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gently caress whoever at Denso decided that instead of drilling the TJ/YJ radiator to work with the OEM shroud bolts, it should come with the worst cheese grade self tapping 10-24 screws instead. Wouldn't have been so bad if I knew it was an issue going into it since I could have drilled and tapped them with actual tools before mounting it up.
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Apr 21, 2019 08:35
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 16:56 |
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If anyone is looking for a secure storage system for their JK, I just installed this Diabolical Inc. Slipstream XLS on mine and it's pretty badass. https://imgur.com/gallery/c1fLD15
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Apr 24, 2019 20:31
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That looks really nice. Is it weather resistant? Or at least weather resistant enough to keep dust out of there while off road?
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Apr 24, 2019 21:42
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Kastivich posted:That looks really nice. Is it weather resistant? Or at least weather resistant enough to keep dust out of there while off road? Weather resistant to a point. It's by no means water proof, but it'd certainly keep things clean inside the trunk while out on the trail.
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Apr 24, 2019 21:50
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My Jeep has been marking it's spot a little more than normal lately - I think I'm in maintenance debt  My steering box is leaking. It was installed not too long ago. Seems to be leaking from the top of the box so I'm hopeful that I'll be able to fix it easily once I get access to it. Anyone have experience with replacing seals on a Jeep steering box? My rear 8.8 is leaking. I've been topping off the gear oil every few days since it's been leaking from the pinion. I'm going to replace the pinion seal and I know there are some things to be concerned with - like getting the pinion nut back exactly where it was and as tight as it was. I plan on marking the pinion and the nut and counting rotations to remove the nut. My NV3550 manual transmission is leaking. I've topped it off a few times and I can't tell where it's leaking from exactly. It has what looks like a rear main seal leak but I think it's inside the bell housing and is more likely the transmission. After topping it off it seems to leak from up high on the transmission somewhere. I plan on rebuilding my transfer case soon so I'll probably see if I can locate the leak at that time. Is there a most likely spot for it to be leaking from at the front of the trans? Is there an input seal? Hopefully I can stop the leak without rebuilding the trans, though I need to do that soon too I think. Also I noticed last night that the only thing holding my muffler in is half of a bolt at the flange, and the exhaust hangers  I also get a big ol' clunk when shifting, which I think is the throwout bearing. Also both driveshafts need rebuilding.
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Apr 26, 2019 16:22
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I spotted a Dixie Cup Jeep in the wild. 
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Apr 26, 2019 22:52
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mattfl posted:If anyone is looking for a secure storage system for their JK, I just installed this Diabolical Inc. Slipstream XLS on mine and it's pretty badass. $700 for a 20 gauge steel lid* w/ a strip of 12g steel on top. No thanks. Also gently caress them for not building for TJs as well. Astonishing Wang posted:My NV3550 manual transmission is leaking. I've topped it off a few times and I can't tell where it's leaking from exactly. It has what looks like a rear main seal leak but I think it's inside the bell housing and is more likely the transmission. After topping it off it seems to leak from up high on the transmission somewhere. I plan on rebuilding my transfer case soon so I'll probably see if I can locate the leak at that time. Is there a most likely spot for it to be leaking from at the front of the trans? Is there an input seal? Hopefully I can stop the leak without rebuilding the trans, though I need to do that soon too I think. Check the trans fluid cooler lines? I just had a blast with mine after manipulating them created a pinhole in the rust that was coating them.  I'm also probably going to be on the hook soon for rebuilds.. ..top end of the engine, trans, transfer case.. 
LCL-Dead fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Apr 30, 2019 |
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Apr 30, 2019 15:15
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LCL-Dead posted:$700 for a 20 gauge steel lid* w/ a strip of 12g steel on top. No thanks. It's quite a bit more than just a steel lid, but ok. Compare it to the other manufactures of these types of systems out there and you'll see he's actually priced cheaper than a few of them. Also, he is making one for a TJ, it should be ready in a few weeks. 
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Apr 30, 2019 15:40
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There is an input shaft seal that you can replace without rebuilding the transmission on the NV3550.
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Apr 30, 2019 17:13
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I wonder how hard it would be to use a Colorado-sourced AR5? It's another AX15 derivative but with (as far as I know) a different input shaft length than the Jeep AX15. They're cheap as gently caress used.
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Apr 30, 2019 17:17
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My tj's wipers decided they aren't working any more. The washer jet still works. I'm guessing its the motor or the fuse. At least its sunny for the next week or so 
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Apr 30, 2019 17:49
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So a buddy and I spent the past few weekends working on his 98 XJ. It had wicked death wobble. We replaced: Trackbar, swaybar endlinks F&R (front had one broken and the other rotted), rear springs, rear shackles, rear spring plates and U-bolts. Everything was OEM or similar (Moog trackbar) Lot of sawzall use to cut bushing bolts... plus the plasma cutter to deal with the old rotted shackles. Everything got buttoned up on Sunday, and it drives better, but still gets death wobble over ~45mph if you hit a bump hard enough. The odd thing is that the axle is shifted to the driver's side of the car. There's about an inch of tire showing outside the flares on the driver's side, and it's pretty much flush on the passenger's side. What's the next step in correcting the death wobble? The front suspension arm bushings are definitely shot, and I suspect the shocks are done too. The steering stabilizer is long dead, based on how rusty it is. Tie rod boots are fine, and there isn't any noticeable play in them if pried on with a prybar.
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Apr 30, 2019 19:17
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sharkytm posted:The odd thing is that the axle is shifted to the driver's side of the car. Adjust the track bar to center the wheels under the car. You will probably need to adjust the drag link after this too, to make up for the shift. There's about an inch of tire showing outside the flares on the driver's side, and it's pretty much flush on the passenger's side. sharkytm posted:What's the next step in correcting the death wobble? The front suspension arm bushings are definitely shot, and I suspect the shocks are done too. The steering stabilizer is long dead, based on how rusty it is. Tie rod boots are fine, and there isn't any noticeable play in them if pried on with a prybar. I usually have someone wiggle the steering wheel sharply and go around and feel every link in the front to pinpoint where the worn parts are. If it's clunking or shifting even a little bit you check the bolt is tight enough and/or replace it. Sounds like you found the problem on the suspension arm bushings, so it's time for some new suspension arms! (get replacable/servicable johnny joints if you want cheaper fixes in the future)
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Apr 30, 2019 21:06
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tuna posted:Adjust the track bar to center the wheels under the car. You will probably need to adjust the drag link after this too, to make up for the shift. There's about an inch of tire showing outside the flares on the driver's side, and it's pretty much flush on the passenger's side. The track bar isn't adjustable, unless it's only the drag link adjustment. This was a MOOG DS1235 OEM-replacement, not a fancy adjustable one.
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Apr 30, 2019 23:05
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Compare the new one to the old one, make sure they're the same length.
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May 1, 2019 04:43
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Now my wipers are working again its a Chrysler miracle. I'm sure they won't fail again when it's raining next time  I think I'll pull the motor and see if it's looking corroded and nasty.
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May 1, 2019 05:22
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sharkytm posted:So a buddy and I spent the past few weekends working on his 98 XJ. It had wicked death wobble. Check if the track bar mount is coming off the frame or if the frame rail is cracked between the track bar mount and steering box, or under the steering box. Have him move the wheel back and forth while you look for things moving that should not be moving.
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May 1, 2019 12:52
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sharkytm posted:What's the next step in correcting the death wobble? The front suspension arm bushings are definitely shot, and I suspect the shocks are done too. The steering stabilizer is long dead, based on how rusty it is. Tie rod boots are fine, and there isn't any noticeable play in them if pried on with a prybar. Steering Stabilizer will definitely help. I was still running the factory one at 130k miles with lift & bigger tires and bumps at speeds over 40mph would give me a slight wobble for a few seconds. Replaced it with the $40 one from Rubicon Express and now I don't even realize I'm hitting the same bumps. Ultimately, the wobble I had prior to the lift was fixed by the lift, so for me that was swaybar endlinks, springs, shocks, lower control arms (non-adjustable) and an adjustable trackbar. I also have front end damage from hitting a guard rail on black ice that bent my frame about 1" to the right so my front axle also sits off-center from the body by about that much, otherwise I put stress on the springs trying to straighten it back out. mattfl posted:It's quite a bit more than just a steel lid, but ok. Compare it to the other manufactures of these types of systems out there and you'll see he's actually priced cheaper than a few of them. Don't kid yourself. 99% of "security enclosures" are not much more than a steel deck lid that's bolted in place. It doesn't take much more than that to "secure" the rear of the jeep. On price: Mind you, I'm looking at TJ accessories here, but the only one that exceeded the price of theirs was the Tuffy Big Box, coming in at $755. I'd sooner buy the Smittybuilt box and save $400 over both the Tuffy and the Diabolical. It looks good, I'll give it that.. though not better than the Jeep Backbone versions (comparably priced and only available on 07+). But ignore me, I'm just a poor shmuck who can't afford to buy the name brand accessories he wants, so I balk hard at overpriced poo poo and build it myself.
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May 1, 2019 14:46
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LCL-Dead posted:
The Backbone is similar, there are quite a few differences however. There's more features on the Diabolical than there is on the Backbone. But you're right, if you're someone who can do it yourself by all means have at it 
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May 1, 2019 15:53
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Replacing your steering stabilizer to counter death wobble is not a fix, just a band aid. They aren't the cause, they can't be the solution. Fix the broken linkages/bushings that are actually causing the problem.
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May 1, 2019 16:29
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EightBit posted:Replacing your steering stabilizer to counter death wobble is not a fix, just a band aid. They aren't the cause, they can't be the solution. Fix the broken linkages/bushings that are actually causing the problem. This is the truth. I've run on my 4" lift on 40s with no steering stabilizer with 0 issues before. You're just masking the bigger issue if you "fix" your death wobble with a steering stabilizer.
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May 1, 2019 16:44
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Agreed. I'm on ~4.5" (but only 33s ) and can't even run a steering stabilizer, because it would foul on my skid plate. Never been an issue. Now, the crappy old worn out lift that I took off to install this gear, that one had a steering stabilizer. It also had wicked death wobble.
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May 1, 2019 16:59
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Has anyone said ball joints yet? Bad/worn ball joints can def cause death wobble.
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May 1, 2019 17:07
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mattfl posted:Has anyone said ball joints yet? Bad/worn ball joints can def cause death wobble. Absolutely! And don't use anything but Spicer ball joints .
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May 1, 2019 18:07
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Didn't mean to make it sound like steering stab would fix death wobble, my bad. But it definitely smoothed the tiny wobble my old 130k mile bitch has when I hit bumps in the road going 60+. I'll probably replace my front axles before I get into replacing all of the bushings, some of which are no doubt going bad. I'm fairly certain that the, and I don't know the nomenclature on this part, but the "C" shaped piece at the end that your ball joints are mounted in.. I'm pretty sure that arm is bent in a few degrees up top from the accident. Still drives straight/true and there's no uneven wear on the front right tire despite the slight negative camber on the tire. Might replace ball joints this summer.. ..are polyeuothane bushings really super squeeky in a jeep?
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May 1, 2019 18:13
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LCL-Dead posted:..are polyeuothane bushings really super squeeky in a jeep? My TJ came with them, and so far I'd say no. The PO definitely gooped them up with a shitload of grease when installing them. But I'm also betting they're costing me some flex.
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May 1, 2019 18:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:My TJ came with them, and so far I'd say no. The PO definitely gooped them up with a shitload of grease when installing them. But I'm also betting they're costing me some flex. Yeah, Ive heard the loss of flex concern from a few people when I mention poly bushings. However I'm in the swamplands of Eastern NC. Flex isn't my biggest concern by a long shot. Now seals.. god I've replaced so many seals and gaskets. mattfl posted:But you're right, if you're someone who can do it yourself by all means have at it That's the current plan, I'll even throw up some progress pics come June/July when I am no longer driving my kids into school in the morning and can actually remove the back seat.
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May 1, 2019 18:43
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Astonishing Wang posted:Absolutely! And don't use anything but Spicer ball joints . I put Dynatrac Pro Steers in mine, but it's the last set I'll ever need to buy as they are rebuildable.
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May 1, 2019 18:47
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LCL-Dead posted:Yeah, Ive heard the loss of flex concern from a few people when I mention poly bushings. However I'm in the swamplands of Eastern NC. Flex isn't my biggest concern by a long shot. Now seals.. god I've replaced so many seals and gaskets. Fair enough. This is considered an easy trail here: 
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May 1, 2019 19:45
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My Jeep hit 3k miles yesterday. To celebrate the check engine light came on.
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May 2, 2019 13:36
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Just ordered a new front wheel hub for my Cherokee. The Moog instructions say to use a new axle nut, but I haven't heard that before? Also ordered new tie rod ends for my wife's Patriot. Already had to replace her ball joints because they were ready to fall apart. Meanwhile those parts are all still solid as a rock on my Jeep despite being 11 years older *knocks on wood*. Krispy Wafer posted:My Jeep hit 3k miles yesterday. To celebrate the check engine light came on. 
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May 2, 2019 14:31
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Krispy Wafer posted:My Jeep hit 3k miles yesterday. To celebrate the check engine light came on. Just wait until the traction control light comes on. In a dry parking lot, while you're not moving. Once every two to three weeks.
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May 2, 2019 19:02
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I'm going to jinx it for sure but in the 100k miles I've put on my XJ (130k to 230k now) I've only ever had the check engine light come on once.. when a wire to the front O2 sensor got frayed and burnt touching the exhaust manifold. The 4 liter is a drat champ of an engine. Can you imagine if Chrysler somehow was able to keep making the 4 liter and continuing to improve it to this day? I wonder if an inline 6 is inherently more or less efficient than a V6, other than just taking a lot more space in the engine bay. A modern 4 liter with direct injection, etc. would probably be a monster of an engine.
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May 2, 2019 19:07
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Look, most of the problems that 4.0 engines had were near the end of production. I don't think Chrysler was capable of improving on the design.
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May 2, 2019 19:27
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In my case it’s a high idle error that’s apparently fixed with a software update. But it’s still new. I’m sure some brave and courageous engineer under designed a part to catastrophically fail soon enough.
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May 2, 2019 19:29
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Alright, I'm gonna have to drop the transmission skin to deal with a rear main seal and do some clutch servicing as well as throwing in a b&m shifter I got a good deal on. What all other bearings and seals and small maintenance stuff should I change while the transmission is out?
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May 2, 2019 23:32
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mod sassinator posted:I'm going to jinx it for sure but in the 100k miles I've put on my XJ (130k to 230k now) I've only ever had the check engine light come on once.. when a wire to the front O2 sensor got frayed and burnt touching the exhaust manifold. The 4 liter is a drat champ of an engine. Can you imagine if Chrysler somehow was able to keep making the 4 liter and continuing to improve it to this day? I wonder if an inline 6 is inherently more or less efficient than a V6, other than just taking a lot more space in the engine bay. A modern 4 liter with direct injection, etc. would probably be a monster of an engine. LOL, mine's also at 230k (well, 229,0xx technically) and I can't remember the last time the CEL was off.
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May 2, 2019 23:36
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I got 22mpg regularly in my toilet of a 98 XJ with a 250k+ mile 94 motor slam dunked into it. No check engine light either. If you fix yo poo poo it usually runs pretty well. I didn't even put that much work into the EFI system to achieve that. I resurrected my 91 Comanche today to take the front half of the 98 XJ to the junkyard this weekend. Good night foul prince, you cursed my life for far too long and turned out to be VIN swapped by the previous owner.
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May 3, 2019 03:07
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I finished up some front end stuff yesterday - new ball joints, u-joints and axle tube sleeves. I also welded the divots from where the brake pads slide.  
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May 4, 2019 15:11
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 16:56 |
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Nice I need to do that on my tj. How hard was doing the ball joint press stuff ?
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May 4, 2019 17:34
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