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CommonShore posted:I'm just getting Octoprint fired up myself! I forgot to buy a mini usb though and they're realllly hard to find at a decent price aside from on Amazon eBay has some good options, I managed to get a pair of short, right angle mini-usb from an eBay seller. If you don't want short/right angle, Monoprice is cheap and has some options. Octoprint is the best.
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Feb 11, 2020 14:24
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I scored one from a random rear end box of discarded cables at work 
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Feb 11, 2020 19:48
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Octoprint: never leave G28 without it. I was not aware foosel was on here, thank you for your hard work and dedication, it's been a very helpful tool from day 1 of my 3D printing journey.
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Feb 12, 2020 01:00
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Can anyone advise on what to do with the extruder gear on my wanhao i3 slipping? I had a few prints just stop extruding on me, and I thought it was snags in the filament. But then I saw online that's that's not really possible unless it's you're sloppy with the end. Today I finally caught it happening really good at the start of a print. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvzyPeBadek (Sorry for the heavy breathing I was checking it between lifts.) Odd thing is that it did extrude a bit after I stopped the print before it started slipping again. But maybe that's because it retracted a bit when I hit stop. Is there something I should look to adjust or am I looking at replacing parts?
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Feb 12, 2020 04:39
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When you took the filament out of the extruder, was it chewed all to hell from the gear? Can you manually push filament through the hotend while it's up to temp? That sounds more like a partial hotend clog.
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Feb 12, 2020 04:57
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itskage posted:Can anyone advise on what to do with the extruder gear on my wanhao i3 slipping? So there's a few things to check. The first is for a partial clog. I usually clear those by doing a cold pull, where you heat up the hotend to 250 C and then pull the filament out real hard when it cools down a bit: https://www.filamentone.com/blogs/how-to/how-to-clean-your-nozzle-cold-pull-method PLA isn't the best filament for that, because it's kind of brittle and sometimes breaks when you try to cold pull, but if it's what you have in there, then that's what to start with. Nylon is a lot better but you have to get it to 240C+ just to extrude, then even after the cold pull there's a chance that a little stays in there. If the PLA breaks off or cold pulls aren't working then you can disassemble the hotend and attempt to clear the heatbreak tube. It's kind of a pain in the rear end but not too difficult, just a little time consuming. Sometimes it's also just as easy and replacing the nozzle or heating the hotend up to 250 and just pushing as much through as you can until you can feed something else through. If all else fails often a nozzle change will get the partial clog out, but it shouldn't be necessary in most cases if you can manage a clean cold pull. edit: I've also had filament stop extruding on my maker select when I had heat creep which is unlikely unless you assemble the hotend a little wrong (put the nozzle into the heater block before the tube, not the other way around), and also when I wore down the teeth on my extruder wheel with a lot of carbon fiber prints. I bought a new gear for that.
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Feb 12, 2020 06:02
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Yeah I thought it could be clogging or my PTFE getting junked up, so I already replaced two nozzles and the PTFE tube. When that didn't work I tried an all metal hot end kit which is what's on it now. But same issue.Dr. Fishopolis posted:When you took the filament out of the extruder, was it chewed all to hell from the gear? Can you manually push filament through the hotend while it's up to temp? That sounds more like a partial hotend clog. I didn't pull it out yet. Can try tomorrow. But it does push through by hand. That's what I am doing in the video when I put two fingats on it. After that it flows again.
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Feb 12, 2020 07:19
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I have some Warhammer Stormcast Eternals. They are great models, except for the helmets, which I absolutely loathe - dumb, fat C3PO looking things. I'm looking for replacement helmets to print; Any kind of fully enclosed, plate mail helmet in any style. Historical or fantasy, anything. I'm totally willing to buy models to yank the helmets off them. Any suggestions? I spent about an hour trawling the internet yesterday and found almost nothing.
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Feb 12, 2020 10:58
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https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/games/tabletop-wargaming?tag=head has paid options https://www.turbosquid.com/3d-model/free/head if you want to go cheap :v https://www.thingiverse.com/search?sort=relevant&q=heads&type=things&dwh=915e43cdfb05475
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Feb 12, 2020 11:06
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Also, if you buy a model on Heroforge you can download the stl and there's a lot of head outfit options. When you add to cart you pick download instead of a material to get the stl. It's not that cheap (the one I tried was $7.99) but I figured it was worth a mention: https://www.heroforge.com/ Miguel Zavala has been making 3d models based on D&D and uploading them to shapeways, although it's more like he's making the whole monster manual than characters. Some armor looking heads but more monsters, really: https://www.shapeways.com/designer/mz4250/creations There's like 38 pages of stuff and I didn't look at them all but here's a couple with helmets or interesting heads I saw when browsing: https://www.shapeways.com/product/LWXRYPGE6/helmed-heavy-fighter https://www.shapeways.com/product/MFJPRD32J/fire-elemental-myrmidon-one-piece cults3d search for armor has a lot of helmets, many would need to be resized: https://cults3d.com/en/search?q=armor Make them saurons: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/sauron-armor-helmet There's probably a lot more resources but now maybe you have too many options.
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Feb 12, 2020 11:45
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itskage posted:Yeah I thought it could be clogging or my PTFE getting junked up, so I already replaced two nozzles and the PTFE tube. When that didn't work I tried an all metal hot end kit which is what's on it now. But same issue. What are your retraction settings? Retracting too fast with an all metal hotend is a guaranteed clog, you might have replaced one problem with another. e: assuming your extruder gear is actually chewing up the filament. If it's not, that's the problem, but that clunking does not sound like an extruder problem to me.
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Feb 12, 2020 16:54
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Crawling along with Spyker Kat 2X assembly, laying out the hull bottom and side pieces for a sense of size: Everything's printed and all 10 million holes have been drilled into every part. My floor is permanently covered in plastic shavings. I wanna say it took about 20kg of PETG to print, I didn't keep very good track of filament. Good money saved vs purchasing the kit: ~$400 of plastic vs $1100 for the kit). You can see the one plate where I started with the end of a spool of red and then finished it in black. I sourced the hardware myself which has been a fuckin' ordeal and ended up much more expensive than I anticipated. There are 47 different types of hardware you need between 2 and 200 of each; after buying boxes of 50 or 100 for all the things I only needed 10 of it's added up to about $430 (vs $520 for the hardware kit). Of course If I wanted to make another one of these my hardware cost would be significantly reduced due to the over-order. I still need to cut out the transmission plates from aluminum which I'll hopefully get done this weekend. I've made no provisions to print his snowblower, since I have an electric snowblower of similar size that is currently unused and I think I'm going to frankenstein it onto the front of this bastard.
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Feb 13, 2020 02:09
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Hah nice!, almost same place with my 1X: Box'o'parts  Last print job:  Also same story with the hardware. Did one order from McMaster, thinking I could source the rest locally...wrong!. Ended up costing me $110 in hardware vs $100 for the kit, but again, I now have lots of screws/bolts for other projects. Mine will get an autopilot, GPS, fpv camera (possibly HD) and then later an automatic airsoft gun (maybe mounted on a gimbal). I really want to play with openCV and make the gun auto-track too, but doubt I'll ever find the time for that. Used 2 spools of PETG for the chassis. Printing tires and track in nylon, which will probably eat a 1lbs spool.
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Feb 13, 2020 02:34
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While I'd love to know what you folks are doing with those robots, I'm afraid the answer will be compelling enough to send me down the rabbit hole 
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Feb 13, 2020 02:43
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The 1x is a really fun vehicle. I put FPV on the one for my kid and it's fun. Headlights and tailights are must-do and relatively cheap: Your parts look great. I was very surprised at how rigid and strong the chassis tub became after its basic parts were all screwed together. I did blue and orange on ours:  In case you haven't seen it yet: Ryan did like three fuckin versions of the 1x transmission, and the only documentation is by chasing links in the description to the assembly video where it says 'check out the v2 transmission' and so forth. Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 02:46
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:While I'd love to know what you folks are doing with those robots, I'm afraid the answer will be compelling enough to send me down the rabbit hole (the answer is dicking around in the back yard)
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Feb 13, 2020 02:47
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Does 400 hours of indoor work to create 2 hours a week of r/c snowblowing qualify one for "outdoorsman"ship?
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Feb 13, 2020 02:51
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I'm trying to print something with detail on the top, but i get this. I can't even guess what the problem is to google it. I've reduced extrusion. I'm printing at 40, 200 degrees, 5% infill. Any pointers what the cause could be?
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Feb 13, 2020 07:39
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I'd think the details you want to print aren't tall enough relative to the flat surface on the model (in the Z-axis direction) because I'd be hosed if I can figure out what you're trying to do there. I mean, I see the distortions in the surface but it looks like you want some kind of boss/relief detail and they aren't tall enough to be visible with the size of the nozzle you're using.
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Feb 13, 2020 12:02
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One last question before I decide to pull the trigger on a 3D printer, some articles on the monoprice voxel mention something about having to use proprietary filament, while most don't mention that, and monoprice's own website just lists "ABS, PLA" filaments. As long as it's the correct size, any ABS or PLA filament should work, correct? With the only issue being if it can fit into the spool holder?
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Feb 13, 2020 16:35
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Fusion360 now does PCB design. I haven't touched PCB stuff in about 15 years so not sure how it compares to Eagle and the likes. https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/january-27-2020-product-update-whats-new/
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Feb 13, 2020 16:48
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Randalor posted:One last question before I decide to pull the trigger on a 3D printer, some articles on the monoprice voxel mention something about having to use proprietary filament, while most don't mention that, and monoprice's own website just lists "ABS, PLA" filaments. As long as it's the correct size, any ABS or PLA filament should work, correct? With the only issue being if it can fit into the spool holder? Any 1.75 filament should work, but it does require a closed-source, proprietary slicer. Apparently it's a pretty good slicer, but no Cura for you, and you're at the mercy of Flashforge for support. It's a great price for an enclosed, pre-built printer with most of the functionality of octoprint already built in though. e: keep in mind though, 150mm cubed is a small build area. e: oh wait I'm wrong, it uses a weird half-sized spool unless you leave the little door open and make your own spool holder. Not the biggest deal in the world, but way less than ideal. Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 16:52
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Oh okay, so any filament is fine as long as it's the right material. Can the spools be reused? I mean, "half-sized spools" isn't an issue if I can just buy a large spool and refill the smaller spools as needed. Any recommendations on what brands are good and which I should avoid like the plague for filaments?
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Feb 13, 2020 17:08
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You do not want to refill spools. It fuckin sucks.
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Feb 13, 2020 17:26
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Sockser posted:You do not want to refill spools. It fuckin sucks. It's easy if you have a lathe
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Feb 13, 2020 17:32
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Sagebrush posted:It's easy if you have a lathe Go oooooon. We still have my late dad's industrial lathe in the workshop (mostly because said workshop is in the basement, we're STILL trying to figure out how the hell he got it in there in the first place, and there was always the offhand chance we would want a lathe with how my wife flits from craft project to craft project, I'm not ruling out "I decided to try woodworking" to come up)
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Feb 13, 2020 17:43
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Even if you use a drill or a lathe, respooling PLA is a loving nightmare. It really, really wants to keep its shape and if you persuade it too much it'll snap right quick.
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Feb 13, 2020 17:53
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Modifying the printer once (or buying a different one that takes normal spools) will be a great deal less hassle than frequently respooling filament. Setting barriers to convenience like that is a great way to ensure you'll never bother using your printer (Does it even need to be modified? Is it possible to just leave the side hatch open and set a freestanding spool holder next to it?)
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Feb 13, 2020 18:36
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People have said that you can just use an an exterior spool holder, so I'll probably go that route then.
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Feb 13, 2020 18:39
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Buy an ender 3 instead of the Voxel
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Feb 13, 2020 18:46
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Respooling filament is some drive 40 minutes out of your way to get gas 3 cents cheaper a gallon energy
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Feb 13, 2020 18:47
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Yooper posted:Fusion360 now does PCB design. I haven't touched PCB stuff in about 15 years so not sure how it compares to Eagle and the likes. It IS eagle I had a bash at a really basic 2 layer design which should be on its way to my from JLCPCB. If it works as it should I’ll call it easy to use. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 19:42
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Sockser posted:Buy There's no reason to get the Voxel.
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Feb 13, 2020 20:16
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Gonna recommend against buying any Monoprice printers at this point -- at least, don't get anything based on a Flashforge from MP. I picked up an MP Inventor (rebadged FlashForge Inventor). Turns out they've killed support for it to the point of removing all mention of it from their website (except one open box listing) and removing download links. They also never released a firmware update, so it's on 2018 firmware, despite the fact Flashforge has continued releasing updates to it. The lack of firmware update also means I can't even use the most recent version of their proprietary slicer, since it can't communicate with the old firmware version. The URL the firmware updater checks for ALL Monoprice Flashforge printers just returns a 404 now. Basically, I would not trust Monoprice to actually support their Flashforge-based printers at all. On this note, has anyone tried swapping a marlin compatible board into a Flashforge printer? It looks like the SKR 1.4 should support everything the Inventor has, with a few tweaks and modifications. Considering giving it a go, but it seems nobody on the internet has done this.
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Feb 13, 2020 21:02
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:Even if you use a drill or a lathe, respooling PLA is a loving nightmare. It really, really wants to keep its shape and if you persuade it too much it'll snap right quick. that's true. especially if it's on one of those horrible rolls with the tiny spindle so the inner coils are like 2 inches in diameter. might help to warm it up to like 60C before attempting to spool it? i mostly respool nylons that come on these stupid little 1-lb spools and nylon is super flexible and resilient so it's not a problem. Randalor posted:Go oooooon. We still have my late dad's industrial lathe in the workshop I do not recommend you do this unless you can already run a lathe safely and you have a second person watching to hit the e-stop should something go wrong: put the empty spool in the chuck (you can use the outside of the jaws on the inside of the spool since there's not much force involved), put the full spool on a dowel, loop a couple of turns manually around the empty spool, then turn the lathe on at lowest speed and let it run. wear a leather glove and you can control the tension with friction on the full spool. hold the dowel as loosely as possible and drop it at the first sign of unusual tension. anyway if the reason you're doing this is anything other than "i need to use this one bizarre filament that is only sold on weird spools that i hate and there is literally no other option" then you are wasting your time. most spools work fine and if your printer is only compatible with one format you should buy a new printer. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 21:45
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I'll second or third a vote for an Ender.
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Feb 13, 2020 21:49
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Super 3 posted:I'll second or third a vote for an Ender. The Ender is definitely the best bang for the buck. And with the $200+ you save over the Voxel, you could buy a Raspberry Pi + Camera, aluminum extruder, a BLTouch, a glass build plate, and an SKR Mini E3 to have something that puts out better prints than the Voxel with a bigger build area. About the only thing you'd be missing vs the Voxel at that point is being fully enclosed. And all of that would probably STILL be less expensive than the Voxel.
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Feb 13, 2020 22:06
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Rapulum_Dei posted:It IS eagle  Oh wow, that's really cool. I'm going to have to dig into this more.
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Feb 13, 2020 22:22
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EVGA Longoria posted:The Ender is definitely the best bang for the buck. And with the $200+ you save over the Voxel, you could buy a Raspberry Pi + Camera, aluminum extruder, a BLTouch, a glass build plate, and an SKR Mini E3 to have something that puts out better prints than the Voxel with a bigger build area. About the only thing you'd be missing vs the Voxel at that point is being fully enclosed. And all of that would probably STILL be less expensive than the Voxel. There's something to be said for the "buy a thing that already does what I need" approach, especially if you need to print ABS or nylon. The iffy extruder, closed source board, limited build volume and spool holder weirdness are a bit deal breaky the more I look at it tho re: spooling Sagebrush posted:anyway if the reason you're doing this is anything other than "i need to use this one bizarre filament that is only sold on weird spools that i hate and there is literally no other option" then you are wasting your time. most spools work fine and if your printer is only compatible with one format you should buy a new printer. extremely this. Other valid option: a bunch of spools fall off your top shelf and break in half, turning the floor into a nightmare of multicolored spaghetti ask me how i know Dr. Fishopolis fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 22:35
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I'll look into the Ender 3. Would I be able to put it into a cabinet with sufficient size on the interior, or do they need to work in a well ventilated area for reasons (ex: heat buildup or fumes released when the filament is heated up)?
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Feb 13, 2020 22:44
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