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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Finally got this done last week but the weathers been kinda lovely since then so final photos had to wait till today. This has been one of my longer builds becuase first the colour matched paint was out of stock in Australia, then I bought different paint for an alternate scheme but the decals got delayed in Spain thanks to Coivd restrictions. A little later the correct paint came into stock so it was back as a going project in the original scheme that I wanted to do. Looks good, dude. Is this the one that you were going to do the Wynn's livery on? I'm still eager to see that laid down on something.
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Feb 27, 2021 18:20
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And the Star Wars line is in 1/144. I've got a stack of 1/144 airplane kits that vary wildly in quality. I'm planning an effortpost to cover the gamut.
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Feb 27, 2021 21:39
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mllaneza posted:And Space Botes ! Are they normally painted like that in Yamato, or were you shooting for a Chris Foss/Homeworld vibe?
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Feb 27, 2021 23:17
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They're very high quality snap-tight models, plenty of detail, and quick to paint. Great for a gift to a newcomer or as a palate cleanser.
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Looks good, dude. Is this the one that you were going to do the Wynn's livery on? I'm still eager to see that laid down on something. Yeah it is but the original intention was this scheme as I’ve watched this car race out at Bathurst during the 12hr race. I’ll soon have decals and paint so I can source another kit and do it in the wynns livery
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Feb 27, 2021 23:23
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Cthulu Carl posted:So I can't find 'em on HLJ, but I've ordered them off Amazon in the past. Instead of being called Mecha Colle, they're a line called Vehicle Model but are the same design as the Micha Colle ones - palm-sized model, instructions on the bottom of the lid.
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Feb 27, 2021 23:47
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Phy posted:Are they normally painted like that in Yamato, or were you shooting for a Chris Foss/Homeworld vibe? That's the paint job in the first season https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sSrYskeie-s If Star Wars is WW2 dogfights in space, Space Battleship Yamato is, as one would presume from the title, WW2 naval battles.
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Feb 28, 2021 00:07
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Oh cool! I've never seen Yamato other than a few clips of the Wave Motion gun, so the paint scheme really reminds me of the default colours for the Taiidan faction in the first Homeworld
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Feb 28, 2021 00:40
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Cthulu Carl posted:That's the paint job in the first season Yeah, it's the standard paint scheme for that ship. That said, Chris Foss is never far from my heart when I'm painting spaceships. And I can definitely see the Taiidan resemblance, it's just that Yamato got there first.
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Feb 28, 2021 02:24
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Alright FINE, I will watch Space Battleship Yamato and end up buying loads of ships 
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Feb 28, 2021 04:05
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I am building a Tamiya Lotus Super 7 and it comes with seatbelts. I've never done seatbelts before so I'm a little confused how it works since all the instructions say is "cut them out". They appear to be the same or similar to water slide decal material except they are on a thicker backing. I'm pretty sure I don't take them off the backing though, I think that gives them a little bit of thickness. But maybe I'm wrong and I need to remove them from the backing? I'm also pretty sure I don't put them in water. I do have to fold them over the seats though so maybe I do wet them? Help lol
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Feb 28, 2021 04:08
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Charliegrs posted:I am building a Tamiya Lotus Super 7 and it comes with seatbelts. I've never done seatbelts before so I'm a little confused how it works since all the instructions say is "cut them out". They appear to be the same or similar to water slide decal material except they are on a thicker backing. I'm pretty sure I don't take them off the backing though, I think that gives them a little bit of thickness. But maybe I'm wrong and I need to remove them from the backing? I'm also pretty sure I don't put them in water. I do have to fold them over the seats though so maybe I do wet them? Help lol They're stickers so it's fine to cut them out and then add your hardware onto them before sticking them to the seat prior to assembly. They don't need any water added to them and I've used them a couple of times in the past on different builds. I should have some pics up later but I'm building the same kit and decided to make life hard for myself by deciding to add a stripe down the centre of the car and the lower sections of the body work being done in polished aluminium paint.
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Feb 28, 2021 04:25
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Arquinsiel posted:Alright FINE, I will watch Space Battleship Yamato and end up buying loads of ships The plot is kinda dumb (Especially the second season), and has creepy fan service (e.g. the women's uniforms), but my GOD, those ship and plane designs... ...And I will never not love the noise Yamato's rounds make when they hit targets. On the topic of Yamato, I'm joining in on the ship trend in the thread now.  This is the 1:3000 Yamato from a Kure Naval Port diorama kit. It also includes the battleships Musashi, Haruna, and Hyuga (It's after the conversion to a hybrid aircraft carrier, so the directions call it AIR BATTLESHIP HYUGA), the cruisers Aoba and Tone, and the carriers Ryuho, Unryu, and Amagi. I built Yamato this afternoon, lost and found the radar/fire controlat the top of the pagoda three times, then proceeded to lose the back antennas twice, break the antenna section off, then lose the mast piece, so I had to use the part from Musashi and hope I can jury-rig a fix for when I build the other ship...
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Feb 28, 2021 05:03
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Cthulu Carl posted:This is the 1:3000 I think you are crazier than I am.
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Feb 28, 2021 09:26
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Cthulu Carl posted:The plot is kinda dumb (Especially the second season), and has creepy fan service (e.g. the women's uniforms), but my GOD, those ship and plane designs... Space Battleship Yamato 2199 is dumb, but dumb in a fantastically earnest way and well worth a watch. It knows it's a remake of a 70's series and just loving owns it with the sound design and art style rather than trying to fully modernize everything. The battles are all "tactical naval battles, but space" and just wonderfully in some of their analogues like a submarines that dives "underwater" into an alternate dimension  . I absolutely love this series.SBY2202, however... is just flat bad. It's got a different director and writer, and they are just straight-up terrible at building off the first season. The worst part is (spoilers for 2199) it's all built off flanderizing the 2199's ending promise of "don't be as bad as we were with Wave Motion Technology" into "Don't use Wave Motion Guns ever". The battles are also pretty generic, with none of the well-choreographed tactical action the first series was so good at, and the writing goes downhill pretty steeply by the end.
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Feb 28, 2021 10:10
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Here's where I'm up to on my Tamiya lotus 7 super. I decided I wanted to do a bit of a hybrid build that's not quite a straight roadcar and also isn't a full clubman racer but instead something you might take along to a multi day road stage rally like we have here with the targa tasmania. It was my first time trying out alclad paints which is what I used for the lower bodywork but in a rush to get the painting on the body done before dinner needed putting on I didn't let the paint dry long enough before masking so it's mared the paint surface. I'll either remask and do another coat or hope it comes good when the clear coat goes on. The layer of dark green on the nose should be hidden by decals when I get to them so I'm not too worried about it tbh.   
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Feb 28, 2021 10:31
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The Locator posted:I think you are crazier than I am. Each ship is only like 10-15 parts, and on Yamato, one of those parts is the entire hull and five are the gun turrets. I feel like the real challenge is going to be painting the naval base proper.
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Feb 28, 2021 18:56
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That set looks like a great way to get into naval wargaming. Pretty cheap and you get a decent chunk of a 1/3000 scale fleet.
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Feb 28, 2021 20:14
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Man, I just started on the RFM Panzer IV Ausf J with full interior. It's the first RFM kit I've ever built and I gotta say it's going together really well. The engine was a small kit unto itself, but it fit together beautifully.
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Feb 28, 2021 20:30
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Gewehr 43 posted:Man, I just started on the RFM Panzer IV Ausf J with full interior. It's the first RFM kit I've ever built and I gotta say it's going together really well. The engine was a small kit unto itself, but it fit together beautifully. High five full interior PzIV Ausf J buddy. I just sealed up the hull of my Trumpeter kit. The interior detail is really optimized to only show what you can see through the hatches, which is nice since this kit has too many parts as it is.
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Feb 28, 2021 22:34
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Gewehr 43 posted:Eh, just about any kit marketed with a "full interior" is going to be pretty crowded. That said, they can be really rewarding kits. I personally really liked the AFV Club T-34/85 that I did a couple years ago. It's challenging, but not overly fiddly nor expensive. The T-34 isn't an overly-complex beast either, so the full interior components of the kit are similarly uncomplex. This was the kit I used, but it looks like it's out of stock most places. Decided to do the AFV Club T-34/85 and I’m pretty happy with it. It has some annoying small flash and the box might have been knocked around because there ware some damaged parts on the sprue, but were easily fixable. I’m just finishing exterior details before I prime it and mask off parts of the road wheels 
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Mar 3, 2021 11:22
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Space Jam posted:Decided to do the AFV Club T-34/85 and I’m pretty happy with it. It has some annoying small flash and the box might have been knocked around because there ware some damaged parts on the sprue, but were easily fixable. I’m just finishing exterior details before I prime it and mask off parts of the road wheels
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Mar 3, 2021 15:23
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    Arma Hobby 1/72 Hurricane Mk II. This one was a journey. The kit itself is actually really nice. The detail is uncannily crisp, and fitment is almost perfect. If they didn't put the gates along some of the leading wing edges, it would have gone together with seriously no sanding or filling. I'm looking forward to building their Wildcat, and the eventual 1/48 Mustang they're putting out some time later this year. I deeply regret picking this color scheme. The color section of the instruction manual's very sharp, and ultimately looks a lot nicer than the actual results. Green on grey on black is really boring, as it turns out. This is the first model I've done that used mottled camouflage or had fabric control surfaces, and for a first attempt I think those came out okay. As I got closer and closer to finishing, I was convinced I'd ruined this thing. It was just this ugly lump, and it wasn't until I was peeling the masking off the canopy that it really came to life for me. At least now I'm just the usual level of aggrieved that I missed a seam line/cat hair/etc.
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Mar 4, 2021 02:22
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Seriously nice detail for a 1/72 plane kit.
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Mar 4, 2021 03:16
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Big tank part 2       Part 2 involved the top hull and engine compartment cooling fan and radiator. Most of the effort was spent on the radio set, since it involves a lot of PE and decals. The effort is hardly worth it since you can see almost nothing from the hatch. At least I took good pictures before I sealed it. This part had a very puzzling part: the driver's vision port. It's given in transparent plastic, but there's an opaque piece behind it, meaning that all you can do is paint the back with some gloss paint and hope that it just looks like a very dim picture. I'm also stick with a realization that if I glue the engine cooling fans in an open position, I would not be able to put on the turret due to the very wide spaced armour. I'll leave it unglued for now, since with some filing the unit snaps in tightly, but I can still removed it if I change my mind.
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Mar 4, 2021 05:20
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Ensign Expendable posted:Big tank part 2 What brand/color is that?
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Mar 4, 2021 22:16
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Ensign Expendable posted:Big tank part 2 I wondered if you were doing the 1/16th kit. Looking great so far. It's a bit early to tell in my 1/35th build, but if possible, I would like to leave the top armor unglued so that I can take it off and view the internals. I was able to do that with the AFV Club T-34 because the fit was so good. This RFM kit is going together really well, so I'm hoping it'll work here too.
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Mar 4, 2021 22:22
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Sash! posted:What brand/color is that? Vallejo 73.605 German red brown RAL8012 primer.
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Mar 4, 2021 23:43
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Symetrique posted:another WIP of the 1/72 Fokker D.VII: This is so tight. I love bizarre camo / paint schemes so aesthetically this is great to look at. You are really showing off some great skills in pulling this together.
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Mar 11, 2021 12:55
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mllaneza posted:And the Star Wars line is in 1/144. I've got a stack of 1/144 airplane kits that vary wildly in quality. I'm planning an effortpost to cover the gamut. Combine them: build a P-38 with Y-wing nacelles.
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Mar 11, 2021 18:16
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I paint my car models almost exclusively with Tamiya Spray cans. However, I kind of want to try doing an all acrylic build since I have tons of jars of Tamiya acrylics in various colors and I might as well use them through the airbrush. I've never done it before so I'm wondering if acrylics are even any good to use on the body of a car? I'm also wondering how well Tamiya acrylic clear works as a clearcoat for a car because being acrylic its probably really soft and I'm not sure how well it would take to sanding and polishing?
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Mar 11, 2021 18:47
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Charliegrs posted:I paint my car models almost exclusively with Tamiya Spray cans. However, I kind of want to try doing an all acrylic build since I have tons of jars of Tamiya acrylics in various colors and I might as well use them through the airbrush. I've never done it before so I'm wondering if acrylics are even any good to use on the body of a car? I'm also wondering how well Tamiya acrylic clear works as a clearcoat for a car because being acrylic its probably really soft and I'm not sure how well it would take to sanding and polishing? The normal acrylics work fine on car bodies tbh although I’ve always used leveling thinner which might make a bit of a difference. As for the clear while it is an acrylic it seems to dry hard enough to take a polish as long as you are careful around panel edges it should work alright in the end.
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Mar 11, 2021 20:17
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:The normal acrylics work fine on car bodies tbh although I’ve always used leveling thinner which might make a bit of a difference. As for the clear while it is an acrylic it seems to dry hard enough to take a polish as long as you are careful around panel edges it should work alright in the end. Oh yeah I was thinking of using some leveling thinner as well. Do you have any kind of recommendation on ratio for paint/thinner/leveler?
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Mar 11, 2021 21:01
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FiskTireBoy posted:Oh yeah I was thinking of using some leveling thinner as well. Do you have any kind of recommendation on ratio for paint/thinner/leveler? I normally aim for around 60:40 paint to thinner which is the mr hobby leveling stuff. Only real downside I’ve noticed with the gloss colors is it knocks back the shine a little but that won’t be a problem if you’re clear coating it anyways.
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Mar 11, 2021 22:03
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FiskTireBoy posted:Oh yeah I was thinking of using some leveling thinner as well. Do you have any kind of recommendation on ratio for paint/thinner/leveler? Tamiya recommends 2:1 paint to thinner and that's the ratio I use with 70% alcohol as thinner. I should probably use something with a flow improver but I've had good luck so far as long as the paint isn't already super old and gloppy. I've sprayed a couple bodies with the acrylic jars and they've both turned out pretty nice. I plan on doing another one but my jar of the color I picked doesn't want to spray really well. Need to pick up some more.
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Mar 12, 2021 00:23
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:I normally aim for around 60:40 paint to thinner which is the mr hobby leveling stuff. Only real downside I’ve noticed with the gloss colors is it knocks back the shine a little but that won’t be a problem if you’re clear coating it anyways. You can get a very glossy finish with mr levelling thinner if you bump that ratio up even higher. As long as your psi is set properly and you dont flood the model with paint, going as low as 1:4 paint/thinner will give you a much better gloss finish. You can follow the final layer with a quick misting of pure leveling thinner for even more shine.
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Mar 12, 2021 00:49
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Combine them: build a P-38 with Y-wing nacelles. That sounds like something Naboo would field...
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Mar 12, 2021 00:54
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a blower nozzle for a compressor so I can use it to clean keyboards and the like? It's just your big standard compressor with quick adapter on it.
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Mar 12, 2021 05:12
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Just get one at Home Depot or wherever, don’t overthink it. Do be aware that unless you have a drier system installed, compressed air often has quite a bit of (occasionally dirty) moisture in it.
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Mar 12, 2021 05:31
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Yeah it's got a moisture trap on it,. I'll go hunting for something. There's plenty of 1/4 bsp ones around and I'll just convert it if need be.
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Mar 12, 2021 06:12
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Does anyone have any recommendations or tips on glue application for photo etch parts? I'm a gunpla guy mostly and picked up a photo etch sheet for one of my kits. Ordered some glue applicator syringes online but the tips were too wide - and I've read online that a narrower tip means you need a thinner glue?
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Mar 12, 2021 16:18
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