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Am I retarded for seriously considering doing it in-car? Remove radiator, intake, accessories; unbolt the engine mounts, unbolt transmission, unbolt P/S and A/C and wire off to the side; jack up engine and swing from side-to-side laterally after removing the valve covers to get enough clearance to get to the cam and head bolts. If I'm careful I may be able to do this in increments under the covered parking in the townhouse (they have a "no working on your car" policy in effect, but I think if I can leave the car with the hood down looking complete at the end of the day it'll be fine). Alternately I could do the same thing on the street right outside my back gate. I mean, it's so much easier to pay a shop to do it (and they could machine the heads down themselves), but it's like $1200-1800 more and I really don't have the money right now, and won't for a few months. Commuting by motorcycle 45 miles every day on the 51, 202, and Beeline is a pain in the rear end at rush hour. E: I started here and moved onwards from that. It's a time vs money issue - fix car in a horrible, annoying way immediately, or have to save for a few months to do it in a nice fashion. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Mar 7, 2014 |
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Mar 7, 2014 21:24
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Yes, that is a terrible way to do it. By the time you've done all that the engine is practically out of the car.
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Mar 7, 2014 21:26
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The local guy does DOHC out of car and SOHC in car. I do all mine out of car because its a lot easier to clean poo poo up and work and be meticulous. The time difference isn't THAT far off.
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Mar 7, 2014 22:11
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No engine hoist or place to work on it.
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Mar 7, 2014 22:21
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Completely hypothetical question time. If you had an '07 WRX with a bunch of mods putting out 289hp at the wheels, and it was in need of a new transmission, what would you do? Is a used OEM tranny going to be tough enough? Do I need to shell out for a gear set by PPG or similar? Rebuilding the current tranny or swapping in a used one are both doable, the upgrade route would be somewhat financially uncomfortable and ill-timed but could save me a good chunk of change in the long run if/when I build the car into something meaner down the road. Anyone have any advice for this situation?
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Mar 8, 2014 09:06
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6-speed would be ideal. Lgt gearset as 2nd choice. Flatirons Subaru in co sells the kit with I think all the parts you need.
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Mar 8, 2014 09:17
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They don't list a kit for '07s on their site, I'll have to call them. That being said, holy Jesus $4800 for the kit. I'm not seeing many used 6mts for sale, either. Fantastic. Edit: LGT gearset for $600 is mighty appealing. And any idea what the speed discrepancy would be like with a 3.7 FD? Edit 2 because I answered one of the questions with the ~internet~ Fifty Three fucked around with this message at 09:59 on Mar 8, 2014 |
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Mar 8, 2014 09:34
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I would murder for a 3.7 FD. I'm running a 4.444 final drive right now and it's the most impractical thing for hwy driving, especially when it's $90/fillup on 91 octane.
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Mar 8, 2014 11:28
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Fifty Three posted:They don't list a kit for '07s on their site, I'll have to call them. That being said, holy Jesus $4800 for the kit. I'm not seeing many used 6mts for sale, either. Fantastic. Can you do the gearset yourself? Because having the trans broken open and rebuilt will cost you another $1200-$2000 depending on what they find once they're in there. There's a reason that it's more common to just swap in a pre-built one. VelociBacon posted:I would murder for a 3.7 FD. I'm running a 4.444 final drive right now and it's the most impractical thing for hwy driving, especially when it's $90/fillup on 91 octane. Most people would kill to trade you transmissions for that 4.44, so if you really want to go to a 3.9, it wouldn't be too hard to accomplish.
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Mar 8, 2014 16:08
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Fifty Three posted:They don't list a kit for '07s on their site, I'll have to call them. That being said, holy Jesus $4800 for the kit. I'm not seeing many used 6mts for sale, either. Fantastic. http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-1686-2005-2008-legacy-gt-1st-4th-gear-set.aspx 2nd from bottom, but you have to see what is broken first. Sounds more like a syncro or shift fork related issue to me. A 5-speed is not that difficult to take apart and the big things you need are a press and a bearing splitter. Also here is some stuff about the differences between the different 5-speed gearsets: http://flatironsrally.typepad.com/faq/2010/05/comparison-of-subaru-gear-sets-wrx-legacy-gt-sti-ra-and-more.html
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Mar 8, 2014 18:41
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Okay, I've got this sorted. Here is my order of operations for this damned head gasket issue: 1: Bet $300-350 on my own ability, and buy kit and bolts to change HG in car 2a: Make project thread or posts about my 2b: If I fail, take car to mechanic and pay $1500 anyway, lose $350 for trying 3: With car fixed, list car on Craigslist for $3000 (most local 97 outbacks sell for around $2400, but most of those say "needs thermostat" which is code for "I'm screwing you over on a car that needs a head gasket job") 4: Refuse to budge on $3000 price, endure horrible texts/emails/calls 5: Continue to drive car until someone buys it outright 6a: Use money to buy a 74+ VW Beetle and/or a small econobox of some sort 6b: Continue to happily drive Subaru forever because nobody bought it 7: make project thread about Beetle and/or the lovely econobox or continued Subaru modifications/repairs Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Mar 8, 2014 |
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Mar 8, 2014 18:59
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jamal posted:http://www.flatironstuning.com/p-1686-2005-2008-legacy-gt-1st-4th-gear-set.aspx
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Mar 8, 2014 20:04
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 Anyone know what year WRX these seats would be from?
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Mar 9, 2014 03:06
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:
Looks like 06-07 seats to me.
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Mar 9, 2014 03:33
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Not with that crotch bolster. That's a seat off one of the 93-01 WRXes I bet. Could be V7 STI/WRX based on how the headrest looks, though. Definitely not North American, which makes sense for an Australian. Easiest way to tell is if it's height adjustable. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 04:06
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Not with that crotch bolster. That's a seat off one of the 93-01 WRXes I bet. Could be V7 STI/WRX based on how the headrest looks, though. Definitely not North American, which makes sense for an Australian. It looks like V7 WRX seats. Could be 6 as well.
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Mar 9, 2014 04:56
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Anybody know of any reason why i shouldn't buy a japanese EJ205 with a claimed ~80k kms for ~2 grand after shipping/pickup as a cheap way to get my wrx back on the road? On my engine, I'm about 50% sure the greddy turbo is bad, 100% sure the alternator is bad, and the bottom end is all buggered up. It seems like a cheap and easy way to not nickel and dime myself into the poor house on a basic rebuild. Every time i start working into aftermarket stuff it all gets out of hand and i drive myself nuts. edit: also, is it worth rebuilding the greddy turbo, which i belive is a T518Z, without getting it rebalanced? Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 05:21
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Oiling on the EJ205 sucks, but I wouldn't want to wire up an EJ255 or EJ257 in there in a hurry. The EJ207 isn't too much harder to wire (you have to run a handful of new wires for AVCS) but you have to deal with radiator hose clearance and some other crap that the EJ205 doesn't. I don't think I've ever seen anyone import a JDM EJ205 before. Alternators are cheapo, pull from a junkyard Foz and laugh. Run Rotella 5W40 and keep a really good eye on the level if you're going to take a hard turn. I'd toss the old motor and speed parts on kijiji/WSC as a mildly overpriced core and try to move it as one chunk. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 05:27
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EJ207s seem to be around $4,000 though, i understood the problem on either was the oil pickup tube, are there issues beyond that?
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Mar 9, 2014 05:31
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From what I see of local EJ205s, going even mildly low on oil will let you spin a bearing at autocross speeds, especially as they're getting up there in age. The EJ257 and EJ255s have trouble with the oil pickup tubes breaking, but the 205's problem is starvation. I'm not sure if there's an oiling weakness on the 207 but I probably wouldn't run any of the EJ20 engines without a crank baffle and religious oil checks.
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Mar 9, 2014 05:38
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There isn't really a difference in the oiling system of any of the EJ engines, so I wouldn't ever say that one is worse than another. The "twin scroll" pan, found on the sti and 07+ wrx and pretty much everything else now, does do a better job of keeping oil around the pickup, so it is worth it to put one of those on a car that sees auto-x and track type stuff.
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Mar 9, 2014 06:09
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jamal posted:There isn't really a difference in the oiling system of any of the EJ engines, so I wouldn't ever say that one is worse than another. The "twin scroll" pan, found on the sti and 07+ wrx and pretty much everything else now, does do a better job of keeping oil around the pickup, so it is worth it to put one of those on a car that sees auto-x and track type stuff. So would you ever suggest against a $1900-$2000(shipped to red deer) jdm ej205? From what i've read it's as simple as swapping out the intake, a few sensors, and a few pulleys. The dream™ is to possibly get the car running for $2500. figuring $1900 for the engine, $300 for a clutch while the engine is out anyways, $250 for a tune, and $50 for other little fiddly bits(yeah, right)
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Mar 9, 2014 06:16
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 At work ATM so that's the best picture I can get but that's a height adjustment lever isn't it? Regardless they are going in my 03 impreza (blobeye outside america), got them for 100 to resell but they are just so much better than impreza seats. Normally they are worth 4-600 here depending on condition. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 07:31 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 06:39
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Yeah, that's a height adjuster lever. You should probably shrink the picture down because I'm seeing way more detail of human skin flakes and miscellaneous slime in the gross seat rails than I ever wanted to see before.jamal posted:There isn't really a difference in the oiling system of any of the EJ engines, so I wouldn't ever say that one is worse than another. The "twin scroll" pan, found on the sti and 07+ wrx and pretty much everything else now, does do a better job of keeping oil around the pickup, so it is worth it to put one of those on a car that sees auto-x and track type stuff. FWIW my 06 WRX had the updated pan, because the shop ordered an STI pan to do the Killer B swap and then discovered it was already the same pan. I think it's all turbo 2.5, at least on the Impreza. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 07:01
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Holy poo poo that's a gigantic picture. In related recent news:  Tuesday, it begins.
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Mar 9, 2014 07:19
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Sorry, posting from my phone. For me it was 1 inch by 2 inches big. Does that mean they are 06 seats if they have that adjuster?
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Mar 9, 2014 07:35
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, that's a height adjuster lever. You should probably shrink the picture down because I'm seeing way more detail of human skin flakes and miscellaneous slime in the gross seat rails than I ever wanted to see before. Not just all turbo 2.5s, but all EJ25s '06+. With the EJ205, I've heard some say that the oiling system is fine as long as you aren't doing donuts, but then Grassroots Motorsports spun a bearing the first time on the track with their '02 wagon.
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Mar 9, 2014 13:30
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Sorry, posting from my phone. For me it was 1 inch by 2 inches big. They're not from a USDM car.
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Mar 9, 2014 14:03
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Yakattak posted:They're not from a USDM car. As in they aren't WRX seats or they aren't seats from a LHD car? E: if its option 2 (I hope it is),IIRC AUDM is close to USDM apart from like blobeye, which we got a year before you. underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 14:18
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If they have that adjuster it means they're at least 01+ GD/GG WRX seats. Based on the styling I'm pretty sure they're non-USDM V7 WRX (01-02) seats as USDM 06 seats do not have the crotch bolster and are a different shade of grey. I think the V7 STI seats are all that bright blue suede, though I've only seen a few V7 STIs in Canada as we can't import them yet.
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Mar 9, 2014 16:29
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Maybe they are from a 2.5L impreza? They come with them too don't they? I'm pretty sure I've sat in an RS with grey seats like these. I got them from a facebook sales page like an hour after they were posted up, they were like $100 and had a lot of interest, and like I said they sell easily for ~$500 here. The guy got them to put in a Holden Commodore and then couldn't, and lived in the middle of nowhere so I guess he was having trouble selling them, it was a 4 hour round trip to pick them up.
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Mar 9, 2014 16:42
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Maybe they are from a 2.5L impreza? They come with them too don't they? I'm pretty sure I've sat in an RS with grey seats like these. Look like normal RHD GD WRX seats to me. RS seats in the US do not have an attached headrest with a pass through, and those are definitely not LHD seats.
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Mar 9, 2014 18:18
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I think my annoying wind noise might be coming from the weatherstripping on my driver's side door. It's supposed to cup the edge of the window at the sill and it's a bit stretched out there. Is there a cheaper place to buy a replacement than subarugenuineparts.com ? Edit: or does anyone know a part number?
blk fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Mar 9, 2014 |
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Mar 9, 2014 19:42
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Those seats aren't out of a 98 STi for what that's worth. We have knobs that rotate to adjust stuff not the levers.
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Mar 9, 2014 21:40
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Geirskogul posted:Tuesday, it begins. Good luck. Righty tighty, lefty loosy.
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Mar 10, 2014 13:51
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Tire question... I have 1 tire with a failing sidewall that needs replacement. Unfortunately the load/speed rating of the specific tire is discontinued and out of stock at tirerack, 91V. They have the same tire with a load/speed rating of 87H. The difference is 1201 lbs per tire and 130 mph (87H) vs 1356 lbs per tire and 150 mph (91V). Tirerack is so cheap and convenient with the shipping and tread matching, so is this a big deal? I only need to go 129 mph but the load rating difference is a little alarming. I can find the right tire elsewhere but it's more expensive, I can't have the treads matched, etc. etc. Is it worth the hassle? Current tires have about 75% of their useful life left. Thanks. Also, if anyone remembers my long winded story from a while back, it ended up being a front O2 sensor failure. 2005 LGT.
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Mar 10, 2014 21:49
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Geirskogul posted:Holy poo poo that's a gigantic picture. Why the extra set of valve cover gaskets? Are the felpro ones poo poo or something? On the same note, are the felpro head gaskets good or should you only stick with the OEM gaskets listed in the OP? I gotta do the same thing soon, before I warp the heads.
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Mar 10, 2014 22:16
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I recommend using OEM headgaskets, and taking the engine out of the car. 11044AA610 for the dohc 2.5 n/a. And you don't need new bolts.
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Mar 10, 2014 22:25
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Also I hope he has a torque wrench or it'll be a short time before another head gasket job - it's really important.
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Mar 10, 2014 22:30
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Slim Pickens posted:Why the extra set of valve cover gaskets? Are the felpro ones poo poo or something? I heard good things about that other brand, and I have a habit of always loving up valve cover gaskets. Like, constantly. It's almost a tradition by this point. It's the same reason I always buy three screen protectors for whatever device, because I always gently caress up the first two. And I do have a torque wrench, though I thought I had to get new head bolts. Oh well, I'll keep the new ones on standby in case I screw something up, and if all goes well I'll return them NIB to Amazon. Same thing with the valve cover gasket, which was the plan for that. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 10, 2014 |
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Mar 10, 2014 22:31
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