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Guinness posted:Wow that is super lovely. Guess my next BMW won't be an X-drive after all. The X1 was looking pretty sweet as a mini-utility until I found out that the 300hp 6 cylinder can only be had in an X-drive configuration.
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Nov 4, 2013 21:15
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I'd rather own an Evo and a ZHP/135 than a 3**xi anyway.
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Nov 4, 2013 23:43
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Das Volk posted:I'd rather own an Evo and a ZHP/135 than a 3**xi anyway. Yeah, I've driven some all wheel drive BMWs, and it's just not the same. BMWs are supposed to be rear drivers.
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Nov 4, 2013 23:45
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325ix was the best AWD car I've ever owned, it was just so loving tossable and easy to execute huge effortless snow powerslides. Subarus seemed to be a little more finicky to get sideways and hold it like that car. The iX basically just powered itself into a drift and held it. Of course it still had the jacked up suspension, even moreso than the newer models. But I never cared, you don't buy AWD BMWs to go fast in the dry. Of all the cars I've owned, that is the only one I truly regret selling.
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Nov 4, 2013 23:48
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Pilsner posted:I put some much-needed 8x17" Styling 42's on my E39. Unf. That looks fantastic. If I'd found that while looking for mine, it would have been hard to stick to my "has to be a manual".
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Nov 5, 2013 07:45
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IMO, they're the best E39 wheels, perhaps along the M5 ones.
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Crustashio posted:325ix was the best AWD car I've ever owned, it was just so loving tossable and easy to execute huge effortless snow powerslides. Subarus seemed to be a little more finicky to get sideways and hold it like that car. Subarus, as a line, tend to be biased towards understeer, even in the sporty models. AWD BMWs are heavily rear-biased, IIRC most can only send something like 25% power to the front axle. Also, you can do huge effortless powerslides in most RWD cars equipped with an LSD in the snow (or even in the dry!); you don't need AWD for that - in fact, AWD makes it harder to swing the tail out and keep it out, no matter the brand of car.
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Nov 5, 2013 09:39
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Viper_3000 posted:DISA is busted. Do I go with a $100 working part pulled from a car of unknown mileage or drop the $250 on a new one? Either way, I'll probably upgrade the internals with that GAS kit, but if I drop $250, it'll have to wait. I know I'm late to the party here, but this is what you need: http://germanautosolutions.com/bmw_solutions/disa_products/m54_m52tu/m54_disa_repair_kit/product_m54_disa_repair_kit.php Permanent fix vs. installing another flawed OEM part.
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Nov 5, 2013 17:36
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Stardotstar posted:I know I'm late to the party here, but this is what you need: Vacuum pot is shot on mine so the GAS kit wouldn't help my situation. I'll upgrade the new part as soon as my wallet recovers from dropping another $250 on something I wasn't planning on replacing.
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Nov 5, 2013 20:58
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HotCanadianChick posted:Just went to the BMW website and looked at the new 4 series and it appears to still be the case: To clarify, F30 Xdrive sport/m sport models don't come with the fixed sport suspension like RWD models, but CAN be ordered with the handling package that includes adaptive m suspension.
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Nov 5, 2013 22:08
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E46 touring, the rear wiper arm was broken off when I bought it. Now I've replaced the arm I find out it doesn't wash or wipe. There's no sound of the motor or pump trying to run. Where do I start?
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Nov 5, 2013 22:23
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Cakefool posted:E46 touring, the rear wiper arm was broken off when I bought it. Now I've replaced the arm I find out it doesn't wash or wipe. There's no sound of the motor or pump trying to run. Where do I start? Fuses first, I think there are two in the main panel. After that you'll need to check the harness, there's one that's larger going to the motor which should have constant power from the battery, if it doesn't then your wiring between the hatch and the main body of the car has probably come apart due to opening/closing of the hatch and father time. Past that you can check if the motor is seized by GENTLY trying to move the wiper. If it doesn't budge you're looking at a new spindle if you're lucky or motor if you're unlucky. Other places to look is if there's a relay somewhere in that operation, you'd want to check that, but I can't remember if there is or not. I'm not that familiar with the tourings, I just remember helping diagnose one for a friend. Most of the time it's the wiring between the hatch/car.
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Nov 6, 2013 00:13
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Dammit, my sunroof shade clip(s) broke today. Ugh. I wish I didn't need to take it apart to figure out which parts I need to fix.
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Nov 6, 2013 19:45
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Is there some stupid trick to separating the plug from the head lamp on an E30 because I'm pretty sure I'm going to break the plastic part of the plug. loving ridiculous amount of corrosion in there.
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Nov 6, 2013 19:46
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destructo posted:Dammit, my sunroof shade clip(s) broke today. Ugh. I wish I didn't need to take it apart to figure out which parts I need to fix. oh crap I forgot mine went too a few weeks ago. They were last done in 2008 so it's time. Meh! $67 for 4 tiny plastic clips. Meh. 
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Nov 6, 2013 20:03
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What are the symptoms of broken sunshade clips? Mine is kind of finicky but doesn't seem "broken", but I'm not the original owner so I don't have anything to compare it to.
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Nov 6, 2013 20:04
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You open the moonroof all the way (mostly by accident in my case since I never use the thing besides for venting) and then during closing it won't completely close and you notice the cover never returned and you hear a crackle. Then you can reach in and slide the cover back manually and get the glass to close too. Not a hard DIY. I think the sun fries the poo poo out of those fragile plastic clips.
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Nov 6, 2013 20:08
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Hmm, I think mine is fine then. My moonroof opens and closes just fine and the shade doesn't seem to get in the way. The shade doesn't slide very smoothly by hand, though, it kind of feels like it's not even on well-defined tracks. But I never close the sunshade, ever, so maybe my clips aren't getting baked in the sun? Honestly I'm tempted to just pull the shade out entirely and get that extra inch or two of glass exposed that the handle covers even when pulled back all the way.
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Nov 6, 2013 20:11
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First sign is the cover doesn't want to move very well. The tracks get full of crap too which doesn't help so I just clean them and pull out any stray plastic bit, then re-lube with some white lithium grease it's just a couple torx 20's or something then you pop the glass up from the inside and onto a towel on your roof and then attack from the top.
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Nov 6, 2013 20:18
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rscott posted:Is there some stupid trick to separating the plug from the head lamp on an E30 because I'm pretty sure I'm going to break the plastic part of the plug. loving ridiculous amount of corrosion in there. They should come apart easily. Yours may have fused with the plastic. I had that happen on my car, it broke the bulb off in the connector. I then heated the spade up with a soldering iron and pulled it out, as it had melted itself into the connector.
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Nov 6, 2013 20:27
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I sprayed a bunch of WD40 in there, maybe it soaking for a few hours will loosen poo poo up
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Nov 6, 2013 20:32
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rscott posted:I sprayed a bunch of WD40 in there, maybe it soaking for a few hours will loosen poo poo up Pull the headlight assembly out the front and see if you can see if the connector has melted.
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Nov 6, 2013 20:52
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It doesn't look like anything has melted, the spades are just super rusty and it looks like they've fused together. e: A couple hours of soaking with WD40 and I got them off rscott fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Nov 6, 2013 |
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Nov 6, 2013 21:10
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So it looks like I have a fun 1700 mile drive from Northern California to Texas for Thanksgiving this year. Am I crazy for wanting to take my 328i there and back again? 10/06 E90 N52 ULEV, 68K miles and had full maintenance done when I bought it from dealer back in late August, if any of that makes a difference.
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Nov 7, 2013 03:30
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ibntumart posted:So it looks like I have a fun 1700 mile drive from Northern California to Texas for Thanksgiving this year. Am I crazy for wanting to take my 328i there and back again? Do it! I put 3k miles on my E82 in the first week of owning it, and I've done a few 2k mile trips in my E92 this year!
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Nov 7, 2013 03:36
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Do it! I've been averaging 20k/year since I bought my first E90 in '08. It should get decent mileage on the highway, it'll be comfortable, and most likely fun. Even with that much driving, I still enjoy getting in my car each day. 
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Nov 7, 2013 03:47
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These are precisely the answers I was hoping to hear! Thanks.Alarbus posted:Even with that much driving, I still enjoy getting in my car each day. Me, too! I still look for excuses to take the long road or run an extra errand just so I can drive it a bit longer (especially if it means highway time and shifting into DS).
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Nov 7, 2013 03:55
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Advice needed! My coworker is wanting to sell her 2009 135i and I'm seriously thinking of buying it off her. It's only done 40,000km, decent price and been well looked after. However, while I know the 135i is rated highly I've been reading some troubling things about the N54 engine in regards to fuel pumps failures. Does anyone know whether it was a US-market only issue? (I'm in Australia.) Would it be serious enough to dissuade anyone buying a 135i?
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Nov 7, 2013 04:57
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jediguy posted:Advice needed! My coworker is wanting to sell her 2009 135i and I'm seriously thinking of buying it off her. It's only done 40,000km, decent price and been well looked after. However, while I know the 135i is rated highly I've been reading some troubling things about the N54 engine in regards to fuel pumps failures. Does anyone know whether it was a US-market only issue? (I'm in Australia.) Would it be serious enough to dissuade anyone buying a 135i? Get the vin and call the dealer, if Australia has the same recall as the US make sure the High Pressure Fuel Pump recall was done. The old ones were failing either due to lovely build quality or lack of fuel pressure when they first started. Most of the problems were with the 06-07 build date cars. I have a '10 135i and after having the software update which causes the low pressure pump to build pressure as soon as you unlock the car I haven't had any issues in ~40k miles. My car has also been making 430 whp for about 30k of those miles and my HPFP has never been replaced. The only problem I've had with mine is the 3rd brake light cracking which was replaced under warranty.
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Nov 7, 2013 05:52
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ibntumart posted:So it looks like I have a fun 1700 mile drive from Northern California to Texas for Thanksgiving this year. Am I crazy for wanting to take my 328i there and back again? I drove my 1992 200k mile E36 from Kentucky to Nevada and back, pulling an overloaded Uhaul on the return trip. the car performed flawlessly. BMW's do great on long trips.
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Nov 7, 2013 13:56
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There's a 98 540i/6 Sport with 130k miles for 5k near me. Should I hold out for a newer one with less miles or is it worth my time? It looks to be well taken care of.
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Nov 7, 2013 14:48
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Just make sure your GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM is in order before embarking on your journey.
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Nov 7, 2013 15:26
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130k on a M62 may need CCV and valve cover gaskets? Still super low mileage though. Do eeetttttt
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Nov 7, 2013 21:32
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Driver of a 175k '97 here (bought @ 165). Valve cover gaskets WILL be gone. Just means oily engine, no big deal, doable on a Saturday. Power steering lines will be leaky. If you're very unlucky, valley pan gasket will be going - that's not really a roadside fix but a weekend and some patience sorts it. The cooling system looked perfect on mine, I drove it 500 miles (like, sign paperwork, get keys, get on interstate) home, but then 4 days later I blew the top neck off the radiator during a pull. Just plan on replacing the cooling system. Seriously. Oh also check the power steering pump bolts, mine backed out after ~10k and I got stranded. Just blue Loctite them. Ummm, what else....shimmies at 40(and 80 and 120) mean that your thrust arm bushings are out on the front - R&R seems to be a mild pain but nothing an AIer can't handle. Beware that I think VANOS showed up in '98. I specifically grabbed a '97 because I will happily trade 20 ft-lb and 200 rpm on the torque peak for the fact that VANOS can not break on my car. Jonny 290 fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 22:01
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Right now i'm feeling stupidly lucky my beaten and battered 540 has been pretty much problem free.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:09
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Jonny 290 posted:Beware that I think VANOS showed up in '98. I specifically grabbed a '97 because I will happily trade 20 ft-lb and 200 rpm on the torque peak for the fact that VANOS can not break on my car. Just FYI - M62's don't have the VANOS issues like the M5x's. The other things to keep in mind - Timing chain tensioner - These are known to fail as the age gets on them. Its super easy fix and well documented. The CCV will throw a check engine light, and its doable, just fiddly. Also if the alternator dies, be prepared to poo poo yourself. 400 for a reman. But if know a good alternator rebuild shop, have them repair it for about 1/4 the price.
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Nov 7, 2013 22:13
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Just FYI - M62's don't have the VANOS issues like the M5x's. http://dallas.en.craigslist.org/dal/cto/4166714009.html
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Nov 7, 2013 22:48
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crutt posted:Does the price seem reasonable? With out knowing how the test drive went, and assuming it went ok, I would take a bet that 5000 seams reasonable. Though I absolutely loving hate aftermarket headlamps to get the halo lamps. To me that just screams "I am cheap" and a car that hasn't been looked after. If you are going to do it, get some real OEM head lamps. Edit: enjoy the black interior.... it sucks so much in the summer. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Nov 7, 2013 |
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Nov 7, 2013 23:06
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Hey, my wheels! I would say that is a solid bet, it's virtually just what I bought, with a few less miles and black instead of tan interior. Come be V8 bros with me. Edit: oh yeah, de-halo. Clean pre-facelift is a point of pride for me.
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Nov 7, 2013 23:07
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Powershift posted:Right now i'm feeling stupidly lucky my beaten and battered 540 has been pretty much problem free. Shhh be quiet or Gunter the Breakdown Fairy will pay you a visit.
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Nov 7, 2013 23:27
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Jonny 290 posted:Hey, my wheels! I would say that is a solid bet, it's virtually just what I bought, with a few less miles and black instead of tan interior. Come be V8 bros with me. Edit: oh yeah, de-halo. Clean pre-facelift is a point of pride for me. Yeah the lights are terrible. Thanks for the info guys. Also this won't be a daily driver as much as a "i don't want to drive my giant base model diesel truck today car"
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Nov 7, 2013 23:35
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