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Sagebrush posted:The only exception is that I am considering turning an old mendelmax into a machine that prints chocolate and cheese and other paste-form foods. That seems kinda fun If you manage to get a mashed potato printer working, god help us all.
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May 17, 2024 20:28
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SubNat posted:I dunno about the UV diffusion, but water is supposed to lower the amount of oxygen interacting with the resin before it's completely cured. I've never used any water washable resins, and I don't plan to, but the idea of having the dissolved resin not cure onto the part and create that whiteish film is interesting to me. And it's not like filling up a small tupperware with water is that much work.
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May 17, 2024 20:33
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Sagebrush posted:Everyone's entitled to their own hobbies, of course, but I have no interest in fixing and hacking and upgrading 3D printers anymore. I did that for over ten years, starting in early reprap/makerbot/printrbot days, and I am just totally loving done with that. A 3D printer is a tool like a Dremel or a soldering iron that I use to support the projects and hobbies I actually enjoy, and I want my tools to just work. Would you choose Bambu P1S (closed, proprietary) or Creality K1C (klipper, hackable) for the same price?
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May 17, 2024 20:41
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Sagebrush posted:Everything you have described sounds absolutely loving horrible. The objectively correct choices to building a consistently working printer? Or the "building a good printer at home takes some previous knowlege" Sagebrush posted:Everyone's entitled to their own hobbies, of course, but I have no interest in fixing and hacking and upgrading 3D printers anymore. I did that for over ten years, starting in early reprap/makerbot/printrbot days, and I am just totally loving done with that. A 3D printer is a tool like a Dremel or a soldering iron that I use to support the projects and hobbies I actually enjoy, and I want my tools to just work. Cool. Don't. But it really sounds like you're telling people here that you think building a printer is a waste of time. I just want my tools to work, too. Do you think I spend all my 3d printing hobby time working on my printers? I assure you I don't. I haven't with my enders, my mpmd, or my vorons. Every printer needs fixing from time to time. The rest is all optional. Upside is I'm also an expert on fixing my printer. To relate a bit of paintball experience. Now get ready to giggle. The Autococker was (kinda still is) a paintball marker that attracted.. tinkerers. As stock, the 1999 and newer autocockers were very reliable, and quite fast. But you'd find posts everywhere, and you'd find people at fields with broken makers. The problem wasn't ~the marker~ it was the fact it had things that could be done to it, so people insisted they had to do things to it. Lots of the aftermarket parts weren't as good as the stock parts. And unless you followed a good methodology getting it running again you were lost and dead in the water. This was true of several other platforms, but the analogy doesn't hold up as well because those platforms acutally sucked. (I'm looking at essentially everything made by smartparts...) So to wrap up this analogy, if you want to tinker with your printer, you can. But you can also chose not to, and still have a very well performing device. You've expressed your "I want tools that work" thing before. We know. Lots of home made tools suck. Some, don't.
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May 17, 2024 21:12
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Nerobro posted:
I definitely see a parallel in this statement with woodworking tools.
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May 17, 2024 22:46
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I think we need to hear more about the Autococker.
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May 17, 2024 22:55
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BlackIronHeart posted:I think we need to hear more about the Autococker. Giggity.
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May 17, 2024 22:59
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.... And that is why I ended up with an Angel and listening to the designer talk about it was just 
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May 17, 2024 23:23
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Nerobro posted:The fanboys of voron are their worst enemy. Pushed Thomas Sandlaarar out of the community. 
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May 17, 2024 23:24
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mewse posted:Would you choose Bambu P1S (closed, proprietary) or Creality K1C (klipper, hackable) for the same price? Creality can get hosed. Any 3d printer seller synonymous with "for gently caress sake update the firmware so thermal runaway protection actually works" can forever go gently caress itself.
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May 18, 2024 02:22
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mewse posted:Would you choose Bambu P1S (closed, proprietary) or Creality K1C (klipper, hackable) for the same price? Bambu, because my hobby is finding and making more stupid plastic things, not fighting with the stupid plastic toy creation engine.
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May 18, 2024 02:32
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I guess I'll ask here, other than glue on bare metal are there any other decent surfaces for TPU? (need to be magbed compatible because I have no easy way to do clips). Just wondering if I am missing out on anything fancy out there.
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May 18, 2024 03:13
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The default nozzle size for my printer is 0.4. That's what it says in Cura. That's what it says in my printer's configuration. If I wanted to change to a 0.6 nozzle, which settings would I need to change and where?
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May 18, 2024 05:40
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Roundboy posted:.... And that is why I ended up with an Angel and listening to the designer talk about it was just Best part about the pre 2005 sport was all the designers were accessible. I got to sit down with the guys from Palmers (Yes, another fun name). And the Orrs. Met the Gardners. Took classes from AKA and discussed their design philosophies. I was close to AGD for a very long time. I also met Simon Stevens pretty early. I ended up with an LED angel, but I can't follow what happened at WDP that really brought around their downfall. I didn't get in close to that group, but the angels exuded quality. Just the thin wall through holes in the casting were enough to have me damned impressed. Knew this one would come out. Want my criticisms of Voron? I've got a bunch. Starting with "noobs can't provide feedback" Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GwtOZz_8X94 Welp... looks like we may be staring down some printer supply issues. Bambu uses one of the brands on the restricted list. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 10:16 on May 18, 2024 |
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May 18, 2024 09:25
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kid sinister posted:The default nozzle size for my printer is 0.4. That's what it says in Cura. That's what it says in my printer's configuration. If I wanted to change to a 0.6 nozzle, which settings would I need to change and where? Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Nozzle Size. You'll probably have to spend some time adjusting stuff like hot end temps and extrusion multiplier/flow rates with the larger nozzle. It's rarely as easy as just slapping a new one on and running, because increasing the extrusion volume goes hand in hand with a number of other variables.
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May 18, 2024 13:23
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Once in this thread I denounced Benchy as a "stupid boat", but now I see the usefulness of having a small 3D object packed with tolerances to test that prints quickly! ALL HAIL BENCHY!
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May 18, 2024 19:32
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kid sinister posted:ALL HAIL BENCHY! Maybe not the absolute best benchmark, but it really does a decent job.
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May 18, 2024 23:32
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kid sinister posted:Once in this thread I denounced Benchy as a "stupid boat", but now I see the usefulness of having a small 3D object packed with tolerances to test that prints quickly! ONE OF US, ONE OF US
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May 18, 2024 23:45
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armorer posted:Maybe not the absolute best benchmark, but it really does a decent job. If you know of a better one, I'm all ears.
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May 19, 2024 01:20
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kid sinister posted:If you know of a better one, I'm all ears. I think for most specific troubleshooting you want a more tailored model. As a sanity check, benchy is great.
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May 19, 2024 02:19
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Benchy is a great test piece for a somewhat "decorative" part that you maybe won't throw away. The autodesk 3d printer assessment is a pretty good demo. Another is the Torture Toaster, but that one is much slower than a benchy and tests significantly more possible issues. Getting a toaster perfect requires an extremely well calibrated printer (and to be printing at 0.4 or lower IIRC for the smallest gap tolerances).
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May 19, 2024 05:56
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deimos posted:Benchy is a great test piece for a somewhat "decorative" part that you maybe won't throw away. I hear that. I give my Benchys to my kids to play with. Also, holy crap! My printer is printing better than ever since I tightened up that screw for the gear pressure filament grabber thingy! kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:48 on May 19, 2024 |
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May 19, 2024 16:11
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I returned the Elegoo after it was giving me nothing but problems. Got a full refund and it was quick and painless. I kiiiinda splurged on a replacement. I got a Bambu A1 with the AMS Lite. I am impressed. I can’t wait to play more with it. First thing I printed was a poop catcher. The second (which made a lot of poop): 
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May 19, 2024 21:16
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Anyone tried the water washable abs they have now? I'm very intrigued if it's decent. I bought a bottle to test it. Saves some money if it's halfway decent
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May 19, 2024 21:18
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queeb posted:Anyone tried the water washable abs they have now? I'm very intrigued if it's decent. I bought a bottle to test it. Saves some money if it's halfway decent It's still toxic as gently caress and you need to dispose of it appropriately, which will take longer if you depend on evaporation, but if you decant the water properly after using a flocculant it should be slightly better long term. Invest in an ultrasonic puddle large enough to fit a two gallon pail (or wash station tank if you already have them) and use that to hold the water (and more water in the puddle) so it's easier to clean everything up (ie. Don't put prints directly on the ultrasonic puddle)
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May 19, 2024 21:24
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queeb posted:Anyone tried the water washable abs they have now? I'm very intrigued if it's decent. I bought a bottle to test it. Saves some money if it's halfway decent I'm convinced "water washable" resin just exists to convince people they can dispose of the waste safely down a drain
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May 19, 2024 21:44
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Lol yeah, I wouldn't be draining it, but interested in cutting out IPA costs, that'd be a big saver of money and fumes
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May 19, 2024 22:03
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I was idly pondering things in the car today. And it struck me, that a really good analogy, though niche, is homebuilders, versus pilots. In the "build versus buy" printer thing.kid sinister posted:Once in this thread I denounced Benchy as a "stupid boat", but now I see the usefulness of having a small 3D object packed with tolerances to test that prints quickly! deimos posted:Benchy is a great test piece for a somewhat "decorative" part that you maybe won't throw away. The autodesk 3d printer assessment is a pretty good demo. The torture toaster is pretty, but also is really specific. Test prints shouldn't take longer than absolutely necessary. Benchy works at all scales. Tests the printer itself, more than things like bed adhesion. The more I think about it, the torture toaster is a stunt print, rather than a diagnostic print. Lots of "good print" setups, would fail a torture toaster because of what you're aiming to print, but a benchy would totally pass. For example, if you're tuning your printer to do vases. Or structural parts. Or things that need to hold liquid. All of those are likely to make a torture toaster fail. It's worth review, benchy provides you with a whole lot of clues to what is going on with your print, or slice. First layer height, ringing, overhangs, stringing, bridging, small towers, small single towers, vertical, and horizontal holes, and total extrusion with the deck line. And you get a lot of answers before the print is done. I am not sure what else we'd want from a test print? Nerobro fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 20, 2024 |
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May 20, 2024 01:19
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Nerobro posted:The torture toaster is pretty, but also is really specific. Test prints shouldn't take longer than absolutely necessary. Benchy works at all scales. Tests the printer itself, more than things like bed adhesion. The more I think about it, the torture toaster is a stunt print, rather than a diagnostic print. Lots of "good print" setups, would fail a torture toaster because of what you're aiming to print, but a benchy would totally pass. I don't think I fully agree. I would not define "passing" a torture toaster as "every gap must slide perfectly". It has a significant amount of overhang angles for you to see the limits of a profile, the possible cooling gaps you may have. It also tests skew a bit (but the Orca cube is better at this IMHO). In essence I disagree with "passing" as a requirement for the toaster to be helpful but instead that it's helpful in finding some of the limits. I will not disagree with the fact that it takes forever.
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May 20, 2024 01:58
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This might be a really stupid question, but can you take a lead-screw stepper motor and convert it to a normal stepper? I dissembled a stack of Saturn printers a while ago and have a bunch of motors from them I'm looking to repurpose. I may just turn them into some long exposure camera sliders, but I have a few of them and would rather use them in some DIY printer project
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May 21, 2024 16:04
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w00tmonger posted:This might be a really stupid question, but can you take a lead-screw stepper motor and convert it to a normal stepper? What length are they? Would they work for a prusa clone (320mm) or trident build (300mm)? I don't think the rotor piece of the motor is really sold separately. I think I've seen a video where a person disassembles the motor to glue in a new leadscrew shaft with a different length.
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May 21, 2024 16:18
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mewse posted:What length are they? Would they work for a prusa clone (320mm) or trident build (300mm)? Not that big, maybe 250. Fair point though, I'll hold onto this for some sicko mode voron 0.2 with a self levelling bed
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May 21, 2024 17:02
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You can cut the shaft and use a coupler. Replacing the shaft without damaging anything is, in my experience, fairly hard, specially without the correct tools. The interference fit with the rotor is a fairly hard press so you'll need an arbor press and a way to keep it straight. (and you'll likely need to turn the new shaft)
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May 21, 2024 18:58
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 Well, that's new... I was printing a cosplay piece for my wife, and at some point it had the offset issue I've occasionally experienced. A few layers later I assume the print head hit the model and knocked off the cover. It's just held on with strong magnets, so I guess it's kind of good that happened, since it stopped the print and threw an error. Doesn't look like there was any damage, but it wasted 5+ hours and a fair amount of filament. I still don't know what causes the offset issue. It only happens when I do a multi-color print, and it's not a single layer getting out alignment, it's EVERY layer above a certain point. If I print the exact same model again with no color changes, it always prints fine. It's completely bizarre.
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May 22, 2024 00:30
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Kind of a weird question but how do I figure out how much filament I have left? Is there a way to find the weights of the spool so I don’t have to unravel each of them and weigh them that way?
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May 22, 2024 02:34
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weigh an empty spool i usually napkin math a spool to weigh about 200g though if it's plastic
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May 22, 2024 02:40
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Kind of a weird question but how do I figure out how much filament I have left? Is there a way to find the weights of the spool so I don’t have to unravel each of them and weigh them that way? Some brands have little markers on the spool that show about how much is left at each tick mark. I think all the ones I've seen do this are on cardboard spools though, which tend to not be AMS-friendly if you're a Bambu-user.
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May 22, 2024 02:40
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MinionOfCthulhu posted:Kind of a weird question but how do I figure out how much filament I have left? Is there a way to find the weights of the spool so I don’t have to unravel each of them and weigh them that way? Some companies will print the weight of the empty spool on it.
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May 22, 2024 02:55
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BlackIronHeart posted:Some companies will print the weight of the empty spool on it. Yep, polymaker definitely does.
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May 22, 2024 03:03
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WhiteHowler posted:
What infill are you using? Grid? That, and some others like the cubics and a couple others famously like to go over themselves where they have laid a layer down, causing the nozzle to hit/rub I maintain that you are not seeing an offset issue with the print, but rather a print where the nozzle hit the print with enough force, and your adhesion was so good, that rather then knock the print off the bed, you caused the belt drive to skip. What the printer thinks is 0,0 is now 3,2 or something like that. I've had strikes, but my infill % was so low that I just hear the rock of it hitting a very small layer, but I have had offset issues with hits very rarely on other prints and printers. Simplest way to avoid it is change up infill, or you can start getting into z hop and avoiding crossing perimeters, etc.
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May 22, 2024 04:26
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