Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
aluminumonkey
Jun 19, 2002

Reggie loves tacos

DeathSandwich posted:

I did too before my most recent build, and it's a bigger pain in the rear end to install, but now it's together I'm way happier. Most performance air cpu coolers are the size of a brick and obnoxious to work around and I always get paranoid that they will break loose and pinball around if I ever go to move the case. Once the AIO is in, it's way lower profile on the mobo, it provides whole case airflow, and it's no louder than the case fans I would of installed in its place.

I thought I would of hated the RGB vomit of the capellix of this corsair aio, model, but it's actually less obnoxious than I thought and corsair actually had some slick RGB modes.

I guess in this from cyberpunk future we find ourselves in, RGB is the new neon.

I agree. Those newer air coolers are massive, but they do look kinda cool.

As for the RGB, I took out all my RGB fans and replaced them with black arctic ones. Only the AIO fans are RGB and I will always keep them red.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
Despite rgb being everywhere my motherboard's rgb (MSI) is terrible. There's only two headers and the software I am forced to use with it (Mystic Light) is terrible, completely useless presets to choose from. Not many competitors out there for common software and the ones there are don't support my motherboard. In order to make rgb not look a lot like unicorn puke I have to use third party rgb controllers.

The majority of those for some reason come with a remote control, I'm not using a dang remote control for addressable rgb!

Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Oct 26, 2022

DeathSandwich
Apr 24, 2008

I fucking hate puzzles.

Nolgthorn posted:

Despite rgb being everywhere my motherboard's rgb (MSI) is terrible. There's only two headers and the software I am forced to use with it (Mystic Light) is terrible, completely useless presets to choose from. Not many competitors out there for common software and the ones there are don't support my motherboard. In order to make rgb not look a lot like unicorn puke I have to use third party rgb controllers.

The majority of those for some reason come with a remote control, I'm not using a dang remote control for addressable rgb!

My corsair AIO rig came with a rgb commander unit. The main pump and all the fans plug into it (both rgb and power) , and then the commander hooks into sata power and then cables into a USB controller on the mobo, then it's all controlled through Corsair iCue in windows, which I already have for my other accessories.

I'm really happy I spent the little bit more money to upgrade to it from the msi guy I was originally looking at.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

DeathSandwich posted:

Good to know. I remember the positive case pressure thing from way back in the day when did builds way more regularly. I'm looking at a corsair 4000d case, so I'm going to front mount the radiator with those fans as output, and then in the rear and top mount fans will be configured for input. With 2x 140mm to and 1x 120 rear that should put me at net positive pressure.

I'm sorry, but this is not a good configuration. A top/back input pattern will starve your GPU for air because there are literally no intakes for it. If you're running a positive pressure setup, it won't be able to draw from the PCI slot covers, either. The rear mount is also unfiltered, which will lead to more dust intake as well.

If you really want a strong positive pressure system, do 2x140mm front intake, and put the rad as a top-mounted intake. This way your two hottest components will have plenty of fresh air, and exhaust won't be an issue with that much of a positive pressure system. Air will basically get pushed out of the case at every place it can.

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense

DeathSandwich posted:

My corsair AIO rig came with a rgb commander unit. The main pump and all the fans plug into it (both rgb and power) , and then the commander hooks into sata power and then cables into a USB controller on the mobo, then it's all controlled through Corsair iCue in windows, which I already have for my other accessories.

I'm really happy I spent the little bit more money to upgrade to it from the msi guy I was originally looking at.

I figured all this proprietary junk was a ripoff but the standards compliant stuff sucks apparently. I guess nobody uses it.

DeathSandwich
Apr 24, 2008

I fucking hate puzzles.

grack posted:

I'm sorry, but this is not a good configuration. A top/back input pattern will starve your GPU for air because there are literally no intakes for it. If you're running a positive pressure setup, it won't be able to draw from the PCI slot covers, either. The rear mount is also unfiltered, which will lead to more dust intake as well.

If you really want a strong positive pressure system, do 2x140mm front intake, and put the rad as a top-mounted intake. This way your two hottest components will have plenty of fresh air, and exhaust won't be an issue with that much of a positive pressure system. Air will basically get pushed out of the case at every place it can.

I changed it in the final build after getting the gear. I've it set to input through the front radiator and output though top and rear. You want the coldest intake air blowing over the radiator anyway rather than trying to vent waste heat acrost it. Still has net positive pressure and gpu heat hasn't been a problem.

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



If you like RGB just stick to corsair and ASUS, run it all through icue.

I have like 8 sata connections for RGB and it all runs perfectly.

There must be 300+ LEDs at this point between the LLfans, LSstrips and LCtiles.

AARP LARPer
Feb 19, 2005

THE DARK SIDE OF SCIENCE BREEDS A WEAPON OF WAR

Buglord
Ah, that explains the glowing I see off in the distance

aluminumonkey
Jun 19, 2002

Reggie loves tacos

spunkshui posted:

If you like RGB just stick to corsair and ASUS, run it all through icue.

I have like 8 sata connections for RGB and it all runs perfectly.

There must be 300+ LEDs at this point between the LLfans, LSstrips and LCtiles.

Please tell me you have it blink to music?!

aluminumonkey
Jun 19, 2002

Reggie loves tacos
Got everything up and running last night.......but one of the fans is a causing a loud scraping noise due to it hitting its shroud. I will be sending the Arctic LC ii 360 back and I will pick up a Corsair or comparable 280mm setup. This has been nothing but a pain.

pnumoman
Sep 26, 2008

I never get the last word, and it makes me very sad.
Hey folks, I just got my hands on a cheap 3080 with a Corsair waterblock on it (thanks SA mart!) and now I have to do my first watercooling setup. My question is what kind of radiator setup should I be looking at if I want to add a 5800X3D to the loop? Do I need two 360mm radiators or can I get away with less? I'm thinking of putting it in a Corsair 5000D case, but that's only because it can fit two 360mm radiators with one on the side panel since I'd like to keep the front panel open for fans for airflow. Also, any recommendations on a quiet pump and reservoir combo that's quiet and is appropriate for the radiator setup I would need? Thanks in advance, I'm excited since I've always wanted to do a watercooling setup but it's a bit overwhelming at the moment.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I've got 720 worth of radiator in my system with a 5900X and 3080 FE and with the fans on low it keeps everything cool under load. If you're willing to deal with louder fans you could probably achieve adequate cooling with 480 worth of radiator. I don't think I'd go less than that though.

I thought that card was a good deal. Glad someone jumped on it!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

pnumoman posted:

Hey folks, I just got my hands on a cheap 3080 with a Corsair waterblock on it (thanks SA mart!) and now I have to do my first watercooling setup. My question is what kind of radiator setup should I be looking at if I want to add a 5800X3D to the loop? Do I need two 360mm radiators or can I get away with less? I'm thinking of putting it in a Corsair 5000D case, but that's only because it can fit two 360mm radiators with one on the side panel since I'd like to keep the front panel open for fans for airflow. Also, any recommendations on a quiet pump and reservoir combo that's quiet and is appropriate for the radiator setup I would need? Thanks in advance, I'm excited since I've always wanted to do a watercooling setup but it's a bit overwhelming at the moment.

Hey I was in your position a year ago or so and it went great and I'm really happy with it.

The radiator question, I dunno I think you should run as much rad as you can fit without being dumb about it. The cost is basically just two fittings and 1 rad, which is a lot of value for that money in your loop.

pnumoman
Sep 26, 2008

I never get the last word, and it makes me very sad.
Thanks folks, I'll definitely go with 720 worth of radiator then. Any pump issues I should be aware of with that much radiator? My guess is that any standard watercooling pump/reservoir combo will be enough to push water through that much radiator..

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

pnumoman posted:

Thanks folks, I'll definitely go with 720 worth of radiator then. Any pump issues I should be aware of with that much radiator? My guess is that any standard watercooling pump/reservoir combo will be enough to push water through that much radiator..

Any D5 variant will get the job done. I have 700mm worth of radiator (140x5) and a ekwb PWM D5 pump that I mostly run at 30% or ~1900 RPM and it is more than adequate. Radiators aren't particularly high restriction components so they don't significantly contribute to the pump demands even if you have a lot of them. At 100% my D5 is likely circulating the entire fluid volume of my loop in something like 3-5 seconds, they are extremely overpowered for this application.

pnumoman
Sep 26, 2008

I never get the last word, and it makes me very sad.
Sweet, thanks for the info

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
what quality reputation do ekwb currently have? in theory i should get an arctic for a 360 aio, but theirs look so drat ugly, and it doesn't look like it's going to improve any time soon. and i just want the simplest non-rgb thing without a mess of cables and firmware

i like my d15, but it's so drat clunky to do anything inside the pc it's starting to drive me nuts. on top of how the 5800X3D temperatures love zig-zagging regardless of the fan curves

Indiana_Krom
Jun 18, 2007
Net Slacker

kliras posted:

what quality reputation do ekwb currently have? in theory i should get an arctic for a 360 aio, but theirs look so drat ugly, and it doesn't look like it's going to improve any time soon. and i just want the simplest non-rgb thing without a mess of cables and firmware

i like my d15, but it's so drat clunky to do anything inside the pc it's starting to drive me nuts. on top of how the 5800X3D temperatures love zig-zagging regardless of the fan curves
Fine in my experience, but even a massive overbuilt custom loop is probably not going to stop your 5800X3D from zig-sagging all over the place, that is just the nature of modern CPU packaging.

What you can do is throw a coolant temperature sensor in the loop and set your fan speeds based off that so it smooths out the RPMs naturally. Just set a linear curve from idle (400-500 RPM, silent) and have the throttle start increasing at around ~40C, with 100% throttle being around 50-55C depending on how aggressive you want the fans to ramp up. It takes 2-5 minutes of continuous sustained >400w load to warm up the average loops worth of coolant from 30C to 40C, the fans will not ramp up or down quickly at all.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
EKWB stuff is one of the better brands in my experience. I have an EKWB block on my CPU and GPU and they work great without issues. I've used a few different brands of fittings and the EKWB are among the nicest and easiest to work with.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

kliras posted:

what quality reputation do ekwb currently have? in theory i should get an arctic for a 360 aio, but theirs look so drat ugly, and it doesn't look like it's going to improve any time soon. and i just want the simplest non-rgb thing without a mess of cables and firmware

i like my d15, but it's so drat clunky to do anything inside the pc it's starting to drive me nuts. on top of how the 5800X3D temperatures love zig-zagging regardless of the fan curves

I'm extremely happy with EKWB stuff also (for me that's the whole system basically). I don't think I'd be as comfortable with a smaller company that may not be around in a year or have limited ability to RMA stuff etc. It's all been fine.

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
awesome, thanks!

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
Update on my loop.



Maybe not interesting to some but it'll probably stay like this for some time. I got the RGB hooked up finally to the RGBpx on my aquacomputer QUADRO. That is a really stupid connector type. It serves no purpose except to make itself smaller.

I moved the GPU up a slot, it was apparently occupying a 8x slot instead of the 16x slot. Someone pointed this out to me so I fixed it before finding out the 6600xt only uses 8x. I can't remember if I put it in the second slot on purpose because of this, but regardless it doesn't make any difference. I can't seem to get the RedDevil software to change the RGB on it anymore. So it's the only RGB in the case that's still cycling a rainbow.

Which isn't too bad, this was all meant to be primarily a functional/utility build and not necessarily a beautiful one anyway.

I am very happy I swapped out the tube reservoir for the FLT. I didn't realize just how out of date ekwb's tube reservoirs are, they look like nothing else in their lineup. Even for a utility build I didn't like looking at it.

My radiator is perhaps too big. It's a ekwb 360p and it keeps the ThreadRipper cool without the fans even going above 500rpm. I'm not complaining, this is great because the pc is silent, not like before at all, but this radiator barely fits, brushing against the ram and everything else. I would have been happier with their slim model I think it would have worked just as well.

I've got a filter on the back panel now and I'm using that fan, as well as the fans on the front all to draw air in, creating maybe more pressure than I need. But it seemed just the two fans on the front wasn't enough.

Getting this thing watercooled has been a very expensive and time consuming process. I don't think I regret it but, holy smokes. What a hobby.

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
wait, does ekwb's (closed) cpu aio come with an internal water sensor, or does it only go by external sensors like the cpu's?

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
Aios from what I know depend on you to manage the pump speed fan speed and rgb yourself. They don't often put that in the marketing material. They're just basically custom loop parts sealed together.

Nolgthorn fucked around with this message at 14:20 on Nov 22, 2022

kliras
Mar 27, 2021
yeah, looks like no coolant temp reading. that's kind of a bummer as an alternative to a d15 on a 5800X3D. puts the noise benchmarks into perspective

Nolgthorn
Jan 30, 2001

The pendulum of the mind alternates between sense and nonsense
I feel like a temperature sensor could be added to reservoirs easily and it would cost the manufacturer a few bucks. Probably same with aios, they could regulate their own speed for a premium call them "actual all in one".

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
The Aquacomputer D5 Next has a temp sensor built in and it's one of the reasons I switched to it.

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

SUCCHIAMI IL MIO CAZZO DA DIETRO, RANA RAGAZZO



2022 FIA Formula 1 WDC
Did a semi teardown of my rig last weekend to extricate my 3080 for eBay and at least make sure my new 7900 XTX works. I don't suppose anybody has any insight as to when EK are going to begin shipping their blocks? I ordered in November and haven't heard a peep.

I also have the terribly fun job of upgrading from a 3900X to a 5950X to maximise this dead gay platform's longevity, but of course my Strix X570 board means I have to remove the integrated heatshield to remove the monoblock to do that. It's bordering on full teardown territory at this point and wondering whether or not I have done the right thing rather than just eBaying everything and getting suckered into AM5.

a dmc delorean
Jul 2, 2006

Live the dream

Charles Leclerc posted:

Did a semi teardown of my rig last weekend to extricate my 3080 for eBay and at least make sure my new 7900 XTX works. I don't suppose anybody has any insight as to when EK are going to begin shipping their blocks? I ordered in November and haven't heard a peep.

I also have the terribly fun job of upgrading from a 3900X to a 5950X to maximise this dead gay platform's longevity, but of course my Strix X570 board means I have to remove the integrated heatshield to remove the monoblock to do that. It's bordering on full teardown territory at this point and wondering whether or not I have done the right thing rather than just eBaying everything and getting suckered into AM5.

The EK blocks are delayed until mid January iirc. They did send out an email to anyone that preordered. Maybe it got caught in your spam filter?

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

SUCCHIAMI IL MIO CAZZO DA DIETRO, RANA RAGAZZO



2022 FIA Formula 1 WDC

a dmc delorean posted:

The EK blocks are delayed until mid January iirc. They did send out an email to anyone that preordered. Maybe it got caught in your spam filter?

Ahh, I went through a local retailer as the shipping and tax from Estonia was aggressive to say the least (Thanks, Brexit-voting fucktards!)

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Charles Leclerc posted:

Ahh, I went through a local retailer as the shipping and tax from Estonia was aggressive to say the least (Thanks, Brexit-voting fucktards!)

Estonia? EKWB based out of Slovenia I thought.

I live in the colonies (Canada) and I'm so used to eating a massive duty/customs fee every time I buy something - don't worry you'll get used to it too :(

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

SUCCHIAMI IL MIO CAZZO DA DIETRO, RANA RAGAZZO



2022 FIA Formula 1 WDC

VelociBacon posted:

Estonia? EKWB based out of Slovenia I thought.

I live in the colonies (Canada) and I'm so used to eating a massive duty/customs fee every time I buy something - don't worry you'll get used to it too :(

My bad, it is Slovenia!

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Crosspost from the SFF thread:

Finished my build in the SSUPD Meshlicious a month ago. I got lucky and found a Gigabyte 3080 WaterForce on sale for about $950 back in January which was both the cheapest 3080 I could find at the time and saved me another $150 on having to buy a water block. On the downside not being able to get a FE card meant I had some additional space constraints due to the width of the card with the water ports on the long side.

The CPU is an i5-13600K on a Gigabyte B760i-D4 motherboard.



I had originally intended to use an EKWB 280mm rad, but after some cardboard templating I realized it wouldn't fit. It interferes with the front panel snap-fits by a few mm. Instead I went with an AlphaCool rad which is slightly shorter overall and allows it to clear. I also had to get slim fans to clear the GPU ports. On the upside, the GPU ports being where they are allowed me to very easily route the water flow from the motherboard side to the GPU side as a 30mm extender screwed into one of the back ports perfectly clears the case divider and two 90 degree adapters allowed me to get a good angle to hook up to the CPU block.

Fan speed is controlled by an AquaComputer Quadro based on water temp. The AquaComputer HighFlow meter reports both flow speed and temperature to the Quadro.

The pump is an Alphacool DC-LT2 with a solo top which is the smallest pump I could find that would reasonably fit in the case. I did consider the EK Quantum-Velocity CPU block and pump combo but the $300 price put me off.

There's no traditional reservoir in the system, instead the fill/bleed/expansion buffer is the piece of tubing going from a T-fitting on the GPU to a fill port at the top of the case. I designed and 3D printed a bracket that allowed me to fit a fill port at the top of the Meshlicious without needing to modify the top cover. Bleeding the system is still a pain in the rear end. There's a vent port at the top of the radiator, but it's awkwardly placed under a lip in the case and can't easily be used for filling.

Performance wise it runs okay. Water temperature maxes out at about 50C under stress test, with CPU and GPU hot spots around 75C with fans running at 80%. It runs a bit hot but still comfortably far from throttling and I'd say it's acceptable considering the constraints I was working under. Water flow is a bit low at 52L/m so I could probably improve cooling somewhat by getting a more powerful pump if I could find one that fits.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

50c coolant temp seems insanely high to me... Are you running a case temp probe? Temps that high I have to assume the case internal temps are way higher than you'd expect to see. I kinda doubt the coolant flow is the problem.

Theophany
Jul 22, 2014

SUCCHIAMI IL MIO CAZZO DA DIETRO, RANA RAGAZZO



2022 FIA Formula 1 WDC
50'c is where I would be getting worried about tubes malforming personally, but if it's only hitting that during power virus loads and closer to 40'c under normal use I wouldn't be too concerned overall given the space/radiator/fluid capacity constraints you're dealing with.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

The case is fully mesh so I assume most of the air entering the fans is drawn in through the side panels. I'll stick a thermometer inside the case and see if the inside air is noticably hotter than ambient. There's a little bit of space at the top of the case where I could stick another fan to draw hot air out if needed, I've seen plans on thingiverse for a bracket that balances a fan on the divider. :)

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Collateral Damage posted:

The case is fully mesh so I assume most of the air entering the fans is drawn in through the side panels. I'll stick a thermometer inside the case and see if the inside air is noticably hotter than ambient. There's a little bit of space at the top of the case where I could stick another fan to draw hot air out if needed, I've seen plans on thingiverse for a bracket that balances a fan on the divider. :)

With that all being true I guess this is just the limitation of those components being cooled by a single small rad with two thin fans.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Yeah I knew the rad/fan setup would probably be on the somewhat inadequate side going into this build. I don't mind it running hot as long as it doesn't thermal throttle, it's always a tradeoff when building in very small cases.

If I could find a FE card (or any other card with fittings on the short side) I'd have space for a thicker rad and fans, it's really just the width of the GPU block that's causing the limitation.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Collateral Damage posted:

Yeah I knew the rad/fan setup would probably be on the somewhat inadequate side going into this build. I don't mind it running hot as long as it doesn't thermal throttle, it's always a tradeoff when building in very small cases.

If I could find a FE card (or any other card with fittings on the short side) I'd have space for a thicker rad and fans, it's really just the width of the GPU block that's causing the limitation.

I think you're just going to have issues with one 280 or 240 radiator regardless of how thick you get it, those are high wattage draw components. I have a 3090 and a 9900k and to cool that properly I use two thick 420 rads. If it's working for you just enjoy it!

You might actually want to undervolt the gpu, would perform nearly the same and would remove a lot of energy input from the cooling system.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

I'll give it a try. Thanks!

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply