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Blame Pyrrhus
May 6, 2003

Me reaping: Well this fucking sucks. What the fuck.
Pillbug
I have the stock exhaust on my 2013 STi, and I'm really wanting to swap it out for something better looking and with some loudness and tone.

If I'm wanting to keep it under a grand, is the Q300 a decent choice? I've been going back and forth between that and maybe the nameless axleback (with 5" mufflers).

I am not under any delusions about performance bumps, I expect performance will be exactly as it is now. This is purely for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons.

Also: For somebody who never does much more than regular maintenance (oil and brakes) and isn't completely dense, is swapping out the exhaust as easy as it looks? I assume I should make sure the flanges are perfectly flat, don't try to re-use any gaskets, and try to tighten up the bolts evenly. Stuff like that.

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CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Perpetual Hiatus posted:

So I've pretty much decided that I want a forester, my budget only stretches to early 2000's models (around $7k Aus). The thing is most of the cars I see for sale have a whole lot of kilometres on the clock - like 250000, and I am a bit worried about buying something that is gonna sting me hard unexpectedly.

Do you guys have any tips for buying something of this era - am I better off getting late 1st gen or early 2nd gen? I know about the timing belts are there any other things to be wary of? How do the automatic transmissions hold up?

I don't really know much about cars so any and all help much appreciated.

Early 2nd Gen should be resonably bullet proof - altho the Gen 1 we have is up to 320,000 kms and is pretty much fiiiiiine. We blew up the gearbox but that was because towing cars aint what it's designed for. I'm struggling to think of anything that's gone wrong with the Gen 1 TBH outside of driver inflicted wounds. It's a bit gutless but eh..... it still motors along.

McSpatula
Aug 5, 2006

Linux Nazi posted:

I have the stock exhaust on my 2013 STi, and I'm really wanting to swap it out for something better looking and with some loudness and tone.

If I'm wanting to keep it under a grand, is the Q300 a decent choice? I've been going back and forth between that and maybe the nameless axleback (with 5" mufflers).

I am not under any delusions about performance bumps, I expect performance will be exactly as it is now. This is purely for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons.

Also: For somebody who never does much more than regular maintenance (oil and brakes) and isn't completely dense, is swapping out the exhaust as easy as it looks? I assume I should make sure the flanges are perfectly flat, don't try to re-use any gaskets, and try to tighten up the bolts evenly. Stuff like that.

The q300 is nice in that it doesn't drone at highway speeds. The nameless 5" might be too loud for you; find a local meet, and see what the offerings sound like. Those two options are on every other newer WRX/STI in SoCal.

As far as the install, you may need a donut adapter for the stock downpipe, but other than that, you've got it down. Bolt it together, start her up, then spray down your connections with soapy water and look for leaks.

Yakattak
Dec 17, 2009

I am Grumpypuss
>:3

McSpatula posted:

The q300 is nice in that it doesn't drone at highway speeds. The nameless 5" might be too loud for you; find a local meet, and see what the offerings sound like. Those two options are on every other newer WRX/STI in SoCal.

As far as the install, you may need a donut adapter for the stock downpipe, but other than that, you've got it down. Bolt it together, start her up, then spray down your connections with soapy water and look for leaks.

Yeah, install should be cake on a car of that age. It was miserable on my bugeye.

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari

Yakattak posted:

Yeah, install should be cake on a car of that age. It was miserable on my bugeye.

If you lived in New England it would be even easier.

Step 1) Get out a big ratchet and 14mm/17mm sockets
Step 2) Intentionally snap in half every rusted bolt on the exhaust
Step 3) Sawzall the bolts you couldn't snap in step 2
Step 4) Buy new hardware
Step 5) Follow the instructions in the box from this point forward.

Yakattak
Dec 17, 2009

I am Grumpypuss
>:3

daslog posted:

If you lived in New England it would be even easier.

Step 1) Get out a big ratchet and 14mm/17mm sockets
Step 2) Intentionally snap in half every rusted bolt on the exhaust
Step 3) Sawzall the bolts you couldn't snap in step 2
Step 4) Buy new hardware
Step 5) Follow the instructions in the box from this point forward.

This is exactly what happened, but add a plasma cutter into the equation.

BoyBlunder
Sep 17, 2008

Linux Nazi posted:

I have the stock exhaust on my 2013 STi, and I'm really wanting to swap it out for something better looking and with some loudness and tone.

If I'm wanting to keep it under a grand, is the Q300 a decent choice? I've been going back and forth between that and maybe the nameless axleback (with 5" mufflers).

I am not under any delusions about performance bumps, I expect performance will be exactly as it is now. This is purely for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons.

Also: For somebody who never does much more than regular maintenance (oil and brakes) and isn't completely dense, is swapping out the exhaust as easy as it looks? I assume I should make sure the flanges are perfectly flat, don't try to re-use any gaskets, and try to tighten up the bolts evenly. Stuff like that.

I have the Nameless Axleback w/ 5" mufflers, and it's a tad bit loud, but I don't mind. My wife hates it. My infant daughter loves it.

If you're looking for some loudness and tone a bit over stock, I'd recommend the Nameless with the magnaflow muffler.

I love Nameless products, but be aware that it will take something like 2+ months for it to arrive. I ordered mine Jan 27, and didn't get it until the first week of April. Everything's custom made to order.

It's literally 2 bolts to remove the axleback, it's a piece of cake and took me about 1hr30 mins and I did it slow as gently caress. Most of the time (20-30mins) was trying to remove rusted bolts, and running to the store to get new ones (gently caress you New England and your salty roads). Also, I purchased the exhaust bushings, but didn't need them (car only has 16k mi on it).

BoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Apr 22, 2014

si
Apr 26, 2004
The exhaust bolts aren't threaded through the flanges or anything, so if you snap the head or the nut off, you should be able to just smack it with a hammer and knock the remains out. Worked for me when mine snapped, anyhow. I just took a screwdriver and a hammer and popped them out once the nuts snapped the ends off.

underage at the vape shop
May 11, 2011

by Cyrano4747
I want to live in a snowy place with a Subaru so I can laugh at my RWD friends but then rust. No thanks.

dayman
Mar 12, 2009

Is it a yes, or...
New summer wheels and my three year-old security system.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Wow, V7 goldies look amazing with San Remo Red. I wish I had a red Subaru, I just got my goldie UK17s back from the guy I sold my WRX to.

dayman
Mar 12, 2009

Is it a yes, or...

Seat Safety Switch posted:

Wow, V7 goldies look amazing with San Remo Red. I wish I had a red Subaru, I just got my goldie UK17s back from the guy I sold my WRX to.

Red and gold is a combination I like almost as much as the classic WRB and gold. UK 17's are great too, I ran them on my old swapped RS.

Fifty Three
Oct 29, 2007

si posted:

The exhaust bolts aren't threaded through the flanges or anything, so if you snap the head or the nut off, you should be able to just smack it with a hammer and knock the remains out. Worked for me when mine snapped, anyhow. I just took a screwdriver and a hammer and popped them out once the nuts snapped the ends off.
This depends on your downpipe, too. My eBay DP has the nuts welded on to the flange.

nutnmunch
Sep 19, 2007
get out.
Need a sanity check.

Went to a dealership near me over the weekend and test drove a 2015 STI. I told myself I wouldn't get something with an EJ (because ringlands) but you know how it goes. The car tickled me in all the right places.

Here's the thing: while it only had 15 miles on it, when I got there some other dude was test driving it, clearly giving no poo poo about anything. He pulled out of the place maybe a minute after the car was on, blasting through the gears.

So I have two worries that are making me want to back away:

1). Ringlands, still. I can't really figure out if they are ultra-common or just something that could potentially happen.
2). I'm worried damage was done to the car (i.e: flooring it before it got warmed up).

I've never owned a turbo car, but I've always been under the impression that gunning it before the engine is warm is, more or less, a great way to break poo poo fast.

For the record, I don't really have any interest in modding (outside of a catback, or axelback, because the stock car is very quiet), but I've read so many Subaru warranty denial stories that I don't know what the gently caress to believe (especially because I know the Subaru crowd is split between people who really know their poo poo and people who slam Monsters and argue on NASIOC).

edit: I realize the sane option is "get the WRX" but holy poo poo the 6 speed in the STI is really as good as they say it is

nutnmunch fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Apr 22, 2014

si
Apr 26, 2004
1) If you don't plan to mod it, this is not a problem. You really don't need to mod it, they're quite potent stock. If you do, this is a concern. Otherwise, warranty.
2) Don't buy that one, order another one. Tell them exactly why.

daslog
Dec 10, 2008

#essereFerrari
I would never buy an STI or WRX off the lot (unless the price was awesome), I would wait the 3 months and order one to my exact specializations. But I tend to be patient.

Gingerbread House Music
Dec 1, 2009

by FactsAreUseless
Lipstick Apathy
Brought my heads to work and scraped them clean. Can see light under the straightedge. :bang:

BoyBlunder
Sep 17, 2008

nutnmunch posted:


edit: I realize the sane option is "get the WRX" but holy poo poo the 6 speed in the STI is really as good as they say it is

WRX has the 6spd now too

dayman
Mar 12, 2009

Is it a yes, or...

Ozmiander posted:

Brought my heads to work and scraped them clean. Can see light under the straightedge. :bang:

Better than slapping them back together and just having to rip them out again.

Gingerbread House Music
Dec 1, 2009

by FactsAreUseless
Lipstick Apathy

dayman posted:

Better than slapping them back together and just having to rip them out again.

I'm sure a little compression boost will help make it a real rocket too.

Blame Pyrrhus
May 6, 2003

Me reaping: Well this fucking sucks. What the fuck.
Pillbug

BoyBlunder posted:

I have the Nameless Axleback w/ 5" mufflers, and it's a tad bit loud, but I don't mind. My wife hates it. My infant daughter loves it.

If you're looking for some loudness and tone a bit over stock, I'd recommend the Nameless with the magnaflow muffler.

I love Nameless products, but be aware that it will take something like 2+ months for it to arrive. I ordered mine Jan 27, and didn't get it until the first week of April. Everything's custom made to order.

It's literally 2 bolts to remove the axleback, it's a piece of cake and took me about 1hr30 mins and I did it slow as gently caress. Most of the time (20-30mins) was trying to remove rusted bolts, and running to the store to get new ones (gently caress you New England and your salty roads). Also, I purchased the exhaust bushings, but didn't need them (car only has 16k mi on it).

I'm in AZ actually, but there's a pretty large car scene here from what I can tell. I'm not really part of any owners group or anything though, I'll check out NASIOC and see if any regular meets happen or something. The general consensus on Q300 seems to be, at worst, that it "sounds pretty okay" which is a far sight better than stock. I might also look into the Cobb SS for the extra money though. Ugh, so many options...

From what I can read, the stock DP mates with the Q300 without the need for a donut gasket. I'll do a little more research though.

Now for another bonus question: I'm not too worried about bolting pipes together, but I am pretty worried about getting underneath the car safely. I have some wheel ramps I used to use for doing oil changes on my old WRX, they raise the car about 9 inches up, would backing up onto those give me enough room you think? Otherwise, does anybody have any tips on "how not to kill you are self with jackstands"?

I mean, it sounds like a dumb question I'm sure, but I was present when a raised jeep nearly crush a friend back in highschool due to idiotic placement of the jackstand, and it's made me forever paranoid about them. I didn't see it fall, but I got to participate in the calling the ambulance!

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Yes backing onto ramps should get you more than enough room. I usually recommend the q300, especially if you ever want to add on a downpipe and a tune because it is 3" at the downpipe flange vs Cobb and a few others which use a 2.4" donut gasket. It's worth a couple horsepower (like 15-20) to not have that restriction. Also I get pretty good pricing on invidia.

There is an adapter you can get but generally the catback seals up pretty well, especially if you turn the donut gasket around backward.

BoyBlunder posted:

WRX has the 6spd now too

Not "the" 6-speed, they get a 6-speed based off the 5-speed. Similar gear sizes and cable shifted.

jamal fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Apr 22, 2014

Blame Pyrrhus
May 6, 2003

Me reaping: Well this fucking sucks. What the fuck.
Pillbug

jamal posted:

Yes backing onto ramps should get you more than enough room. I usually recommend the q300, especially if you ever want to add on a downpipe and a tune because it is 3" at the downpipe flange vs Cobb and a few others which use a 2.4" donut gasket. It's worth a couple horsepower (like 15-20) to not have that restriction. Also I get pretty good pricing on invidia.

There is an adapter you can get but generally the catback seals up pretty well, especially if you turn the donut gasket around backward.


Good. If it's alright with you, I'll just order it from you and you can send me what I need!

si
Apr 26, 2004

jamal posted:

There is an adapter you can get but generally the catback seals up pretty well, especially if you turn the donut gasket around backward.

Speaking of this, I have an Invidia downpipe and SPT catback, and I'm using the GS adapter there. My flat gasket between the adapter and the downpipe keeps blowing out and leaking like crazy. Any tips for either a better gasket or why it's blowing out on me?

When I go to remove it, the only thing left is the two ears on the bolts, the entire rest of the gasket has just decayed and fallen away.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Are you using regular bolts or spring bolts? I think with spring bolts it is letting the connection flex and then blowing out the gasket. So if you're not, I would try some standard M10 bolts and then maybe stiffer hangers.

Wait, doesn't the spt catback connect with just the donut gasket?

BoyBlunder
Sep 17, 2008

Linux Nazi posted:


Now for another bonus question: I'm not too worried about bolting pipes together, but I am pretty worried about getting underneath the car safely. I have some wheel ramps I used to use for doing oil changes on my old WRX, they raise the car about 9 inches up, would backing up onto those give me enough room you think? Otherwise, does anybody have any tips on "how not to kill you are self with jackstands"?

I mean, it sounds like a dumb question I'm sure, but I was present when a raised jeep nearly crush a friend back in highschool due to idiotic placement of the jackstand, and it's made me forever paranoid about them. I didn't see it fall, but I got to participate in the calling the ambulance!

I used ramps to install mine - no issues with clearance.

quote:

Not "the" 6-speed, they get a 6-speed based off the 5-speed. Similar gear sizes and cable shifted.

This is good to know!

BoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 22, 2014

si
Apr 26, 2004

jamal posted:

Are you using regular bolts or spring bolts? I think with spring bolts it is letting the connection flex and then blowing out the gasket. So if you're not, I would try some standard M10 bolts and then maybe stiffer hangers.

Wait, doesn't the spt catback connect with just the donut gasket?

Yes, the invidia is a flat 3", the SPT is the standard 2.75 donut. I have the GS adapter, and a flat gasket between the invidia on the flat side, and the donut on the SPT side. I'm using 10.9 M10 x 1.25 x 60 hardware with split washers rather than the spring bolts (as GS suggested).

The donut side has been fine and doesn't leak, though if I take it apart again I suspect I'm going to have to replace it just from wear. The flat gasket keeps blowing out though. Makes sense that it might be from flex, but I have those bolts cranked down good and tight.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Oh, sorry, for some reason I completely missed the invidia DP part. In that case maybe the flanges aren't perfectly straight. Checking/sanding the flanges down might solve it, using a different gasket might help, stiffer hangers might help, or you could have the flange cut off the SPT exhaust and replace it with a 3" flat flange.

sarcastx
Feb 26, 2005



nutnmunch posted:

edit: I realize the sane option is "get the WRX" but holy poo poo the 6 speed in the STI is really as good as they say it is

I believe the primary difference between the "goodness" of the STI 6MT vs WRX 6MT is that the WRX is connected to the gearbox via a series of shafts/rods, and the STI gearbox is basically directly underneath the shift boot. And yeah, it does feel incredible - the STI that I drove didn't have the $395 "Short Throw" shifter, but I can't imagine it gets much better. Also the optional $169 shift knob is hilarious.

Naked Bear
Apr 15, 2007

Boners was recorded before a studio audience that was alive!

Linux Nazi posted:

Now for another bonus question: I'm not too worried about bolting pipes together, but I am pretty worried about getting underneath the car safely. I have some wheel ramps I used to use for doing oil changes on my old WRX, they raise the car about 9 inches up, would backing up onto those give me enough room you think? Otherwise, does anybody have any tips on "how not to kill you are self with jackstands"?

I mean, it sounds like a dumb question I'm sure, but I was present when a raised jeep nearly crush a friend back in highschool due to idiotic placement of the jackstand, and it's made me forever paranoid about them. I didn't see it fall, but I got to participate in the calling the ambulance!
Ramps are fine, just be sure to chock your front wheels.

If instead you want to use jackstands, they are perfectly safe as long as you're using common sense. Park the car on a fairly level surface, set the parking brake and leave it in gear. If I'm lifting the entire car, I like to jack up the front end first so that the parking brake will keep the car from rolling. If you only need to lift one end a little bit, again, it's a good idea to chock the wheels on the other end.



I like to jack up the front end first so that the parking brake will hold the rear wheels in place. Put your jack under the crossmember that is underneath the steering rack (red box on the left in image). Use some wood between the jack and the crossmember to prevent your jack from chewing it up. Get it up just enough to put jackstands under the lift points on the frame rails, then lower the front onto them. Repeat for the rear by jacking up the rear diff. If you want to lift the car more than just a couple notches on the jackstands, I'd recommend lifting each end a few notches at a time to avoid extreme angles.

Stands are stable, just don't go trying to lift your car onto the roof of your house with 'em. Getting the wheels a few inches off the ground is plenty enough room to do whatever you need under the car.

Blame Pyrrhus
May 6, 2003

Me reaping: Well this fucking sucks. What the fuck.
Pillbug

JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:

Ramps are fine, just be sure to chock your front wheels.

If instead you want to use jackstands, they are perfectly safe as long as you're using common sense. Park the car on a fairly level surface, set the parking brake and leave it in gear. If I'm lifting the entire car, I like to jack up the front end first so that the parking brake will keep the car from rolling. If you only need to lift one end a little bit, again, it's a good idea to chock the wheels on the other end.



I like to jack up the front end first so that the parking brake will hold the rear wheels in place. Put your jack under the crossmember that is underneath the steering rack (red box on the left in image). Use some wood between the jack and the crossmember to prevent your jack from chewing it up. Get it up just enough to put jackstands under the lift points on the frame rails, then lower the front onto them. Repeat for the rear by jacking up the rear diff. If you want to lift the car more than just a couple notches on the jackstands, I'd recommend lifting each end a few notches at a time to avoid extreme angles.

Stands are stable, just don't go trying to lift your car onto the roof of your house with 'em. Getting the wheels a few inches off the ground is plenty enough room to do whatever you need under the car.

Thanks for the diagram, the jack points were easy enough to pin down, but I was reading a lot of conflicting info on basically whether the pinch seams are an appropriate place to use the stands.

Ordered a couple chocks on amazon.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

I jack by the front jack plate and the rear diff and put stands under the pinch seams. When you let the car down onto the stands PUSH ON THE CAR A FEW TIMES. It shouldn't wiggle or move or fall off the stands. Then roll the jack under where you are working so should a stand falls the car will hit the jack and hopefully not crush you to death. Works fine for me.

BoyBlunder
Sep 17, 2008
Does anyone have any recommendations on an aftermarket throttle body hose for a '13 WRX? Mine keeps whistling, and I'm sick of bringing it to the dealership so that they can retighten it.

Braggo
Jul 26, 2005
All of this jack stand etc talk reminds me I need to suck it up and get a jack and jack stands since it's not realistic to use dad's anymore. Anyone have suggestions?

I do have a harbor freight nearby but not sure if skimping on things that hold the car up while I'm under it is the smartest idea.

si
Apr 26, 2004

Braggo posted:

All of this jack stand etc talk reminds me I need to suck it up and get a jack and jack stands since it's not realistic to use dad's anymore. Anyone have suggestions?

I do have a harbor freight nearby but not sure if skimping on things that hold the car up while I'm under it is the smartest idea.

As jack stands go, they're fine. The jacks are pretty good, but a bit sketchy. As long as you're using jack stands like you're supposed to, nothing to worry about. Unfortunately these days they are the exact same units you'll find at Sears or Autozone, etc. Just a different color. I actually have 2 Duralast stands and 2 HF stands, identical except one is red and one is blue.

There are some really nice floor jacks out there you can order if you want to spend the $$$, but for a nice one you can buy like 5 from HF.

underage at the vape shop
May 11, 2011

by Cyrano4747
A guy in my city recently died when he used lovely old jack stands that were never strong enough for his car because he thought he could just add the weight ratings on them together so make sure you don't do that.

Cadetcons
Aug 15, 2008
I've had an order in for a base 2015 WRX with a dealership in my area and they found one for me, gave me the VIN, and told me they were driving their swap car to the other dealership. Then after 2 hours of hearing nothing, I received a slew of messages explaining how they told the other dealership the wrong mileage on the swap, so they wouldn't do it. So now they are going back to trying to find me another car.

From the beginning, the salesman I've been working with has been excellent, but it feels like the dealership has been all over the place in terms of the information they've been giving me. Should I just sever with this dealer, and try to get another dealer to match the price they gave me ($25,500)?

I apologize if this is more a general car buying question, but is the price I'm getting with this dealer good enough to continue with them?

si
Apr 26, 2004

A Saucy Bratwurst posted:

A guy in my city recently died when he used lovely old jack stands that were never strong enough for his car because he thought he could just add the weight ratings on them together so make sure you don't do that.

I've never even seen jack stands that aren't rated for the entire wet weight of a Subaru.

Cadetcons posted:

I've had an order in for a base 2015 WRX with a dealership in my area and they found one for me, gave me the VIN, and told me they were driving their swap car to the other dealership. Then after 2 hours of hearing nothing, I received a slew of messages explaining how they told the other dealership the wrong mileage on the swap, so they wouldn't do it. So now they are going back to trying to find me another car.

From the beginning, the salesman I've been working with has been excellent, but it feels like the dealership has been all over the place in terms of the information they've been giving me. Should I just sever with this dealer, and try to get another dealer to match the price they gave me ($25,500)?

I apologize if this is more a general car buying question, but is the price I'm getting with this dealer good enough to continue with them?

Order one instead, there's no reason to buy a 2015 off a lot.

nutnmunch
Sep 19, 2007
get out.

Cadetcons posted:

I've had an order in for a base 2015 WRX with a dealership in my area and they found one for me, gave me the VIN, and told me they were driving their swap car to the other dealership. Then after 2 hours of hearing nothing, I received a slew of messages explaining how they told the other dealership the wrong mileage on the swap, so they wouldn't do it. So now they are going back to trying to find me another car.

From the beginning, the salesman I've been working with has been excellent, but it feels like the dealership has been all over the place in terms of the information they've been giving me. Should I just sever with this dealer, and try to get another dealer to match the price they gave me ($25,500)?

I apologize if this is more a general car buying question, but is the price I'm getting with this dealer good enough to continue with them?

I ordered a 2015 WRX Limited in February. Unfortunately, it was one of the "missing" cars, and my dealer has no idea if/when it is going to show up.

In my experience, you'll get a lot of dealers telling you a bunch of bullshit about how hot the cars are and how you can't get them at invoice. They are full of poo poo. You can find someone that will deal. Just call around. If you are really patient (it'll be two or three months now), call one of the forum dealers (on any of the Subaru forums) and order a car.

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Timmy Cruise
Jun 9, 2007
So I'm looking at a 2004 Forester tomorrow.

Other than:
- headgaskets (try to see if they look like MLS [is this possible?]/documented change, and check oil and coolant condition)
- CVs not noisy
- center diff
- transmission noises

What other major stuff should I look for? The car has lees than 130 k miles on it, so it could still be pre-headgasket change I am thinking.

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