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Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Got all four struts in the Outback done, despite 98F and 35% humidity. Good God that sucked. I *hate* sweating, and the humidity absolutely insured I was soaking wet within 30 minutes or so. Had to go inside and take a shower/AC break half-way through. Kinda want to go back to AZ/NM where sweat worked and you could just drink a lot of water.
Rest of the suspension looks good, as do brake pads/rotors, CV boots, and such I could see. Really happy with this car.

On the down side, my wife managed to back it into the Harbor Freight trailer parked in front of the garage, and then compound that by neglecting to shift into drive before trying to pull away from it, thereby ramming the trailer tongue into the garage door. Was able to bend the door back out enough to function, but now it's got a crease in it that's going to annoy me for years. Just like the last one she put into the old door. <Sigh>.
Didn't hurt the trailer or the Outback, at least, other than a scuff on the rear bumper cover, only distinguishable from the other scuffs by a bit of blue paint from the trailer's side panels.

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toplitzin
Jun 13, 2003


I got the block out of the trunk of the WRX.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


...and put it in the living room, I see. Right on. Too hot out in the garage anyway.

Panty Saluter
Jan 17, 2004

Making learning fun!

Darchangel posted:

Got all four struts in the Outback done, despite 98F and 35% humidity. Good God that sucked. I *hate* sweating, and the humidity absolutely insured I was soaking wet within 30 minutes or so. Had to go inside and take a shower/AC break half-way through. Kinda want to go back to AZ/NM where sweat worked and you could just drink a lot of water.
Rest of the suspension looks good, as do brake pads/rotors, CV boots, and such I could see. Really happy with this car.

I swapped out all four struts on the Integra a few years back in similar conditions. No shade in a hot rear end parking lot too. Took me the best part of a couple days, especially since I have a ton of rusty bolts (the electric impact driver was a real lifesaver) and had never done it before. I was almost in tears by the end, I was so beat

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, I was doing similar work on my C10 in the garage and even with the shade, I could only work for so long before I was swimming in sweat and wiped the gently caress out. Multiple breaks / multiple showers with a day of wrenching like that.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Panty Saluter posted:

I swapped out all four struts on the Integra a few years back in similar conditions. No shade in a hot rear end parking lot too. Took me the best part of a couple days, especially since I have a ton of rusty bolts (the electric impact driver was a real lifesaver) and had never done it before. I was almost in tears by the end, I was so beat

Car lived in Washington, Arizona, and now TX (for all of 3 weeks...) so thankfully absolutely zero rust. I did get slightly smarter and put up my 10' x 10' canopy with a bedsheet side-wall on the sunward side (since it was evening and the sun was low, but still burninating) when I went back out to do the fronts, which helped immensely.
By the time I was done with the rear struts, I'm sure the neighbors thought I was a raving rage monster. Did not help that my driveway slopes just enough to make things difficult. Like using a jack to compress the rear strut enough to put the bot through the lower eye into the control arm. It kept jacking at an angle instead of going up straight, until I got clever and compensated for the angle by moving my start point.

Also, I'm amused that Chrome is not flagging "burninating" as spelled incorrectly.


IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, I was doing similar work on my C10 in the garage and even with the shade, I could only work for so long before I was swimming in sweat and wiped the gently caress out. Multiple breaks / multiple showers with a day of wrenching like that.

If I can get the garage empty enough to put in a car, even temporarily, and therefore for a Max Jax, I will purchase said Max Jax. I already have an AC unit in the window of the garage...
For those that don't know, a Max Jax is a low-lift (about 4') portable 2-post hydraulic lift. I don't have enough ceiling height to go any higher, and most bigger lifts are taller than my ceiling to start with.
For $1700 (at Jegs), I'll take one, to save my old rear end. I'll get a real lift when I get a real shop. Within the next decade, God willing.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I didn't even have to go through the effort of lifting it, it's been on jackstands for a long rear end time. It's just that loving hot in the garage.

During the day it's better than working in the driveway since it's shaded, but at least some nights it seems like it takes forever to cool down compared to open air in the driveway. Either way I'm just going to power through enough work to get the truck on its wheels again and then probably take a break from unnecessary automotive work for a month or so.

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
No kidding on the heat, I've been putting off installing a new gas tank in my suburban due to it. My garage has a lovely AC unit that somehow works after being left outside for a year then falling out of a second story window but the truck is just too tall for my garage.

I guess it's time to replace my 89 VW's radiator that sprung a leak in the aluminum on the backside instead of the 30 year old plastic side tanks because VW and install some hatch carpeting I got at the junkyard. I swear I'm always fixing it but it really is the most complete of my projects.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, I was doing similar work on my C10 in the garage and even with the shade, I could only work for so long before I was swimming in sweat and wiped the gently caress out. Multiple breaks / multiple showers with a day of wrenching like that.

I was looking at coolshirts, but i think i would probably need one of the industrial strength ones like for horses.

Bass Ackwards
Nov 14, 2003

Anything can be used as a hammer if you try hard enough.

Ferremit posted:

11yrs I've owned it?

You’ve had it 11 years? I remember your first post about it.

*looks at my reg date*

Where the frigging hell has that fifteen and a half years gone?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

New (Continental EXTREME CONTACT Sport) tires that I probably shoulda done 2 years ago. Old ones still had tread but it turns out 8-9 years of winter/summer heat cycling on Goodyear F1 Supercars takes its toll.

Practically feels like a new car. I think the old tires were just rock hard and I think these are probably better tires anyway.



I had stopped by Les Schwab and they quoted me 1400 or so but said their supplier didn't have the front tires (265/40/19) listed in their inventory so they'd have to make sure they could get them. They called me Monday and said they'd ordered them but turns out the price was 16xx and I said "lol okay no thanks" and the guy was like "wait, what, I already ordered em you said you wanted em" and I said "yeah I wanted em for 200 dollars less" and hung up and went on Discount Tire and got them for $1315 and they had them in stock within 24 hours, got them installed this afternoon with no appointment.

gently caress Les Schwab is what I'm saying.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

What nobody worked on their poo poo this weekend? Doubtful! :justpost:

Two years ago I sold my XRS to a co-worker. His son didn't like it, and I finished my work rotation that involved having a work truck I drove home, so last week I bought it back. This week/weekend I:

-got it insured/tagged/title in the mail
-changed oil/filter (only done 3k in 2 years lol... Same oil and filter I had on it)
-re flowed the solder joints in the dash clock so it works again
-bought a boatload of parts that are now OTW
-cleared up the headlight lenses
-probably fixed an annoying rattle that pre-dated my original ownership (door panel clip hanging out inside the passenger door)
-got my tools installed and strapped down
-cleaned up, inside and out. It's a solid ten footer :v:


It sits level, back tire is just in a low spot. I'm going to install new shocks soon anyway tho'

Autoexec.bat
Dec 29, 2012

Just one more level
I mean I changed a vacuum check valve in my Volvo 960's smog pump system and zip tied the pump back in place while I wait for replacement mounts to arrive.

Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jul 29, 2019

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

I did her first wash, clay, and sealant in a few months. The drive from Annapolis to Boston and back didn't do her any favours, lots of embedded bugs. But she's glass smooth now. Ceramic coated the exhaust tips. Swapped the plate brackets between front and back.



Modus Man
Jun 8, 2004



Soiled Meat
Shop wanted $1,000 to replace the evaporator on our 2003 Suburban. So I replaced the evaporator on my 2003 suburban. The one they want you to remove the entire dash to get to. But I didn't. Just removed the glove box and took an oscillating tool the the plastic housing of the evaporator and presto, out and in in less than an hour. I just hope the Gorilla tape I used to put the housing back together holds up for a couple years.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





If it doesn't, foil tape held up for years on my WJ in a similar repair.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Uh, I put 10.1 miles on it between filling up Friday evening and 9am this morning. I also ate lunch in it a few times at work (since work shuts off the HVAC at night.. and my AC is icy cold). Farted in it a few times. Didn't think any of that was worth posting about until asked though. :v:

angryrobots posted:

Two years ago I sold my XRS to a co-worker. His son didn't like it, and I finished my work rotation that involved having a work truck I drove home, so last week I bought it back. This week/weekend I:

-re flowed the solder joints in the dash clock so it works again

Any specific solder joints, or just touch all of them? Are they obviously cracked? GF's clock is mostly dead. It keeps time fine when it actually does light up, but it rarely lights up anymore (when it does, it's really dim). Hers is an 05 base, but I assume they're the same across all 1st gens. Smacking the dash has absolutely no effect.

I can solder okay-ish, I just haven't done it in a long time. But I'd rather give it a shot myself instead of paying a random eBayer $50.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jul 29, 2019

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I wired up some marker lites on the flatbed, and welded some hogrings up for wire management, changed the oil while I was at it, and used a transfer pump to prime the fuel pump on the passenger side tank. It was a pretty productive couple of hours overall.

I also picked up a kill switch for the Galaxie so preserve the battery but I haven't gotten around to mounting it yet.

Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT
Broke off a loving stud. Goddamn day.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

STR posted:

Uh, I put 10.1 miles on it between filling up Friday evening and 9am this morning. I also ate lunch in it a few times at work (since work shuts off the HVAC at night.. and my AC is icy cold). Farted in it a few times. Didn't think any of that was worth posting about until asked though. :v:


Any specific solder joints, or just touch all of them? Are they obviously cracked? GF's clock is mostly dead. It keeps time fine when it actually does light up, but it rarely lights up anymore (when it does, it's really dim). Hers is an 05 base, but I assume they're the same across all 1st gens. Smacking the dash has absolutely no effect.

I can solder okay-ish, I just haven't done it in a long time. But I'd rather give it a shot myself instead of paying a random eBayer $50.

I did all the resistors, and the pins that go to the display itself. Dunno exactly where the problem was, but that did the trick. I never really soldered, so you should be fine.

Don't worry, a NOS clock is only like $300. :q: ...A Corolla clock of the same generation is like $15.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Well, I wired up some USB and 12V power points to put back in when I install a new stereo, since the original smoked itself when I put it back in after testing my adapter for the factory amp (I think part of the broken internal CD changer came loose and shorted something - the radio itself still works). Had Discount Tire fix a flat (well, my wife did) which still leaked. Found out today it was a puncture in the sidewall, so New Tire time. Said new tires cost slightly more than I paid for the car...
Also put in a new cabin air filter. Here's the old one:

:stonk:
I think it did it's duty.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

angryrobots posted:

I did all the resistors, and the pins that go to the display itself. Dunno exactly where the problem was, but that did the trick. I never really soldered, so you should be fine.

Don't worry, a NOS clock is only like $300. :q: ...A Corolla clock of the same generation is like $15.

And the NOS clock will have the same problem eventually. :v:

I'll pull it on my next day off and put a multimeter on the resistors to see if they're still in spec. If they are, I'll just touch up the pins and resistors and see what happens.

e: just pulled up a video, didn't realize that it had those itty bitty resistors. Looks like I'll be buying a much smaller tip for my soldering iron (if I can even find the fucker). And probably get one of those freestanding magnifiers, since my eyes don't focus up close like they used to. :corsair: Looks like it has a conformal coating, did you have any issues with that?

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Jul 30, 2019

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Had to buy cobolt drill bits to even hope to get the drat brake pad pin that's fused with my brembos out. Thankfully it's on the inside, so it won't be seen but jesus what a bad design.

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
Did the oil and fuel filters on my 6.7 cummins tonight. Was smart enough this time to drain the rear filter. Was not smart enough to disconnect the WIF sensor and instead spent 20 minutes on my back under the truck loving around with the rear NOx sensor connector.

No visible leaks but still has an extended crank after sitting so I hosed up somewhere.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




rdb posted:

No visible leaks but still has an extended crank after sitting so I hosed up somewhere.

Usually means drop in fuel pressure, maybe failing diaphragm on FPR. Full disclosure: To me diesels are in the category :iiam:

Combat Theory
Jul 16, 2017

rdb posted:

Did the oil and fuel filters on my 6.7 cummins tonight. Was smart enough this time to drain the rear filter. Was not smart enough to disconnect the WIF sensor and instead spent 20 minutes on my back under the truck loving around with the rear NOx sensor connector.

No visible leaks but still has an extended crank after sitting so I hosed up somewhere.

does the diesel filter have a hand pump? did you prime it according to the service instructions? if its self priming via the circulation Pump then its normal to take a few more cranks after you changed diesel filters.

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?

Suburban Dad posted:

Usually means drop in fuel pressure, maybe failing diaphragm on FPR. Full disclosure: To me diesels are in the category :iiam:

If a diesel wont start its not getting fuel, so your right there. I think it just had air in the system. I drove it around a bit and it started normally this morning, and again at lunch just now.

Combat Theory posted:

does the diesel filter have a hand pump? did you prime it according to the service instructions? if its self priming via the circulation Pump then its normal to take a few more cranks after you changed diesel filters.

I think all cummins equipped rams from 98+ have some sort of electric pump. And to answer the second part, no, it wasn’t properly primed. I had my wife get in it since I was filthy and start it. She just turned the key and let it crank. The part that concerned me is the next start was ok, it sat for 10 minutes and had an extended crank, next start ok, sat for 20 minutes had extended crank. I think it just had a lot of air in it.

glyph
Apr 6, 2006



This weekend I,

* Fixed the right side tailgate light on my e61 so it can be inspected. I didn't take a single picture. I'm not proud of what I did (ran wires across from the other side- the ground was good- to the non working side), but it's reversible and will get the thing on the road so I can figure out what's REALLY wrong with it. Mercifully, everything else running through the problematic tailgate hinge wiring scheme nonsense works. Oh, and somehow, by jumpering over from the [functioning] left side the 'right reverse light' warning on startup cleared itself. :iiam:

* Went to the junkyard to get a rear module for the grandmother-in-law's '00 Lesabre that I've been bombing around in. Having reverse lights, power locks and the air suspension back working has made that car bearable.

* Found and towed home a $600 [Local-ish], same year, same color, accord with a blown motor, yet running enough to maneuver around the driveway, to scavenge parts from to rebuild the accord I wrecked a month ago, necessitating the buick in the first place. I figure I can scrap it and sell the converter and recover close to have the $600 (+ another $50 for the dolly from uHaul) I have in it. This will be a fun one- I know nothing about airbag/belt tensioner swapping, or even if I need to code the new (used) airbag module to the ECU, but hey, figuring that poo poo out is half the fun, right? :shepicide:



Two cars enter! One Car leaves! :getin:

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




rdb posted:

If a diesel wont start its not getting fuel, so your right there. I think it just had air in the system. I drove it around a bit and it started normally this morning, and again at lunch just now.


I think all cummins equipped rams from 98+ have some sort of electric pump. And to answer the second part, no, it wasn’t properly primed. I had my wife get in it since I was filthy and start it. She just turned the key and let it crank. The part that concerned me is the next start was ok, it sat for 10 minutes and had an extended crank, next start ok, sat for 20 minutes had extended crank. I think it just had a lot of air in it.

The 2nd part is the weird part. All the air should be out after the first start. Leaky injectors or FPR (if that's even a thing with the high pressure DI systems on that truck?) perhaps?

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


rdb posted:

Did the oil and fuel filters on my 6.7 cummins tonight. Was smart enough this time to drain the rear filter. Was not smart enough to disconnect the WIF sensor and instead spent 20 minutes on my back under the truck loving around with the rear NOx sensor connector.

No visible leaks but still has an extended crank after sitting so I hosed up somewhere.

With my old 5.9 i had a leak that allowed the fuel to drain back into the tank if it sat for more than a day, fuel wouldn't leak out but air would leak in when it wasn't under pressure. I would have to cycle the key a few times to let the lift pump run before it would start. Ended up being an o-ring for me, but if you just hosed with stuff, It's more likely just a filter gasket not seated properly or something.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

glyph posted:

This will be a fun one- I know nothing about airbag/belt tensioner swapping, or even if I need to code the new (used) airbag module to the ECU, but hey, figuring that poo poo out is half the fun, right? :shepicide:

I'm fairly sure it does not need to be coded; but you need to make sure everything that tripped is replaced before you hook up the battery with the module swapped (so impact sensors, tensioners, airbags, etc).

I'm not 100% on this; the 7th gen Accord was when they started getting fancy with the electronics (not counting the immobilizer).

madeintaipei
Jul 13, 2012

Went to adjust my mirror on the Savanna cube truck today and it fell right the gently caress off the truck (in heavy traffic, whoop). Luckily there is a brand new O'Reilly's across from one of my stops. Got the kit for a three-strut wide-angle mirror, which made the whole thing very easy. Threw the manager some product off the truck (snacky things for the employees) and he gave me a poo poo-ton of swag. Slapped the mirror on and of course the mirror struts are too thick for the 1 inch bolts they give you. gently caress it, got it on minus the upper strut and bought 2 1/2 inch bolts from Lowes when I got home to fix it correctly. Slightly less lovely than stock now.

Mundane, huh? If you do have to use a mirror kit to replace a strut-mounted truck mirror, buy a longer bolt if you intend to leave the original struts in place! Also, magnetized beer coozies are almost as nice as magnetized parts trays.

Colostomy Bag
Jan 11, 2016

:lesnick: C-Bangin' it :lesnick:

Nothing like waiting on parts for multiple projects. When some of them come in sealed/tear off ziploc silver bags it makes you wonder wth am I dealing with.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
I didn't do it, as I'm currently waiting to be discharged from my surgery, but my dad got the hitch and exhaust we were working on finished today. Welded square tubing into a hitch frame and drilled it for Grade 8 hardware. This is so that dad can pull his golf cart to the Tri-Five Nationals. When he gets back, we can pull the bolts out and store the hitch. Ended up cutting up my old Corvette exhaust and putting the tips on this car.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Those tips look good. Custom hitch is A+.

hattersmad
Feb 21, 2015

In this style, 10/6
I’ve had gnarly water spots building on the back window for years. Tried a bunch of things that didn’t work, and finally bit the bullet to try my hand at using a claybar. Definitely works, but it took like four hours and there are still some water spots left. Overall waaayy better than it was, though. If any of you have tips let me know.

Before



After

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


There are purpose made glass polishes that would probably clean it up quicker.

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...
I think it was KakerMix that said he uses 0000 steel wool for water spots. I bet meatpimp can chime in with something as well.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


madeintaipei posted:

Went to adjust my mirror on the Savanna cube truck today and it fell right the gently caress off the truck (in heavy traffic, whoop). Luckily there is a brand new O'Reilly's across from one of my stops. Got the kit for a three-strut wide-angle mirror, which made the whole thing very easy. Threw the manager some product off the truck (snacky things for the employees) and he gave me a poo poo-ton of swag. Slapped the mirror on and of course the mirror struts are too thick for the 1 inch bolts they give you. gently caress it, got it on minus the upper strut and bought 2 1/2 inch bolts from Lowes when I got home to fix it correctly. Slightly less lovely than stock now.

Mundane, huh? If you do have to use a mirror kit to replace a strut-mounted truck mirror, buy a longer bolt if you intend to leave the original struts in place! Also, magnetized beer coozies are almost as nice as magnetized parts trays.

Congrats, you just made a new friend. We've got a dude who brings in expired little debbies from his truck when he comes in. 10/10 best customer, will bend over backwards for him. Also, protip: those magnetic drink coozies work best after a swig or two out of them.

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Wasabi the J
Jan 23, 2008

MOM WAS RIGHT

hattersmad posted:

I’ve had gnarly water spots building on the back window for years. Tried a bunch of things that didn’t work, and finally bit the bullet to try my hand at using a claybar. Definitely works, but it took like four hours and there are still some water spots left. Overall waaayy better than it was, though. If any of you have tips let me know.

Before



After


Steel wool and a little water+vinegar.

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