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    Something different today! A converted Hotwheels car for use in Gaslands by Ospray games. So much fun to make something a Mad Max style car with spare stuff I had from other kids and stuff found around the house. Had a ball with it!
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Apr 24, 2018 14:10
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dexefiend posted:Insert roofing nail into power drill, dip him head first into Minwax Polyshades Tudor stain/varnish combo all the way to the top of the base. Remove him from stain, put him in the interior of a cardboard box and spin off the Minwax until it has the right amount left*. dexefiend posted:dipped Skaven (relatively squeaking).  tehsid posted:Something different today! A converted Hotwheels car for use in Gaslands by Ospray games. So much fun to make something a Mad Max style car with spare stuff I had from other kids and stuff found around the house. Had a ball with it!
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Apr 24, 2018 14:10
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berzerkmonkey posted:Noice. Have you played Gaslands yet? me and another guy are thinking about it for the group. I haven't yet! I'm going to make 6 or so cars up over the next week or so and take it to my FLGS to play with some people. It looks super neat and converting is fun, so even if it doesn't take off, I've enjoyed making the cars.
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Apr 24, 2018 14:29
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berzerkmonkey posted:I've never done the drill method, myself. Do you find it just as easy (though, I assume, faster) than the brush on method? Either way, you still have to mop up the excess, so I'm curious... With the drill, I am probably at 90 seconds per model, regardless of nooks and crannies, right? Some portion of that time is picking up the model, tightening the chuck, untightening the chuck, putting the model back on the cardboard painting stand. The Minwax is not nice to paintbrushes either. It is polyurethane varnish, and needs to be cleaned with mineral spirits. I like it because it is so repeatable. That Bloodsecrator was my extra one, and I just wanted to see if it worked... It worked! Even with a model with sizeable amount of plastic far from the spinning axis (force increasing the further you get from the axis). The Bloodsecrator was primed Duplicolor Red Sandable Primer (super close to German Rotbraun). Skin was airbrushed VGA Barbarian Flesh (not close at all to AP Barbarian Flesh). Plates and boots were painted VMC Black Grey, pants P3 Beast Hide, leather P3 Bootstrap Leather, bones P3 Jack Bone. I was trying to get to 100 models in two weeks, but I stopped at 98 due to a professional exam. Note: P3 paints have really been kicking rear end for me on this project. I wish I had all of them.
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Apr 24, 2018 14:34
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Schadenboner posted:I never really got what dipping is either (other than I know it's a high-speed painting method that assholes apparently don't like and bitch endlessly about how it's the ruin of the crafte). At least around here I'm not aware of anyone who's actively criticized the technique. Personally I think every method is valid. The main advantage that it offers is enabling painters to take a relatively flat model and quickly shade it. There's a lot of different ways to apply it; in addition to dexefiend's drill technique you can paint it with a brush you don't particularly care about. If I ever did Tyranids I would likely give the technique a shot, maybe with an added layer of drybrushing or something to add some highlights. The biggest challenge with dipping (as I understand it, to be clear I've only read up on the technique and not applied it) is similar to any washing technique; there's a careful balance between too little and too much. That's why a lot of methods either rely on brushing or (in the case of dexefiend) use a follow-up pass to clean up the excess. Another side effect of the polyurethane coating is that it tends to have a high sheen. Applying a matte coat can address that if you want. The urethane coating itself is a really good protector.
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Apr 24, 2018 14:54
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I am testing Duplicolor Matte Wheel Coating and Testor's Dullcote. Dullcote is wonderful, but comes in small bottles. The Bloodsecrator used Dullcote, the previously pictured Bloodreaver is Wheel Matte.
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Apr 24, 2018 15:03
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dexefiend posted:I am testing Duplicolor Matte Wheel Coating and Testor's Dullcote. Dullcote is wonderful, but comes in small bottles. Army painter matte spray is pretty good and comes in full size cans.
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Apr 24, 2018 15:20
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P3 paints VJ airbrush metals GW washes ~Namaste~
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Apr 24, 2018 15:26
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tehsid posted:
Looking good! I did the same for my Oath last month:    I have a handful of other Hotwheels (and Notwheels) to convert up sometime. berzerkmonkey posted:Noice. Have you played Gaslands yet? me and another guy are thinking about it for the group. I've had the one game. It was fun and the manoeuvre templates work pretty well, though in typical Osprey fashion some of the rules felt a little clunky, and it felt the advantages of being in a high gear by far outweighed the disadvantages. Then again that may change with more games.
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Apr 24, 2018 15:46
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Dipping is great for organics like Tyranids and those Khorne dudes. Don't listen to grogs.
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Apr 24, 2018 15:53
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Do people still dip models using furniture varnish? i.e. is that what Army Painter is selling for thirty loving dollars? seems like a good way to bulk paint stormtroopers, if you don't mind their armor looking a little lived in.
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Apr 24, 2018 15:58
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Deviant posted:Do people still dip models using furniture varnish? i.e. is that what Army Painter is selling for thirty loving dollars? dexefiend mentioned Minwax, so that's what I'd assume. IDK if the army painter stuff is different but I doubt it given they sell a lot of repackaged products.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:10
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:dexefiend mentioned Minwax, so that's what I'd assume. IDK if the army painter stuff is different but I doubt it given they sell a lot of repackaged products. Oh, so he did.. I *was* looking for an excuse to buy a new cordless drill.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:24
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This is the dream right here.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:34
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:dexefiend mentioned Minwax, so that's what I'd assume. IDK if the army painter stuff is different but I doubt it given they sell a lot of repackaged products. It's exactly the same stuff. I did a comparison with a couple of Zombicide minis:   I can't remember which was which, but I will say that the difference was negligible at best, and could be chalked up to how I moved the stain around while sopping up the excess. At any rate, one is $30 and one is $7 - you can make a value judgement and determine which makes more sense to you. Booley posted:Army painter matte spray is pretty good and comes in full size cans.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:34
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berzerkmonkey posted:It's exactly the same stuff. I did a comparison with a couple of Zombicide minis: Minwax on the left. Army Painter on the right.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:38
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Cat Face Joe posted:Minwax on the left. Army Painter on the right. Found the original photos - you are correct. Red shoes is Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut Gloss. If I remember, Minwax was slightly thicker out of the can, but that really didn't make a difference in terms of application. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 24, 2018 16:54
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X-posting girlyman: 
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Apr 24, 2018 17:06
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:X-posting girlyman:  That cape is incredible, and he looks way cooler with that helmet.
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Apr 24, 2018 17:22
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:X-posting girlyman: So much nicer than 40K rowboat. I wish I could make my greens that vibrant.
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Apr 24, 2018 18:18
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berzerkmonkey posted:I've heard the GW varnish is great as well, but there is the huge markup (though Testors isn't cheap either...) I use the Liquitex Matte varnish through my airbrush without any thinning and it works great. Just be careful about pooling since it's a bitch to fix. TTerrible posted:Don't listen to grogs.
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Apr 24, 2018 18:28
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Funk and WAGNALL that's a fine looking cape!!
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Apr 24, 2018 18:33
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  Dipping works great for historical miniatures too. I used the same shade (MinWax Polyshades Antique Walnut Gloss) for all of my WWII minis (US, DAK, and 8th Army so far). I don't actually dip the mini like dexefiend, I apply it with a brush lovely old brush. That gives me more control and lets me avoid areas I don't want to shade (the light green bits on my DAK dudes, for instance). It took a little practice to get it right, but now I'm fairly consistent and super fast. It only takes me about 30 seconds per dude, and the results look great on the tabletop. My recipe is prime gray, basecoat, wash with MinWax, spray with Dull-Cote, black + gunmetal, finish bases, final Dull-Cote seal. Super easy.
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Apr 24, 2018 19:16
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Posting my borderline finished Reavers everywhere. 
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Apr 24, 2018 19:42
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Electric Hobo posted:Posting my borderline finished Reavers everywhere. These guys are living their best lives.
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Apr 24, 2018 19:55
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Ilor posted:
The final matte finish makes such a difference, those look fantastic. What are the basecoats on the top minis? I've been looking for a combination of khaki, green, and wood like that for a while.
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Apr 24, 2018 20:15
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Is there any good reason my 0 brush would dry frayed after being used once? Didn't get any paint up into the ferrule, kept it rinsed. It forms a point wet, but dries rough. Both were used in about the same way, and I find it hard to believe I've damaged it after one use. Deviant fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 24, 2018 20:47
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They'll frizz a bit when they dry out. Moisten it before you start painting to put a tip on it, and when you're done, get just a little brush soap on there to keep it conditioned while you're not using it.
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Apr 24, 2018 21:13
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Did you use hot water to clean out the brush?
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Apr 24, 2018 21:17
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grassy gnoll posted:They'll frizz a bit when they dry out. Moisten it before you start painting to put a tip on it, and when you're done, get just a little brush soap on there to keep it conditioned while you're not using it. Oh, ok. I thought I might have done something to damage it. MasterSlowPoke posted:Did you use hot water to clean out the brush? Nope, cold tap water. Same for both brushes.
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Apr 24, 2018 21:18
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Deviant posted:Is there any good reason my 0 brush would dry frayed after being used once? Didn't get any paint up into the ferrule, kept it rinsed. It forms a point wet, but dries rough. Possibly a bad brush - it happens. You might want to contact the seller or W&N about it and explain the situation.
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Apr 24, 2018 21:22
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Deviant posted:Is there any good reason my 0 brush would dry frayed after being used once? Didn't get any paint up into the ferrule, kept it rinsed. It forms a point wet, but dries rough. This might help you: http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/627-brush-repair-gel.html
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Apr 24, 2018 21:33
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I havent posted here in years, but I do still paint occasionally. Here are some Necromans, without finished bases as I need to airbrush them.    
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Apr 24, 2018 21:33
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PaintVagrant posted:I havent posted here in years, but I do still paint occasionally. Here are some Necromans, without finished bases as I need to airbrush them. Welcome back, man. Mans are looking good. Are the models brush work or airbrush? Also, I dig how grungy they look. Also holy poo poo those goggles are amazing, how did you do that?
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Apr 24, 2018 21:40
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Two Beans posted:This might help you: Duely noted, but I'm gonna talk to the company first, I wasn't abusive to this thing in any way.
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Apr 24, 2018 21:40
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Booyah- posted:The final matte finish makes such a difference, those look fantastic. What are the basecoats on the top minis? I've been looking for a combination of khaki, green, and wood like that for a while. The recipe for my US GIs is as follows (and in the order that I do it): Boots: VMC Flat Brown Gaiters: VMC German Camo Beige Pants: VMC US Field Drab Skin: VMC Flat Flesh Jackets: VMC German Camo Beige Web gear (canteen covers, packs, suspenders, gun slings): 3:2 mix of VMC Russian Uniform and VMC Pastel Green ^^^ (You could probably get away with VMC Khaki here, but it looked a little too tan/brown) Helmets & e-tool handles: VMC US Dark Green Helmet strap: VMC Flat Brown Gun stocks: VMC Mahogany Brown ----- !!!MinWax Magic!!! (Antique Walnut gloss) Testors Dull-Cote ----- Gun barrels and canteen caps: VMC Black Gun barrels: drybrush of Ral Partha Steel (but you could use any suitably dark metallic, there are loads out there). Optional: Dark metallic on any exposed buttons/snaps if you want those details to pop a little more (I don't bother) Eyes if you're feeling feisty (I'm a crackhead) So just a handful of colors and only a single mix. I was amazed how fast I could crank them out. Doing all the little web-gear straps is what takes the longest.
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Apr 24, 2018 22:01
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Zuul the Cat posted:Welcome back, man. Mans are looking good. Are the models brush work or airbrush? Also, I dig how grungy they look. Also holy poo poo those goggles are amazing, how did you do that? Thanks! No airbrush for the guys, but I will be airbrushing their bases. The goggles are done using the old GW "gem" method, basically start dark and highlight a few steps towards a bottom edge, then put a dark spot and a light spot next to each other in the opposing corner.
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Apr 24, 2018 22:07
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PaintVagrant posted:Thanks! No airbrush for the guys, but I will be airbrushing their bases. The goggles are done using the old GW "gem" method, basically start dark and highlight a few steps towards a bottom edge, then put a dark spot and a light spot next to each other in the opposing corner. That poo poo's looking good dude. You playing anything still?
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Apr 24, 2018 22:53
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Sup SJ, long time no see  I play A little malifaux, necromunda, some 40k with my son.
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Apr 24, 2018 22:58
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PaintVagrant posted:Sup SJ, long time no see Sick, good to hear. I'm still tempted by Necromunda, but I think I'll dive into Kill Team later this year. Glad to see you're still in the hobby, dude.
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Apr 24, 2018 22:59
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