|
Hypnolobster posted:Print a 20mm cube or something similar, with no infill or top, 1 or 2 walls. Measure with calipers and see how close to the slicer-set extrusion width you are (or double, if you did two walls). Ok so slowing print speed down has definitely helped with quality. I seem to be observing that having dropped to 40mm/sec, dropping the print speed 5mm further resulted in a poorer print, which looked much like the one printed at 80mm/sec when it comes to little imperfections in the outer walls. Is this a thing one expects to see when going too slow?
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 03:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 16:01 |
|
|
asterioth posted:I think I'll hold off on the mainboard and the extruder for now. Are new bedsprings as important as some people seem to think they are? I think the main thing is that if the springs are in higher tension they seem to stay put better and the yellow painted replacement springs that are recommended are just stronger by default. I have a glass bed on so I cranked mine down a lot and it can go months between bed leveling with the stock springs. I printed out some spring tension cups for my Maker Select that try to keep the ends of the springs off direct contact with the bottom of the bed which may have helped. I do have to re-level it a bit more than my Ender 3 but the bed is not as nice to begin with so there may be other factors.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 03:09
|
|
|
Here4DaGangBang posted:Ok so slowing print speed down has definitely helped with quality. I seem to be observing that having dropped to 40mm/sec, dropping the print speed 5mm further resulted in a poorer print, which looked much like the one printed at 80mm/sec when it comes to little imperfections in the outer walls. Is this a thing one expects to see when going too slow? Slower speeds can leave the nozzle in one place too long and create some weird blobbing and stuff, but 35mm/s isn't insanely slow. That said, if you're setting one thing for speed, it might be an overall setting that's changing wall/infill/first layer/etc speeds in hidden or advanced settings. But also, PETG is a jerk, so keep that in mind. asterioth posted:I think I'll hold off on the mainboard and the extruder for now. Are new bedsprings as important as some people seem to think they are?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 03:10
|
|
|
poo poo. I was getting a bad print, it was like it was having trouble starting again after a retraction. My settings were the same as ever, I've had some great prints with those settings, so I was dubious that was the problem. Just watched it go for a while, struggling to lay down a first layer. And then I watched in horror as a fully liquid drop of plastic oozed down onto the bed from the TOP of the nozzle. The nozzle or hotend or heat break or some piece in there had gotten loose at some point in my fiddling, and plastic was extruding from above the nozzle threads. So that's all nice and glued in there with plastic, getting it out will be a bitch because it'll have to be hot when I operate, and will I even really be able to get the plastic out of the threads entirely? Is it just time for me to upgrade to an SE300 and avoid dealing with this? e: Booo, it was coming out all the way at the top. 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jan 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 03:13
|
|
|
Oof. The good news is that e3d blocks, nozzles and heatbreaks are ludicrously cheap. Next time make sure you bring the hotend up to PLA temp and tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak while it's hot. You don't have to crank it, but the block will expand when hot and push them apart and leak plastic everywhere if you don't.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 03:55
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:This is way more than I spent to get going including buying filament. I got a Creality CR-10S 300x300x400 knockoff. I'd suggest getting the real thing this ones kinda janky, though it works well. Its just knockoffs of a knockoff all the way down.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 03:59
|
|
|
Oh hey, MyMiniFactory either has Mars Pros in stock or will have them in stock tomorrow in the US, for people who are still after those and having trouble with Amazon. Same price too.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 04:05
|
|
|
Dr. Fishopolis posted:Oof. The good news is that e3d blocks, nozzles and heatbreaks are ludicrously cheap. Ohhhhhh poo poo, now I remember that step from the original build. Ha.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 04:08
|
|
|
So the Prusa SL1 is overpriced for what it is, right -- especially given that things like the Mars Pro (and Epax X1) exist?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 04:15
|
|
|
Hubis posted:So the Prusa SL1 is overpriced for what it is, right -- especially given that things like the Mars Pro (and Epax X1) exist? Tilting vat is a big and expensive upgrade, but functionally is like an Ender versus a MK3S. Better across the board even if only incrementally but at a cost.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 04:43
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Ohhhhhh poo poo, now I remember that step from the original build. Ha. I managed to do the same thing last month when putting a new nozzle on my maker select. I caught it before there was too much plastic on the heater block and managed to get most of it off but it helped to use a heatgun to get the bulk off, then scrape the heat block, and run a tap through the M7 threaded hole where the nozzle meets the tube, and I replaced the nozzle and cleared out the tube as best as I could with a 1.75mm drill bit (it's actually a bit larger inside so I'm doing some printing in CF nylon to abrade the rest out). I managed to break one of my heat cartridge wires doing all this manipulating of the heater block and put on a new one the other day. It's one of those things that can be easy to recover from unless you have some bad luck with how much stuff the plastic blob gets involved with. Looking back at the time it took, it was worth it to me, but it's been a few hours of fiddling around since I had to re-tune the PID for the new cartridge and clean a lot of stuff off, plus the maker select regular version required crimping or soldering on the cartridge wires since putting on a connector would've cost a few cents more than the crimps they used originally. I soldered it but if I ever have to do it again I'm gonna crimp some kind of appropriate connector on there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 04:45
|
|
|
asterioth posted:Yeah, someone was saying to get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SY745CF?pldnSite=1 for the extruder If I'm looking at that right the dual gears just pinch the filament on smooth sides with the gears working together underneath? The stock extruder and aluminum replacement I have grip the filament with the teeth on one side and a smooth bearing on the other side. To which I just had the teeth get clogged up and stop feeding about 2 hours into a print. I take it the dual gear one doesn't have that problem?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 05:27
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:If I'm looking at that right the dual gears just pinch the filament on smooth sides with the gears working together underneath? Yeah, the dual gear extruders usually have two advantages, the toothed track on both gears for the filament is actually partially rounded so it gets more grip on both sides of the filament, and the mechanical advantage of driving both gears (with the shaft of the stepper on one and the lower geared teeth meshed to that on the other). I have something similar on my ender 3, which is a knockoff of the bondtech mini bmg ($80), but knocked off the open source design by trianglelabs ($21): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33029933418.html https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/bmg-extruder/ Mine works great (after adjusting steps per mm to 141), but if I had to do it again I'd consider the one you're looking at being you can see into it, and the mechanism seems to be about the same.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 05:48
|
|
|
So I rolled the dice. Very first thing I printed was the dog on the supplied MicroSD card. Perfect. I feel like I may have used up a lot of future luck. I did spend about a half hour on getting the bed as flat as I could. Also preheated everything. But still, pure luck. I'm sure glad that I read somewhere to flatten the base because it's not square. I think it may have been assembled blindly in a ship in a storm. Can't build Cura because of segfaults in gfortran. Fuuuck this. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Jan 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 07:13
|
|
|
Hubis posted:So the Prusa SL1 is overpriced for what it is, right -- especially given that things like the Mars Pro (and Epax X1) exist? Just my opinion, but the jump from something like a Photon or Mars to an SL1 isn't going to have nearly same the cost/benefit ratio as going from a cheap FDM machine to a Mk3. I'd bet real cash that you wouldn't be able to look at a print and know which machine it came out of. I've never once looked at anything that's come off my Photon and thought "Boy, I wish I'd spent the extra $1300 to get the tilt/peel mechanism." Right now in US dollars, you could buy six or seven non-pro Mars machines for the cost of a single SL1 and have a turnkey print farm.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 13:22
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Just my opinion, but the jump from something like a Photon or Mars to an SL1 isn't going to have nearly same the cost/benefit ratio as going from a cheap FDM machine to a Mk3. I'd bet real cash that you wouldn't be able to look at a print and know which machine it came out of. I've never once looked at anything that's come off my Photon and thought "Boy, I wish I'd spent the extra $1300 to get the tilt/peel mechanism." Right now in US dollars, you could buy six or seven non-pro Mars machines for the cost of a single SL1 and have a turnkey print farm. New resin vats and other consumables for the printer are also crazy expensive. https://youtu.be/s7HXQ6BCZT4
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 14:31
|
|
|
Finally trying Stealthchop on my TMC2209s. Holy poo poo, that's silent. I used to keep running all TMCs I had in default Spreadcycle mode, because it was already way more silent than the A4988s, and most of the noise being resonances in these huge polycarb panels on my printer (even with interpolation enabled). But Stealthchop got rid of the resonances and then some.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 14:42
|
|
|
Combat Pretzel posted:Finally trying Stealthchop on my TMC2209s. Holy poo poo, that's silent. yeah, it rules. I've moved up to those nema17 precision planetary combos from StepperOnline and even though I already had 2 of the 20:1 in my macro rig I (AGAIN) got fooled by a 50:1 because my controller was still set to the steps/mm of a naked stepper motor, so it was spinning at like 10rpm which equates to ~ZERO motion at the output shaft. Luckily I noticed the motor shaft on the back end of the stepper was actually spinning so crisis averted https://i.imgur.com/yuvIL7u.mp4 The precision planetary motors are no joke. I skipped the normal planetary kind they sell since the prices for the precision ones are pretty good. Different mounting pattern than the normal nema17, had to drill out some mounting plates. Not very back-driveable though I am able to hand-spin the 20:1 with a bit of leverage. I got the 50:1 to budge a bit then the belt started skipping bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 15:16 on Jan 31, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 15:14
|
|
|
Hypnolobster posted:Slower speeds can leave the nozzle in one place too long and create some weird blobbing and stuff, but 35mm/s isn't insanely slow. That said, if you're setting one thing for speed, it might be an overall setting that's changing wall/infill/first layer/etc speeds in hidden or advanced settings. That seems fairly plausible, I switched back to 40mm/sec and everything was cleaner again so that seems to be the sweet spot. I did an extrusion calibration cube and while my calipers aren’t the most precision engineered examples around, I did the measurements and calculations twice and the average of the results is 0.895, so it would seem the 90% multiplier I had applied was pretty spot on. Printed a decent benchy and factoring in the whole PETG is a jerk thing, I’m fairly happy with it. I’ll probably only ever make ugly, functional things with PETG.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 16:11
|
|
|
What?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 16:36
|
|
|
motion controlled macro lens camera rig from the looks of it and a drat fine one at that
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 16:46
|
|
|
Mars pro has been ordered! New to resin printing, but I’ve also bought the parts for a curing station, a couple bottles of resin, a silicone funnel, and a uhh pickle basket for washing. I’ve got nitrile gloves out the rear end Anything else I want to purchase up front?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 16:49
|
|
|
A better glove holder than your rear end?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 16:51
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:A better glove holder than your rear end? What are you, the cops?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 17:03
|
|
|
Sockser posted:Mars pro has been ordered! Where’d you end up finding one in stock? MMF and Amazon both still show out of stock for the US
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 17:32
|
|
|
Amazon had 14 left in stock when I checked on a whim.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 17:33
|
|
|
Dang, guess I must have just missed them 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 17:49
|
|
|
Monoprice has a fully-enclosed "babby's first 3d printer" for sale today for $200 that is normally $600. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30525
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 17:52
|
|
|
Sockser posted:Mars pro has been ordered! Isopropyl Alcohol (assuming you didn’t get water-washable resin) I use 2 wash basins/pickle baskets, one for right off the printer and then a second cleaner wash, along with 2 soft bristle toothbrushes for scrubbing prints after each bath. I got a cheap disposable aluminum sheet pan just to set the printer on and for cleaning/support removal, helps keep trimmings and any spills/drips contained.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 17:55
|
|
|
I don't think the SL1 has been out in the wild long enough to characterize its most valuable feature -- the most valuable part of all Prusas -- which is reliability. We have a couple of Form2s and I would say they have about a 98% success rate. Assuming you don't do something stupid like forget to turn on supports, 49 times out of 50 you just upload the file and press go and walk away. In contrast, you can go back through this thread and read the posts from Mars and photon owners and get a sense of the software, hardware, and process problems you'll have to deal with to get them printing well. They aren't insurmountable, clearly, but they are problems. I expect the SL1 will fall somewhere in the middle, and if you are planning on using the machine regularly or constantly the additional cost up front will pay for itself in reliability. If you only plan to print one D&D figure a week and you don't mind hacking around, then sure, the cheaper ones are fine. At least they aren't going to burn down your house. (Just poison you with fumes)
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 18:01
|
|
|
Bodanarko posted:Isopropyl Alcohol (assuming you didn’t get water-washable resin) Running two FDM printers currently, so I’ve got loads of IPA. Second pickle bucket is a good call. Maybe I should print up something nicer. The aluminum pan is also maybe a smart call. I’m planning on building floor cabinets in my craft room to house all my printers, and I imagine any resin drips in that cabinet would get nasty fast.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 18:32
|
|
|
Those of you with raspberry pi's hooked up to your ender's where did you mount/place it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 18:36
|
|
|
Hubis posted:So the Prusa SL1 is overpriced for what it is, right -- especially given that things like the Mars Pro (and Epax X1) exist? Acid Reflux posted:Just my opinion, but the jump from something like a Photon or Mars to an SL1 isn't going to have nearly same the cost/benefit ratio as going from a cheap FDM machine to a Mk3. I'd bet real cash that you wouldn't be able to look at a print and know which machine it came out of. I've never once looked at anything that's come off my Photon and thought "Boy, I wish I'd spent the extra $1300 to get the tilt/peel mechanism." Right now in US dollars, you could buy six or seven non-pro Mars machines for the cost of a single SL1 and have a turnkey print farm.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 18:41
|
|
|
Super 3 posted:Those of you with raspberry pi's hooked up to your ender's where did you mount/place it? I took a case I found on thingiverse, imported it into tinkercad, and added a rail on the side that fit into the 4040 rail under the display. (at least I think that's the one I ended up using)  (I'm in the middle of revamping my whole workshop area so everything is dusty) I'm not super happy with the setup though. As you can see the usb power just juts out of the side and is prone to getting knocked about. I could add one of those 90 degree usb adapters, but it'd still stick out. evil_bunnY posted:i don’t think the jump to a mk3s or sl1 is going to result in a noticeable quality upgrade. You buy them for the peace of mind (or judging from how the prusa mini launch has gone, not). I was going to say this but I don't have any first hand experience with the prusa printers. Just going by all the videos and photos it seems like the prusa advantage is exactly what you say.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 18:45
|
|
|
For what it’s worth, since tightening the hot end on my Mini, it’s been running beautifully with literally zero issues.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 18:49
|
|
|
For anyone who is interested, the Mars Pro is currently in stock at MyMiniFactory for US delivery!
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 19:01
|
|
|
So my bed and layer adhesion has dumpstered. I plan to spend tonight tinkering with it, and watching YouTube but does anyone have any suggestions for where to begin troubleshooting? I've tried bed leveling, hair spray, rubbing alcohol, tiny adjustments to create "squish" on the first layer, and none of it seems to help. My last finished print dissintigrated in my hands.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 19:56
|
|
|
Has anyone tried the Polyjuice water washable resin? It's made by a Canadian company and it's cheaper than the standard stuff for me here.
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 20:01
|
|
|
csammis posted:For anyone who is interested, the Mars Pro is currently in stock at MyMiniFactory for US delivery! Not that I was gonna order(ok maybe I was) but it's already out of stock 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 20:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 16:01 |
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:Just my opinion, but the jump from something like a Photon or Mars to an SL1 isn't going to have nearly same the cost/benefit ratio as going from a cheap FDM machine to a Mk3. I'd bet real cash that you wouldn't be able to look at a print and know which machine it came out of. I've never once looked at anything that's come off my Photon and thought "Boy, I wish I'd spent the extra $1300 to get the tilt/peel mechanism." Right now in US dollars, you could buy six or seven non-pro Mars machines for the cost of a single SL1 and have a turnkey print farm. evil_bunnY posted:i don’t think the jump to a mk3s or sl1 is going to result in a noticeable quality upgrade. You buy them for the peace of mind (or judging from how the prusa mini launch has gone, not). Yeah, that was ultimately what ended up making the decision for me. Since I'm new to printing I don't know enough to be able to determine how much the extra features are worth to me, but I'm definitely not willing to pay a 400% (?!?) premium for it. Meanwhile, it's not clear to me that there's a huge degree of difference between MSLA printers all using the same technology in terms of achievable -- the variance seems to be in terms of quality of life and reliability. And while I don't want to have a total POS that constantly needs tweaking, it's pretty clear that the Elegoo Mars isn't that. And since I'm doing it as a hobby and not as a production device where downtime = money it feels like I can suffer a few failed prints to learn the ins and outs of the technology (and honestly a LOT of failed prints before it becomes worth an extra $1000). The biggest question mark for me was honestly how good Chitubox was vs the Prusa $L1c3r software. it sounds like you can export from one to the other to print so that doesn't seem like a big deal. While I really appreciate the "Open Source Hardware" nature of Prusa devices, it is not like Elegoo has no community behind it to help sort things out, so I don't feel like I am out on my own in the wilderness with a no-name knock-off made out of radioactive chinesium, either. Anyways, I managed to nab a Mars Pro, and then after that $300 I quickly spent like another $300 on resin, PPE, and miscelaneous processing gear for washing and building a curing station. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 31, 2020 20:39
|
|