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jamal posted:That car definitely has at least one cracked ringland. I saw it on the dealer website and thought, oh, $24k for an STi with only 38,000 miles? I could probably go for that. Then I started flipping through the pictures. "Oh, that engine has had some work done. Hmm, guess they left a bottle in the trunk. That's a bit odd for a dealer. Oh, that looks like an RV water pump HANG ON A MINUTE." Funny there's absolutely no mention of mods in the ad. Maybe they think it's supposed to be like that. I bet it'd be fun until it explodes*. *may already be exploded
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 15:10 |
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If that's on Stock Pistons lol.
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saint gerald posted:My quest for a nice used WRX continues. What are the danger spots for a stock 2004 with ~93,000 miles? Danger comes from improper maintenance and harsh driving. Make sure there are records. Timing belt is 7yr/105,000mi so make sure that's done or take that into account on the selling price. When taking it for a test drive, make sure the tranny feels good; shifts smooth with no noise. The tranny doesn't stand up to abuse very well, so if it isn't good, it's a pretty good hint the car was beat on. Check the undercarriage and body for rust.
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InitialDave posted:Stuff The stock tune on every turbo Subaru is boring exactly in the way you described. Google can show you endless dyno charts comparing 'stage 1' and 2 vs stock. Typically the power comes on much faster and holds better through the rev range. With a downpipe (you can buy them catted) you'll notice a huge improvement. Tuning is cheap if you go open source. Last time I checked there was a guy doing stage 1 tunes for $80 where I live. Like others said, an alignment and a rear sway bar will help a lot with handling. When I was looking, I found a used 20mm sti rear sway bar on craigslist for $40. I don't know a single person who has a turbo Subaru that hasn't modified it in some way. Out of the box they are good cars, but they improve dramatically with a few cheap upgrades. Before you spend the extra cash, maybe you could find someone locally who could show you how the upgrades changed their car.
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saint gerald posted:I saw it on the dealer website and thought, oh, $24k for an STi with only 38,000 miles? I could probably go for that. Throw up a post on your regional section on NASIOC with full pictures and whatnot to see if you can find the owner, then figure out what's been done. So far, it looks like: Front mount intercooler Hard turbo inlet Cold air intake Mishimoto xline radiator AEM meth kit at one point, it probably had an aftermarket EBCS, fuel injectors, and a master cylinder brace with the way the lines are distressed/flipped, and little OEM things missing ![]() it looks like it has some electrical work, from the two or so lines added - probably gauge senders
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I've never seen a BPV just hanging out in space like that before. What a weird design.
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McSpatula posted:Throw up a post on your regional section on NASIOC with full pictures and whatnot to see if you can find the owner, then figure out what's been done. That's a good idea, I think I might do that later. Another question: would you buy an 04 STi with 100k on the body, but a engine rebuild (with goodies) performed by Fastech down in TN 2,000 miles ago? I'd steer clear of a rebuild as a rule, but it occurs that if Fastech are known for good work then it might be more reliable than stock.
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Next project, timing belt replacement. Is the Gates TCK328 kit on amazon with the Gates 43513 water pump the standard people get for a 04 WRX? My understanding is to get a proper gasket from the dealer for the pump, and use the rest of the Gates stuff, sound right?
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Don't forget to do the idler pulleys while you are in there, it's cheap insurance against your new timing belt being taken out by a bearing grenade like what happened to me (thanks, PO).
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Terrible Robot posted:Don't forget to do the idler pulleys while you are in there, it's cheap insurance against your new timing belt being taken out by a bearing grenade like what happened to me (thanks, PO). Yeah, the kit should come with pulleys and a new tensioner.
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Yeah, the kit should come with pulleys and a new tensioner. ![]()
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Next project, timing belt replacement. Jamal will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong... TCKWP328B is the kit to use if you have the oil cooler. (3 outlet pump) TCKWP328 is the kit with the 2 outlet pump.
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If you go to the gates site you can look up the right part. I think C is for the 2-inlet pump. A and B are differences in idlers or impellers or both or something.
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How do you know if there is an oil cooler present? Order both and return the one you do not use?
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Mercury Ballistic posted:How do you know if there is an oil cooler present? Order both and return the one you do not use? The cooler sit between the oil filter and the block, and has a water line running to the water pump; it'll be apparent if you have one. Definitely be attentive when ordering; it's not always obvious whether you're ordering a 2 or 3 port pump and this has burned me. As for a gasket I used a Beck/Arnley, part #0394165 (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...9454&cc=1440451). This particular one is for an 08 so make sure you find one that fits your vehicle but it's steel, no hassle to get on, and sealed well for me.
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I'm regretting buying my Pilot Sport AS3s last year; they're pretty worthless in the snow. I think I'm going to go back to summers (even though it rains here a lot) most of the year and get some steelies with snow tires. What kind do you guys think would be good for the Saabaru?
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Stock answer: studded Altimax Arctics.
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Stock answer: studded Altimax Arctics. Or Blizzaks.
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I really like my Hankook I-Pike's. They've made for a boring winter thus far.
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toplitzin posted:Or Blizzaks. I run blizzaks, they're incredible.
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I like arctic claws and winter forces because I'm cheap. Honestly any snow with siping left is a good tire
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I have the cheapest Dunlop winter tires, but I've run Altimax Arctics, Nokian Hakkapeliittas, and Blizzaks on other cars. Any snow tire will beat the poo poo out of the best all-seasons in winter weather.
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I was almost in the market for an immediate replacement -- a fifty-foot pine fell ten feet behind the wagon yesterday. gently caress this weather.
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I don't remember what kind of snow tires I have- coopers or dunlops. They were cheap and work. Thanks SSswitch!
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My '06 Outback got totaled by a snowplow so now I'm in the market for another. What's the word on the L.L. Bean edition? Is the 3.0R worth having over the 2.5?
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Elston Gunn posted:My '06 Outback got totaled by a snowplow so now I'm in the market for another. What's the word on the L.L. Bean edition? Is the 3.0R worth having over the 2.5? Well for one, they only come in automatic if you care.
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Amandyke posted:Define lack of performance... For the price of a downpipe, 3" cat back exhaust and a tune (even an OTS) you can make 300 AWHP from most any 2011+ WRX. Cobb has a fancy kit for $2,750 with more parts than what you would actually need. Wow, is this true? a DP, catback, and a tune yields 300whp on a non-sti wrx?
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ROFLburger posted:Wow, is this true? a DP, catback, and a tune yields 300whp on a non-sti wrx? Feel free to browse Cobb's Dyno Database and look for yourself, but here's an example: ![]() That jives with what my tuner tells me he does with every stage 2 tune he does. He's a bit more paranoid though and adds a walbro 255lph fuel pump to his stage 2 setups. Amandyke fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Feb 7, 2014 |
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How much are you shortening the lifespan of the car when you do that I wonder?
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VelociBacon posted:How much are you shortening the lifespan of the car when you do that I wonder? Assuming it's not being thrashed upon constantly, and it's a fairly conservative tune with proper fuel trims all around, it's really hard to say. I've seen conservative setups last easily into the 100k range(usually till turbo oil seals fail), along with some weekend racer types, but it always comes down to how well it's maintained, how it's driven, etc.
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Wow, that seems really impressive
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I'm sorry to bring up coilovers after the big discussion pages back, but I've never bought them before and I'm wondering, what do I need to look at/know before I buy them? Basically can I just get any set that the they say will fit my car and throw them on with the rest being stock? Would I need to buy supporting stuff to go with them or remove stuff apart from the stock springs?
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:I'm sorry to bring up coilovers after the big discussion pages back, but I've never bought them before and I'm wondering, what do I need to look at/know before I buy them? Basically can I just get any set that the they say will fit my car and throw them on with the rest being stock? Would I need to buy supporting stuff to go with them or remove stuff apart from the stock springs? What platform are you working with, what are your goals, etc? Dampening control (bound and rebound) and adjustability, along with the ability to rebuild them, or even get a custom spring and shim stack initially, are very situation dependant; so, without knowing what you'll be doing, it's hard to specifically recommend X over Y. Generally, if you're just looking to maintain ride height somewhere around stock, you won't really need to worry too much about CG and general suspension geometry issues, but if you're looking to be hellawhatever you'll eventually run into drastic handling issues.
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McSpatula posted:What platform are you working with, what are your goals, etc? Basically I just want it to handle better and feel more fun and less like I'm on the edge of losing control and dying when I take corners at a decent speed. I don't care about my car being hella flush, if it gets lower without having to spend a heap more or running into issues, then that would be awesome, but I'm perfectly happy with it remaining at stock height. Subarus already get picked on enough by the cops without them pulling me over to check that I meet height regulations (100mm from the ground at the lowest point), but I'd still appreciate the look either way so I guess I'm indifferent. I drive a 2003 impreza hatch, which in not America is the first year of the blobeye. I'm looking at some point getting a blob eye sedan wrx, so I'm assuming it would just transfer between the two? Hawk/bugeye too maybe because arent they all the same body with different fronts? I'd only do it for my current car if it can transfer over, and if I did do it, it would be the deciding point between a GC8 and blobeye WRX later down the track, I can't decide which one I like more and the probable added maintenance and lack of luxury makes the price difference of an 6-9 year newer car worth it. I know I can get a hawkeye and get a 2.5L engine but they cost too much to buy and run until I finish uni and start my career, which will take me until 2019 because medicine.
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ROFLburger posted:Wow, is this true? a DP, catback, and a tune yields 300whp on a non-sti wrx? Really you don't need the catback even. Just the downpipe and tune will get you ~280+whp/300wtq.
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I would like people's opinions on this for my 2004 WRX hybrid build. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-IMPR...ff4b593&vxp=mtr I don't want to go with a FMIC, and have been told that the Chinese TMICs are not worth it.
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daslog posted:I would like people's opinions on this for my 2004 WRX hybrid build. Stock turbo?
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Seems like that is about the going rate and it will help a lot. If you can find an IC from an 08+ sti they are bigger.
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Sorry, just to close the loop on tire chat - what do you guys like for summers that can still handle rain well? My last pair were Ventus V12s, which were fine, I'm just wondering if there's something else I should look at.
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# ? Jun 10, 2024 15:10 |
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jamal posted:Seems like that is about the going rate and it will help a lot. If you can find an IC from an 08+ sti they are bigger. Is there a year where they won't fit?
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