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I have the stock exhaust on my 2013 STi, and I'm really wanting to swap it out for something better looking and with some loudness and tone. If I'm wanting to keep it under a grand, is the Q300 a decent choice? I've been going back and forth between that and maybe the nameless axleback (with 5" mufflers). I am not under any delusions about performance bumps, I expect performance will be exactly as it is now. This is purely for aesthetic and cosmetic reasons. Also: For somebody who never does much more than regular maintenance (oil and brakes) and isn't completely dense, is swapping out the exhaust as easy as it looks? I assume I should make sure the flanges are perfectly flat, don't try to re-use any gaskets, and try to tighten up the bolts evenly. Stuff like that.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 04:35 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 14:58 |
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Perpetual Hiatus posted:So I've pretty much decided that I want a forester, my budget only stretches to early 2000's models (around $7k Aus). The thing is most of the cars I see for sale have a whole lot of kilometres on the clock - like 250000, and I am a bit worried about buying something that is gonna sting me hard unexpectedly. Early 2nd Gen should be resonably bullet proof - altho the Gen 1 we have is up to 320,000 kms and is pretty much fiiiiiine. We blew up the gearbox but that was because towing cars aint what it's designed for. I'm struggling to think of anything that's gone wrong with the Gen 1 TBH outside of driver inflicted wounds. It's a bit gutless but eh..... it still motors along.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 06:34 |
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Linux Nazi posted:I have the stock exhaust on my 2013 STi, and I'm really wanting to swap it out for something better looking and with some loudness and tone. The q300 is nice in that it doesn't drone at highway speeds. The nameless 5" might be too loud for you; find a local meet, and see what the offerings sound like. Those two options are on every other newer WRX/STI in SoCal. As far as the install, you may need a donut adapter for the stock downpipe, but other than that, you've got it down. Bolt it together, start her up, then spray down your connections with soapy water and look for leaks.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 08:07 |
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McSpatula posted:The q300 is nice in that it doesn't drone at highway speeds. The nameless 5" might be too loud for you; find a local meet, and see what the offerings sound like. Those two options are on every other newer WRX/STI in SoCal. Yeah, install should be cake on a car of that age. It was miserable on my bugeye.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 11:31 |
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Yakattak posted:Yeah, install should be cake on a car of that age. It was miserable on my bugeye. If you lived in New England it would be even easier. Step 1) Get out a big ratchet and 14mm/17mm sockets Step 2) Intentionally snap in half every rusted bolt on the exhaust Step 3) Sawzall the bolts you couldn't snap in step 2 Step 4) Buy new hardware Step 5) Follow the instructions in the box from this point forward.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 11:55 |
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daslog posted:If you lived in New England it would be even easier. This is exactly what happened, but add a plasma cutter into the equation.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 12:03 |
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Linux Nazi posted:I have the stock exhaust on my 2013 STi, and I'm really wanting to swap it out for something better looking and with some loudness and tone. I have the Nameless Axleback w/ 5" mufflers, and it's a tad bit loud, but I don't mind. My wife hates it. My infant daughter loves it. If you're looking for some loudness and tone a bit over stock, I'd recommend the Nameless with the magnaflow muffler. I love Nameless products, but be aware that it will take something like 2+ months for it to arrive. I ordered mine Jan 27, and didn't get it until the first week of April. Everything's custom made to order. It's literally 2 bolts to remove the axleback, it's a piece of cake and took me about 1hr30 mins and I did it slow as gently caress. Most of the time (20-30mins) was trying to remove rusted bolts, and running to the store to get new ones (gently caress you New England and your salty roads). Also, I purchased the exhaust bushings, but didn't need them (car only has 16k mi on it). BoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Apr 22, 2014 |
# ? Apr 22, 2014 14:00 |
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The exhaust bolts aren't threaded through the flanges or anything, so if you snap the head or the nut off, you should be able to just smack it with a hammer and knock the remains out. Worked for me when mine snapped, anyhow. I just took a screwdriver and a hammer and popped them out once the nuts snapped the ends off.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 15:09 |
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I want to live in a snowy place with a Subaru so I can laugh at my RWD friends but then rust. No thanks.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 15:48 |
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New summer wheels and my three year-old security system.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 16:03 |
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Wow, V7 goldies look amazing with San Remo Red. I wish I had a red Subaru, I just got my goldie UK17s back from the guy I sold my WRX to.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 16:11 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Wow, V7 goldies look amazing with San Remo Red. I wish I had a red Subaru, I just got my goldie UK17s back from the guy I sold my WRX to. Red and gold is a combination I like almost as much as the classic WRB and gold. UK 17's are great too, I ran them on my old swapped RS.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 16:23 |
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si posted:The exhaust bolts aren't threaded through the flanges or anything, so if you snap the head or the nut off, you should be able to just smack it with a hammer and knock the remains out. Worked for me when mine snapped, anyhow. I just took a screwdriver and a hammer and popped them out once the nuts snapped the ends off.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 16:36 |
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Need a sanity check. Went to a dealership near me over the weekend and test drove a 2015 STI. I told myself I wouldn't get something with an EJ (because ringlands) but you know how it goes. The car tickled me in all the right places. Here's the thing: while it only had 15 miles on it, when I got there some other dude was test driving it, clearly giving no poo poo about anything. He pulled out of the place maybe a minute after the car was on, blasting through the gears. So I have two worries that are making me want to back away: 1). Ringlands, still. I can't really figure out if they are ultra-common or just something that could potentially happen. 2). I'm worried damage was done to the car (i.e: flooring it before it got warmed up). I've never owned a turbo car, but I've always been under the impression that gunning it before the engine is warm is, more or less, a great way to break poo poo fast. For the record, I don't really have any interest in modding (outside of a catback, or axelback, because the stock car is very quiet), but I've read so many Subaru warranty denial stories that I don't know what the gently caress to believe (especially because I know the Subaru crowd is split between people who really know their poo poo and people who slam Monsters and argue on NASIOC). edit: I realize the sane option is "get the WRX" but holy poo poo the 6 speed in the STI is really as good as they say it is nutnmunch fucked around with this message at 16:48 on Apr 22, 2014 |
# ? Apr 22, 2014 16:44 |
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1) If you don't plan to mod it, this is not a problem. You really don't need to mod it, they're quite potent stock. If you do, this is a concern. Otherwise, warranty. 2) Don't buy that one, order another one. Tell them exactly why.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 16:51 |
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I would never buy an STI or WRX off the lot (unless the price was awesome), I would wait the 3 months and order one to my exact specializations. But I tend to be patient.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 17:13 |
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Brought my heads to work and scraped them clean. Can see light under the straightedge.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 17:33 |
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nutnmunch posted:
WRX has the 6spd now too
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 17:49 |
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Ozmiander posted:Brought my heads to work and scraped them clean. Can see light under the straightedge. Better than slapping them back together and just having to rip them out again.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 17:50 |
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dayman posted:Better than slapping them back together and just having to rip them out again. I'm sure a little compression boost will help make it a real rocket too.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 17:56 |
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BoyBlunder posted:I have the Nameless Axleback w/ 5" mufflers, and it's a tad bit loud, but I don't mind. My wife hates it. My infant daughter loves it. I'm in AZ actually, but there's a pretty large car scene here from what I can tell. I'm not really part of any owners group or anything though, I'll check out NASIOC and see if any regular meets happen or something. The general consensus on Q300 seems to be, at worst, that it "sounds pretty okay" which is a far sight better than stock. I might also look into the Cobb SS for the extra money though. Ugh, so many options... From what I can read, the stock DP mates with the Q300 without the need for a donut gasket. I'll do a little more research though. Now for another bonus question: I'm not too worried about bolting pipes together, but I am pretty worried about getting underneath the car safely. I have some wheel ramps I used to use for doing oil changes on my old WRX, they raise the car about 9 inches up, would backing up onto those give me enough room you think? Otherwise, does anybody have any tips on "how not to kill you are self with jackstands"? I mean, it sounds like a dumb question I'm sure, but I was present when a raised jeep nearly crush a friend back in highschool due to idiotic placement of the jackstand, and it's made me forever paranoid about them. I didn't see it fall, but I got to participate in the calling the ambulance!
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 17:59 |
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Yes backing onto ramps should get you more than enough room. I usually recommend the q300, especially if you ever want to add on a downpipe and a tune because it is 3" at the downpipe flange vs Cobb and a few others which use a 2.4" donut gasket. It's worth a couple horsepower (like 15-20) to not have that restriction. Also I get pretty good pricing on invidia. There is an adapter you can get but generally the catback seals up pretty well, especially if you turn the donut gasket around backward. BoyBlunder posted:WRX has the 6spd now too Not "the" 6-speed, they get a 6-speed based off the 5-speed. Similar gear sizes and cable shifted. jamal fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Apr 22, 2014 |
# ? Apr 22, 2014 18:09 |
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jamal posted:Yes backing onto ramps should get you more than enough room. I usually recommend the q300, especially if you ever want to add on a downpipe and a tune because it is 3" at the downpipe flange vs Cobb and a few others which use a 2.4" donut gasket. It's worth a couple horsepower (like 15-20) to not have that restriction. Also I get pretty good pricing on invidia. Good. If it's alright with you, I'll just order it from you and you can send me what I need!
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 18:36 |
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jamal posted:There is an adapter you can get but generally the catback seals up pretty well, especially if you turn the donut gasket around backward. Speaking of this, I have an Invidia downpipe and SPT catback, and I'm using the GS adapter there. My flat gasket between the adapter and the downpipe keeps blowing out and leaking like crazy. Any tips for either a better gasket or why it's blowing out on me? When I go to remove it, the only thing left is the two ears on the bolts, the entire rest of the gasket has just decayed and fallen away.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 18:47 |
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Are you using regular bolts or spring bolts? I think with spring bolts it is letting the connection flex and then blowing out the gasket. So if you're not, I would try some standard M10 bolts and then maybe stiffer hangers. Wait, doesn't the spt catback connect with just the donut gasket?
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 19:02 |
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Linux Nazi posted:
I used ramps to install mine - no issues with clearance. quote:Not "the" 6-speed, they get a 6-speed based off the 5-speed. Similar gear sizes and cable shifted. This is good to know! BoyBlunder fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 22, 2014 |
# ? Apr 22, 2014 19:07 |
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jamal posted:Are you using regular bolts or spring bolts? I think with spring bolts it is letting the connection flex and then blowing out the gasket. So if you're not, I would try some standard M10 bolts and then maybe stiffer hangers. Yes, the invidia is a flat 3", the SPT is the standard 2.75 donut. I have the GS adapter, and a flat gasket between the invidia on the flat side, and the donut on the SPT side. I'm using 10.9 M10 x 1.25 x 60 hardware with split washers rather than the spring bolts (as GS suggested). The donut side has been fine and doesn't leak, though if I take it apart again I suspect I'm going to have to replace it just from wear. The flat gasket keeps blowing out though. Makes sense that it might be from flex, but I have those bolts cranked down good and tight.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 19:12 |
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Oh, sorry, for some reason I completely missed the invidia DP part. In that case maybe the flanges aren't perfectly straight. Checking/sanding the flanges down might solve it, using a different gasket might help, stiffer hangers might help, or you could have the flange cut off the SPT exhaust and replace it with a 3" flat flange.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 19:23 |
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nutnmunch posted:edit: I realize the sane option is "get the WRX" but holy poo poo the 6 speed in the STI is really as good as they say it is I believe the primary difference between the "goodness" of the STI 6MT vs WRX 6MT is that the WRX is connected to the gearbox via a series of shafts/rods, and the STI gearbox is basically directly underneath the shift boot. And yeah, it does feel incredible - the STI that I drove didn't have the $395 "Short Throw" shifter, but I can't imagine it gets much better. Also the optional $169 shift knob is hilarious.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 19:47 |
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Linux Nazi posted:Now for another bonus question: I'm not too worried about bolting pipes together, but I am pretty worried about getting underneath the car safely. I have some wheel ramps I used to use for doing oil changes on my old WRX, they raise the car about 9 inches up, would backing up onto those give me enough room you think? Otherwise, does anybody have any tips on "how not to kill you are self with jackstands"? If instead you want to use jackstands, they are perfectly safe as long as you're using common sense. Park the car on a fairly level surface, set the parking brake and leave it in gear. If I'm lifting the entire car, I like to jack up the front end first so that the parking brake will keep the car from rolling. If you only need to lift one end a little bit, again, it's a good idea to chock the wheels on the other end. I like to jack up the front end first so that the parking brake will hold the rear wheels in place. Put your jack under the crossmember that is underneath the steering rack (red box on the left in image). Use some wood between the jack and the crossmember to prevent your jack from chewing it up. Get it up just enough to put jackstands under the lift points on the frame rails, then lower the front onto them. Repeat for the rear by jacking up the rear diff. If you want to lift the car more than just a couple notches on the jackstands, I'd recommend lifting each end a few notches at a time to avoid extreme angles. Stands are stable, just don't go trying to lift your car onto the roof of your house with 'em. Getting the wheels a few inches off the ground is plenty enough room to do whatever you need under the car.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 21:08 |
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JDAMS CURE PASHTUN posted:Ramps are fine, just be sure to chock your front wheels. Thanks for the diagram, the jack points were easy enough to pin down, but I was reading a lot of conflicting info on basically whether the pinch seams are an appropriate place to use the stands. Ordered a couple chocks on amazon.
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# ? Apr 22, 2014 22:04 |
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I jack by the front jack plate and the rear diff and put stands under the pinch seams. When you let the car down onto the stands PUSH ON THE CAR A FEW TIMES. It shouldn't wiggle or move or fall off the stands. Then roll the jack under where you are working so should a stand falls the car will hit the jack and hopefully not crush you to death. Works fine for me.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 00:34 |
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Does anyone have any recommendations on an aftermarket throttle body hose for a '13 WRX? Mine keeps whistling, and I'm sick of bringing it to the dealership so that they can retighten it.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 00:43 |
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All of this jack stand etc talk reminds me I need to suck it up and get a jack and jack stands since it's not realistic to use dad's anymore. Anyone have suggestions? I do have a harbor freight nearby but not sure if skimping on things that hold the car up while I'm under it is the smartest idea.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 01:28 |
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Braggo posted:All of this jack stand etc talk reminds me I need to suck it up and get a jack and jack stands since it's not realistic to use dad's anymore. Anyone have suggestions? As jack stands go, they're fine. The jacks are pretty good, but a bit sketchy. As long as you're using jack stands like you're supposed to, nothing to worry about. Unfortunately these days they are the exact same units you'll find at Sears or Autozone, etc. Just a different color. I actually have 2 Duralast stands and 2 HF stands, identical except one is red and one is blue. There are some really nice floor jacks out there you can order if you want to spend the $$$, but for a nice one you can buy like 5 from HF.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 01:36 |
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A guy in my city recently died when he used lovely old jack stands that were never strong enough for his car because he thought he could just add the weight ratings on them together so make sure you don't do that.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 01:53 |
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I've had an order in for a base 2015 WRX with a dealership in my area and they found one for me, gave me the VIN, and told me they were driving their swap car to the other dealership. Then after 2 hours of hearing nothing, I received a slew of messages explaining how they told the other dealership the wrong mileage on the swap, so they wouldn't do it. So now they are going back to trying to find me another car. From the beginning, the salesman I've been working with has been excellent, but it feels like the dealership has been all over the place in terms of the information they've been giving me. Should I just sever with this dealer, and try to get another dealer to match the price they gave me ($25,500)? I apologize if this is more a general car buying question, but is the price I'm getting with this dealer good enough to continue with them?
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 02:12 |
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:A guy in my city recently died when he used lovely old jack stands that were never strong enough for his car because he thought he could just add the weight ratings on them together so make sure you don't do that. I've never even seen jack stands that aren't rated for the entire wet weight of a Subaru. Cadetcons posted:I've had an order in for a base 2015 WRX with a dealership in my area and they found one for me, gave me the VIN, and told me they were driving their swap car to the other dealership. Then after 2 hours of hearing nothing, I received a slew of messages explaining how they told the other dealership the wrong mileage on the swap, so they wouldn't do it. So now they are going back to trying to find me another car. Order one instead, there's no reason to buy a 2015 off a lot.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 02:41 |
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Cadetcons posted:I've had an order in for a base 2015 WRX with a dealership in my area and they found one for me, gave me the VIN, and told me they were driving their swap car to the other dealership. Then after 2 hours of hearing nothing, I received a slew of messages explaining how they told the other dealership the wrong mileage on the swap, so they wouldn't do it. So now they are going back to trying to find me another car. I ordered a 2015 WRX Limited in February. Unfortunately, it was one of the "missing" cars, and my dealer has no idea if/when it is going to show up. In my experience, you'll get a lot of dealers telling you a bunch of bullshit about how hot the cars are and how you can't get them at invoice. They are full of poo poo. You can find someone that will deal. Just call around. If you are really patient (it'll be two or three months now), call one of the forum dealers (on any of the Subaru forums) and order a car.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 04:09 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 14:58 |
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So I'm looking at a 2004 Forester tomorrow. Other than: - headgaskets (try to see if they look like MLS [is this possible?]/documented change, and check oil and coolant condition) - CVs not noisy - center diff - transmission noises What other major stuff should I look for? The car has lees than 130 k miles on it, so it could still be pre-headgasket change I am thinking.
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# ? Apr 23, 2014 04:26 |