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How often will you be swapping the battery pack and how much room do you have? If it is a one time thing and you have room maybe dig a 20"-30" deep trench with some plywood as a "floor" and push the truck over it? Even if you pay someone else to dig it then fill it in after it will be cheaper than any lift solution. Just don't get in the trench yourself (motorcycle jack only) and don't attempt to lift the truck any when doing so since jack stands and even ramps on soil is a deadly combination. Why yes I did indeed grow up on a farm in the middle of nowhere... how did you guess? Edit: Javid posted:
Oh god that gives me flashbacks. Tailgating at a football game, battery/charging light lit up right when I pulled in. I had time to kill post game and a DMM in the truck but couldn't find a problem and out of frustration I smacked the alternator with a hammer. That fixed it for years. Sorry I cursed your alternator is what I'm saying. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 22:44
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JESUS TITTYFUCKING CHRIST 
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Hypnolobster posted:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093NBQNA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_9yblBb77SFK2D Thanks all for the help, I think I found the one combination that can actually work: Floor jack that has over 20" of range: https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-6602LP-Rider-Service-Jack/dp/B00L1ZCN0I/ Jack stands that have over 30" of height: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jack-stands-34924.html If I use wood to raise the jack closer to the frame (and or use a hockey puck or two on the jack saddle) I should be able to raise the entire frame up 30 inches from the ground and put those Fuckoff Jack Stands underneath. Best part is it looks like I can get everything for under $400, and since I'll have it up by the frame instead of the tires, I can spin the rear wheels in place to test the battery. Shifty Pony posted:How often will you be swapping the battery pack and how much room do you have? If it is a one time thing and you have room maybe dig a 20"-30" deep trench with some plywood as a "floor" and push the truck over it? Even if you pay someone else to dig it then fill it in after it will be cheaper than any lift solution. Just don't get in the trench yourself (motorcycle jack only) and don't attempt to lift the truck any when doing so since jack stands and even ramps on soil is a deadly combination. I'll be putting the battery pack in once if I'm lucky... but I'm not lucky. The pack with lift is 1000 pounds, so a ditch won't work; I need a flat surface to roll the motorcycle lift. In fact, where it is now has slanted, pitted asphalt, so I bought some long C-channel rails and made a mini "railroad" to accurately slide the motorcycle lift underneath without it drifting to the side.
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Jun 21, 2018 23:12
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I assume "pay a shop to do it" is out for a reason? Alternator: It looks like my immediate options are: -Explain the situation to oreilly's and see if they will warranty it on the other shop's say-so -try to replace the brush(es) myself -Pay the alternator place to fix it (dude eyeballed it at around $30) -worst case, new alt from somewhere that isn't oreilly's Having to move past option #1 will result in holy hell being raised, but that's beyond the scope of the van repair itself.
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Jun 21, 2018 23:57
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My BRZ has been sitting in a garage for about 10 months due to a situation that I thought would be very temporary but had been extended. The people that have been holding it for me have expressed interest in getting it off their property sooner rather than later. The problem is that I'm 4000 miles away but my wife is able to retrieve it and move it for me. I told her my concerns are the engine oil that's no longer on the cylinder walls, and the tires if they've gone flat. When it was parked it had a can of seafoam put in the gas and the battery was removed. What should be done to it before starting it up for the first time?
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Jun 22, 2018 00:23
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I just bought that floor jack for super cheap if anyone else wanted one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/191800161983 $191, free shipping, no tax ebay coupon "PSUPERSUMMER" for 15% off topcashback.com for 1.5% cashback credit card for 2.5% cashback brought it to $155. Seems really handy because it has a super-low profile for low rider cars, but also the highest lift height of any floor jack I could find.
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Jun 22, 2018 01:07
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It  IS  ... Still not charging  did the full field/regulator bypass test and it immediately cranked up to 14.5 so I'm just dropping $20 on a regulator tomorrow and it should be gtg. Probably fried it testing
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Jun 22, 2018 02:35
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Oh thank god. None of what you did was unnecessary though, that all needed to be cleaned up and required or it would have failed at the worst of times because cars are vindictive like that.
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Jun 22, 2018 03:05
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Yeah, no regrets. I also bought a fuse holder to fuse this circuit which I plan to do once everything is working correctly. And I should have enough wire to tie it into the auto shutdown relay. Maybe.
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Jun 22, 2018 03:22
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So as for the relay/fuse situation: Should I just splice a wire into something coming off the ASD relay and have that be the + into the regulator circuit instead of pulling directly off the alternator + post? And then throw this fuse on that? Also, here's the new regulator mounting spot: The wires to it basically wrap around and sit on some of the coolant hoses, which obviously get pretty hot. Is that an issue or will coolant lines not get hot enough to matter to wiring? Also also, I've heard variations of "setting a battery on the ground is bad for it", can the thread elaborate? Can I sit it on the sidewalk for a second to shut the hood before I bring it upstairs to charge? Can it sit on my 2nd story concrete porch while being charged, do I need to set it on wood spacers or something? How does that even work? PS thanks for letting me monopolize the thread for the last two weeks. Have some fat NAPA shop dogs from this morning as thanks: 
Javid fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 04:51
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Nothing feels better than solving a problem that's been monopolizing your life for so long. Congrats. Have a beer or several and enjoy yourself for a while.  I'm happy for you.
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Jun 22, 2018 05:04
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Why not run the wires under the coolant hoses? I'd go for anything that minimizes chafing on your engine's aorta. Looks like it loops up from below the hoses, around the hoses, and then back to the regulator because <reasons>?
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Jun 22, 2018 05:10
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Javid posted:Also also, I've heard variations of "setting a battery on the ground is bad for it", can the thread elaborate? Can I sit it on the sidewalk for a second to shut the hood before I bring it upstairs to charge? Can it sit on my 2nd story concrete porch while being charged, do I need to set it on wood spacers or something? How does that even work? As I understand it, it may have been a thing 50 years ago but with modern battery tech it's bullshit. Don't worry about it in either scenario you mentioned. I'll admit I think about this Old Dad's Tale whenever I leave a battery on the garage floor but thus far it hasn't hosed me.
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Jun 22, 2018 05:14
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Setting a battery on the ground is mostly an old wives tale. At one time, automotive batteries weren't made of plastic, and acid could seep through them. This wasn't great for the concrete, and could also short the battery. Today's batteries don't give a gently caress. I wouldn't leave one on a garage floor for months during winter (since cold isn't really great for batteries, and a concrete floor is cold), but it's no big deal otherwise. https://www.snopes.com/fact-check/battery-park/ I'd get some split loom tubing (that plastic tubing all the other wires are in) and put the wires in it, then move them behind the coolant hoses. The split loom will add physical protection, and also tidy it up a bit. Wrap a little electrical tape at each end to keep it from sliding around on the wires. Easiest move will probably be to just unplug them at the regulator, then move them behind the hoses. The wiring will probably be fine, but the hoses will eventually wear through. Your proposal for the other wire sounds good to me. Definitely fuse it, though I can't see that circuit needing more than a 5-10 amp fuse. loving pope on a rope though... all this time it was the loving alternator.  That wiring was a mess, and at least a breakdown (if not a fire) waiting to happen though. Great job cleaning it up, now just get it routed behind the hoses. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 05:15
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I wrapped it around cuz A) otherwise it could maybe droop down into the fan or belt due to length B) I didn't want a super sharp bend at the plug. To reroute I'd have to shorten it, which I CAN do, just  . No reason not to when I re-redo it to put in the fuse and etc, I guess.You can see in the pic I didn't actually shrink the heatshrink I'm putting over the crimps yet, because I figured I might have to shorten it. STR posted:loving pope on a rope though... all this time it was the loving alternator. I was gonna lose my poo poo at the oreilly's for that misdiagnosis sending me off on a week-long wiring jihad, but the alt shop guy said it very well could've connected and worked for them, since it was intermittent, not DEAD. Benefit of the doubt, fine, whatever. They DID warranty it with no bullshit when I explained the situation, so all good I guess. This is my luck, when I'm learning a new field of DIYing I seem to wind up doing the most horrific repair process imaginable, so it's all downhill from there. Ask me about blind tapping work-hardened scope mount holes in a 30x stainless rifle barrel.  Given the previous mentions of these regulators being unreliable, is it worth bumping up to the more expensive one? 
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Jun 22, 2018 17:29
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Deteriorata posted:Nothing feels better than solving a problem that's been monopolizing your life for so long. I recently fixed a problem in my 93 Del Sol where the windows, blinker, speedometer, tachometer, odometer, clock, and dashlights would all intermittantly quit working. I could usually nudge the wire bundles under the dash with my foot to get it to work again, but when I would crawl under there and wiggled wires I could never get it to fail. I figured it was a loose ground somewhere on the backside of the fusebox which is next to impossible to get to. Eventually, I found that if I pushed on a certain fuse (Wiper, washer (P/W relay)) I could get it to fail and work. I took the fuse out, bent the tabs a bit, and replaced it and that's all it took to fix it.
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Jun 22, 2018 19:47
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When this charging issue started, the power windows would also quit working intermittently, I initially assumed it was some minimum voltage cutoff to prevent draining the battery. However it turns out whacking the switch on the driver side door makes it work again, so probably a bad switch or connection entirely unrelated. Welp.
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Jun 22, 2018 19:55
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Javid posted:
Is a week of frustration worth more/less than $17 to you?
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Jun 22, 2018 20:03
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Could you technically put a tow hitch on any vehicle? Assuming we're talking about a very small trailer/cart here.
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Jun 22, 2018 20:43
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Dennis McClaren posted:Could you technically put a tow hitch on any vehicle? You can weld steel to steel on any vehicle. The question is "will it fall off and take your bumper with it, and/or can your toy car pull more than a bike trailer"
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Jun 22, 2018 20:55
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Is the regulator circuit something I can power off the ignition switch? Helpfully, my Haynes book doesn't actually cover details about relays beyond general info so I don't know which one to pull from under here, but it does have a nice diagram of what wires do what coming from ignition. I'm thinking wire 2 or 5 would be the one I'd want. These may be dumb questions but I feel like the wiring I just took out is the result of being too cool to ask for help. e: according to youtube, the plug where the ASD relay should be is empty in this thing, so welp  apparently bypassing it is a Thing so I have to figure out what the deal is with THAT now Javid fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 21:10
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Yup, #5 is probably what you want.
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Jun 22, 2018 21:49
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Cool. I did the parasitic drain check before & after, and that circuit was drawing around 3.2 amps. it actually drained the battery enough in the ~hour it was hooked up unswitched that the thing wouldn't start so I have to charge it up some more before I can make sure all my poo poo is working. Lol. Before I changed the wiring to the ignition switch it was working great, so here's hoping I didn't gently caress it up.
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Jun 22, 2018 23:00
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Update: I think I hosed it up. The thing now jumps over 15 volts when running. I ran to shut it off before I noted exactly how many but it was sitting at 15.xx. I have no idea HOW as all I changed was where the power coming into the circuit came from. Idgi. gently caress. Javid fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 23:36
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Javid posted:Update: I think I hosed it up. The thing now jumps over 15 volts when running. I ran to shut it off before I noted exactly how many. Try whacking it with a hammer. 
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Jun 22, 2018 23:39
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Javid posted:
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Jun 22, 2018 23:58
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The regulator didn't like the voltage it was getting from the ignition switch, I guess; it worked fine with voltage right off the alt, so I repurposed the ignition wire splice to run that relay again, and have it governing the juice to the regulator circuit and everything's good now! The original relay is fine once it's fed non-questionable power. Later I think I'm going to have to tally up the issues with this that I fixed that WEREN'T the issue that was ultimately to blame.
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Jun 23, 2018 01:14
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But now think about how much knowledge and know-how you have for something similar. Not ironic.
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Jun 23, 2018 01:34
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Javid posted:Update: I think I hosed it up. The thing now jumps over 15 volts when running. I ran to shut it off before I noted exactly how many but it was sitting at 15.xx. The 25 yr old ignition switch contacts had too much resistance, so when you pulled 3A for the regulator through it you got a significantly lower voltage on the regulator side. Since the regulator uses the voltage coming into it as the voltage it is trying to control it turned the alternator on hard trying to get the voltage it was seeing up to 14.2V or whatever.
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Jun 23, 2018 02:34
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:But now think about how much knowledge and know-how you have for something similar. That is a facet of this I definitely appreciate. Shifty Pony posted:The 25 yr old ignition switch contacts had too much resistance, so when you pulled 3A for the regulator through it you got a significantly lower voltage on the regulator side. Since the regulator uses the voltage coming into it as the voltage it is trying to control it turned the alternator on hard trying to get the voltage it was seeing up to 14.2V or whatever. That's about what I figured was going on. Though the ignition switch is newish.
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Jun 23, 2018 02:41
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Dennis McClaren posted:Could you technically put a tow hitch on any vehicle? I have towed a Coleman pop-up with a '94 Subaru sedan. It was fun.
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Jun 23, 2018 02:50
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Had a friend tow a small UHaul trailer from Maryland to Minnesota with a 1990 Mazda RX-7. The transmission fluid looked like metal flake paint when he drained it after the trip.
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Jun 23, 2018 07:07
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Okay, Honda experts: I've got a 2002 Civic EX sedan with 2 ganked front wheel studs. What's the secret to replacing them without dismantling the knuckle/hub? E: nm, tore it apart and did it right.  balljoint boot.
Dagen H fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Jun 23, 2018 |
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Jun 23, 2018 14:13
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Dixie Cretin Seaman posted:Last week my wife bought a 2018 Subaru Forester to replace her old Accord. She is a relatively petite woman and has just realized she wishes she had sprung for the automatic tailgate option, because it is awkward for her to close the hatch. This seems like as good a place as any to ask advice on this supremely stupid car problem. In case anyone cares, we bought the Autoease kit and paid a local mechanic to install it. It seems to work and my wife is happy.
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Jun 23, 2018 22:38
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1999 Honda Accord, 2-Dr EX coupe, 5sp manual, 2.3L VTEC 4. 160K miles. My son drives it but does not thrash it (he loves this car) The throwout bearing is going, We're also getting a low oil pressure light, so we're pulling the motor & trans to replace: oil pump water pump timing belt & tensioners throwout bearing, clutch & pressure plate down pipe & catalyctic convertor (may wind up doing the entire exhaust) serp belt & tensioners. While we have the thing out of the car, and while it's possible, would it be a good idea to replace the crank & connecting rod bearings? The low-oil pressure light has me a bit spooked that the bearings are worn & it would suck bigly to do all of this, put it all back together, & still get a low-oil-pressure light becaus of FUBAR bearings. OTOH, I hear these engines are tanks. VV we've done the VTEC solenoid shuffle already...the engine responded well to 10W-30 after the oil light would come on with the prescribed 5W-20...light stayed out for about six months...just started binking on & off in the past three weeks. VV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 24, 2018 |
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Jun 24, 2018 02:05
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The VTEC solenoid or whatever it's called could be leaky
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Jun 24, 2018 02:41
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If you are questioning the crank/bearings get some plastigauge and check the tolerances since it'll be out anyway. Don't do this if you don't have a torque wrench to reassemble it. My Golf has low oil pressure due to the crank/bearings since the PO was a movie studio that didn't care about their prop cars.
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Jun 24, 2018 03:39
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Let's talk rusty drums and hubs. The victim: 2006 Saturn Ion that spent 4 years in a salt state. The rear brakes are... fucky, including the parking brake. It's very obvious the self adjuster has failed to do its job for a long time. Pretty sure the drums have never been off before. There are no threaded holes in the factory drums to pop them off (i.e. like the holes Toyota provides, where you screw in some bolts, crank on them, drum goes POP and slides off). What's the best way to get the drums to pop off of the hubs in this case? I'm thinking maybe a crank pulley remover, one that has jaws wide enough to clamp onto the edges of the drums? I'd rather not take an air chisel to them, as I'd prefer to keep the wheel bearings intact. It's crunchy enough with iron oxide that the (bolt on) wheel bearings won't be coming off without power tools. Is there a more appropriate tool?
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Jun 24, 2018 10:29
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You can try tapping them all around with a hammer (you can tap pretty hard), and using PB Blaster on the hub.
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Jun 24, 2018 13:58
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Also heat.
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Jun 24, 2018 16:12
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There should be a way to back off the adjusters by popping off a plug on the back of the drums and reaching in with a screwdriver. Look up a video for it. If the shoes have worn a groove into the drum, you won't get the drum off without backing up the adjusters.
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Jun 24, 2018 19:03
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