initial $45 to get the new VoIP box and cable I have not paid any landline phone bill in over 12 months. Also going through Google Voice means free VoIP service. If I call international numbers then I pay per minute but otherwise free service. For people who have a stable internet connection and can spend a few days with possibly hiccuping service, this beats paying a phone company >$20 per month. I should have done that years ago when AT&T started charging us more every year. BouncingBuckyBalls fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Nov 27, 2014 |
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Nov 27, 2014 04:57
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Don't go to your current provider. The number transfer is initiated directly from your new provider to your old. There have been instances of the old provider canceling contracts and removing numbers from accounts before the transfer requests take place, when notified of customers intention to switch. Once that is done, the number is lost.
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Nov 27, 2014 13:32
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You shouldn't count calories spent doing exercise.  It's a bit like counting money saved as money "earned". Sort of motivating but really flawed at a basic level.
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Nov 27, 2014 14:28
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I've been using My Fitness Pal, which I like for having basically everything I can think of (aside from local non-chain restaurants) already entered by people already. tuyop posted:You shouldn't count calories spent doing exercise. Yes, I can see how I shouldn't adjust my diet at all when I do poo poo like ride 100 miles on my bicycle in a day.
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Nov 27, 2014 14:39
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tuyop posted:You shouldn't count calories spent doing exercise. What? Calories in are meant to be balanced with calories out. How else are you supposed to make gains and cut?
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Nov 27, 2014 15:00
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The calorie estimates given to you by an app or machine are laughably inaccurate and usually overestimate calories spent. The best method is to track consistently and observe results on the scale and mirror and adjust. If you're an athlete at the point of cycling 500-700 miles a week, you should have a pretty advanced understanding of your nutritional requirements or you already eat a ton of food habitually. In this case you can track exercise if you want, but the track>observe>adjust method will work for you as well as a dude lifting his first weight, so it's a good rule of thumb.
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Nov 27, 2014 15:11
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For general fitness and weight-watching: eat small portions and try to stay slightly hungry. This advice works whether you're sedentary or Olympian. It's usually a good idea to go to bed hungry. Power-lifters and bulking: eat until you're comfortably full at least twice a day, supplement your diet with protein mixes, and do triple set rotations of your lifts at least every other day. Snack heavily whenever you feel like it. Please note: you will gain a ridiculous amount of weight doing this, and it's not at all a sustainable lifestyle. However, if you want to become considerably stronger, it's the most direct path. Cutting weight is the step after gaining bulk, and it can be extremely difficult to achieve when you're used to a bulking diet. It's not all that different from boom/bust credit cycles of finance.
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Nov 27, 2014 23:45
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Nocheez posted:What? Calories in are meant to be balanced with calories out. How else are you supposed to make gains and cut? You record all of it if you are using myfitnesspal. Otherwise all the tracking would be completely wrong. It is all an energy balance, and if you set weight loss or gain it sets your daily energy requirement to hit the target.
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Nov 27, 2014 23:50
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Devian666 posted:You record all of it if you are using myfitnesspal. Otherwise all the tracking would be completely wrong. It is all an energy balance, and if you set weight loss or gain it sets your daily energy requirement to hit the target. Tuyop's experience matches mine. The calorie expenditure estimates are laughably bad in every one of those trackers I've tried. Hell, the estimated calorie values of most foods aren't great. I could not lose weight if I tried to include my exercise calories in my food budget. Instead, I just set a level of calories that I intended to eat and then maintained a weekly consistent exercise level. I didn't let myself eat more on workout days. You simply can't account it like you do with money. Now, in the last year (especially the last 6 months), my body simply won't let me over-consume. When I try to overeat I just start feeling so stuffed that I'm sick. I'll come back after a big eating day like today and find I've gained like 1 lb. I didn't gain any weight at all last holiday season, and since the summer I've been hovering around 10-12% bodyfat with no effort or tracking at all. I actually tried to eat whatever I wanted on vacation last month and simply didn't gain any weight. I don't question thermodynamics, so it has to be a change in the way my body regulates hunger. Whatever was unbalanced about my leptin or my blood sugar or whatever just isn't out of whack anymore. I've had several lifestyle and diet changes in the past year, all unrelated to intentionally losing weight, and some combination of them and time seems to have cured me. After about 7-8 years spent scrutinizing everything eat, it feels pretty liberating. I can't wait to get to that phase with money budgeting. Once we get done fixing up our house, we probably will be there.
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Nov 28, 2014 00:56
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Devian666 posted:You record all of it if you are using myfitnesspal. Otherwise all the tracking would be completely wrong. It is all an energy balance, and if you set weight loss or gain it sets your daily energy requirement to hit the target. You're correct that it's about balancing calories in and calories out. The problem is that you can have only a reasonably accurate picture of calories in, and nearly no picture of calories out at all*. It would be like if mint displayed your paycheque by emojis, based on some randomly generated arcane metric that nobody was privy to. You wouldn't listen to mint, you would spend as little as possible depending on your goals, and observe to see if your account balance (your metaphorical weight) increased or decreased, then adjust spending accordingly. For some people, they would try listening to mint's emoji income reporting and the law of averages would allow them to achieve success. For most others, they'd spend as much as they think they can and end up no better off financially and probably worse. This is also how "dieting" usually ends up for most people, for the same reason. * Calories out would require an incredibly invasive amount of data collection to measure accurately, so much so that you'd barely be able to move. I don't think it's actually possible to measure how many calories someone expends in a given activity and to generalize it to another person in a useful way. By all means, go for like 25 calories per mile or whatever for bike riding so that you don't bonk and die, but if you're at that point you're already so far above the average dieter that it's ridiculous to advocate this method for someone spending 25 minutes on an elliptical to drop 15 pounds someday.
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Nov 28, 2014 01:21
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That's a fair set of points. When I use the app extensively the exercise estimates for energy burnt is generally wrong for me as I tend to burn more energy than what is listed. Some exercises I enter I have to do a correction. If just tracking food energy works then no reason to change.
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Nov 28, 2014 01:57
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Agh I just dropped $450 on a new mattress but I need it I've had my last one for like six years now and it is killing my back. Had the money set aside and ready but it still burns me inside dropping that much cash all at once.
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Nov 28, 2014 03:49
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100 HOGS AGREE posted:Agh I just dropped $450 on a new mattress but I need it I've had my last one for like six years now and it is killing my back. Had the money set aside and ready but it still burns me inside dropping that much cash all at once. I did the same thing not too long ago and like yourself back pain was the main reason. There's no reason to beat yourself up over it, you can't put a price on having a better nights sleep and not waking up in pain.
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Nov 28, 2014 13:50
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We just spent 1400 framing space art. I have sticker shock. So bad with money.
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Nov 29, 2014 13:32
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Rurutia posted:We just spent 1400 framing space art. I have sticker shock. So bad with money. But do your curtains still open manually?! Edit: Yesterday in class I was teaching about the fur trade and pulled up a pull-down world map to reveal a pull-down Canada map but I never have luck with those things so I pulled it down really hard and it shot up into the spool and ripped! The teacher who regularly runs the classroom (I'm student teaching) was PISSED and had to leave the room. I intend to replace it and it turns out similar maps are loving three hundred dollars.  I mean, the good news is that I haven't had time to eat (out or home-made) or spend money on fun things this month so the budget is looking great, but all those gains are basically consumed by the classroom equivalent of putting my car in a lake.  In the background you can see the map that I tore. I need to find the same brand and it was probably purchased in the loving nineties. 
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Nov 29, 2014 17:15
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tuyop posted:But do your curtains still open manually?! Wait, is this a thing?? Of course it's a thing. We actually decided that since we're probably going to move into a bigger house in the next few years, we're not going to spend money on improvements we can't take with us. Is that good with money?
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Nov 29, 2014 17:20
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Rurutia posted:We actually decided that since we're probably going to move into a bigger house in the next few years, we're not going to spend money on improvements we can't take with us. Is that good with money? Depends on the upgrade/improvement. There are some good bang-for-your-buck improvements that will net you more in a later sale than they'll cost to do. I'm not suggesting to remodel everything in a house you plan to leave in a few years, but if the house has a lovely bathroom and you can do a small, mostly superficial reno to make it nice, it can really bring up your homes value. Plus, you know, you can use the bathroom until then. Doubleplus good if you're handy and can do any of the project yourself.
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Nov 29, 2014 20:39
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Inverse Icarus posted:Depends on the upgrade/improvement. There are some good bang-for-your-buck improvements that will net you more in a later sale than they'll cost to do. Yeah, the house has nothing that'd even break even. We're still doing the landscaping ourselves.
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Nov 29, 2014 22:14
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tuyop posted:In the background you can see the map that I tore. I need to find the same brand and it was probably purchased in the loving nineties. Yeah, the East Germany unit could be at stake here. 
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Nov 30, 2014 15:17
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So I sold my car a few weeks ago. Feels good. $500 more in free cashflow a month, and I don't need to worry about parking. Got $900 after loan. Put $400 towards my line of credit, and $500 for a good winter coat, because I threw out my old one last spring. Got a good deal too, so woo. Still need boots though. gently caress winter.
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Dec 1, 2014 05:29
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FrozenVent posted:$500 for a good winter coat... Got a good deal too, so woo. What kind of coat was $500 that was a good deal?
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Dec 1, 2014 12:38
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A decent down parka?
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Dec 1, 2014 12:44
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FrozenVent posted:A decent down parka? Wasn't judging, just genuinely curious. I just was shopping for down parkas and was bummed to not find a decent one and in the low $200 range. I decided that for the 5-10 days temps with windchill below zero I get wasn't worth the expenditure. Most were well in the $300 range though. Maybe your climate dictates a $500 coat?
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Dec 1, 2014 13:17
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Yeah, Montreal in the winter gets pretty brutal. It's not the cheapest coat I could have gotten, but it's locally made with a great warranty / repair policy. It's actually synthetic down or whatnot. A decent winter jacket starts at $400 or so in my experience. Something that'll last more than two years anyway. FrozenVent fucked around with this message at 14:08 on Dec 1, 2014 |
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Dec 1, 2014 14:05
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I've had my acteryx synthetic winter jacket for three years now. $650 retail, $150 with military discount and a sale.  I'd like some new ski pants and stuff though. And winter boots, I tend to walk around in temperate hiking boots and it's really uncomfortable in Edmonton, especially with chilblains from frostbite a few years ago.
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Dec 1, 2014 14:15
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I didn't buy anything in this Thanksgiving shopping season despite having the most money and income I've ever had in my entire life. It feels simultaneously lovely and awesome. Mostly, it's that I'm thinking two steps ahead: if I buy this thing, then it means I have to buy these other things and rearrange my lifestyle to accommodate all those things. Total cost: 200% of what I'm willing to spend plus more poo poo to keep track of. I'll just keep saving my money.
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Dec 1, 2014 15:57
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My Wife made the most amazing statement the other day. She said she wants to simplify her life, and start getting rid of junk she doesn't need. I'm looking forward to cleaning house and reclaiming some space.
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Dec 1, 2014 16:32
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Nocheez posted:My Wife made the most amazing statement the other day. She said she wants to simplify her life, and start getting rid of junk she doesn't need. I'm looking forward to cleaning house and reclaiming some space. Congrats, I know that has to feel good. My wife doesn't buy much but she has a hard time getting rid of stuff, thankfully she doesn't seem to mind when I throw/give things away.
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Dec 2, 2014 01:51
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"Please be advised that on your specific loan type, each time you send more than the required payment amount, the additional funds are deducted from your principal balance and advances to the next months due date as long as the interest is satisfied. If you would like to send additional principal payments and not have them reflected towards your upcoming monthly payment, you may do so by mailing the funds to…" My brain is having trouble with this. So, when I pay extra it's coming off the principal…? I don't get what "and advances to the next months due date" means. 
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Dec 5, 2014 05:47
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spinst posted:"Please be advised that on your specific loan type, each time you send more than the required payment amount, the additional funds are deducted from your principal balance and advances to the next months due date as long as the interest is satisfied. If you would like to send additional principal payments and not have them reflected towards your upcoming monthly payment, you may do so by mailing the funds to…" In other words, your payment dollars satisfy first loan interest, then loan principal. If you pay additional principal on a given payment, then your minimum payment for the following month will be reduced, because your cumulative payments to date will be ahead of schedule. Some income-based repayment plans might accrue more interest than the minimum payment, in which case you would need to first pay the full interest before any rollover occurred. To provide an example, suppose that your minimum payment is $50 per month, of which $10 is interest. You send a check for $75. Then next month your minimum payment is $25, because you have paid $25 of loan principal ahead of schedule. It is unclear (at least to me) if you can, in this example, send $200 and have a $0 minimum payment for the next three billing cycles. In addition, if you want, then you can send the funds to a different address to prevent them from reducing your next monthly payment (which consequently reduces the maximum loan term, since your minimum payments do not change). You might choose to do that in some situations for convenience if you have an automatic monthly payment set up (otherwise, the automatic payment would be reduced or perhaps eliminated depending on the overpayment). If you can force an automatic monthly payment to always pay the nominal monthly payment, then I can't think of any other advantage to reducing your flexibility to defer payment in the future.
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Dec 5, 2014 08:11
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I'm not an expert, but I read 'advances to the next months' due date' as, if you overpay your monthly payment, the next payment will be due in more than a month from now - as in, the due date will advance. Which would be a weird way to set things up. E: Yeah, making the next month's payment smaller is far more likely
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Dec 5, 2014 14:51
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When I had my Sallie Mae loan I just made my payment manually every month and ignored the due date. I still got the autopay interest reduction because I was still technically on autopay, but if I let it go by itself it wouldn't autopay again for like another year usually. I refused to deal with their nonsense, who the gently caress wants to mail a goddamn check. 100 HOGS AGREE fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Dec 5, 2014 |
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Dec 5, 2014 15:02
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Yeah, my next car payment (the loan I was asking about) is due in August or something. I just wanted to make sure the extra $ I send in is going to principal.  Thank you!
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Dec 5, 2014 15:42
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