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jamal posted:Not off the top of my head but you should be able to look it up on opposedforces.com Thanks Jamal, managed to find it. The cover is PN: 14788AA000 and the 2 clips are PN: 24236AA010.
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Apr 6, 2014 06:44
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So here is some Subaru bullshit for you. I was doing the fuel pump. This connector here (not my car) Here is what happened to mine when I took it off.  Looks like I'm going to have to replace that part of the line, which I assume means I have to drop the tank? 
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Apr 6, 2014 22:37
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Just got word that my wing is shipping from kognition only took 5 months and not full carbon like I wanted. Now if I could just get the trunk I ordered at the same time. Holdbrooks fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Apr 7, 2014 |
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Apr 7, 2014 00:02
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Changed the shifter joint on my forester today, started yesterday, but the outer roll pin was rusted in so badly. I tried heating it with my propane torch, but couldnt get it hot enough, the heat was spreading and melted the bushings out of it lol. anyways, took it to a buddies house today, and we used the acetelyne torch, got it out in 2minutes. So nice to have all new bushings in the linkage, and teh return spring back ;p Thanks for the help Jamal!
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Apr 7, 2014 00:53
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http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Subaru-Impreza-2003/SSE-AD-2660253/?Cr=1&sdmvc=1 What do you guys think of this car? I'm going to offer him less, but I know the guy who tuned it (CnJ), he's the place who I get my car serviced at and has a very good reputation in Brisbane, where I live. It's uncommon to drive past and not see atleast 1 rally car or several STIs/GTRs and sometimes a few Porsche GT3's getting work done there, they are pretty popular. The 2 main dudes there are ex rally mechanics and know their poo poo about Subarus. Apart from the center diff, what else is there that I should check?
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Apr 7, 2014 02:35
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Got a P0021 tonight on the way home with my Forester - noticed a bit of a rough idle leaving a store parking lot after a quick stop inside but it ran fine other than that all the way to work and then started fine and drove home normally. When I got about 4 miles from home, I got a CEL, pulled the code once I got home but the car seemed to run and idle fine. Going to check the turbo inlet banjo screen tonight, I'm right at 3750 on this oil, but I've been having Blackstone check my oil and the last oil change (after 5000 miles) was really clean. I'll probably change it anyway. I figure the turbo is getting up there in age - maybe around 100k on it. Maybe time for a new one? Doesn't seem to be hitting target boost - I just assumed I had a boost leak somewhere (was actually this coming weekend's project to track it down). The other alternative is the timing belt may have jumped a tooth. That shouldn't happen under normal operation, right? Edit: Turbo inlet banjo bolt already removed. List of possibilities getting more expensive. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Apr 8, 2014 |
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Apr 7, 2014 23:02
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Subaru-Impreza-2003/SSE-AD-2660253/?Cr=1&sdmvc=1 That's a steal for that price if it's well looked after.
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Apr 8, 2014 01:57
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Got a no-start condition with the Forester. Apparently it was running great earlier today, then was parked for maybe an hour, and when my mom went to start it to go back out it gave her the finger. The alternator is brand new, starter is a couple months old, battery is also only a couple months old. I took it back to have it tested, test said it was fine, pushing more CCAs than it is rated for in fact. Everything comes on like it should, starter relay clicks on and off like it should. All the connections between the alt, battery, and starter are good and tight with no corrosion. Fuses are good. I'm really at a loss here, and my DMM broke a couple weeks ago and I haven't had the money to replace it yet so I'm pretty much limited to what I can see and touch. Plus some fucker stole my jumper-cables so I can't even check to see if a little jump would help. 
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Apr 9, 2014 01:32
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Subaru-Impreza-2003/SSE-AD-2660253/?Cr=1&sdmvc=1 Interior Colour: Blaaack
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Apr 9, 2014 01:35
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Terrible Robot posted:Got a no-start condition with the Forester. Apparently it was running great earlier today, then was parked for maybe an hour, and when my mom went to start it to go back out it gave her the finger. The alternator is brand new, starter is a couple months old, battery is also only a couple months old. I took it back to have it tested, test said it was fine, pushing more CCAs than it is rated for in fact. Everything comes on like it should, starter relay clicks on and off like it should. All the connections between the alt, battery, and starter are good and tight with no corrosion. Fuses are good. Is the car turning over? Smack the starter. Fuel pump coming on?
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Apr 9, 2014 01:38
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always be closing posted:Is the car turning over? Smack the starter. Fuel pump coming on? Car is not turning over. I have tried smacking the starter with several different weights and flavors of blunt object. The fuel pump is coming on.
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Apr 9, 2014 01:52
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You able to turn the engine over by hand? (aka Did you make sure it's not seized)
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Apr 9, 2014 02:12
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daslog posted:You able to turn the engine over by hand? (aka Did you make sure it's not seized) It better loving not be seized, I will literally set this car on fire in my yard if this engine poo poo the bed without any warning. As I said it was running flawlessly earlier today, has been ever since I dropped the new (to me) engine into it. It didn't even have any piston-slap. Gonna go check that right now, will report back. e: nope, not seized, it spins over easily. At this point I'm thinking the starter is just loving dead, or something else is broken that I can't see/check. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 02:18
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Push-start it. v v
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Apr 9, 2014 02:20
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Push-start it. v Tried that, no dice. quoting myself for anybody that missed the edit, although now I have no idea what the gently caress since push-starting it should bypass any starter fuckery. Terrible Robot posted:e: nope, not seized, it spins over easily. At this point I'm thinking the starter is just loving dead, or something else is broken that I can't see/check.
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Apr 9, 2014 02:38
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Dead IGN switch?
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Apr 9, 2014 03:03
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Ecu fuse or something stupid like that?
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Apr 9, 2014 03:19
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Chiwie posted:That's a steal for that price if it's well looked after. I offered 10 straight up, he said he'd take 11. I just have to wait a week or so to get it, I had stuff come up. Sudo Echo posted:Interior Colour: Blaaack The best colour.
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Apr 9, 2014 03:28
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Do you have a harbor freight near you? There's a coupon floating around for their shitbox DMM, no purchase neccessary. I'd pull it up, but herp derp mobile. My first guess would be relays/fuses after your troubleshooting.
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Apr 9, 2014 04:42
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McSpatula posted:Do you have a harbor freight near you? There's a coupon floating around for their shitbox DMM, no purchase neccessary. I'd pull it up, but herp derp mobile. I've got a cheap-rear end Innova coming in from Amazon, the nearest Harbor Freight/Northern Tool is over an hour away from me. I'm gonna do one last triple-check on all the fuses before heading to work this morning, but I've run out of time and tools to solve this at the moment. ssjonizuka posted:Dead IGN switch? I don't think it's this, as the starter relay clicks on when you turn the key to START, but who the hell knows. Bajaha posted:Ecu fuse or something stupid like that? It is probably something exactly as stupid as that, but all the fuses check out so far.
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Apr 9, 2014 11:46
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Could be a ground strap/wire issue.
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Apr 9, 2014 12:49
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^^^^ I could see it being something like that. In my (strictly unprofessional) mind - a dead ECU/fuse likely wouldn't cause it to even keep from trying to turn over. Either way, you're over my head - good luck.
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Apr 9, 2014 13:49
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I would try sending power from the battery to the starter solenoid. Pull off the connector plastic connector and carefully send it 12 volts. (we used to do this with a screwdriver lol) Make sure it's in neutral.
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Apr 9, 2014 15:19
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Jamal, How do I reach you outside of SA? I don't have PM's and forgot who you worked for. I'm planning on picking up a bunch of suspension/brake goodies for my bugeye soon and thought I'd come to you first!
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Apr 9, 2014 15:30
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Well great, stripped out the threads that hold the idler pulley in place(the last one you put on with the timing belt). Would any of you guys trust a regular helicoil or timecert to do the job?
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Apr 9, 2014 15:50
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emotive posted:Jamal, Peter @functionauto.com
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Apr 9, 2014 17:26
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I have a '13 WRX, and am entertaining the idea of upgrading some suspension components. I'm thinking swaybars and endlinks (no springs/coilovers, MA roads suck balls). What sizes should I look for if I want a fairly smooth ride that's flat in the corners?
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Apr 9, 2014 17:34
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What are any major issues to be aware of in a 2001 Legacy? Are these the headgasket cars? What are things to look for when test driving one? FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 20:45
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Slim Pickens posted:Well great, stripped out the threads that hold the idler pulley in place(the last one you put on with the timing belt). Would any of you guys trust a regular helicoil or timecert to do the job? I had a helicoil on my timing belt tensioner bolt with no issues, so I wouldn't worry about it.
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Apr 9, 2014 20:49
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Scrambles posted:I appreciate the advice, thanks guys. If anyone's been following my extremely sporadic posting in this thread, the tl;dr is gently caress cobb, so I'm going to these guys after I pay my loving taxes: http://www.awdtuning.com. Just a couple emails and I already get the impression that they treat their customers as more than checking accounts so I'm optimistic. Cobb's OTS tune (Stage 1 + SF, and Stage 2 + SF) for my car caused it to stall out at stop lights until it was warmed up. I got it dyno tuned, gained 60HP/ft-lbs at the low end, and it doesn't die on me anymore. So yeah, gently caress Cobb.
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Apr 9, 2014 21:34
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FogHelmut posted:What are any major issues to be aware of in a 2001 Legacy? Yes to headgasket car. You want papers for a headgasket + timing belt. Other things to look out for are rear quarter rust and rear subframe rust if you are in a rust stage/region. Open the rear doors and look at the bottom corner of the unibody, they like to rust there too. 5 speeds and 4eats are pretty robust and don't have issue. If you test drive it, take it on the highway to get it up to temp and make sure the center diff works. It will bind in tight parking lot turns after high temps. The upper lateral control arm things have lovely blown out bushings. Both of my cars have had hosed up rear camber. I fixed it on the 2nd car by putting in new control arms with bushings. They also like to throw an evap code because of rotten wiring above the charcoal box. Both of my 3rd gens have done it. If you have an obd2 scanner, check for emission readiness readiness. These cars are old enough the cats aren't working anymore. Seller will clear the codes and CEL won't come on for 30 miles, but the obd2 evap wont be ready on the computer. That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. My thread has plenty of third gen content both in sedan and wagon form, so if you haven't read that, that might have some bullshit that comes up with these cars.
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Apr 9, 2014 22:32
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Alas Subaru thread, I sold my 11 WRX and bought an Abarth. The savings were too good to really pass it up. That being said, I have a set of 16x7 black Enkei EDR9s with Blizzaks on them with about 10k miles and an Accessport that I was smart enough to uninstall that I'm trying to get rid of. I dunno if I should make an SA Mart thread for them or what, the wheels I'd really rather sell locally(New Jersey), but I'm putting it out there to you guys first. Edit: Wheel size Shrapnig fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 22:38
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Slow is Fast posted:Yes to headgasket car. You want papers for a headgasket + timing belt. As it turns out, they had no service records or other documentation. And the oil was suspiciously just changed. Pass. Thanks for the info.
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Apr 9, 2014 23:02
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Thanks for all the help trying to track down that no-start, it turned out to be an internally broken ground wire on the starter. Fun. Now if only the security lights would stop flashing. I tried using the unlock button on the remote, which is supposed to work. Nope. Replaced battery in the remote, tried again. Nope. Went looking for the programming button that's supposed to be under the dash next to the OBD port. It's not loving there, but there are quite a few unconnected plugs. So now I have to take this goddamn thing to Subaru to get the lights to stop blinking, unless there is a module or something I can disconnect to make them never loving come on again, because it is seriously irritating. gently caress you Subaru. edited for overabundance of F-bombs. Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Apr 9, 2014 |
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Apr 9, 2014 23:11
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Cluster isn't too difficult you take apart and remove/break that one LED, or you can use a piece of electrical tape placed between the light and the faceplate to hide the light. Simpler and easier than chasing down weird security issues, and no harm if you're not having any issues with the security system otherwise.
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Apr 9, 2014 23:14
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Terrible Robot posted:Thanks for all the help trying to track down that no-start, it turned out to be an internally broken ground wire on the starter. Fun. Mine was just hanging behind the dash and wrapped in tape. It's 2 brown wires.
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Apr 9, 2014 23:16
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Bajaha posted:Cluster isn't too difficult you take apart and remove/break that one LED, or you can use a piece of electrical tape placed between the light and the faceplate to hide the light. Unfortunately it's not a light on the dash, it's the parking lights/tail-lights. I would have already destroyed that bulb if that's all it was. daslog posted:Mine was just hanging behind the dash and wrapped in tape. It's 2 brown wires. I found 2 brown wires but they aren't attached to anything, it looks like whoever owned the car before me smashed the button, another thing to add to the list of poo poo I want to beat the poo poo out of the PO for. I tried connecting them together while turning the key but that didn't do anything either.
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Apr 9, 2014 23:23
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Terrible Robot posted:I found 2 brown wires but they aren't attached to anything, it looks like whoever owned the car before me smashed the button, another thing to add to the list of poo poo I want to beat the poo poo out of the PO for. I tried connecting them together while turning the key but that didn't do anything either. Those are the ones. Turn the key on first. Then connect the wires for at least one second. (I usually count to five) If that doesn't work, turn the key off and do it again. And again. And again.
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Apr 9, 2014 23:31
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daslog posted:Those are the ones. So I went back out to try again, reconnected the battery, aannndd the lights didn't start flashing. I have absolutely no idea why, but I'll take the win. This car is full of more weird gremlins than anything else I've ever owned, RX-7 included.
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Apr 10, 2014 00:22
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BoyBlunder posted:I have a '13 WRX, and am entertaining the idea of upgrading some suspension components. I have Whiteline 22s rear/front and endlinks on a '12 WRX and it was a pretty conservative leap in NVH. I've also been in a buddy's '09 WRX with 25s and that was outside of 'fairly smooth ride,' FWIW.
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Apr 10, 2014 01:13
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