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HF also has a 50pc set of "vampire" quick connects both blue and red for like $5. I almost poo poo myself thinking back on how much I've spent on them form Auto Zone over the years, they're like $0.75 each there.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 02:38 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 14:10 |
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My dad has a harbor freight drill press from the mid 1970's that still runs fine. Their 12 ton press is a decent buy as well, if a little flimsy.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 02:46 |
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Blooot posted:Weller makes quality inexpensive irons. It is worth spending more that $50 on one though. For car work, radioshack has a GREAT butane-powered iron. It's like 20 bucks, and it's really convenient. If you want to do temperature controlled electronics/SMD work, I really like the Xytronic-brand stuff that webtronics.com sells. About half the price of Weller stuff, and just as good. The 136ESD station is as good as anything I've used (including $400 metcal stations), and it's like 60 bucks. Oh yeah, and don't get the orange Weller station. It's not any better than a cheap radioshack iron plugged into a light dimmer.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 03:10 |
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RealKyleH posted:Harbor Freight Electronic Ear Muffs: I have a pair too, and agree. They're pretty cool. When I got them, I wore them around the house for a few hours, occasionally clapping to make them cut out. They're worth $10 just to play with like that.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 05:13 |
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Oh I should have mentioned that if you turn them up, you can hear better with them than your normal hearing. So for $10, you basically get to know what the blind hear like, but without that lovely being blind thing. Thats like having retard strength without being retarded (well some of you will still be retarded) for the low low price of only 10 dollars.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 05:56 |
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psychoEE posted:For car work, radioshack has a GREAT butane-powered iron. It's like 20 bucks, and it's really convenient. I have the radioshack butane iron as well. It's come in handy many times. The tip is pretty low quality and likes to gum up, but that's easily fixable. Mine came with a little torch head that's handy, too.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 06:05 |
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I love Harbor Freight, there's one a 5 minute walk from my house. I'm planning on learning how to weld when I start my Celica project this spring so they'll be getting even more money out of me when I buy a welder.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 09:34 |
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I doubt this will exist, but on the offchance - Anyone know of an inexpensive micro torque wrench? I bought the smallest one Harbor Freight had (1/4") when it was on sale a while back, but it doesn't go low enough for some jobs I've needed it for. Ideally I need something that can go to around 12 lb-in, but I'm guessing anything that low with any level of accuracy will be pricey?
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 14:52 |
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Taymar posted:I doubt this will exist, but on the offchance - Anyone know of an inexpensive micro torque wrench?
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 15:14 |
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sharkytm posted:Is it really necessary to apply 1 foot-pound precisely. You can do that with a screwdriver, just finger tight would be 1ftlb. Some clown on freshalloy forums was using a torque wrench on the interior trim pieces. I didn't believe it and had to look it up, but there are actual torque ratings on screws that hold up the center console.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 18:37 |
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Taymar posted:I doubt this will exist, but on the offchance - Anyone know of an inexpensive micro torque wrench? I've seen torque screwdrivers before, they have much lower settings. I havnt seen them at HF, and they looked kind of expensive. Maybe an electric screwdriver is more your speed. they turn slower, and have a lot less power than hand-drill style drivers. Somewhere I have an old one, its dead, I keep it because it has a nice big handle.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 18:41 |
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What exactly constitutes "inexpensive?" http://www.watcon.com/Catalog_Pages/Mini-Torque_Wrench.htm That's only $35 which seems like a deal to me.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 18:43 |
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Hypnolobster posted:What exactly constitutes "inexpensive?"
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 19:01 |
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Wwwwwhooops.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 19:02 |
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Nitrox posted:Why are you replacing all of your Dewalt tools all of a sudden? Since it's still got a good battery, one of the newer guys at work who is an installer's helper was interested in buying it, so I figured I'd give him a hookup deal on it. It's the least i could do since my drill and right angle drill were basically given to me by the dude I started out under. Also, I'm a tool whore and want new stuff.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 19:44 |
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Octavio Barnaby Sr. posted:I'd rather have one system with one battery type if possible, and all of my batteries save for one are weak. I make counter tops and install kitchens. So my cordless tolls don't get much abuse until those rare days when we have to rebuild 1/3rd of someone's house in less than a week. I have noticed that almost every electrician has a soft spot for Dewalt, while plumbers tends to stick with Milwaukee/Makita combos.
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# ? Mar 9, 2008 21:38 |
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I work in my family's commercial millwork and casework shop, so I do a little of everything involving woodworking, and I also do a lot of machine maintenance and random-rear end tasks. It's a 37 employee shop, so there's a lot of poo poo to fix in addition to my normal job, which is mostly building huge reception desks and nurses stations for hospitals, but I also end up doing a lot of the nicer, more furniturelike stuff we get, like built-in hardwood bookcases for law offices, complicated veneerwork and the shitload of red oak podiums I just finished with a bunch of applied crown molding and stuff on them. I also might be helping the guys we sub out installation to before too long, but I basically do everything from countertops to changing the head gasket in the forklift, and I work out of a rolling gangbox that I share, so my tools get beat to hell pretty quickly.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 02:18 |
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^^^^Your job sounds like fun. I picked up an HF angle grinder today, $18.99 on sale, can't beat that with a stick.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 02:32 |
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leica posted:^^^^Your job sounds like fun. Was it the blue one or the orange one? I got the blue electric one for $10 on super sale. No complaints.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 05:25 |
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Anyone ever use the GraBit ? http://www.official-tv-online.net/grab I've seen it on tv, and thought, looks like it probably works.. $20 seems a little high for 3 little bits.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 16:51 |
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RealKyleH posted:Was it the blue one or the orange one? I got the blue electric one for $10 on super sale. No complaints. I got the orange one (Chicago Tools) which is normally $30. Great deal at $18. I also got a pack of five wire wheels for $12.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 16:54 |
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hippynerd posted:Anyone ever use the GraBit ? If you've got a small screw with a stripped head, cut a slot in it with a Dremel and use a regular screwdriver. If it's a big bolt, drill + extractor.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 18:41 |
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Delivery McGee posted:More like "looks gimmicky as hell." I'd buy the Harbor Freight knockoff for $5, but I don't think it's worth $20. I agree. I have a friend who likes to buy every gimmicky tool he sees on TV. I'm sure he'll have one of these soon. I'll report back. I'll also take pictures of his hilarious collection of broken, useless tools!
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 18:51 |
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Delivery McGee posted:More like "looks gimmicky as hell." I'd buy the Harbor Freight knockoff for $5, but I don't think it's worth $20. This is one of the best uses of a dremel! that cut off wheel has saved my rear end from way too much work many times. Before I got a Dremel, I did that with a hacksaw, but hacksaw wont fit a lot of times. I usually avoid the problem entirely by just not re-using screws or bolts if they show too much wear. I'm all for simple tools that really solve problems.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 19:01 |
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In addition to ratcheting wrenches, I actually bought one of these at Princess Auto (basically a equiv of Harbor Freight) for $4 not expecting it to work worth a poo poo. But for $4, the thing worked loving awesome.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 19:02 |
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Hypnolobster posted:I agree. I have a friend who likes to buy every gimmicky tool he sees on TV. It's a good thing I haven't had cable for years, and have InediblePenguin to quickly drag me past the hardware department whenever we're in a Sears. To be fair, the Handi-Cut or whatever it's called is decently useful, and that thing with the orange handle was a lifesaver until I broke down and bought a socket to fit the only bolt I ever used it on. The wrench-thing has already been reviewed (sucks), the Robo-Grip pliers get a resounding "meh" (get some real ChannelLocks, ya lazy bum), and the big chrome thing I forget the name of is but useless (I never could keep it spinning properly). Edit because I took too long to take the picture: hippynerd posted:I usually avoid the problem entirely by just not re-using screws or bolts if they show too much wear. Also, I forgot to mention the worst-case scenario: Try to drill the head completely off, realize you don't have a big enough drill bit, chop it the rest of the way off with your three-pound hammer and Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Mar 11, 2008 |
# ? Mar 11, 2008 19:17 |
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Delivery McGee posted:I only buy gimmicky useless as-seen-on-TV Craftsman tools. Speaking of which, didn't they have a similar thing at one point? I've used similar cutters before, and they kicked rear end. I have some HF claw wrenches , they look totally usefull, but so far they have not delivered. I've used nail pullers to pulls screws from wood... it works.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 19:58 |
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Those handicuts are extremely useful for many things, but primarily for hose-cutting.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 21:47 |
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slidebite posted:In addition to ratcheting wrenches, I actually bought one of these at Princess Auto (basically a equiv of Harbor Freight) for $4 not expecting it to work worth a poo poo. http://www.speedbleeder.com/ More than $4, but worth it.
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# ? Mar 11, 2008 22:13 |
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Delivery McGee posted:The big chrome thing is a "speeder", and I haven't seen one in forever. I didn't think they were still made, cordless drills have made them pretty much obsolete. The idea is that you can use a deep well socket to run a nut down a long bolt by turning the deal like an old brace and bit.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 01:10 |
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hippynerd posted:Anyone ever use the GraBit ? I actually bought one of these to try. It worked... on the first screw. I think it wore out the cutting head after that. For the price, totally not worth it. You're supposed to be able to use a drill. There was no way in hell it was going to work with a drill. You just can't get the force behind it. I ended up using some pliers to clamp and slowly rotate the bit to extract the screw.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 01:57 |
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If you own a motorcycle, this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950190000P is not optional. You can usually pick these up on sale for around $65, and they are worth every penny. I actually keep mine in the basement (no garage) and use it on the sidewalk outside of my house. Beware, they are pretty drat heavy to carry around. I'm a big guy, and lugging this thing around will make me breath heavy.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 02:13 |
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c355n4: Thats disapointing, but kinda what I figured. One of these solved my problem today Rebuilding mitsubishi rear brake calipers was being a real bitch. The e-brake mechanism requires a special tool, and rebuilding the brakes requires taking the e-brake apart. Its weird and complicated, but you need to compress some washer like disks on a screw spindle, and leave the area open to put the parts in. Mitsubishi part number MB990666 is simply not available (the dealership doesnt carry it, none found availalbe, but a company can make me one (for like $75, and it takes over a month.)) The part kinda looks like a socket with about 1/3 planed off on each side. Getting frustrated with this stupid tool I asked how much it would be to have them rebuild my brakes, only to be told, nope, we cant do it for you, we dont have the tool. GRRRRR! I was albe to get it apart with a c-clamp, but that wasnt going to work to get it back on. The vice grips + C-clamp worked like a chmmp. It took a couple days, but I finally have freshly rebuilt break calipers. and it would never have happened if I had to rely on the dealership. hippynerd fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Mar 12, 2008 |
# ? Mar 12, 2008 02:45 |
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c355n4 posted:I actually bought one of these to try. It worked... on the first screw. I think it wore out the cutting head after that. For the price, totally not worth it. You're supposed to be able to use a drill. There was no way in hell it was going to work with a drill. You just can't get the force behind it. I ended up using some pliers to clamp and slowly rotate the bit to extract the screw. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952156000P Seems similar in theory to the Grabit. I've only had a chance to use it once - trying to remove a reverse hex head bolt that was on the brake rotor (98 Catera). Worked like a charm. However, I can't seem to get the drat bolt off the bit. A bench vise is on my christmas list.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 02:53 |
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B-Nasty posted:If you own a motorcycle, this http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950190000P is not optional. You can usually pick these up on sale for around $65, and they are worth every penny. I actually keep mine in the basement (no garage) and use it on the sidewalk outside of my house. Beware, they are pretty drat heavy to carry around. I'm a big guy, and lugging this thing around will make me breath heavy. My bike's exhaust hangs below the oil pan. No way to lift it with that. I use ratcheting tie-downs and some heavy-duty roofing braces. OSHA-approved.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 03:19 |
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Nitrox posted:H I didn't believe it and had to look it up, but there are actual torque ratings on screws that hold up the center console. Sounds like something BMW would spec. This reminds me of the 3mm preset torque allen wrenches in the datacenter at my work. Sun E4500 CPU blades came with them for installing the heat sink on the processor. Nice of them to throw that in, at $25000 a pop (circa 1999). There was a toolbox with dozens of these wrenches in one of the desks.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 06:10 |
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iscariot posted:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952156000P They need to make something like that, but with a regular screwdriver handle (preferably in the style of the Stanley Demo Drivers), so you can hammer it in to get a good grip. It should also have a square shank so you can turn it with a wrench. Stripped Phillips head? Phillips in so tight the driver cams out? Stripped square driver? Odd-sized Torx, and you're replacing it with a real screw? I'd buy a set. Speaking of odd-sized Torx, where can I get some smaller than T10? I run across a surprising number of screws that are the next size down -- most recently when busting the magnets of of a dead HDD yesterday morning. (I ended up doing the too-small drill bit + Stanley Demo Driver/3-pound hammer trick, since I didn't care about the screws or the case.) And on a completely unrelated note, has anybody ever bought cold chisels from Harbor Freight or Big Lots (preferably the latter, since there's one in town)? Because I need some. One last thing: What do they actually do at bearing supply shops? Because there are TWO of them here in town, and every time I drive past, I get a giggle out of thinking it's "bearing" like "fishing" and they sell Marlin Guide Guns and shotgun slugs. Obviously they're actually in the friction-reduction business, but there just doesn't seem to be enough of a market here to support two stores.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 08:34 |
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Delivery McGee posted:2nd tool from the right...it's a "Clench Wrench" and no matter what you may think, it actually has a place... Certain inner tie rod ends do not have a hex to spin them by in order to adjust the toe, but instead have splines, made to be grabbed by channel locks. Well, in really lovely situations (i.e. you work with me in the rust belt, doing alignments on rusty shitboxes) channel locks just cant grab it hard enough to turn it. The clench tightens more as you turn it, thus digging deeper into the splines and gripping really loving hard. Works like a charm. I'm not going to lie to you though, that is really the only thing it can grab. Slips like a wet vagina on glass with almost anything else.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 08:35 |
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Delivery McGee posted:Speaking of odd-sized Torx, where can I get some smaller than T10? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97517 or http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93916 ...have down to T4 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93388 ...has down to T8 in security torx. Sears has this: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00930527000P?keyword=torx ...but it only gets you down to T9.
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 14:42 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 14:10 |
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Delivery McGee posted:
I bought one of these a few months ago. Its alright for occasional use. And for 6 bucks I can't complain. Kobalt precision torx driver Has t4-t15 bits. Husky's version
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# ? Mar 12, 2008 14:52 |