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Captain Apollo posted:Okay but I know my battery works. Oh, my bad. I didn't know what you were buying it for.
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Jun 22, 2011 03:39
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Captain Apollo posted:Okay but I know my battery works. Switch it to the thing that looks like this: ->|- (just to the right at the bottom of the dial) Touch the leads together, and you should get a tone. First you want to test the starter switch. Disconnect the plug that goes from the right side control pod to the wiring harness, and on the control pod side of the connector, check that you get a tone when you connect the Yellow/Green wire and the Orange/White wire. Then you want to check that you've got continuity from the wiring harness connecter Yellow/Blue to the Yellow/Green on the starter control relay, WITH THE CLUTCH PULLED IN. If you don't have connectivity there, check the clutch safety switch wiring. Speaking of which...have you checked the clutch and kickstand safety switches? 
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Jun 22, 2011 18:54
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Yes I tried those first. It was so weird cause I rode my motorcycle home, then got on it 30 minutes later to get some food and it had kaput. This was the first day of warm riding that it broke fyi 
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Jun 22, 2011 22:19
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Got my sargent seat on, ignore the gap on the pillon seat, I didn't have it pushed in all the way. No more raggedy rear end seats for this sv 
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Jun 24, 2011 01:51
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So I'm trying to replace the chain on my 2002 SV650S, but I can't get the rear wheel forward enough for the chain to fit on. I've loosened the rear axle nuts and the chain tensioners, but it seems to "stick" on the right side near the brake calipers. Do you need to remove the break caliper in order to push the wheel forward? I haven't really tried forcing it forward too hard for fear of breaking something.
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Jun 25, 2011 05:01
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Yes, but not remove. The axle goes through a part of the caliper, so you need to loosen the bolt that holds the caliper to the swingarm.
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Jun 25, 2011 11:38
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If you've already got the chain intact and have installed the masterlink you'll need to pull the rear axle out entirely so you can slide the wheel all the way forward to get the chain over the sprocket. Im not quite sure where you're running into problems, if you replaced the chain the easiest way to do it is to break the old one and then hook the old to the new with the broken link and pull the new one on that way.
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Jun 25, 2011 18:31
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Replaced the R/R (thanks to D'Ecosse on svrider) and threw a new battery in my bike, and it starts and runs perfectly now! The battery is charging as it should, so hopefully this'll finally correct my issues. Man, it's nice to be able to ride without worry. Seems like the whole time I've had my bike, I've been able to ride for 3 days, and then I couldn't ride for a week due to some issue or being out of town. Ugh.
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Jun 28, 2011 05:35
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So I upgraded the suspension on my 2001 SV650 to handle my weight and such, new springs w/emulators and oil upfront and a new shock out back. I've done about 50 miles in the last couple of days and the ride (in general) is so much better. The thing I'm wondering though is that it seems very "twitchy", more like what I would expect of a race bike. Probably 95% of my riding experience is offroad or on road with DS type bikes. I've only owned a couple road dedicated bikes. It seems to me that the bike is much more affected by cross winds and seems less stable going at higher speeds in straight lines. But as soon as you get near turns or the twisty road stuff I did today it's a fricken dream for carving. So after all that.. Is this what it's supposed to feel like or could the new suspension have taken it a little too far and I need to make a change to the geometry to slow the steering response and bring back to a little more stable feeling? I am thinking that I should put some miles on it being aware that it is just very different from the normal bikes I've owned over the last 20yrs. Then maybe in a month or two decide if it is still a little uncomfortable feeling and then make the change? I know it's kind wishywashy, just not used to this bike yet. I think the handling and light weight is making my brain think something is wrong when there isn't.
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Jun 30, 2011 00:40
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Well, which springs, which emulators, what weight oil, which rear shock, and how much do you weigh?
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Jun 30, 2011 01:06
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Did you set the sag for your weight? I swapped in stiffer springs and found I had to mess with the preload to make it feel less twitchy in corners. Edit - Just reread your post. If it feels good in corners already it may just be getting used to the change. I haven't ridden dualsports but I'm pretty used to feeing the bike get moved around by crosswinds etc on the highway, or really track rough pavement etc. Edit 2 - don't listen to me. Someone with actual suspension knowledge would be better. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jun 30, 2011 |
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Jun 30, 2011 02:25
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King Nothing posted:Well, which springs, which emulators, what weight oil, which rear shock, and how much do you weigh? 280lbs (yes I'm fat) I ride fairly agressively but not squidly. Racetech 1.0 Kg springs with 12.5 weight oil and racetech gold emulators rear shock is from Elka, their 2 way adjustable with remote resovoir set up with spring/oil also for for weight. Both Racetech sales guy and the guy from Sonicsprings came out with almost exactly the same equipment list for me. I've used both company's equipment before on other bikes so I trust them on their suggestions so far. It's current setup middle of the settings now as I get used to it. Problem is I suck at setting up suspensions. I can tear apart an engine/transmission and put it back together or rewire anything with confidence but suspensions have always been a mystery for me. Years ago I finally got to a point of knowing how an off-road or DS bike should feel and could do that pretty well but the tighter onroad stuff is baffling me so far.
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Jun 30, 2011 03:50
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GanjamonII posted:Did you set the sag for your weight? I appreaciate all suggestions, no worries. I think part of it is after I got the bike I put about 700 miles on it before I got the suspension parts in so I got used to how the stock stuff was handling with my weight and it's my "seat of the pants" feeling is screwing with me.
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Jun 30, 2011 03:53
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Can you be more descriptive than "twitchy"? Are you noticing instability in the bars or does it just steer easier than before?
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Jun 30, 2011 04:51
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Z3n posted:Can you be more descriptive than "twitchy"? Slightest change in bars or even a decent weight change on the pegs and it wants to fall into a turn. I just can't tell if it's normal or if it's too much. It's probably turning in and reacting to any adjustment faster than any bike I've owned. During the turn it's also very reactive, changing lines or coming out of it it just feels like it wants to doing things very fast. Like I said it feels, to me, how a race bike might where it's supposed to react at the slightest imput (again just my assumption from watching racers and hearing them talk about it). Even the sumo's I've ridden weren't this fast to initiate a turn. I've riden some sport turing bikes that had more of this feel than my normal bike, this is just so much more. That's why I think I am probably blowing this out of proportion in my head and just need to go put a few hundred miles on it.
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Jun 30, 2011 05:12
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What tires are you running? Tires with a steep profile can cause the bike to be very responsive to inputs. I would say it's probably pretty normal though. Being a big dude on a very undersprung bike, chances are you basically collapsed the rear suspension, causing it to steer pretty slowly. Over the next few hundred miles, I'd really encourage you to work on relaxing on the bars and gently pushing the inside handgrip to set lines and turn in. The bike is properly set for you, it should feel very responsive. Relax your outside arm, push gently with the inside, and enjoy your effortless ride up a twisty road
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Jun 30, 2011 05:18
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I was riding around today, and I noticed for the first time that the idle at lights was fluctuating. It was around 1500rpm or so, but then it'd dip real low. I thought the bike was gonna stall a few times, but it didn't quite. I'm gonna change the oil and oil filter and add coolant and clean the chain sometime this week, and I figure while I'm at it, I'll probably add some carb cleaner (figured the gas additive stuff would do). What do you guys recommend? Is there specific motorcycle carb cleaner? Also, what coolant do you use? Is regular car coolant good, or is there specific motorcycle coolant I should buy? Fangs404 fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Jul 4, 2011 |
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Jul 4, 2011 23:52
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Coolant's the same, as is the carb cleaner. I don't think the cleaner is going to get rid of the crappy idle though. You might need to sync the carbs and do a more thorough job on the clean, but let's hope the additive does its job.
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Jul 5, 2011 00:22
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KARMA! posted:Coolant's the same, as is the carb cleaner. Ugh, I have no desire to mess with the carbs. I hope the additive works. What additive would you guys recommend? The two most popular on Amazon seem to be Red Line 60103 SI-1 Fuel System Cleaner - 15 oz. and Seafoam MOTOR TREATMENT MULTI-USE -- 16 OZ.. Fangs404 fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jul 5, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 02:24
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Seafoam.
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Jul 5, 2011 02:46
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KARMA! posted:Seafoam. Sweet. Looks like you can use it to clean out the oil lines too (from http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=114717): svscorcher00 posted:Seafoam is a great product ! If it was me I would add about 4 ozs to a tank of fuel and run that thru. This will clean out the carbs and jets.
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Jul 5, 2011 03:04
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Fangs404 posted:Also, what coolant do you use? Is regular car coolant good, or is there specific motorcycle coolant I should buy? If you have a Honda motorcycle shop nearby they should have Pro Honda HP 50/50 coolant for about $6 a bottle. http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/product/PRO-HONDA-HP-COOLANT-5050-PREMIX-QUART/?id=110587 Run it for many months and quite a few miles with no issues. Top quality stuff.
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Jul 5, 2011 03:50
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Fangs404 posted:Also, what coolant do you use? Is regular car coolant good, or is there specific motorcycle coolant I should buy? I (and a lot of other folks I know) have been using Prestone Extended Life silicate free. Drain and flush the system, refill, go ride. http://www.amazon.com/Prestone-Antifreeze-Coolant-Af2100-Rediluted/dp/B000VDM0RC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1309880761&sr=1-2 Cheap, and available at Walmart and most auto parts stores.
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Jul 5, 2011 16:55
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Raven457 posted:I (and a lot of other folks I know) have been using Prestone Extended Life silicate free. Drain and flush the system, refill, go ride. Awesome. This is my next maintenance task. Might do it in a couple weeks. Just changed the oil, filter, clean and lubed the chain, and added Seafoam to the gas. Also noticed my idle was around 900rpm, so I upped it to 1300rpm. Between all of that, I hope my idle issues will be gone. Gonna go riding now! [edit] Thanks for the Seafoam recommendation, KARMA! I don't know if that's what did it or possibly upping my idle speed, but either way, my idle issues seem to be gone! Doing a bunch of maintenance and then going for a ride is one of the most rewarding/manly feelings. Fangs404 fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jul 6, 2011 |
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Jul 5, 2011 19:38
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Fangs404 posted:Sweet. Looks like you can use it to clean out the oil lines too (from http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=114717): How does that work, do you put it in a round of oil to use as sort of a flush for 100 miles or something?
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Jul 6, 2011 02:51
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clutchpuck posted:How does that work, do you put it in a round of oil to use as sort of a flush for 100 miles or something? The guy on svrider said put about 4oz in and ride it around for 5-10 mins just before an oil change. I don't think you wanna leave it in there super long.
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Jul 6, 2011 03:16
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So I've decided that I'm gonna go ahead and clean my carbs (hopefully this weekend). Is there anything I need besides carb cleaner, a bucket, and tools? What carb cleaner do you guys recommend? I've heard of cleaners where you basically just remove all the rubber and then soak the carbs in a bucket of cleaner for a few hours and then you're good to go, but I don't know if that's best.
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Jul 15, 2011 05:10
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http://www.traxxion.com/SV650Drop-InDamperRodKit.aspx Ordered this through my local motorcycle shop today and I'll be installing a rear shock from a ZX-10 next weekend. A couple weeks from now my bike's gonna get way more awesome.
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Jul 15, 2011 05:16
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Fangs404 posted:So I've decided that I'm gonna go ahead and clean my carbs (hopefully this weekend). Is there anything I need besides carb cleaner, a bucket, and tools? What carb cleaner do you guys recommend? I've heard of cleaners where you basically just remove all the rubber and then soak the carbs in a bucket of cleaner for a few hours and then you're good to go, but I don't know if that's best. Remove each of the jets and the a/f screws and clean them, as well as squirting out the passages with carb cleaner. If you don't run a piece of wire through the jets, you may as well have not cleaned the carbs. I typically just snip a piece of wire off of a wire brush, or you can use an old small guitar string. After you run the wire through the jet, hold both ends of the wire and rub it up and down on your pant leg to clean the varnish out of the inside. You should be able to see clearly through the jets. Some people will whine that this can increase the size of the hole in the jet, but unless you're the loving Hulk, there's no way you can mash brass to the point that it deforms significantly by running a wire through it and rubbing it on your pant leg.
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Jul 15, 2011 23:20
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Z3n posted:Remove each of the jets and the a/f screws and clean them, as well as squirting out the passages with carb cleaner. Oh, awesome, this is a great idea. 2 more quick questions: 1. How long does the entire process usually take for a noob (getting to the carb, removing it, cleaning it, and putting it back)? 2. I was watching a DIY video on YT about cleaning carbs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exa467_eoXw - I watched all 3 parts), and it looks simple enough. The thing that worries me a little, though, is in the 3rd video, he was talking about how the pilot jet needs to be tightened exactly to the right depth (what he did is just screw it all the way down and then unscrew 2 full turns). I'm looking at my Haynes manual, and I don't see how many turns I should use. Do you guys know offhand?
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Jul 16, 2011 00:23
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In case anyone's curious, I'm selling my 1st gen wheel with a bent lip here.
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Jul 21, 2011 02:22
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Fangs404 posted:Oh, awesome, this is a great idea. 2 more quick questions: I believe it's 2.5 turns out. You bottom it very lightly, and then unscrew it 2.5 turns. DO NOT BOTTOM IT HARD. I'd say you're going to need to spend at least an afternoon doing it. Especially if you want to take your time and do it right. Take it slow, take lots of pictures, label the stuff you remove. I recommend removing the choke cable at the handlebars rather than from the carbs, as they're often a pain in the rear end to remove. You can also just remove the carbs and flip them up side down without removing most of the cables if you're comfortable working on them over the bike. Shove a rag down each of the intakes as well so you don't drop anything down there. Good luck! Be methodical and you'll do fine
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Jul 21, 2011 02:30
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Z3n posted:I believe it's 2.5 turns out. Perfect, thanks a lot! Oh, and 1 other question. Some people mention replacing O-rings and gaskets and stuff. Is that necessary? If so, what should I buy?
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Jul 21, 2011 03:18
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If they were running recently, you shouldn't need to replace anything.
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Jul 21, 2011 05:31
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Z3n posted:If they were running recently, you shouldn't need to replace anything. Perfect! Thanks a lot.
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Jul 21, 2011 06:34
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So, the last week my SV has been a little bitchy recently. We're in the middle of a heatwave (just like everywhere in the country) and it's been 100F+ (about 120F with the heat index taken into account) every day. Two times now my bike has just turned off while riding it. Once I was about 20 minutes into a ride on the freeway and the second time was early this morning (about 8am, so it wasn't blazing hot yet) about 5 minutes into my commute. Both times it has happened I haven't been on the throttle at all and have just been coasting, and when I tried to turn it back on it wouldn't idle high enough to prevent from immediately dying again. If I crank the throttle when I turned it back on and had it rev to about 4-5k RPMs, though, it'd drop back down to 1.3k RPMs at idle and perform just fine. I haven't had it happen multiple times in a trip, and it doesn't seem to do it with any regularity. 
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Jul 23, 2011 22:46
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This may be a dumb question, but how important is the brake lever return spring on the SV? I installed riser plates this morning and found that the tab on the back of the rearset plate which is meant to anchor the spring gets in the way of the riser plate which limits it to a max of a 1/2" rise over stock. The spring was actually missing when I went to install the riser, and I never noticed - the brake lever goes back by itself just fine without it. So I'm thinking that in order to get more rise out of the riser plates, I need to grind that tab off, which would prevent me from reattaching a replacement spring.
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Jul 23, 2011 23:08
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I'm about to buy a 13k-mile 2005 SV650 from a good friend of mine, but on the way to my house yesterday afternoon, he lowsided it on an unexpected patch of gravel.  Aside from his ankle, all is just dandy so he's on my couch playing Forza. Got a chance to put the bike on the lift today, and we've tallied up the following:Mechanical Radiator Bars Clutch & front brake levers, mirrors, etc. Cosmetic Frame sliders (did a good job, at least!) Tank (find a used one, hopefully...) Headlight trim & bucket Front signal lenses (also want to get rid of impossible-to-see plate mount and ridiculous rear shaved markers, replacing them with the biggest, brightest stalks available) I'm going to check BikeBandit and a large shop for OEM prices, but is there anything non-OE that would make a marked improvement? Radiator guards, etc. Coming from the world of KLRs, I'm in the dark. At any rate, I definitely need to find a taller/wider set of bars since I'm 6'4"ish, but I doubt Rental Desert Talls will bolt up... the shifter and rear brake levers are angled far too high for my awkward stature as well. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Jul 24, 2011 |
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Jul 24, 2011 21:21
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OneOverZero posted:I'm about to buy a 13k-mile 2005 SV650 from a good friend of mine, but on the way to my house yesterday afternoon, he lowsided it on an unexpected patch of gravel. You might check svrider's for sale section. A ton of people part out busted bikes, and you might be able to find some good deals on parts you need.
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Jul 24, 2011 22:12
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Well, gently caress. I took my bike out for a long ride today (which was probably stupid given the symptoms described in my earlier post) and after about 2 hours it died going through a turn. It lost all RPMs and the throttle wouldn't do anything, and then finally stalled out. I was able to get it started once and rev it, but it died immediately when I let off the throttle, and now it won't even start (it'll turn indefinitely, though). I ended up leaving it in an old couple's driveway out in the country where it died; and I'll have the local shop pick it up tomorrow, I guess. drat .
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Jul 25, 2011 01:30
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