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nadmonk posted:Also, every living person uses the parking pawl as the parking brake on an automatic. As I said, we literally never use the parking brake, which is not uncommon for people with automatics. stevobob posted:This is wrong, you are wrong If you change "every" to "nearly every American," you're dead on... poo poo, I got new page'd. I didn't work on my car today. Last week or something I put a new flying saucer in my car. 
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May 7, 2019 11:42
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bird cooch posted:I should probably start a thread. Do the needful. I too would fix the parking brake since it's called an emergency brake for a reason, but I too never use mine unless I'm playing in the snow. Wife would always use hers in our flat garage and it drove me nuts every time I got in to drive it.
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May 7, 2019 12:51
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stevobob posted:This is wrong, you are wrong I've never met anyone who uses their parking brake in an automatic. 
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May 7, 2019 14:57
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After buying my first automatic a year ago you can put me in the lazy driver club. I just slam that bitch in park and walk away. Only time the handbrake gets used is on hills which is a rarity round here. So I can fully understand the American way of driving now.
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May 7, 2019 14:58
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The trick is doing it on inclines before shoving it into park. Otherwise the pawl is basically taking the load.
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May 7, 2019 15:02
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C-Bangin' it
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If everyone else neglected to signal off a bridge would do it too? 
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May 7, 2019 15:27
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Got started on pulling the turbo and manifold on my FiST. Engine bay is gross, had to give the valve cover a serious cleaning before pulling the plugs. I've got a huge list of parts and maintenance to take care of this spring. First up is fixing the minor exhaust leaks and heat wrapping the manifold, intake, etc.  
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May 7, 2019 15:28
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yay! Have you considered ceramic coating the manifold in addition or instead of? Just curious 
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May 7, 2019 17:21
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EvilBeard posted:I've never met anyone who uses their parking brake in an automatic. We have one automatic vehicle, my wife’s daily driver Colorado, and that gets the parking brake engaged every single time. She’s very good about it after I drilled it into her head years ago that the parking pawl is weak sauce.
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May 7, 2019 18:04
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Raluek posted:Are you ok? I got to sleep in the bed. But it was a little quiet all evening.
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May 7, 2019 18:14
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BlackMK4 posted:yay! Have you considered ceramic coating the manifold in addition or instead of? Just curious I didn't really, no. Just don't know enough about it tbh, not that I think it wouldn't work. What does that sort of thing run?
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May 7, 2019 19:05
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Dealer called. They say it's not the plastic lines from the fuel pump; they said the supply and return lines (steel) are rusted out. They also said I need all new struts/shocks, new tires, new brakes, new hoses, new serpentine belt, new air filter, new valve cover gasket, and a new exhaust (all of these things are new in the past year except for the exhaust, filter is 1 day old). Oh, and it'll be $160 for checking it out, $1430 to replace the lines.  The service bulletin also says there's not to be a charge to the customer if it winds up not being the fuel pump, and to let the customer know before doing any further diagnosis.  I read that word for word to the service advisor, and said I never authorized any diagnosis further than described in the special warranty bulletin, he said "well, we did the diagnosis, we need to be paid." Told him to call me when it was ready to pick up and I'd open a complaint with GM. Called GM and opened a complaint, about an hour later he called back to say the car was back together and he'd waived the charge, and hung up on me. Not a pleasant person to deal with in general.Some forums searching reveals GM used some heat wrap tape that traps water on the fuel and brake lines in front of the LR wheel. Poked my head under there...  Welp.  Looks like LinesToGo makes a set that comes in multiple sections, and several people on Saturnfans have used them with good results. I may need to replace those brake lines too, but flaring in a new section of those isn't hard. Weird that it's only that section of (uncovered) fuel line that's rusty, the rest looks pretty decent (I'm not about to pull the heat wrap off to look under there, for all I know that may be all that's holding the line together). I figure it'll probably take a few hours with a lift (and something beefy enough to cut the old line into pieces). Or I may just cut out the bad section and replace it with rubber or nylon.Elviscat posted:STR, my man, my old Ranger holds on hills in 1 or R despite the time it stopped running on the highway due to lack of oil, I know funds are tight, but if Negative Ions has that bad compression, it might be a good time to start looking at alternative transportation. Compression is decent on it, but the final drive is just stupid tall on it. Old Saturd was the same way. After today's verdict, I'm definitely considering another car very soon, but I can get a lot more for it with it not leaking fuel. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 22:04 on May 7, 2019 |
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May 7, 2019 21:21
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2006 Xterra. Changed the rear diff oil. Went ahead and popped the cover off while I was down there, painted it to match the calipers/tow hook. I've got a $4 Xterra decal on the way that I may slap on as well but I'm thinking that red might be loud enough as is.  +  ?STR posted:Dealer called. They say it's not the plastic lines from the fuel pump; they said the supply and return lines (steel) are rusted out. They also said I need all new struts/shocks, new tires, new brakes, new hoses, new serpentine belt, new air filter, new valve cover gasket, and a new exhaust (all of these things are new in the past year except for the exhaust, filter is 1 day old). Oh, and it'll be $160 for checking it out, $1430 to replace the lines. lol holy smokes. Nice plays though.
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May 7, 2019 23:55
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STR posted:Dealer called. They say it's not the plastic lines from the fuel pump; they said the supply and return lines (steel) are rusted out. They also said I need all new struts/shocks, new tires, new brakes, new hoses, new serpentine belt, new air filter, new valve cover gasket, and a new exhaust (all of these things are new in the past year except for the exhaust, filter is 1 day old). Oh, and it'll be $160 for checking it out, $1430 to replace the lines. Some days you need to be an rear end in a top hat and watch someone else dance to your tune.
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May 8, 2019 00:15
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STR posted:Dealer called. They say it's not the plastic lines from the fuel pump; they said the supply and return lines (steel) are rusted out. They also said I need all new struts/shocks, new tires, new brakes, new hoses, new serpentine belt, new air filter, new valve cover gasket, and a new exhaust (all of these things are new in the past year except for the exhaust, filter is 1 day old). Oh, and it'll be $160 for checking it out, $1430 to replace the lines. Hell yeah good job!
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May 8, 2019 03:00
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Who the hell sees a Saturn Ion roll into the shop and thinks “yeah, I’m gonna soak moneybags here”?
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May 8, 2019 03:02
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PaintVagrant posted:I didn't really, no. Just don't know enough about it tbh, not that I think it wouldn't work. What does that sort of thing run? It is completely worth it. I'm not sure where you are located, but Jet Hot will cost about $200-250 for your manifold (https://store.jet-hot.com/products/coat-your-parts). I had it done on my turbo civic and again on my SS's headers. The headers in my SS can be touched with a bare hand after driving it. The Civic spooled 300ish RPM faster with the coating than without. It also lowered my IATs by 15 degrees on the civic. And it won't rust. The only real downside is your car will be down while the manifold is shipped/coated/returned. It took about 10 days for mine.
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May 8, 2019 03:54
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Dadliest Worrier posted:Who the hell sees a Saturn Ion roll into the shop and thinks “yeah, I’m gonna soak moneybags here”? In the twisted mind of a dealership, it's a win-win. If they can convince you that your current car needs $$$ work, they can then convince you why you're better off trading it in on something else instead. Not excusing it, but there is some method to the madness and it works more times than not.
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May 8, 2019 04:07
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Dadliest Worrier posted:Who the hell sees a Saturn Ion roll into the shop and thinks “yeah, I’m gonna soak moneybags here”? They didn't even bother quoting anything but the fuel lines - they just checked "fail" or "marginal" on almost everything on their little inspection form. Including stuff it doesn't have. Apparently my power steering fluid is dirty (it's electric, no fluid), and my DEF was low, plus my transmission is low on fluid/dirty (... no dipstick on a manual) and my CV joint boots are "fail" (they're in good shape). They also put "customer requested multi point inspection" on the invoice. I did not, I specifically wrote "Special coverage 12191B, call if not applicable before going further" on the form I put in the night drop. The best part is what they told me what they'd be charging me for the fuel lines - over $450. I called the parts desk, they said $300. OEM on Rockauto is <$200 (plus $horrible$ shipping since it's two long pieces). I have no interest in replacing them in one long segment, that would require dropping the fuel tank and exhaust. The LinesToGo set has both the pressure and evap line in 4 segments each that just screw together with flared fittings and o-rings. The last pressurized segment is supposed to be the most difficult; it goes over the top of the gas tank. I'll need an inspection mirror to get that part over (.... Harbor Freight is calling my name again). Goober Peas posted:In the twisted mind of a dealership, it's a win-win. If they can convince you that your current car needs $$$ work, they can then convince you why you're better off trading it in on something else instead. Also, this. Made drat sure I'll never buy a car from an Autonation dealership.
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May 8, 2019 05:31
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Ha! The DEF thing might be the funniest part.
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May 8, 2019 05:38
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Dadliest Worrier posted:Ha! The DEF thing might be the funniest part. He's running dry
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May 8, 2019 06:21
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Well he had no DEF so of course it was low. Give this dealer some credit. Geez.
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May 8, 2019 15:12
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 Washed, polished, waxed, tinted. Still have to do some things, namely the black plastic trim and front and rear bumpers. Tires too but I gotta do something with the wheels anyway since the inside portions are all corroded aluminum.
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May 8, 2019 20:19
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KakerMix posted:
Dialed in the ride height and got the alignment close to where I want it, until I can bring it to work and get it on the alignment machine. Also installed some fog lights, and cleaned up/painted the exhaust. Coming together! Hopefully soon I can get the 222D style hatch mounted up on there.      
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May 8, 2019 20:35
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Liquid Communism posted:I hit the loving trunk button on my Vic while backing out of the lot yet again, and finally said gently caress this noise and put in the new stereo while I was at it. Weird placement. Did the cops have something else in the original radio location? So why didn't you just use adapter plugs instead of cutting factory wires? Check your local wrecking yards - there's a panel that goes at the bottom of the stack against the tunnel that has a 12V socket in it, and there's a slide out cupholder/ashtray unit that sports a cigarette lighter that goes just below the radio. bird cooch posted:accidentally showed my wife Excel spreadsheet for the Corvette cost. Ooooooo, don't do that. In fact, don't look at it yourself. It only leads to sadness. STR posted:Dealer called. They say it's not the plastic lines from the fuel pump; they said the supply and return lines (steel) are rusted out. They also said I need all new struts/shocks, new tires, new brakes, new hoses, new serpentine belt, new air filter, new valve cover gasket, and a new exhaust (all of these things are new in the past year except for the exhaust, filter is 1 day old). Oh, and it'll be $160 for checking it out, $1430 to replace the lines. And these fucks wonder why people hate taking their cars to the dealer. That one in particular is shadier than your average Quicky Lube. Yeesh. gently caress those guys - make 'em squirm. STR posted:They didn't even bother quoting anything but the fuel lines - they just checked "fail" or "marginal" on almost everything on their little inspection form. Including stuff it doesn't have. Apparently my power steering fluid is dirty (it's electric, no fluid), and my DEF was low, plus my transmission is low on fluid/dirty (... no dipstick on a manual) and my CV joint boots are "fail" (they're in good shape). God drat, that makes me livid. For gently caress's sake, be honest with people who are clueless - because people who aren't are going to call you out on it. I started on rebuilding the water damaged door panels on my AE86 last weekend.    The upholstery is OK, just needs a new backer board.   Got as far as the CAD template:   And had to make a couple of these clips to replace lost ones:    Those are too heavy gauge of steel, though. Would be a bear to bend - the legs bend to secure the panel to the metal top bit - so I bought a small sheet of 26 ga. steel from Home Despot, since I didn't have anything appropriate handy. Lots of thicker stuff, but nothing thin that isn't *too* thin.
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May 8, 2019 22:47
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STR posted:They didn't even bother quoting anything but the fuel lines - they just checked "fail" or "marginal" on almost everything on their little inspection form. Including stuff it doesn't have. Apparently my power steering fluid is dirty (it's electric, no fluid), and my DEF was low, plus my transmission is low on fluid/dirty (... no dipstick on a manual) and my CV joint boots are "fail" (they're in good shape). I really hope you get it apart, and the leak is definitely from the part on the recall. There has to be somewhere to complain about a manufacturer not honoring a federal recall (I mean for a reason other than not having enough parts in stock like the like the takata airbags).
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May 8, 2019 23:25
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Darchangel posted:Weird placement. Did the cops have something else in the original radio location? Thought about the adapter, said gently caress it and decided to be That PO. If I ever have this one replaced I'll pay someone to wire it more nicely. IIRC the cops had a laptop mounted over the original radio location, since my vic has the split bench instead of buckets so no center console to mount to. I'm still looking on the panel replacement, local yards haven't had anything Vic wise in the last ~6m that wasn't a total crusher job with the interior torn up from a bad wreck. Not a big deal at this point because that white cable you see is a USB3 cable running to the stereo that I'm using as a phone charger.
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May 9, 2019 06:21
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angryrobots posted:I really hope you get it apart, and the leak is definitely from the part on the recall. There has to be somewhere to complain about a manufacturer not honoring a federal recall (I mean for a reason other than not having enough parts in stock like the like the takata airbags). Actually, it's not. First, it's not a recall - it's a "special coverage" (so basically they won't fix it unless it becomes an issue  - and it WILL become an issue if the car lives long enough) (here's the original special coverage bulletin, #12191), and it covers the plastic lines from the pump (integral to the fuel pump assembly, you can't even most of them without dropping the tank) to the steel lines on the car itself, and has since been revised twice - once to expand it to all states and add some other vehicles (12191A), the second time to add the gas tank and filler neck (12191B). It basically extends the warranty on ONLY the nylon lines from the original fuel pump, they're not supposed to leak for the life of the car.Here's the fuel pump module, with the offending lines:  Those lines both go to the fuel filter - one is supply, one is return. I suspect my fuel pump has been replaced at some point, because it's noisy as gently caress (as cheap aftermarket ones tend to be). The dealer claims they dropped the tank, and didn't find any leaks from those lines. The lines felt decent when I changed the filter, but I changed it half an hour after parking it, and didn't try pulling the fuel pump fuse. I barely got a dribble when I pulled the lines, so the supply line to the engine isn't holding pressure (when I changed it on the old car, I pulled the fuse and let it run until it died, cranked it several times until it wouldn't fire, then pulled the lines.. and still got a gasoline facial, though that's probably partly because I didn't change the original filter until nearly 180k, I'm sure it was clogged to hell). There's 2 steel lines on the car - one going to the engine, the other is the evap line from the engine to the rest of the evap system (it's a semi-returnless system - no return from the fuel rail, instead the filter has a return port). The steel supply line has rusted out just behind the LR tire, which is apparently very common if the car spent any time in rust belt states - GM wrapped the fuel and brake lines there in heat reflective tape, since the lines are close to the exhaust, and the tape traps water (... and salt) in there. I'm lucky in that so far, only the supply line has rusted out, the vapor line hasn't (yet). I fully expect the vapor line to crumble to dust once I take the supply line off, and I'm really hoping the brake lines have held up a bit better (they look like they're actually coated instead of bare metal, so fingers crossed on that). We'll find out when I put it on a lift next week. The supply line will crumble to dust as soon as I touch it, there's no ifs ands or buts about that. Now the question is... do I just cut out the rusted section (about a foot) and splice in EFI rated hose, or should I do it right and replace the full line set? I'm gonna do it right even though the car is a pile of poo poo.. I don't want to risk a hose getting damaged by debris, especially so close to the exhaust randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:54 on May 9, 2019 |
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May 9, 2019 06:51
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Double post! So when I put in a new stereo, I had the bright idea of sticking the bluetooth mic into an empty dash switch hole (where the traction control button would go... which AFAIK wasn't optioned on anything without the ultra rare 2.4).  That went... horribly. All people could hear was the HVAC blower and turn signal, unless I yanked it out and held it in my hand, or let it dangle from the mirror. Got a new mic (looks somewhat directional), with double sided tape. Mounted it to the bottom of the rearview mirror - which is where the factory OnStar/built in phone mic is (I'd like to figure out how to splice into it eventually, especially since the OnStar system in this car is officially dead in a few months, but that's something for Future STR to figure out). Ran the wire down the A pillar, which required pulling the side dash panel off. Did I mention this loving car uses 80s/90s style Chevy truck doorjamb switches for the interior lights, mounted to the sides of the dash? Noticed the RAP (retained accessory power) wasn't turning off unless I smacked the switch, and the interior lights were flaky. So I pulled the side panel and switch thinking the switch had died again (.... I just replaced it 2 weeks ago). Pulled the switch, and a wire broke off of the connector.  New pigtail is $30.  I'm gonna go to the junkyard and just snip one for a couple of bucks, no way in hell am I paying $30 for a plug with a few inches of wire. And I guess for now just detaching my stereo faceplate to shut it off until the RAP times out.
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May 9, 2019 08:55
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STR posted:
I've spliced before. I double clamped each end and it was fine. Not my proudest moment but given the circumstances...
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May 9, 2019 12:56
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STR posted:Now the question is... do I just cut out the rusted section (about a foot) and splice in EFI rated hose, or should I do it right and replace the full line set? I replaced a section of hard line on my truck near the fuel filter with a replacement hard line with compression fittings. Took a couple tries but probably a safer bet than using a soft line and clamps, though is admittedly more work. Just needed the right diameter line, got it at Napa. This is a good route if the lines aren't too bendy in that area and there's room to work. This was my first time cutting and flaring lines too. Something like this: https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/fuel-line-repair/dorman-5-16-x-30-in-with-14-mm-fitting-steel-fuel-line-repair/238638_0 only took two kits after kinking the first line too much and not being able to get the compression fittings to seal perfectly first try with the bends. 
Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:06 on May 9, 2019 |
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May 9, 2019 14:03
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Replaced this useless piece of poo poo iPhone cradle: With a little storage tray:  Which netted me maybe a whole inch and a half of depth in the center console, but it took like 10 minutes and my dude at the dealership gave me the tray for free, so I'm happy. Now I just need to figure out somewhere that I can do an oil change and replace the spark plugs. It's shocking how inconvenient it is not having access to my driveway.
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May 9, 2019 18:08
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Bought a set of used 16x7 sparco asseto garas (white) with used RE71R tires. Someones old autocross setup, for $250. Feels like a steal, probably about $1200 new total. Tires probably have maybe 50% life left if I had to guess.
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May 9, 2019 18:19
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PaintVagrant posted:I didn't really, no. Just don't know enough about it tbh, not that I think it wouldn't work. What does that sort of thing run? I'm guessing sub-$200 for a manifold that size PaintVagrant posted:Bought a set of used 16x7 sparco asseto garas (white) with used RE71R tires. Someones old autocross setup, for $250. Feels like a steal, probably about $1200 new total. Tires probably have maybe 50% life left if I had to guess. 
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May 9, 2019 18:24
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Cripes, I felt hurt buying a pair of two rear tires for 700+.
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May 9, 2019 18:26
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When your car uses golf car tires and wheels, poo poo is cheap! Also I assume this dude wanted them gone, selling 4x108 wheel pattern is hard, just FiSTs and older focuses use it really.
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May 9, 2019 18:39
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I guess I figured you were already on one of those 4x100 kits, 
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May 9, 2019 18:41
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BlackMK4 posted:I guess I figured you were already on one of those 4x100 kits, I thought about it, but now I've got 2 sets of 4x108, sooooo
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May 9, 2019 18:56
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Liquid Communism posted:Thought about the adapter, said gently caress it and decided to be That PO. If I ever have this one replaced I'll pay someone to wire it more nicely. IIRC the cops had a laptop mounted over the original radio location, since my vic has the split bench instead of buckets so no center console to mount to. I'm still looking on the panel replacement, local yards haven't had anything Vic wise in the last ~6m that wasn't a total crusher job with the interior torn up from a bad wreck. Not a big deal at this point because that white cable you see is a USB3 cable running to the stereo that I'm using as a phone charger. If you’re interested, I’ll look next time I go to the wrecking yard. For whatever reason, one of my favorite yards almost always has scads of actual P71s. Quite a few parts on mine came from there. What year is yours? I don’t think there’s much difference in that area 98-up, but... Also, a bench seat P71, wow.
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May 9, 2019 20:44
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Got a wheel fixed that I curbed badly. 3 hours and $125 later it looks brand new.  Got my roof and lower middle bumper wrapped in gloss black on Thursday and I absolutely love how it looks. Headlights were put in a few weeks ago.   
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May 12, 2019 03:36
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