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Pierzak posted:gently caress. As I feared, Krylon is not sold here in Poland. Any alternatives available in the EU? Maybe it has a differend brand name here (I know Testor's is sold here as Model Master)? Rust-Oleum is another one. Or sandable automotive spray primers. GW or Army Painter sprays are expensive but effective. The clear coat will help a lot.
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May 26, 2018 15:09
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Yeah it's good stuff. The biggest thing is making sure your environment is good for spraying. Low humidity in particular. Not even June yet, and we are at 90 degrees with 93% humidity. Back to #AirbrushSupremacy. Duplicolor Sandable Primer is so loving good for 6 dollars. Give it a shot, seriously. If you live elsewhere, go to an auto parts store, and ask for the best auto primer. They will know, and if car guys are putting it on their $10,000 toys, it will probably work well on our $100 toys. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 15:44 on May 26, 2018 |
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May 26, 2018 15:41
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I live in Florida where it rains every time I try to paint this time of year, so I have only ever brushed on varnish. Works very well.
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May 26, 2018 15:43
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Maybe they do rebrand everything as model masters in Poland, but AFAIK before your post Model Master is just Testor's airbrush paint and spray can brand.
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May 26, 2018 16:34
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Phi230 posted:I live in Florida where it rains every time I try to paint this time of year, so I have only ever brushed on varnish. Works very well. I run the Liquitex varnish straight through my airbrush. You have to be careful with pooling but with practice it makes an incredibly smooth finish.
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May 26, 2018 17:27
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I run the Liquitex varnish straight through my airbrush. You have to be careful with pooling but with practice it makes an incredibly smooth finish. Do you avoid the risk of like that snowy white film coming up?
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May 26, 2018 17:30
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Phi230 posted:Do you avoid the risk of like that snowy white film coming up? That's usually cause by humidity so I feel like airbrushing indoors reduces that risk, if anything.
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May 26, 2018 17:46
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Neurolimal posted:Maybe they do rebrand everything as model masters in Poland, but AFAIK before your post Model Master is just Testor's airbrush paint and spray can brand.
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May 26, 2018 18:22
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Model Master does a bunch of stuff in the US too (including glue and brushes and other assorted supplies), though I'm not sure how their clear coats compare to regular Dullcote. Still, I wouldn't even bother worrying about what primer to use to minimize chipping; I'd just put plenty of clear coat on top. Even with The Best Primer Ever, I don't think it'd change much unless you were dead-set on not clearcoating your figures.
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May 26, 2018 19:28
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My airbrush compressor got very hot and started making a bogging down sound, won't hold pressure and won't really start. What exactly happened and how can I fix?
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May 26, 2018 20:32
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Phi230 posted:My airbrush compressor got very hot and started making a bogging down sound, won't hold pressure and won't really start. What exactly happened and how can I fix? Is it tanked or a direct feed to your airbrush? How long did you run it for?
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May 26, 2018 20:33
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TTerrible posted:Is it tanked or a direct feed to your airbrush? How long did you run it for? Its a direct feed, ran it for about 15-30 minutes just to basecoat a tank I got yesterday. I didn't notice any problems until it started bogging down. Also it started smelling hot, like overheated metal maybe? Also it almost was burning to the touch. Phi230 fucked around with this message at 20:43 on May 26, 2018 |
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May 26, 2018 20:41
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It's this air compressor: https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-D500-Oilless-Compressor-Shutoff/dp/B000BQXPVE except I also have a moisture regulator. Could it just have overheated and this is the autoshutoff? Wait a few hours for it to cool down completely and try?
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May 26, 2018 20:42
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Phi230 posted:It's this air compressor: Its likely that it overheated. Wait a few hours and try again. Avoiding this is why you get a compressor with a tank, these motors are designed for a fairly low duty cycle and forcing it to run the entire time you're painting results in overheating.
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May 26, 2018 20:46
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Wow yeah it should not be too hot to touch. That overheated badly. The D500 manual doesn't mention a duty cycle, annoyingly.
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May 26, 2018 20:52
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I have spotty results with my airbrush and I always wonder if it's paint, technique or my entry level compressor.
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May 26, 2018 23:22
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Eifert Posting posted:I have spotty results with my airbrush and I always wonder if it's paint, technique or my entry level compressor. Does your compressor have a tank? Tankless compressors can have issues since air pressure will fluctuate. I use a cheap entry level master compressor with a tank and have no problems with it.
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May 26, 2018 23:33
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Ok so I left it to cool for several hours and tried running it again and it ran for a few seconds just fine however it still made that bogging sound, and when it made that bogging down sound the whole unit shook. It would continue to do this for about a minute before it stopped entirely and lost air pressure. Now when I turn on the power switch, it just humms very loudly. I think its dead. So I'm in the market for a decent compressor!
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May 26, 2018 23:55
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Avenging Dentist posted:Model Master does a bunch of stuff in the US too (including glue and brushes and other assorted supplies), though I'm not sure how their clear coats compare to regular Dullcote. Still, I wouldn't even bother worrying about what primer to use to minimize chipping; I'd just put plenty of clear coat on top. Even with The Best Primer Ever, I don't think it'd change much unless you were dead-set on not clearcoating your figures. Model Master dullcote works much better than the regular, in my experience. I’ve been much happier since I switched to it.
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May 27, 2018 00:03
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Phi230 posted:Ok so I left it to cool for several hours and tried running it again and it ran for a few seconds just fine however it still made that bogging sound, and when it made that bogging down sound the whole unit shook. It would continue to do this for about a minute before it stopped entirely and lost air pressure. Now when I turn on the power switch, it just humms very loudly. I think its dead. https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-20T-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-REGULATOR/dp/B0038D38AA According to Amazon I bought this 4 years ago. A few years I didn't use it too much, but for the last year I've been using it several times a week and other than overheating and shutting down once in the middle of last summer while I was airbrushing for 3 hours or so I haven't had a single issue with it. E: fail link
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May 27, 2018 00:14
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Couldn't find that page
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May 27, 2018 00:15
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Phi230 posted:Couldn't find that page I fixed the link
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May 27, 2018 00:16
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Just finished fist leviathan and contemptor #2. All the arms are magnetized of course.      All my big yellow bois: 
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May 27, 2018 00:55
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Booley posted:I fixed the link And I managed to (hopefully) fix the compressor! The piston only disconnected from the motor, I hooked it back up and it seems to be running fine after initial testing. I'm going to try to finish my project since I was literally in the middle of painting when it konked out. Hopefully this works now.
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May 27, 2018 01:03
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Phi230 posted:Do you avoid the risk of like that snowy white film coming up? mango sentinel posted:That's usually cause by humidity so I feel like airbrushing indoors reduces that risk, if anything. Airbrushing indoors eliminates the risk. I live in Southern MD so it's basically a swamp most of the summer, but since I airbrush indoors the environment never impacts my ability to paint.
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May 27, 2018 02:23
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So I'm just getting back into painting minis after not painting for about 10 years. I was planning on buying a ton of paints but then had both a car theft and a phone die, making it so my paint funds are diminished. I wanted to start painting regardless but will probably only buy a handful of paints to begin with. I will be using citadel paints to support my FLGS, are there any colors that tend to be "cornerstone" colors, or does it really depend on the project?
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May 27, 2018 15:18
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Cobaltshift posted:I will be using citadel paints to support my FLGS, are there any colors that tend to be "cornerstone" colors, or does it really depend on the project? What are you painting? The OP has a link to a post by Avenging Dentist that has a list of recommended paints (Not all are GW.) Watch Duncan's videos on YouTube, Warhammer TV.
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May 27, 2018 15:25
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dexefiend posted:What are you painting? I have a variety of minis: Myth, Legion, soon Infinity...etc. I was thinking of starting with the minis for Myth to get some practice painting before I do my Infinity guys. And will do! Appreciate the help.
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May 27, 2018 15:27
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Cobaltshift posted:I wanted to start painting regardless but will probably only buy a handful of paints to begin with. Don't rule out Walmart craft-section paints. More than a few that are my go-to choices, and they're something like fifty cents / bottle. Pick up a bunch to get started, then upgrade to your LGS's paints as you go. You'll discover which specialized colors you need, and it's a sensible way to build up a paint library.
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May 27, 2018 16:22
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but stay away from their metallics, imo.
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May 27, 2018 16:29
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Oops, yeah avoid craft metallics and bright yellows. They work ok over white primer, but I forget everybody uses black
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May 27, 2018 16:41
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Also good to know. Thanks! When I paint a mini should I try to get all of the detail done in a single session or two, or is it no big deal to come back later to add fine detail? Wasn't sure about potential dust or dirt being a concern....
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May 27, 2018 16:57
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Most of the crazy hyper detailed minis you see are usually done over many, many sessions. Acrylics dry fast enough that dust shouldn't be an issue. My 2cents: most white paints are extremely chalky especially when layered, if your model is going to be white it will be easier to either: 1. Prime in white Or 2. Work your way up to white using brighter colors first. Similarly, if you want super vibrant bright colors you should consider ink washes over white primer; I'd personally recommend Inktensity's set. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 17:36 on May 27, 2018 |
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May 27, 2018 17:33
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Cobaltshift posted:Also good to know. Thanks! When I paint a mini should I try to get all of the detail done in a single session or two, or is it no big deal to come back later to add fine detail? Wasn't sure about potential dust or dirt being a concern.... Most of my stuff is finished over a week or two. If you live somewhere particularly dusty, either use canned air or a makeup brush to clean them off if they've sat for a day or two.
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May 27, 2018 17:41
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moths posted:Oops, yeah avoid craft metallics and bright yellows. They work ok over white primer, but I forget everybody uses black I'm away from my paint desk at the moment so I forget the exact name/brand, but I think Folk Art has a line of metallics that are a bit more finely ground than the usual craft paint metallics are. They're only available at craft stores (Michael's, etc.) but they're still only a couple bucks for a 4 oz. bottle, so not too costly to experiment with. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 18:25 on May 27, 2018 |
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May 27, 2018 18:23
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E: quote is not edit, goddamnit
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May 27, 2018 18:24
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Cobaltshift posted:Also good to know. Thanks! When I paint a mini should I try to get all of the detail done in a single session or two, or is it no big deal to come back later to add fine detail? Wasn't sure about potential dust or dirt being a concern.... It takes me between 5 and 12 hours to paint a single model. Dust and dirt haven't really been an issue.
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May 27, 2018 19:07
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Completing my victory lap here. I'm really proud of this guy.Pendent posted:I was struck by inspiration tonight and painted an entire new Captain model in a single sitting. The spear will be a "counts-as" thunderhammer in game. Looking at the pictures there's a bit of touchup work to do on the left shoulder but overall this is the best miniature I've ever painted. I just wish I had a better lighting setup for pictures.
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May 28, 2018 08:05
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Pendent posted:Completing my victory lap here. I'm really proud of this guy. This guy looks great! The spear is both cool and fluffy as a blood angel.
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May 28, 2018 14:00
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I've got some second hand metal Infinity miniatures. Stripping them is driving me crazy. I soaked them in acetone for a bit, and then with a toothbrush the majority of the paint comes off almost immediately. The only things that remain are primer in some recesses (looking almost like a dark wash) and some of the drones that had crazy thick paint on them. So I sit them in acetone for the rest of the day. After that, no progress at all. So I let them sit in it overnight and most of the day. At this point they have been in acetone for probably 30 hours or so. Zero progress. I can't touch the primer in the recesses, and the drones still have nasty thick clumps of yellow in some parts. I've tried scrubbing with soap, with dishwashing liquid and toothpaste. I've tried acetone-loaded q-tips and toothbrush. Nothing. Toothpicks managed to scrape off a tiny amount, but almost everything is in recesses too narrow for it. What else can I do? Just sit it in acetone for another night? I've also got some IPA and some denatured alcohol I could try, but I assumed acetone would be more effective than those.
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May 28, 2018 15:41
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