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Randalor posted:I was wanting an enclosure less for "maintaining proper heat levels" and more because I have a cat that I know would see a 3d printer in action and would go "yeah, I can totally take this thing" I have the opposite.. Both of mine are absolutely terrified of it. Soon as it moves under its own power they are gone.
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Feb 14, 2020 20:06
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Just last week I was being skeptical about the point of glass beds on an ender 3. Turns out that most of my printing over the past few months hasn't touched the build plate that much and once I started doing prints with lots of bed contact I was all like "oh, yeah that plate is warped". So, I picked up one of the creality glass build plates with the special textured surface because it's much easier to click a button on amazon than it is to make another trip to Lowes. Anyway, dang that makes a nice first layer! I was worried about adhesion as I read some people complaining about it and I never had a problem with it on the original build surface, but...it's fine, no problems.
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Feb 14, 2020 21:02
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Thermopyle posted:Just last week I was being skeptical about the point of glass beds on an ender 3. I have one of those plates. I was always getting corner lift up on prints and then yesterday couldn't get a decent hold at all. I have just been wiping down the glass with a paper towel but last night I rubbed it down with alcohol. It took some of the texture away but also the slickness of the glass. First layer stuck to it amazingly after that and even at 20c the prints were still stuck to it this morning. Should of done that out of the box.
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Feb 14, 2020 21:38
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Does anyone have any experience with a pei coated spring steel surface? Would they work with the magnetic sticker already on my bed for the Creality flexible mat?
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Feb 14, 2020 22:15
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Tremors posted:Does anyone have any experience with a pei coated spring steel surface? Would they work with the magnetic sticker already on my bed for the Creality flexible mat? I have just ordered one, so they better  .
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Feb 14, 2020 23:11
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I have a PEI powder coated springsteel sheet. Mostly just printing ABS and ABS+ with it. Former just lays on there when the plate cooled down, like you just tossed the parts on there. Latter requires bending to detach for larger parts.
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Feb 14, 2020 23:17
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Spent the whole fuckin day reverse engineering the aluminum parts that aren't as easy to DIY as the 3d printed ones for the 2X kat. I've got half of them cut out and it was enough to get half the hull put together: Let's hope she doesn't flip over or everyone will see where the filament suppliers changed: 
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Feb 15, 2020 04:58
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Spent the whole fuckin day reverse engineering the aluminum parts that aren't as easy to DIY as the 3d printed ones for the 2X kat. I've got half of them cut out and it was enough to get half the hull put together: I love the idea of the spyker cat but I think I'm just gonna make small driving things due to the time and cost. The Open RC F1 is probably one of the biggest things I've printed, besides some interlocking drawers. Spyker cat looks so cool, though.
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Feb 15, 2020 08:54
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Thermopyle posted:Just last week I was being skeptical about the point of glass beds on an ender 3. The glass plate was the best thing I ever got for mine.
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Feb 15, 2020 08:57
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There's another cool new printer described in this ars article: https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2020/02/a-new-spin-on-3d-printing-can-produce-an-object-in-seconds/ They're spinning a vat of resin and curing it with "lasers" from the different angles as it spins. Looks pretty awesome in that you don't need any supports, but the resolution isn't great and I feel like it would be difficult to scale if you had to spin around 2l jars of resin to get a decent volume out of it.
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Feb 15, 2020 10:27
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Sometimes you find yourself buying a roll of pink flesh tone filament to print dick valve stem caps, but that certainly doesn't require 1kg of filament, so it becomes the hideous dirty prototype filament.
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Feb 15, 2020 17:02
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I have a bunch of bright pink poo poo around my house because of that. I use it for functional brackets.
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Feb 15, 2020 17:35
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I bought a roll of rainbow filament once that that ended up just being like, four indistinguishable shades of purple and barf pink. That ended up used for test prints for a long while.
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Feb 15, 2020 17:40
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Well this is a really fascinating comparison between the strength of PLA/PETG filaments and "tough" UV resins: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6m_GnN5j4c tl;dr: Resin is actually pretty drat strong even compared to filament, the Elegoo ABS-like resin especially.
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Feb 15, 2020 17:59
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Oh man that Phrozen Sonic Mini is amazing. Really impressive screen lifetime along with speed of print. Even with that decrease to 1080p, that's probably plenty ppi for most folks. I might make a proposal for my hackerspace to pick up one of these since the barrier to entry for the Form 3 is probably too high for most hobbyists.
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Feb 15, 2020 18:54
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Hubis posted:Well this is a really fascinating comparison between the strength of PLA/PETG filaments and "tough" UV resins: I figure resin’s bad mechanical rep is mostly down to people neglecting/halfassing the post-print UV cure + really poo poo budget resins being manufactured w little care and zero QC. That being said, most UV-cure resin has a poo poo-ton of creep under load and degrades in ambient sunlight on a fairly short timescale, which can be a deal-breaker for any actual functional usage, esp anything that requires precision. On that note, i’m still thinking a lot about this revelation i posted a few pages back about dramatically improving mechanical qualities by copper-plating your prints- quote:The electrolytic copper and nickel have moduli of 124 GPa and 200 GPa respectively. These stiffnesses are nearly two orders of magnitude higher than that of an SL resin. The metal coating applied at the outer surface is also in the best location to have the maximum impact on the bending moment of the part. As a result, small amounts of metal should have a profound affect on the stiffness of coated SL models. The tensile strengths of the electrolytic copper and nickel run in the range of 350 MPa and 500 MPa respectively which is about one order of magnitude higher than an SL resin. The thin metal coating then would be expected to strengthen the model also but not to the degree that it changes the stiffness. To test the effectiveness of the coatings at stiffening from flex testing of and strengthening SL models, standard flex bar Somos 10100 resin coated with 0-0.09 specimens (127 mm x 12.7 mm x 3.2 mm) were prepared from Somos 10100 resin. A set was left uncoated, a second set was coated with 0.04 mm of copper + nickel in equal proportions, and a third set was coated with 0.09 to 0.11 mm of the metals. These samples were tested in flexure following ASTM Standard D790M. Typical stress-strain plots from each of these sets was selected and graphed in Figure 7 and a summary of the results is listed in Table 3. creep, UV damage and swelling from moisture uptake are also essentially halted, making parts suitable for all sorts of stuff you’d never want to use resin prints for conventionally. i’d love to try printing+cladding a small pump or steam engine model intended to be machined and see how well it stands up 
Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Feb 15, 2020 |
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Feb 15, 2020 20:57
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Got tired of waiting for a Mars Pro, ordered an Epax X1 lol Now to shop for accessories/resins.
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Feb 15, 2020 21:52
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 2 days into assembly (not counting the drilling time) and this thing has become so large that it’s hard to work on. As pictured it already weighs like 40 lbs. I put the lawn tractor hitch on it for salt spreader duty.
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Feb 16, 2020 06:16
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I'm not too far behind you with the 1X However, I ordered the wrong size pulleys for the motor and wont get new one until Wednesday. Printed a place holder for now, but that wont hold up to any kind of torque. Also still got 60 additional track links to print, which probably wont be done until Wednesday as well.
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Feb 16, 2020 08:03
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And shortly after: 
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Feb 16, 2020 08:35
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:
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Feb 16, 2020 12:35
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evil_bunnY posted:Isn't your track backwards? I think it's supposed to be like that, so that the sides bite in first and the whole thing is shaped like a weird horse shoe in contact with the ground. It's hard to see but it looks right in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLuU8_Padz4
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Feb 16, 2020 13:05
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Yep! Front is to the right in my picture, so the V of the cleat points backwards when viewed from above so that when it makes ground contact it's pulling forwards.ImplicitAssembler posted:And shortly after: Did you color match your motor? Classy. Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 15:48
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@foosel, can you explain what the different folders mean under Settings > Folders? I have 6 identical printers running OctoPrint, which means I have 1 "printer config" in my slicer. I have a 7th Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint (no printer connected). I'm hoping to use that 7th Pi as a generic upload target, to then have the other 6 printers see the file as available for printing. My intent, as I understand the folders, is to set the "watched" folder of the 6 nodes to the "upload" folder of the 7th master. But, when I try this, I don't see the uploaded files appear. Am I missing something, or is this so far out of left field that OctoPrint doesn't really do it?
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Feb 16, 2020 18:56
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How much money do you end up putting into one of those things?
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Feb 16, 2020 19:43
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First of two transmissions, holy poo poo this takes so long.
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Feb 16, 2020 20:42
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Wow, does it really need that huge of a gear ratio?
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Feb 16, 2020 20:47
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Rexxed posted:I think it's supposed to be like that, so that the sides bite in first and the whole thing is shaped like a weird horse shoe in contact with the ground. It's hard to see but it looks right in this video:
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Feb 16, 2020 20:54
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Combat Pretzel posted:Wow, does it really need that huge of a gear ratio? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8u3cj5o-aUA&t=9m30s it's designed for pretty high payload and tow capacity (as far as rc vehicles go) so a decent amount of gear reduction.
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Feb 16, 2020 20:58
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I've had a Prusa MK2S for over a year now and it has been flawless, out of the blue today it decided to stop recognizing three of the calibration spots on the bed and will crash when calibrating. What are the troubleshooting steps from here? Replace the bed first?
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Feb 16, 2020 23:01
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BlackMK4 posted:I've had a Prusa MK2S for over a year now and it has been flawless, out of the blue today it decided to stop recognizing three of the calibration spots on the bed and will crash when calibrating. What are the troubleshooting steps from here? Replace the bed first? The calibration spots are inert circles of copper. It's probably the probe that's broken. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/3tSXh6nWJd-pinda-probe-testing
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Feb 16, 2020 23:48
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moron izzard posted:my x axis stepper just went kaput after a hundred hours ish. I sent a support email and others have done the same (sucessfully) but ended up buying a new one in the meantime. Aaand my second skr mini went kaput between the time I set it up and the next time someone turned it on this weekend. Same axis even. I might have just gotten the bad luck of the draw but does anyone recommend a prebuilt firmware for this board on an ender 3 and bltouch? I was using the teaching tech one without issue for 100 hours on my first skr mini.
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Feb 17, 2020 01:41
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BMan posted:The calibration spots are inert circles of copper. It's probably the probe that's broken. Thank you, I'll use the test method there and see where I am. 
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Feb 17, 2020 02:30
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 Both transmissions and tracks are built. Transmissions are just sitting in there- the hex driveshafts don't fit into my drive sprockets because the hex-holes are undersized. So options are I try and dremel out the hex sockets (hard to do accurately), I heat the gently caress out of the hex shafts and melt them in hoping they don't destroy the parts, or just reprint them larger. Two sprockets and two drive pulleys add up to an entire spool, which is kind of annoying. The last thing to purchase for basic functionality on this project is a battery system. I don't really want to spend $400 on a huge lipo that can't be used for anything else, but I also don't wanna spend $200 on 12v powerwheels batteries. There is no doubt in my mind that I could stand on top of this thing while it drives around, it's so beefy.
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Feb 17, 2020 03:08
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Looks cool! What're you building it for?
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Feb 17, 2020 04:32
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:
What's the current draw? You may want to look into building li-ion battery packs.
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Feb 17, 2020 04:40
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The standard electronics setup is designed for 6x 12v batteries running at 36v. I got the recommended Pololu motor controllers assuming I'd go down that route; they're rated for 12 amps each, up to 40v. The reason for running SLABs is partly because the huge weight down low helps with traction. The designer is testing brushless/lipo setups right now, basically using electric skateboard motors on 12S. Since my cost is already sunk on the electronics, I could get some utility out of getting 2x huge 4S packs and running in series, then just putting weight inside for traction. But that's almost certainly more expensive. I haven't looked into making a giant lion pack. I'm sure the current output with brushed motors is low enough, but not sure I want to deal with building the pack. Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Feb 17, 2020 |
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Feb 17, 2020 05:07
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Hubis posted:Well this is a really fascinating comparison between the strength of PLA/PETG filaments and "tough" UV resins: I got a bottle of Black ABS-like in my resin tray building the Rocinante as a benchmark right now. I picked up a Longer Orange 10 on an auction site for under $100 new in box as my first foray into this hobby, and if it goes well, we'll see about getting something better. My 8yo already has a list of cutesy stuff from various cartoons that she wants me to make.
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Feb 17, 2020 05:15
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Ok, li-ions would work, but it would still be a bit pricey...and you'd really want a spotwelder to make the packs. $130 for a 10A 36v pack. (10s) https://www.imrbatteries.com/samsung-50e-21700-5000mah-9-8a-battery/ Add a BMS: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000193114593.html You'll then also want a charger. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33051412626.html That'll give you 20A continous draw. You can DIY a battery spotwelder from $50-$100...or buy a cheap one from BG/aliexpress. Since the current draw is low, you could also look at Multistar lipos. They sag like crazy, but at that low a current, it would be manageable.
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Feb 17, 2020 05:24
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Having been down this road myself, it's much easier and cheaper to just buy a pre-built battery pack with the specs you want off AliExpress.
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Feb 17, 2020 09:19
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