|
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=18 here is the article tire rack has RE: tread depth.
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 15:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 22:55 |
|
|
Thorpe posted:Just sold my 1991 honda civic I've had for 5 years, and my DGM wrx hatchback should arrive at the dealer this Thursday. I never thought if buy a new car. So god drat excited/nervous. I never thought I would buy a new car either, but these stupid cars seem to hold their values pretty well, even though they typically seem abused.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 15:53
|
|
|
So the outback sport I linked on the previous page is a 2.5, and hasn't had any work done on the head gaskets. Is this enough of a reason to run away? Timing belt was done at 180K km (112K miles) and he has receipts for all the parts he says he installed in the add, though they were all installed by him. I'm going to set up a test drive, just want to make sure it's worth it first as he's an hour away from me.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 16:35
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:So the outback sport I linked on the previous page is a 2.5, and hasn't had any work done on the head gaskets. Is this enough of a reason to run away? Timing belt was done at 180K km (112K miles) and he has receipts for all the parts he says he installed in the add, though they were all installed by him. Definitely not, some head gaskets actually don't fail, and even if they do, as long as you don't let it overheat and do damage, it's not a huge problem. It's not cheap, but it's not crazy. Any car with mileage that high is likely to need maintenance as costs around that level. You can even do it yourself if you want a project.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 16:38
|
|
|
I guess the real question is how common a failure is it? Also, from what I'm reading, replacing the head gasket means removing the engine from the car. I'm not sure I'm comfortable doing that on my own, but I can drive the miata if I need to take the time to do it myself / learn to do it.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 16:56
|
|
|
The head gaskets on mine held up til 260k, and that's with overheating at least 3 times. Pulling the engine out of a Subaru is really easy as long as you have a good flat work space and hoist/stand. I've heard of people able to have them out in 45min from the time the car rolled into the bay.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 17:09
|
|
|
It's common, but it's common on one with 75k on it too, so it's not really more of a concern on that one than any other older Subaru you will buy. The process is fairly well documented in several places (check out rs25.com, I believe it has a step by step). It's not trivial, but it's doable, and you can rent hoists/stands and such if you can't find a buddy with the equipment. I think most Subaru shops will also do the whole thing for like $600 at this point? jamal can probably give better estimates there. I also don't know Canadia well, so YMMV. Maybe check with your local Subaru shop (not dealer) on pricing?
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 17:10
|
|
|
Shade tree guys cost at least 800. DOHC you have to remove the cams to get to the head bolts and re-timing is trickier. SOHC is easier as you can just pop the heads off and retime it without worry. It is best to remove the engine and do it on a stand regardless, but SOHC can be annoyingly done in car. They all leak headgaskets, the DOHC leak internally and nuke the already weak bearings, vs SOHC leak external and it is fine as long as you don't overheat it. I'd still look for a 2.2 car that hasn't been hosed with.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 17:21
|
|
|
My SOHC at 280,000km seems to have an external leak but not a substantial one.Slow is Fast posted:Shade tree guys cost at least 800. One of the clusterfuckiest cars I ever saw was an Outback where they had done one side for $330, in the car, with blue RTV gooped between the non-MLS head gasket and the crankcase. The receipt was written on the back of a napkin from the pizza place across the street from the shadetree. It didn't hold. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Feb 18, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 18:28
|
|
|
A 2.2 is the preference, but at this point there are zero 2.2's within a 5 hour drive that aren't being sold for parts or are north of 400k km's. The OBS seller decided to keep it, but I'm taking a look at this tomorrow: http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2002-Subaru-Impreza-2-5TS-Wagon-W0QQAdIdZ566814099 It was bought at auction, so no maintenance history. I'd plan on doing the timing belt immediately, along with coolant flush, spark plugs/wires, general maintenance etc. From the pictures it looks pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 18:32
|
|
|
They stopped making 2.2s in 01 so anything with one of those is going to be a pretty old car. I would just accept that leaking headgaskets are a possibility. With newer 00+ sohc cars they can be changed in the car, but you have to make sure to get MLS gaskets. It seems to happen before 150k miles.
|
|
#
?
Feb 18, 2014 19:16
|
|
|
Apparently the new STi will still have UEL headers, unlike the new WRX: http://www.drivingsports.com/v2/2015-subaru-wrx-sti-first-drive/ (3:55) Also, NERBERGREENG Naked Bear fucked around with this message at 10:57 on Feb 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 10:54
|
|
|
Finally got my WRX - a stock 2002 wagon with 115k, and no rust whatsoever (it was a California car until pretty recently,) which is basically impossible to find in Massachusetts. I'm picking it up this morning, I can't wait.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 13:17
|
|
|
defiantgiant posted:Finally got my WRX - a stock 2002 wagon with 115k, and no rust whatsoever (it was a California car until pretty recently,) which is basically impossible to find in Massachusetts. I'm picking it up this morning, I can't wait. That's awesome! Post up some pics when you get it. Just curious - where'd you pick it up? I'm also in MA.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 13:21
|
|
|
JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Apparently the new STi will still have UEL headers, unlike the new WRX: http://www.drivingsports.com/v2/2015-subaru-wrx-sti-first-drive/ (3:55) That's because it's using an EJ257. We've complained about this already.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 13:38
|
|
|
BoyBlunder posted:That's awesome! Post up some pics when you get it. Definitely will - I bought it from a guy in Marblehead (which is an added plus, since every Boston car I went to look at needed struts, shocks, etc. thanks to the godawful roads.)
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 14:19
|
|
|
When I turn the wheel all the way to the side and drive in a slow circle, I get a bit of a hopping feeling. Is the VC on my center diff hosed? If this only happens in slow speed tight turns, what other problems will it cause in normal driving? Edit: It's an '06 Outback XT, but only has 50k on it. Hillridge fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Feb 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 16:09
|
|
|
Hillridge posted:When I turn the wheel all the way to the side and drive in a slow circle, I get a bit of a hopping feeling. Is the VC on my center diff hosed? If this only happens in slow speed tight turns, what other problems will it cause in normal driving? I'm assuming it's a manual transmission? Sounds like a bad center diff. If you're a reasonably competent shade tree mechanic you can do it yourself. It's still gonna cost a pretty penny for a new one. ~500 last I checked. The issue with a cooked VC is that, even though it only hops in tight turns, you're putting stress on other drivetrain components at all times. Bad VC's also have a habit of losing parts due to thermal expansion which then get chewed up by the transfer case. This is what happened in my old RS transmission.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 16:22
|
|
|
It's a 5EAT. The way I understand it, these fail as locked right? So it's the equivalent of driving a 4x4 in 4WD all the time? Is there a way to conclusively test it so I can rule out other things like CV joints? I have a lift and can definitely do the work myself, but I don't want to throw money at the wrong problem. Also, if it's so sensitive that it's going to die in less than 50k miles, I may even think of selling the car while it still has decent value and picking up something more reliable.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 16:52
|
|
|
The 4EAT's duty solenoids fail and cause basically the same problem as the 5MT viscous centre diff, if I'm not mistaken. I don't know about the 5EAT but I would assume they're mostly the same.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 16:58
|
|
|
Hillridge posted:It's a 5EAT. That's right, they fail locked. Take the car for enough of a drive to illicit the hopping behavior. Get it up in the air and lock the e-brake. If you and a friend can turn the front wheels, then it's probably not the VC. If you can also somehow secure one front wheel, then you can perform the test yourself. Also, I've never seen a CV fail that didn't have a tear in the boot, so that's something easy to check. As far as your disgust at encountering the problem at 50k. It shouldn't happen. Like others discussed earlier, it's very likely that the vehicle had different sized tires mounted. 6/32's and 9/32's is right on the edge of what's tolerable. Are you the only owner? If the PO ran a spare for any length of time, that would easily have been enough to do it in. Edit, oh poo poo, just read that it was an auto. They don't have VC's. I'll keep the above post for folks that might have 5MT's dayman fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Feb 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 16:59
|
|
|
Ha, is no VC a good or bad thing? What do the autos use? Edit: To answer my second question, scroll down to the "ENGINE TORQUE DISTRIBUTION – DIRECTING THE FLOW OF POWER" section here: http://drive2.subaru.com/Win09/Win09_ItsWhatMakes.htm Hillridge fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Feb 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 17:16
|
|
|
Hillridge posted:Ha, is no VC a good or bad thing? What do the autos use? Well it's good in that it's not your problem. It's bad in that...it's not your problem. Rule out the CV's first, they're very easy to check.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 17:27
|
|
|
Is some hop normal just due to the nature of the AWD and rear viscous LSD? It's not excessive, and I hadn't really noticed an issue. I went looking for problems after reading about the VC (which I don't have) and seeing the main causes for failure are mismatched tires (which I slightly have) and doughnuts (which I am often guilty of, though just on snow/ice, never pavement).
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 17:34
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Your cam seal just poo poo. Ahahaha yep  Also, I couldn't find a c-clamp to compress the tensioner so I used what I had on hand. Is this a mechanic(al) failure?  E: wrong thread but I'll leave it. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Feb 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 17:36
|
|
|
Does your Outback have VTD or the standard clutch pack deal? I would have a Subaru mechanic drive it and see if he notices anything wrong. There shouldn't be a whole lot of binding doing slow figure eights in a parking lot, especially with transfer clutches. There are 4 different systems. The viscous coupling is the limited slip device in most manual transmission cars, and all four wheels are driven continuously and are given equal torque until there is a speed difference between the front and rear wheels. When that happens the fluid heats up and attempts to match the front and rear wheel speeds. I'm not sure what the maximum torque capacity is, but it is supposed to create 4kg-m of resistance per 200rpm. The nice thing about a viscous coupling is that all four wheels are mechanically driven all the time. The bad thing about a viscous coupling is the viscous coupling. When they get really hot the plates inside expand enough to fully lock the diff So sometimes a car will act like truck in 4wd. Other times they just don't have any limited slip capability. Other times they spit the snap ring off. The most common system, which I consider the worst, is found in most automatics. It uses a multi-plate clutch to send power to the rear wheels, so most of the time it is a front wheel drive car. In worst case conditions with the front on ice and the rear on pavement, the torque split is 100% front minus whatever the clutches can send rearward. I don't know the exact number but I don't think it is very much. The nice thing is that the system does not react only to wheel speed, but to throttle position and steering and stuff too, so it proactively sends power to the rear wheels. This means you usually don't have the front wheels spin before the clutches start working like on a lot of fwd-based systems. The common failure on these is the solenoid that activates the clutches, although you can also fry the plates so the awd doesn't work. The other two are VTD and DCCD. These use a mechanical system with a real differential like the 5mts but have computer controlled lockup instead of a viscous coupling. They are better and can transfer more torque to either end- close to 100%.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 18:32
|
|
|
According to this it should have the VTD: http://www.topspeed.com/cars/subaru/2006-subaru-outback-ar3052.html I think that actually has a 45/55 front/rear split under normal driving.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 19:34
|
|
|
I was watching Jamal's video on timing belts for DOHC a few weeks ago and I was wondering "why does he have to rotate the Intake cam on the driver's side clockwise only and Exhaust cam counterclockwise only?" So I took at look at the heads I have out and it turns out that when the intake cam is in its' free floating position, the first valves it opens are on Cylinder #4. The Exhaust cam opens the valves on Cylinder #4 when rotating clockwise, so going the opposite way results in the Valves for #2 opening instead. Thus, I learned something today. daslog fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Feb 19, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 20:53
|
|
|
Technically you could turn the intake around the other way as long as all the exhaust valves are closed. That is the safest way to do it and avoid valve to valve contact.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 21:13
|
|
|
I just rotated them the shortest way around to get them back to the timed marks, which happened to be clockwise for the top and counterclockwise for the bottom. That being said, the intake timing gear popped "over" the spring tension and I had to rotate it counterclockwise to get it back up, but I went really slowly and tried to feel for any additional resistance (which probably counts for nothing when you're already pushing against valve spring tension). Getting the belt back on afterwards with the proper timing was a bitch and a half, even after watching every DOHC video I could find on YouTube.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 21:59
|
|
|
If you have the intake or exhaust cam in place and then rotate the other all the way around the valves will hit each other.
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 22:16
|
|
|
defiantgiant posted:Finally got my WRX - a stock 2002 wagon with 115k, and no rust whatsoever (it was a California car until pretty recently,) which is basically impossible to find in Massachusetts. I'm picking it up this morning, I can't wait. Wonderful! I had a hard time finding my 75K sedan last year, but gems pop up when you search MA Craigslist everyday for months and months. Pics!
|
|
#
?
Feb 19, 2014 22:58
|
|
|
This came in pretty quickly.  It doesn't fit the USDM Console box.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 00:51
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:http://ottawa.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-2002-Subaru-Impreza-2-5TS-Wagon-W0QQAdIdZ566814099 Back from looking at this. Overall, I was very impressed. Interior is in amazing shape for a car with ~233K Km's on it. From what I could tell, the head gaskets weren't leaking. Issues: -Hatch struts don't hold the hood up. -Torn boot on the front passenger axle. -Rust on both the passenger & driver sides under the doors. It's through the outer skin but not the inner, and they offered to fix if I don't care too much about how it looks (and I don't. It's a beater.) -Check engine light came on right away. Code was for a rear O2 sensor. "poo poo we dropped the exhaust to change the clutch, I think I forgot to plug it in." Took a look, the wires were unpluged.  They're providing an emissions test with the car, which in Ontario means the check engine light can't be on, so I'm not concerned about this one. There were no other codes stored.-No maintenance history, so I'm doing timing belt / fluids etc relatively soon. I took a look at the belts I could see and didn't notice any cracking & they didn't seem dried out. The Rust:  The good: -I believe they did the clutch. It grabs hard, no signs of slipping. -All tires had even wear patterns, and had approximately the same tread depth remaining. -Interior in fantastic shape. -No rust underneath, the two spots listed above were all there was. -No clunking, weird feeling on turning, alignment is good, doesn't pull under hard braking, ABS engages without issue. -The struts seem like they're in good shape. -It seems like the AC is working, though that's hard to test in winter. I cranked the heat with the air on recirc, then switched to ac once it was toasty, and it felt like the compressor engaged & it was blowing cold pretty quick. -When I got back from the test drive I did a few tight circles in either direction and didn't notice any binding / hopping / issues. -Holy poo poo it's quiet compared to a miata with a hard top. Questions: -The shifter felt good, if a bit vague. Is this normal? I'm used to a miata and I don't expect it to feel like that, but it's really the only stick I have any experience with. No issues going into any gear. -The clutch engagement point is very close to the floor. It's definitely disengaging 100%, is this just an adjustment thing or an I haven't driven a lot of stick cars other than the miata thing? -Can I put off the axle replacement for a month or two until it warms up? Googling makes me relatively confident I can change the axle in a few hours, I'd just prefer not to do so in the freezing cold. Should I be replacing the axles in pairs? Overall my impression is that someone traded this in when the clutch was starting to go, and that it's been maintained well up to that point. I'm going to try and get it for around $1800 including the safety, unless there's a reason I should run away.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 02:45
|
|
|
Shifter, the linkages could have died, driveway fix if it's a problem for you. Only an issue really when it becomes difficult to select gears. Low clutch engagement point, I'm not an expert however the less worn your clutch the earlier it will engage, this translates into it engaging early in the throw of the pedal and isn't adjustable as far as I know. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Feb 20, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 03:00
|
|
|
There's some minor adjustment (a threaded rod) but it's designed to adjust for pedal free-play, of which there should be about an inch. I wouldn't adjust it to change the clutch feel. Hatch struts are a 5 minute fix and about $30 in parts from your nearby NAPA. Make sure if they do repair those rockers that they throw in POR15 or internal frame coating or something or it will rust out from the inside. Then treat the exterior with Fluid Film or some other rust prevention agent every fall. Moisture gets trapped in some of the spot welds in the rear quarter/rocker area and eats out the metal. Axle boot needs to get taken care of ASAP because you can grenade a CV joint using only a surprisingly small amount of dirt, but if you're planning on replacing the whole axle anyway you can probably keep driving on it for a few months with a ziptie over the boot to keep what's left in there sealed up. Replace with a Cardone new axle, not reman poo poo. You can replace a single axle at a time. Shifters in Subarus feel generally pretty vague compared to Miatas especially at high mileage; you can do some linkage bushings, mount upgrades, etc to make them feel snappier. Welcome to Subaru land. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Feb 20, 2014 |
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 03:08
|
|
|
Sounds good! I'm not too worried about the shifter feel, I found the gears without issue, just wanting to make sure that it wasn't a sign of bad things to come. The clutch is hard to describe, but thinking about it it's probably just different. It felt good, the engagement point was just different than I'm used to. Rockauto has the cardone axles for like $55, so I'd just do that because I don't know how long the boot has been torn for & how much damage has been done. Replace it & forget it at that price.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 03:24
|
|
|
Yeah. The Cardones also come with a fresh 32mm axle nut and roll pin which is always handy, because sometimes you're like me and buy a Subaru with half of an axle pin holding the right front side of the car into the tranny. Plus, RockAuto discount codes and magnets.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 03:25
|
|
|
We agreed on a price, little more than I wanted but not much. Going back tonight to put a deposit down so they'll fix the rust and certify it, and also taking a good long look at it inside on a lift, rather than crawling around on the ground trying to see.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 21:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 22:55 |
|
|
For reference, I paid $2500 for my beat up rusty miled out 03 TS in AB with a fresh clutch and t-belt. It was still the cheapest GD runner in the province (and has been for the entire winter). Subtract about 5% for the AB -> ON market adjustment and I'd say you still came out pretty well, especially if it involves rust repair. I wish auctions worked better here. Good luck with your second inspection.
|
|
#
?
Feb 20, 2014 21:15
|
|