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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Cyrano4747 posted:

Plus disposal.

Having some dudes grab your five feet of rust and regret and just disappear with it, never to be seen again, is well worth a few bucks.

It says a lot that until this post I didn't even consider how I would have disposed of it.

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

There is a neighborhood guy who drinks like he's a painter and owns a trailer and he makes my stuff disappear. It was like eight carloads 30 minutes round trip, or he would make it all disappear for $150 cash right then. Small price to pay to get back my Saturday afternoon

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Having trouble finding someone who will just install a sump pump with a battery, so I've opted to do it myself. No experience with this but I think I can do it.

My pit is a concrete hole in the ground (it's in a enclosed outdoor space, for rainwater during heavy storms), so I can't easily make the pit larger.

I want to get this pump. Couldn't find any other options at 1/2 horsepower with a battery backup. My current is 1/3 horsepower and can't really keep up.

https://www.waynepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/woocommerce_uploads/2018/10/WSS30Vn-670006W-001-I_Web-stu6iu.pdf

My issue is it says minimum depth is 22". My pit is more like 19" deep (width is fine).

Am I crazy for thinking it'll be fine at 19"? Or should I find something different.

The spec sheet says the height of the unit itself is 15 1/2 inches high so I imagine a 19" pit should still trigger the float.

https://www.waynepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/woocommerce_uploads/2018/10/Wayne_WSS30Vn_SS.pdf

Pilfered Pallbearers fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Aug 19, 2022

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

StormDrain posted:

It says a lot that until this post I didn't even consider how I would have disposed of it.

Story of my refrigerator-changing life, buddy... :suicide:

:downs:: "HEY I'LL BUY A FRIDGE STRAIGHT FROM THE MANUFACTURER AND UNDERCUT THE STORE!"
Landfill: "gently caress no, we don't take fridges. Also, it's illegal for you to drain the refrigerant yourself. Just FYI."

Spikes32
Jul 25, 2013

Happy trees
Excited to start the home ownership journey, but especially grateful that we found this in our current rental as we were packing and not in the house we just bought. I'm not terrified at all

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



If something like that happens at your house, at least you know that it will be addressed promptly.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Having trouble finding someone who will just install a sump pump with a battery, so I've opted to do it myself. No experience with this but I think I can do it.

My pit is a concrete hole in the ground (it's in a enclosed outdoor space, for rainwater during heavy storms), so I can't easily make the pit larger.

I want to get this pump. Couldn't find any other options at 1/2 horsepower with a battery backup. My current is 1/3 horsepower and can't really keep up.

https://www.waynepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/woocommerce_uploads/2018/10/WSS30Vn-670006W-001-I_Web-stu6iu.pdf

My issue is it says minimum depth is 22". My pit is more like 19" deep (width is fine).

Am I crazy for thinking it'll be fine at 19"? Or should I find something different.

The spec sheet says the height of the unit itself is 15 1/2 inches high so I imagine a 19" pit should still trigger the float.

https://www.waynepumps.com/wp-content/uploads/woocommerce_uploads/2018/10/Wayne_WSS30Vn_SS.pdf

I cannot, for the life of me, figure out why they require a 22" depth. Some submersible pumps depend on being submerged in order to stay cool, but that's not the case here given the primary pump turns on at ~9" water depth and off at ~4" depth, with the backup at 10" (and shuts off based on a timer + loss of activation of the backup float). The only thing I can think of is that it relates to what they think the water table under your slab should be? At 10" being the backup pump activation level, this will leave 12" between the activation point and starting to flood the basement, I don't know if they're just looking for a safety factor here. For what it's worth, I have a system almost identical to the one you're looking at:
https://www.basementwatchdog.com/assets/1/6/Manual_CITE-33_6-9-20220.pdf

Actually I can't remember if it's that one or the 1/2hp version (which they do make). The 1/2hp version is a bit taller, but they still recommend a minimum basin height of 14". They don't detail the exact activation level, but I'd estimate the activation point is around the 10-12" mark. I can't really see a reason they'd recommend 22", but they might try and deny a warranty claim due to improper installation, and I don't know what your house insurance would say in the event of what would be a covered loss if they discover you installed a sump pump outside of the manufacturers recommendations - someone else may be able to comment on that aspect.

Also, the 2nd link indicates a minimum diameter of the sump pit as 15", while the first indicates 16". Wonderful document QC.

When you say your current 1/3 HP pump can't really keep up, what do you mean by that? You should note that the capabilities of the backup pump are significantly less than the primary pump. I'd really recommend looking up the performance information on your current pump and comparing it to the performance of the backup pump. If the backup pump is worse than your current pump, you're only slowing down the flooding during a power outage rather than preventing it.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

TrueChaos posted:

I cannot, for the life of me, figure out why they require a 22" depth. Some submersible pumps depend on being submerged in order to stay cool, but that's not the case here given the primary pump turns on at ~9" water depth and off at ~4" depth, with the backup at 10" (and shuts off based on a timer + loss of activation of the backup float). The only thing I can think of is that it relates to what they think the water table under your slab should be? At 10" being the backup pump activation level, this will leave 12" between the activation point and starting to flood the basement, I don't know if they're just looking for a safety factor here. For what it's worth, I have a system almost identical to the one you're looking at:
https://www.basementwatchdog.com/assets/1/6/Manual_CITE-33_6-9-20220.pdf

Actually I can't remember if it's that one or the 1/2hp version (which they do make). The 1/2hp version is a bit taller, but they still recommend a minimum basin height of 14". They don't detail the exact activation level, but I'd estimate the activation point is around the 10-12" mark. I can't really see a reason they'd recommend 22", but they might try and deny a warranty claim due to improper installation, and I don't know what your house insurance would say in the event of what would be a covered loss if they discover you installed a sump pump outside of the manufacturers recommendations - someone else may be able to comment on that aspect.

Also, the 2nd link indicates a minimum diameter of the sump pit as 15", while the first indicates 16". Wonderful document QC.

When you say your current 1/3 HP pump can't really keep up, what do you mean by that? You should note that the capabilities of the backup pump are significantly less than the primary pump. I'd really recommend looking up the performance information on your current pump and comparing it to the performance of the backup pump. If the backup pump is worse than your current pump, you're only slowing down the flooding during a power outage rather than preventing it.

My current pump was inherited with the house and is extremely old. There is no backup system whatsoever on the current pump.

We've been getting a lot of 1" of rain per hour events here, and in those events the pump can't keep up.

This is not a basement pump. This is a covered pump next to the foundation of the house (NYC so small small lot). The groundwater flows to where the pump is and it pumps it out.

Goal of the replacement is dual. Replace the current 1/3rd pump with a half pump AND add a second battery backup. It doesn't seem common to half 1/2 HP pumps with batteries from what I was researching, but I could be wrong.



Edit: Looked into the 1/2 HP combo basement watchdog system you mentioned and it seems like tons of reviews mention after two years holes form in the cast iron body.

https://www.amazon.com/Basement-Watchdog-BW4000-Gallons-Combination/dp/B001KSVXRA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Pilfered Pallbearers fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Aug 19, 2022

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Yeah, it's serving the same purpose as an internal sump pit though - evacuate the groundwater so it's not pressing on your slab/foundation. I would be concerned that the battery backup pump would not be able to keep up in the event of a power outage, given that a 1/3HP pump doesn't keep up.

I don't have any issues with my basement watchdog setup, and it's going on probably 10? years old (came with the house, based on when that model was discontinued it's at least 10 y/o). I had to replace the impeller, which I'd consider a maintenance item on a 10 year old pump. At this price point, I'm not surprised others have seen issues though! I was mainly looking at the basement watchdog to see if another manufacturer recommended what seems like an excessive depth, and they didn't. If you're comfortable with the performance of the one you're looking at I'd just go for it, depth recommendation be damned.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

TrueChaos posted:

Yeah, it's serving the same purpose as an internal sump pit though - evacuate the groundwater so it's not pressing on your slab/foundation. I would be concerned that the battery backup pump would not be able to keep up in the event of a power outage, given that a 1/3HP pump doesn't keep up.

I don't have any issues with my basement watchdog setup, and it's going on probably 10? years old (came with the house, based on when that model was discontinued it's at least 10 y/o). I had to replace the impeller, which I'd consider a maintenance item on a 10 year old pump. At this price point, I'm not surprised others have seen issues though! I was mainly looking at the basement watchdog to see if another manufacturer recommended what seems like an excessive depth, and they didn't. If you're comfortable with the performance of the one you're looking at I'd just go for it, depth recommendation be damned.

Thanks! I did pull the trigger on it. Picked up a nice battery from a marine supply store today, and the pump is coming today. If it comes early enough It’s going in today.

First plumbing attempt. Wish me luck!

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

gently caress yes more problems with my sump pump setup! Need help so I know what the hell to tell the plumber on Monday what’s happening.

First things first, the pump works. And is insanely fast compared to my old pump. The backup pump is also much faster than the original, despite being the same 1/3 hp pump. Battery works too. Got a super nice high energy battery from a boat supply store.

Old pump once I got it out was an insanely old, lovely plastic model with no labeling or branding. Surprised it still works. New pump in action.



Photos of the space so you know kinda what’s up.






Now onto the problem. When the main (1/2 hp) pump runs, water started leaking out of the ceiling of the crawl space where the pipe goes in



Pulled back some insulation and



What in the gently caress is this, and why is it leaking water into my crawl space ceiling?

This only happens when the main pump runs. When The 1/3 hp backup pump the water either drips out very little or doesn’t drip at all (hard to tell with back to back tests). With how little the 1/3 hp pump dripped who knows if the original pump was dripping out this mystery pipe or not.

It’s not anywhere near all the water. I can hear most of the water going out the giant pipe on the sidewall.

What the gently caress is going on, how do I fix this or how do I tell a plumber what’s wrong? For now at least I have this little pipe exposed so it can re-drain into the sump pit.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Last photo isn't rendering

Pipes should not leak. Period. Sounds like improper installation

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

What the gently caress is going on, how do I fix this or how do I tell a plumber what’s wrong?

You expose more to see where it leaking. Or you tell the plumber "it leaks out of here when the pump runs".

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Hadlock posted:

Last photo isn't rendering

Pipes should not leak. Period. Sounds like improper installation

Here’s a screenshot from it.

It’s just this little tiny guy, chilling in the ceiling. I didn’t wanna rip more insulation out before I had an idea what it was, so I’m not sure where it comes from. Just like a tiny little opened ended pipe.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The first couple of photos show what look like 2-3" smooth rigid white PVC pipe

Newest photo looks like 1" ribbed flexible piping

Yeah I would point the plumber at this and tell them to fix it. That is very weird

Only way the pipe would change (probably) is if your sump pump goes into another system. This looks like (wild rear end guess) your sump pump is going to the hot water heater drain, which is improperly draining into, what used to be the basement, but the exit got insulated over?

Your underfloor insulation looks pretty new, and I doubt the insulation guys consulted the plumber

Again, wild, wild peanut gallery guessing here

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Hadlock posted:

The first couple of photos show what look like 2-3" smooth rigid white PVC pipe

Newest photo looks like 1" ribbed flexible piping

Yeah I would point the plumber at this and tell them to fix it. That is very weird

Only way the pipe would change (probably) is if your sump pump goes into another system. This looks like (wild rear end guess) your sump pump is going to the hot water heater drain, which is improperly draining into, what used to be the basement, but the exit got insulated over?

Your underfloor insulation looks pretty new, and I doubt the insulation guys consulted the plumber

Again, wild, wild peanut gallery guessing here

Thanks for looking.

It’s a weird setup. This room you’re looking at is underneath a 1st floor back of the house extension (the house is a 1/2 sunk basement). The line goes into the basement crawl space where it dumps into city sewer as it’s supposed to.

The extension has a bathroom with washer/dryer, that the PO renovated. Knowing my PO, I’m sure it’s something dumb as gently caress related to that.

There’s also a surface drain outside that I think links into this system as well but I’m not positive where that surface drain goes.

meanolmrcloud
Apr 5, 2004

rock out with your stock out

Thom Yorke raps posted:

I dunno, but a guy came out and spent a few hours clearing the pipes and now there is no problem. $400, felt like a deal

Did he say what might’ve been the issue? Our basement does this and the first sign of backing up, we have to call someone in to snake it out. After a few years of doing this every 4 months, we called someone to scope it and get it jetted, which is going on 6 months of working fine.

The various plumbers say houses like mine were never intended to have garbage disposals, and any food waste that makes it down to that drain is gonna contribute to it backing up. It’s also the drain for our laundry, and same thing with lint coming off the wash. We’ve found that being more rigorous with keeping those things out of the drain has helped.

The durable solution is to tear up the basement floor and replace that run of pipe with something that isn’t 70 years old, but that’s thousands of dollars and this isn’t our forever home.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

What the gently caress is going on, how do I fix this or how do I tell a plumber what’s wrong? For now at least I have this little pipe exposed so it can re-drain into the sump pit.

You are pumping out at a higher rate than the receiving point can take, resulting in backflow somehow making it back up through that small corrugated pipe. How everything is connected will remain a mystery until the plumber can scope it all, and even then it will likely turn into exposing the entirety of that small pipe to figure out what on earth is going on there. It's also entirely possible that this wasn't an issue before simply because you weren't pumping fast enough for any problems to show up, or it's been leaking like this for years, just not at a high enough rate where you'd notice :v:

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Can't wait to see the duct-taped connection between the PVC and the flex pipe

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

PainterofCrap posted:

Can't wait to see the duct-taped connection between the PVC and the flex pipe

This, also the flex pipe is probably plugged, buried in dirt. Going down a pipe size would just increase velocity

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Looking at the first to photos again

Looks like you have (electrical?) metal conduit that comes out of the wall behind your black boiler thing.... and then converts into silver flexible pipe? that is just coiled up on the wall and .... stops?

Probably not wise to connect white flexible hose to silver flexible hose, but maybe the silver hose originally drained the white hose, which drains your overflow (sump) ... overflow pipe. So many questions. Where did the basement graffiti come from :confused:

Fake edit: I am also on team duct tape joint

Rabidbunnylover
Feb 26, 2006
d567c8526b5b0e
Not sure if this should go here or in the legal thread, but I've run into a problem with my general contractor and I'm trying to figure out where to go with it. This is all happening in California.

As part of building an ADU, they installed a new two-socket meter panel on the side of the main house. Unfortunately, their electrician chose a location for the meter that, while convenient in terms of the original panel, doesn't have the 36" depth clearance required by PG&E (and apparently also by the CA Electric Code) due to a privacy fence. PG&E has told them that they're not going to hook up the meter until this fixed, so the GC is now saying that I need to pay for the privacy fence to be moved. The GC claims that a different PG&E inspector previously approved the location with the reduced clearance, but doesn't have any documentation of this.

My initial reaction to this was basically "you created the problem, you need to fix it" and the contract has language that requires work to comply with applicable laws, regulations, and ordinances.

I'm still going around with them, but 1) am I being unreasonable? and 2) is this something the licensing board is likely to help with? The dollar amount is high enough to be annoying, but low enough that it's probably not worth engaging with a lawyer.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
If they didn't write down the name of the person who did the meter spot and get a written variance this is technically on them. Reality is that you need them to finish the job. You should be getting a steep discount on the fix for this. Otherwise expect future change orders or punch list items to be suspiciously expensive or slow to resolve. Ask them to split the fix with you.

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
I did a thing. Still have to mess with the lines a bit more.


Total cost was $125, including posts, concrete, shade, and hardware. The shade came with cheap poly rope but I used some climbing cord that I had on hand.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Looks great. My wife wants to get one of those shades for our outdoor seating area

The sizes have changed, but my outdoor backyard lighting solution is uhmwpe 1.8mm cord, works great, has about 2% creep over the first two months, but then stabilizes. Used with 304 turnbuckles to pull the slack out

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BKQLFRB

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Big fan of those sails. Just don’t underestimate the force that a good wind will put on the tie ends.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006
Just to check: you buried at least 1/3 the post into the ground? Cement? (Or did the rigging calculation?)

Friends of ours did this same setup and put 12" and one bag in the hole. (It's literally what she said...) I suggested they didn't put enough in but you know how it goes. 24hrs later it fell down and were digging a new hole.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

H110Hawk posted:

Just to check: you buried at least 1/3 the post into the ground? Cement? (Or did the rigging calculation?)

And if that depth didn't exceed the frost line its still not deep enough.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Motronic posted:

And if that depth didn't exceed the frost line its still not deep enough.

Lol I always forget about frost lines. Living in places where the frost line is several (thousand) feet off the ground has never drilled that into my head.

I love sails, I kind of want to spend an unreasonable amount of money to plant a mature tree where some prior idiots cut down one in the middle of our back yard then hang sails out to the edges of the property to give me a ton of shade. Then readjust as the canopy matures out.

And for the poster above I think it looks great!

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
On the subject of hanging poo poo in the air:

What sort of density should I be looking for with string lights to be the "primary" light source over a deck?

We have a 12x14 deck that we have yet to hang lights over:



Going to eventually install a pole in the ground by the near corner, and the house/porch will be the other 3 anchor points for guide wire.

edit:

Something like this is what we'd be hanging up:

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/221925/PLTS-12132.html

So basically trying to figure out how many we'd need total.

Also I get that this would be bulb-dependent somewhat. No idea what sort of lumens/sq ft we're looking for here, but looks like the bulbs for this sort of application are typically in the realm of 150 lumens or so.

DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Aug 22, 2022

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

H110Hawk posted:

Just to check: you buried at least 1/3 the post into the ground? Cement? (Or did the rigging calculation?)

Friends of ours did this same setup and put 12" and one bag in the hole. (It's literally what she said...) I suggested they didn't put enough in but you know how it goes. 24hrs later it fell down and were digging a new hole.

Of course! I've got 3' in the ground, just less than 8' above. Zone 7b, what's a frost line \s

I did skimp on the concrete, only 1x 50lb bag per hole. I'm not positive that this is a permanent solution for the patio and didn't want to make it super permanent.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

You want the feit electric bulbs, accept no substitutes. Also known as "the costco string lights" in all the reddit reviews. I looked at 1000bulbs as well and I'm really glad I got the feit brand

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B9CNF8C

Looking around all the outdoor seating/patio areas for all the local restaurants this is what they're using. How many you need depends on square footage and average height above the ground, I can take some photos later. Plan on needing 1-2 more sets than you need

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I have four of the Costco sets covering ~2500sqft of lawn and they're good. I'm still going to run a partial set along the last wire the PO set up but didn't actually string any lights to, just because it's already there.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

DaveSauce posted:

On the subject of hanging poo poo in the air:

What sort of density should I be looking for with string lights to be the "primary" light source over a deck?

We have a 12x14 deck that we have yet to hang lights over:



Going to eventually install a pole in the ground by the near corner, and the house/porch will be the other 3 anchor points for guide wire.

Sorry looking at this again

With roughly 10' spacing on the deck side I think your plan of 3x24 lights ought to be enough. Your biggest issue is going to be height off the ground

I'd set the pole so that the lights come off the enclosed patio right below the eave and stay 7-8' above your head. In our back yard to make everything match in height as they radiate out the lowest tie off point was out shed which was 8', with the natural droop of the guide wire, plus the ~5" of cable + light I can walk under them at 6' without hitting my head but just barely. Wife complained they were too low when I installed them. You have two major heights distances so you'll end up with a well lit porch and the area by the pole... Won't. I guess three lights converge there so it won't be awful

Definitely order the lights and spread them out to get a good idea of how much light they put out. One string doesn't put out hardly any light but by the time you get three + reflective walls like your house really brightens things up

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
Can you terminate those string lights or snip the plugs and make a tee? I'm trying to figure out how I want to light my patio and I'd like to keep the runs symmetric.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NomNomNom posted:

Can you terminate those string lights or snip the plugs and make a tee? I'm trying to figure out how I want to light my patio and I'd like to keep the runs symmetric.

The ones I bought from 1000bulbs (https://www.1000bulbs.com/fil/products/153441) are simple molded 2-wire. I didn't need all 100 feet so I cut some off and saftied the end of the run.



I wouldn't hesitate to throw a plug, receptacle, or whatever on the end to join them to another string providing you're not over-amping them (doubtful as these are made for incandescents and I'm sure we're all using LEDs)

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
My wife and I bought two sets of the costco lights but they were the older incandescent version and the bulbs didn't last for poo poo plus they were very fragile. We used up all the spare bulbs and I will be buying LED replacement bulbs going forward.

Lawnie
Sep 6, 2006

That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
It doesn't even fit
Grimey Drawer
I bought several sets of lights at Home Depot because my wife wanted specifically round globe bulbs. I’ve used up all the spares, nobody stocks the type of bulb locally, and all the online retailers are shady or Amazon drop ship poo poo that isn’t what’s advertised. It’s this set of lights from HD and I can’t even get a straight obvious answer of what the replacement bulbs are.

Probably going to get the Costco ones next year and move the Home Depot ones elsewhere in the yard. Really annoying that Home Depot doesn’t have replacement bulbs for the lights they sell.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Lawnie posted:

I bought several sets of lights at Home Depot because my wife wanted specifically round globe bulbs. I’ve used up all the spares, nobody stocks the type of bulb locally, and all the online retailers are shady or Amazon drop ship poo poo that isn’t what’s advertised. It’s this set of lights from HD and I can’t even get a straight obvious answer of what the replacement bulbs are.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/fil/categories/led-decorative-bulbs

I can't tell how big those globes are, but that page will take you to the various sizes you can choose from.

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Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Pilfered Pallbearers posted:

Here’s a screenshot from it.

It’s just this little tiny guy, chilling in the ceiling. I didn’t wanna rip more insulation out before I had an idea what it was, so I’m not sure where it comes from. Just like a tiny little opened ended pipe.



Update on this. Plumber came by and said

"I have no idea what the hell that could be. Usually those are for AC condensate but you don't have an AC. I'll cap it tomorrow and see what happens."

Super nice local dude, wouldn't take any money for it either. So well see tomorrow!

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