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Don't forget to check how much air the fan actually moves... the more the better when it comes to stinky shits. The CFM is often unrelated to how much noise it makes.
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Jul 14, 2017 15:58
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Get yourself a fan that's so powerful, the air moves out of the bathroom at > mach 1, thereby evacuating any disagreeable sounds along with their accompanying odors. Sure, your bowel movement may sound like a window-shattering fighter jet low altitude flyby at the exterior vent, but thank goodness none of your company in the living room will know you pooped!
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Jul 14, 2017 16:00
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CharlesM posted:There's a really powerful Panasonic that's 2 sones instead of the 0.3 of the other ones. That'd be two problems solved in one. it is also like 300 cfm, that will suck your poo out the air before it hits the water
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Jul 14, 2017 17:05
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I don't know if there's a small motor thread. If there is I can't find it. In any event, I hit a rock with my riding mower and now it sounds like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpB8qgylUhw I have very little experience with riding mowers. Any idea how bad this is?
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Jul 14, 2017 17:21
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Spookydonut posted:If you're going to do ANY kind of cabling work get one that has a tone generator and a tone wand. A fox and hound set is cheap. I wouldn't want them tied up with my (way more expensive) cable tester. https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-...s=fox+and+hound
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Jul 14, 2017 17:30
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I don't know if there's a small motor thread. If there is I can't find it. Could be a hosed up blade, could be a hosed up belt, could be a hosed up pulley, could be a hosed up deck. Did you happen to, like, just look underneath?
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Jul 14, 2017 18:25
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I don't know if there's a small motor thread. If there is I can't find it. Disconnect your mower deck and flip it over. I'm guessing bent blade. If you busted a pulley mount you'd most likely have the mower belts coming off.
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Jul 14, 2017 18:54
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Yeah, that looks like a troybilt? Put a couple tubafours on the ground under the deck, lower it all the way down so it's resting on them. Unhook the belt from the PTO, unscrew the rod on the front, and pull the pins on each side, then slide it out from under the mower and take a look. New set of blades shouldn't even cost a hundred bucks for that mower. To remove the blades, you might need an impact driver if they're good and stuck. Use a block of wood wedged between the deck and the blade to keep them from spinning when you try to un/screw the nut. Bonus, while your deck is off, you got a sweet little ATV do drive around your neighborhood. DON'T LEAVE THE FRONT HANGER ROD IN WHILE YOU DRIVE AROUND WITH THE DECK OFF. It will get caught on something, bend, and be a pain in the rear end to straighten, and your mower will never mow evenly if you can't get it just right. Here's a video detailing how to remove the deck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQ4PSKUEXGU I guess I forgot you gotta remove a belt retainer and the PTO cable. It's been a while since I sold my troybilt.
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Jul 14, 2017 19:25
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SoundMonkey posted:it's gonna be on a whole lot, my house is an elaborate rube goldberg machine of ventilation and touching one thing sets off a butterfly-effect where now it's too hot to sleep upstairs Depending where you live, whole house fans can be awesome. If you have cool nights with low humidity a whole house fan can make a house very comfortable with much less electricity than air conditioning. But someone is heading into the attic to if you went with a whole house solution and you need to have a well vented attic (which isn't always the case with older homes.) Bathroom fan 110CFM ($30-$150) Whole House fan 6000CFM ($300 to $500)
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Jul 14, 2017 19:46
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Slugworth posted:Agreed. SoundMonkey, lemme have your old fan when you remove it. i am disappointed to report that while being cheap and bad, it is also quiet HycoCam posted:Depending where you live, whole house fans can be awesome. If you have cool nights with low humidity a whole house fan can make a house very comfortable with much less electricity than air conditioning. But someone is heading into the attic to if you went with a whole house solution and you need to have a well vented attic (which isn't always the case with older homes.) i mean i'm going to replace this piece of poo poo either way but that's good to look into, thanks. downside is that there aren't ducts to upstairs. also lol @ my attic ventilation, there's 3 vents along the top but nothing any lower than the absolute top of the roof, because air can come from nowhere but still move outwards i guess?
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Jul 15, 2017 03:00
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I have a sliding glass door to my mostly unfinished basement. I leave the house through this door in the morning because it is where I keep my bicycles, but there is no locking mechanism that I can lock from the outside when I leave. Our other sliding door has a sort of mortise lock that is exposed on the outside, so that a keyed lock could be installed, but this one does not; it just has a latch mechanism that hooks into the interior side of the door frame. Are there any other ways I could set this up so that I can lock the door behind me, short of replacing the door? 
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Jul 16, 2017 18:09
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SoundMonkey posted:
There aren't any soffit vents? That's bad.
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Jul 16, 2017 18:16
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I'm installing a bar on my deck, and due to some wacky framing, the notches cut into the bar to fit into the corner posts are offset. This leaves one end with a lot of weight far from the post. I'd like an elegant way to support this end. I've thought of a leg, but planing the curved side of the cedar bar would be tricky, and I doubt I could make the join look nice. I've thought an angled piece of wood might work, like a shelf bracket type thing, but maybe there's another way I'm missing? Would a lag bolt through the 4x4 post be strong enough to hold up the bar and keep it steady even if someone was leaning on it? I think I know the answer to that.The bar is being mounted 30 inches off the ground. It's roughly 13 inches wide, and varies in depth. Thank you for your brainstorms. I just stuffed it in place here, that's why it looks all janky.  
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Jul 16, 2017 22:13
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I'd put a long (8" at least) lag bolt through the entirety of the post and then into the bar. A 5/8" steel rod can support a lot more weight than you might think. You can countersink the bolt head so it doesn't protrude out the back of the post, which would make it a bit less visible. Just make sure the bolt isn't so long that it pierces through the entirety of the bar. I guess drilling the pilot hole would be a bit tricky though. Got a drill press?
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Jul 16, 2017 22:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:There aren't any soffit vents? That's bad. *has bedroom upstairs in july* i know
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Jul 16, 2017 23:29
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Soffit vents aren't hard to add. Drill 4 corners, connect the dots with a jigsaw then screw on a cover.
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Jul 16, 2017 23:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd put a long (8" at least) lag bolt through the entirety of the post and then into the bar. A 5/8" steel rod can support a lot more weight than you might think. You can countersink the bolt head so it doesn't protrude out the back of the post, which would make it a bit less visible. Just make sure the bolt isn't so long that it pierces through the entirety of the bar. I can't see using a drill press? I'd clamp that shelf in place like he's got it and use a bigass auger bit through both. Verrrry carefully. Maybe even pilot a hole with a 1/4" bit to make sure it's dead-on where you want the hole to go. You go augering with a 1/2" drill and a bigass bit, it tends to have a mind to wander. Or maybe not, softwood...
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Jul 16, 2017 23:42
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eddiewalker posted:Soffit vents aren't hard to add. Drill 4 corners, connect the dots with a jigsaw then screw on a cover. Yeah, but he's got a 2nd floor. If he can reach the overhang standing on the roof, that's one thing. I'd be reluctant to do that poo poo on a ladder.
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Jul 16, 2017 23:43
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yeah, but he's got a 2nd floor. If he can reach the overhang standing on the roof, that's one thing. I'd be reluctant to do that poo poo on a ladder. You could do the cutting from the inside and the screwing from the outside so you're not having to wrangle a jigsaw on a ladder
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Jul 16, 2017 23:53
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Buca di Bepis posted:You could do the cutting from the inside and the screwing from the outside so you're not having to wrangle a jigsaw on a ladder I don't think so, Tim. Unless he's got a 12-12 pitch or something. edit- actually a cordless jigsaw would make that * almost doable. I guess I'm not quite with all the cordless tools these days edit edit*
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Jul 16, 2017 23:55
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Mr. Mambold posted:I can't see using a drill press? I'd clamp that shelf in place like he's got it and use a bigass auger bit through both. Verrrry carefully. Maybe even pilot a hole with a 1/4" bit to make sure it's dead-on where you want the hole to go. You go augering with a 1/2" drill and a bigass bit, it tends to have a mind to wander. Or maybe not, softwood... I was imagining building some kind of support structure to hold the bar with the right angle, so you could guarantee that the drill press would make a hole with exactly the right angle. But that might be more trouble than just very carefully freehanding it. Especially since the hole would need to be drilled on one end of a fairly large, heavy piece of wood.
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Jul 16, 2017 23:59
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eddiewalker posted:Soffit vents aren't hard to add. Drill 4 corners, connect the dots with a jigsaw then screw on a cover. hi, i'm an old house *has soffits that are microscopically thin and solid wood and don't open into the attic* *has parts of attic that are inaccessible as far as anyone can tell* about the best i can hope for is doing one 4" vent at the base of the attic on either side of the house. i should have two each side but i can't think of a way to not make that look like poo poo on an otherwise featureless expanse of exterior wall.
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Jul 17, 2017 00:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd put a long (8" at least) lag bolt through the entirety of the post and then into the bar. A 5/8" steel rod can support a lot more weight than you might think. You can countersink the bolt head so it doesn't protrude out the back of the post, which would make it a bit less visible. Just make sure the bolt isn't so long that it pierces through the entirety of the bar. No drill press. I think I will try this, but shoot a whiskey first so my hands are steady (whiskey is nature's drill press). I'll get the strongest lags I can find, too. Once that's up, if it's still not steady I'll look at supporting it further. Precious little snowflake bar.
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Jul 17, 2017 00:52
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My loving jerkoff neighbors have allowed kudzu vines to grow rampant in their yards. I've been cutting them back whenever they creep through the fence, but I've noticed they have started making their way from tall trees over to my roofline. They're way too high up for me or my 18' ladder to reach. Any ideas other than pouring bleach or burning their yards to the ground? I don't want these vines destroying things up there.
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Jul 17, 2017 01:03
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Omne posted:My loving jerkoff neighbors have allowed kudzu vines to grow rampant in their yards. I've been cutting them back whenever they creep through the fence, but I've noticed they have started making their way from tall trees over to my roofline. They're way too high up for me or my 18' ladder to reach. Any ideas other than pouring bleach or burning their yards to the ground? I don't want these vines destroying things up there. Talk to them.
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Jul 17, 2017 01:04
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Gounads posted:Talk to them. I have, multiple times. They do not care.
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Jul 17, 2017 01:20
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Bylaw enforcement?
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Jul 17, 2017 01:21
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spray everything with roundup and just wonder what happened when their entire lawn dies
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Jul 17, 2017 01:36
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Bozart posted:spray everything with roundup and just wonder what happened when their entire lawn dies This one. Please please please.
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Jul 17, 2017 05:17
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am i mis-remembering an old thread here (some dipshit dumped several pounds of seeds in the woods or something) or isn't encouraging/permitting the spread of kudzu straight up illegal in some states?
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Jul 17, 2017 05:29
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Would a couple hundred pounds of road salt do the trick?
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Jul 17, 2017 05:51
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Sounds to me like you need to put on your all black body suit and do a little late night clandestine operation with the garden shears:Wikipedia posted:Crown removal Edit
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Jul 17, 2017 07:22
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Bad Munki posted:Sounds to me like you need to put on your all black body suit and do a little late night clandestine operation with the garden shears: Is there a kudzu ninja in the house? I don't know, honey.
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Jul 17, 2017 15:54
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Omne posted:I have, multiple times. They do not care. Offer to do the work for them? It's easier to work on their ground than on your roof.
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Jul 17, 2017 18:00
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That may be the only option. One neighbor is absentee, hes been cool with me trimming trees and stuff that come across the fence. The other refuses to speak about anything or get back to me, so I cut the trees anyway (took her 15 days to respond to a text message about it, which was 14 days after the work had been done). I tried to get up there with my ladder, but it's not tall enough.
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Jul 18, 2017 03:00
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Release goats in your neighbor's yard.
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Jul 18, 2017 21:16
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DavidAlltheTime posted:I'm installing a bar on my deck, and due to some wacky framing, the notches cut into the bar to fit into the corner posts are offset. This leaves one end with a lot of weight far from the post. I'd like an elegant way to support this end. I've thought of a leg, but planing the curved side of the cedar bar would be tricky, and I doubt I could make the join look nice. I've thought an angled piece of wood might work, like a shelf bracket type thing, but maybe there's another way I'm missing? Would a lag bolt through the 4x4 post be strong enough to hold up the bar and keep it steady even if someone was leaning on it? I think I know the answer to that.The bar is being mounted 30 inches off the ground. It's roughly 13 inches wide, and varies in depth. I'm installing the lag bolts today, and I'm a little worried about how much wood I'm taking out of the 4x4 post. I was to install two lag bolts, and I was hoping washers, but this will require me to cut out a 2x2 cross section of the post. Is that too much? It's a corner post holing up a roof made of 2x6s, 1x2s, and plastic panels. We get snow once or twice a year.
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Jul 19, 2017 00:50
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DavidAlltheTime posted:I'm installing the lag bolts today, and I'm a little worried about how much wood I'm taking out of the 4x4 post. I was to install two lag bolts, and I was hoping washers, but this will require me to cut out a 2x2 cross section of the post. Is that too much? It's a corner post holing up a roof made of 2x6s, 1x2s, and plastic panels. We get snow once or twice a year. Why do you want two lag bolts? One per post will be plenty. As you note, you sacrifice more strength due to removal of material than you gain by having redundant support. You can put hundreds of pounds on a 5/8" steel bolt and it'll be fine. I mean, I wouldn't take that as carte blanche to use a lag bolt to support your climbing harness or something, but for a cedar bar that weighs maybe 100 pounds, one bolt at each end will be just fine.
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Jul 19, 2017 00:58
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DavidAlltheTime posted:I'm installing the lag bolts today, and I'm a little worried about how much wood I'm taking out of the 4x4 post. I was to install two lag bolts, and I was hoping washers, but this will require me to cut out a 2x2 cross section of the post. Is that too much? It's a corner post holing up a roof made of 2x6s, 1x2s, and plastic panels. We get snow once or twice a year. Not sure exactly where these are going in, but look up FastenMaster products "thrulok" and "headlok". Home Depot has them. They are purpose built for deck construction basically, and apply a clamp load like nobody's business while being easy to install. The Thruloks do have a giant huge ugly nipple though, so if you can't hide one end this may not be desirable. Kinda related... What's going on at the base of the post that is nearest to the camera? Does that at least have framing against it on the inside? It looks like the rim joist is cut short and not actually connected through to anything... I realize this isn't up in the air or anything, but people are probably going to lean on that.
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Jul 19, 2017 02:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Why do you want two lag bolts? One per post will be plenty. As you note, you sacrifice more strength due to removal of material than you gain by having redundant support. Yeah, so I just put in one, and it felt super strong, but of course I had the two holes drilled already so I put the other one in just for fun. Raised by Hamsters posted:Not sure exactly where these are going in, but look up FastenMaster products "thrulok" and "headlok". Home Depot has them. They are purpose built for deck construction basically, and apply a clamp load like nobody's business while being easy to install. The Thruloks do have a giant huge ugly nipple though, so if you can't hide one end this may not be desirable. The Headlok would have been a good solution, I'll keep both of those products in mind for the future. Yeah, that post base is messed up and is the reason why the notches in the bar are offset. My buddy set the post in concrete and cut lumber so it was square only if the post sat in the very outer corner of the deck, instead of accounting for the normal framing that was wrapping around the deck. It literally made everything we did after it more work, and we should have redone it but we didn't realize the implications until we had gone too far. I didn't think there was a real structural risk to it though. It's set in a steel U that's embedded in the concrete, so I don't see it moving around much. Should I augment this corner in some way?
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Jul 19, 2017 02:39
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