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Does anyone sell pre-cut aluminum plates for the Ultimaker? I've been meaning to do this upgrade, but I'd rather have an almost all-in-one solution than have to source aluminum and then track down someone with a CNC machine to custom cut parts.
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May 24, 2013 07:09
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I wants my filastruder 
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May 24, 2013 15:53
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Mister Sinewave posted:The scene feels all "you don't HAVE to re-calibrate everything, you GET to!" I sometimes think I'm the only person who doesn't care about getting an extra few microns of detail or whatever. I'm not so much about getting extra microns of detail -- 0.1mm is more than enough for me, and 0.2 works 90% of the time -- but I do love the idea of installing other tools on the frame. Turn it into a PCB mill, turn it into a chocolate extruder, turn it into a plotter, turn it into an eggbot. To me that's the main selling point of a Reprap, and the clearance granted for that kind of experimentation by the MM2 frame is a big part of why I bought it. Geirskogul posted:But glass without damaging coldspots is possible. It's just noisy, costly, and twice the fire hazard. You can take a PCB bed heater, put a 3/16" aluminum heat-spreader plate on top of it, and put glass on top of that and get the best of all worlds.
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May 24, 2013 22:47
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Hay all you large-format print guys: http://www.bonanza.com/listings/Chromalox-Silicone-Adhesive-Mat-Heater-120V-1250-Watts-12-x-9-Inch/58608571 http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Qualit...=item53f92ada2b You can drive the SSR directly from the output of your electronics that normally drives the heated bed.
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May 25, 2013 00:24
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Just bought a Mendelmax 2.0 kit on the back an forth in this thread. While a 2X would be awesome, half the price and lots of Internet help tipped it. 4 weeks till shipment and I'll post a build report! Woo building stuff!
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May 25, 2013 15:09
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ptier posted:Just bought a Mendelmax 2.0 kit on the back an forth in this thread. While a 2X would be awesome, half the price and lots of Internet help tipped it. 4 weeks till shipment and I'll post a build report! Woo building stuff! It's probably a better deal you for so long as you are as willing to tinker. I look forward to the build video/thread 
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May 25, 2013 18:11
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kafkasgoldfish posted:It's probably a better deal you for so long as you are as willing to tinker. I look forward to the build video/thread Tinkering won't be an issue. As long as I have all the parts and the Internet, ill be good to go.
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May 25, 2013 18:44
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insta posted:I wants my filastruder Soon! We're waiting on more heaters, but prepping kits in the meantime!
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May 25, 2013 21:41
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I managed to get a video of my print failing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJyDC_vCa34 Pardon the messy build platform. I marked the plastic so you could see it was clearly not moving. The first layer printed no problem. Notice that the gear is turning, but the plastic has stopped extruding. When this happens, if I stop a build and manually extrude, it usually gets going again. I am fairly sure I have my Z home set correctly, if I have the Z home set any lower, then the plastic often does not stick to the build platform at all. I think the issue is with my plastic feed getting caught on something, or the swing arm not properly holding the plastic in place.
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May 26, 2013 01:52
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Two reasons that the filament wouldn't feed: either the nozzle is clogged so nothing can get out, or the drive mechanism isn't grabbing the filament tightly enough. Since you can extrude some filament manually it sounds like the second one is the problem. I don't know if your extruder uses a hobbed shaft or a friction system, but check and make sure that the filament is actually being gripped by the drive mechanism. Sometimes it will slip or "strip" the outside of the filament off without actually feeding it -- the telltale sign is that when you pull out the currently loaded filament there will be a flat spot worn into it. Is that's what's going on?
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May 26, 2013 02:02
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Sagebrush posted:Two reasons that the filament wouldn't feed: either the nozzle is clogged so nothing can get out, or the drive mechanism isn't grabbing the filament tightly enough. Since you can extrude some filament manually it sounds like the second one is the problem. I don't know if your extruder uses a hobbed shaft or a friction system, but check and make sure that the filament is actually being gripped by the drive mechanism. Sometimes it will slip or "strip" the outside of the filament off without actually feeding it -- the telltale sign is that when you pull out the currently loaded filament there will be a flat spot worn into it. Is that's what's going on? That seems to be exactly the problem. Here's a picture of the plastic from that video after I retracted it.  Here's a video of me running the extruder manually for a bit. I feel like my swing arm is too tight, just from how compressed the spring is, but it does not hold the plastic against the gear head very well, it feels like. Maybe I misunderstand the swing arm, though, and it is supposed to be much looser? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXp-wQ3m7dQ
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May 26, 2013 02:36
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greenman100 posted:Soon! We're waiting on more heaters, but prepping kits in the meantime! Yay! Any way I can contact you off-list? I'd like to chat about the filastruder some and perhaps add more nozzles to my order 
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May 26, 2013 03:17
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If the tension is too loose, the filament will just rub against the gear instead of "biting" in, and it will strip and slowly shave off the outer layer. So you want it tight enough that the filament below the extruder has a clear set of grooves from the feeder bolt (if you have that kind of extruder) cut into it. On the other hand, having the filament overly tight usually isn't a big problem, at least until you crank it down so hard that it actually binds in place -- the gear will still feed even if the filament is a little distorted from the pressure. However, if your extruder is clogged, an overly tight feeder will very rapidly and repeatedly strip the filament, because it has nowhere to go so it just grinds in place with all that pressure on it. Even a few seconds of trying to push against a clogged nozzle can cause stripping in that case. Pull out the filament and look at the grooves/notches/"teeth" on the little wheel on the motor shaft. Make sure that they're squeaky clean -- if you've been stripping filament, it's likely that they are clogged with plastic shavings, which means they don't bite into the filament any more, which means you strip more, and so on. Clean them out with a dental pick or the point of an x-acto knife, check the nozzle for any clogs, reinstall the filament with moderate pressure and you should be good to go. e: are you running ABS? ABS is more "mushy" than PLA and, I find, more prone to stripping. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:23 on May 26, 2013 |
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May 26, 2013 03:20
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If the problem persists even with proper tension on the filament, try printing without retracts. In my own extruder, there's a flaw causing a tiny amount of molten filament to fold upwards when the printer does several retractions. These eventually cause the extruder to jam. I've had to reduce retraction to almost zero while I wait for replacement parts.
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May 26, 2013 07:58
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What practical differences are there between using 1.75mm and 3mm filament? Availability? I'm looking at finally getting/making a printer, and that seems to be an option that hasn't really settled on a standard. How difficult is it (and what would be involved) to swap between sizes on the current reprap extruder options?
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May 27, 2013 05:03
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Theoretically, 1.75mm filament has a better maximum resolution because the number of steps your extruder motor can do per revolution is fixed, so smaller filament = less material extruded per revolution. In reality printers are nowhere near the point that would start to make a difference, and nozzle diameter and accurate layer height are far more critical. On the other hand, 3mm filament is more dimensionally stable -- the Ultimakers use 3mm filament because it stands up better to being pushed through a bowden cable without kinks -- and small variations in the diameter amount to a smaller percentage difference than they would with 1.75mm filament, and that IS something you'll be pushing up against on the better machines. (variations in the diameter mean variations in the material extruded for a given number of revolutions, which is bad). It is stiffer and doesn't wind around tight corners as easily, but if you have enough room for the spool to uncoil you should be fine. It's hard to say for sure, but 3mm filament *seems* to be slightly more popular, and most of the newer machines come set up for 3mm by default, so I would go that way if I were you. With most extruder designs out there today, swapping from one filament size to another is just a matter of changing out the "hotend" -- the melt chamber and extrusion nozzle, which are integrated with the heater and thermal sensors into a single block. These usually cost about $50 or so. On a particularly crappy extruder design you might also have to change the drive gear or wheel. Everything else should be exactly the same.
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May 27, 2013 05:34
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1.75 has less cross sectional area and thus has less pressure when being forced through the smaller nozzles. This gives extruders more margin with these smaller nozzles for better detail work. It's easier to use smaller and lighter but weaker motors. Your filament drive system can handle plastic dust better. You're less likely to strip the filament. If the device you're using to press the filament into the drive system comes loose, it's less likely to have a problem. It also melts faster/more uniformly because the heat has less distance to the core of the filament.
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May 27, 2013 19:45
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So I plan to build a 1m tall Rostock Max derivative using some 1m lengths of Makerslide for the rail and will be using xnaron's magnetic coupler setup for the end-effector (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1704&p=10703#p10703) Are there any considerations I need to make with regards to the bowden extruder setup and the head? I was planning to get a j-head as apparently the budaschnozzle has too many removable parts and it introduces many more failure points.
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May 27, 2013 23:14
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nogthree posted:So I plan to build a 1m tall Rostock Max derivative using some 1m lengths of Makerslide for the rail and will be using xnaron's magnetic coupler setup for the end-effector (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1704&p=10703#p10703) Use whatever hotend you want, but personally I've used the Budaschnozzle and the thing is a failure-proof tank that is ideal for ABS (albeit heavy). Do yourself a favor though, and actually get a real one, not a knockoff.
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May 28, 2013 00:44
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insta posted:Yay! Send me a message through Kickstarter, or a PM here, or an email to elmoret at gmail.
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May 28, 2013 00:47
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So my Replicator 2X suddenly ceased to communicate with my PC for no reason other than apparently turning it off and on a few hours later. PC sees it on COM6 but neither ReplicatorG nor MakerWare can make contact with it. A dozen restarts of both pc and 2x later and still no dice.
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May 28, 2013 04:12
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insta posted:[The Budaschnozzle is great]. . . Do yourself a favor though, and actually get a real one, not a knockoff.
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May 28, 2013 22:23
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Dang! Any idea if something actually broke? Seeing as it survives restarts it might be.
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May 28, 2013 22:28
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There was a local place offering print services on a Replicator that I have used before but they appear to have gone tits up. Or at least are no longer reading emails. What kind of options are there for hobby-pro or semi-pro 3D printing out there? There doesn't seem to be anything "in between" what places like Shapeways offer. (I have a large-ish model I'd like 3D printed in ABS (preferred). Fits on a build platform for a Replicator or Replicator 2[X] but printing through Shapeways or i.materialize or ponoko would be like $1200+ ... i.e. new 3D printer money)
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May 28, 2013 23:35
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DBlue135 posted:How can you tell the difference? Easiest way? The real one is $95 and on Amazon or lulzbot.com. The knockoff is about $70. A real Buda uses a resistor hotend and the knockoffs use the cheap heater cartridges. The heater cartridges admittedly work better than the resistors, but the heat isn't the failure point, it's the assembly. I hate to sound like a Lulzbot shill, but really those guys have figured out the hotend pretty well.
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May 28, 2013 23:58
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Mister Sinewave posted:(I have a large-ish model I'd like 3D printed in ABS (preferred). Fits on a build platform for a Replicator or Replicator 2[X] but printing through Shapeways or i.materialize or ponoko would be like $1200+ ... i.e. new 3D printer money) Basically your options are to find a techshop/hackerspace that has a printer you can use, or build one yourself. There isn't really anything else in between.
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May 29, 2013 00:47
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Mister Sinewave posted:There was a local place offering print services on a Replicator that I have used before but they appear to have gone tits up. Or at least are no longer reading emails. FWIW, I have a profile on makexyz.com 
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May 29, 2013 01:12
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Sagebrush posted:Basically your options are to find a techshop/hackerspace that has a printer you can use, or build one yourself. There isn't really anything else in between. I figured that was probably the case, but hoped otherwise  insta posted:FWIW, I have a profile on makexyz.com Huh, didn't even know about that site. Thanks for the tip!
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May 29, 2013 02:27
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insta posted:Easiest way? The real one is $95 and on Amazon or lulzbot.com. The knockoff is about $70. A real Buda uses a resistor hotend and the knockoffs use the cheap heater cartridges. The heater cartridges admittedly work better than the resistors, but the heat isn't the failure point, it's the assembly. Well drat. . . I bought this one.
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May 29, 2013 02:30
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That is the fake one. All I'm really saying with it, is that if it doesn't work, its not the fault of the design and please don't use that when passing on information about how well the hotends work. I'm on Buda #2 (got the machine used with a few thousand hours on it, and #1 finally fell apart after 200 hours after I got it -- when I took it apart to unclog a serious filament jam) and they're pretty bulletproof. They definitely do ABS better than PLA, though.
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May 29, 2013 04:47
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My MendelMax frame shipped today!  I got it in black, with black extrusions, and a black heat spreader plate. Booya.Can't wait.
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May 30, 2013 21:34
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Formlabs Form 1 Stereolithographic printer teardown: http://www.bunniestudios.com/blog/?p=3110
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May 30, 2013 21:42
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peepsalot posted:Formlabs Form 1 Stereolithographic printer teardown: That page is what convinced me about the build quality and design of the Form 1. I was pretty impressed. Faltion posted:So my Replicator 2X suddenly ceased to communicate with my PC for no reason other than apparently turning it off and on a few hours later. PC sees it on COM6 but neither ReplicatorG nor MakerWare can make contact with it. A dozen restarts of both pc and 2x later and still no dice. Any news on your printer woes? What happened? 
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May 30, 2013 23:37
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I opened a support ticket with Makerbot on Monday and they asked me for some info and I haven't heard from them since. It prints from SD and also connects to my laptop so I can still print fine, it's just an extra pain in the butt because it was convenient to print directly from my PC where I do all my modeling and such and also have the real-time data from the printer. I'm currently working on trying to convince them to send me a flatter build plate. I think once that happens and if I ever get it working with my PC again, I'll have no real issues with the printer.
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May 30, 2013 23:50
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What's the opinion on the Rostock delta style 3D printers? They seem quite reasonably priced for the build area compared to others available in the UK.
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May 30, 2013 23:54
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Verizian posted:What's the opinion on the Rostock delta style 3D printers? They seem quite reasonably priced for the build area compared to others available in the UK. They are the new hotness, way cool and everyone wants one. Since they are so new there is less accumulated community knowledge than for cartesian printers. Also there seem to be new designs popping up all the time.
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May 31, 2013 06:33
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MendelMax 2 kit arrived today!  The box weighs about 30 pounds. As I have been seeking a machine with a lot of rigidity, this is a good sign. Can't wait to get started building it.
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Jun 1, 2013 22:04
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This is interesting. Someone is developing a 3D printer to be the household appliance that was originally envisioned, intending to make it usable by people with no substantial technical skill: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/pirate3d/the-buccaneer-the-3d-printer-that-everyone-can-use?ref=live Their X-Y carriage looks way more robust than what we've been seeing in sub-$500 printers.
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Jun 1, 2013 23:36
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Neat. Stuff like wifi integration is a really big, important step for consumer usability, and hiding the mechanical parts definitely makes it more user-friendly. The idea of the part coming out the bottom is novel, and I like their design for cartridges -- they feed from the center and they appear to be reloadable from bulk filament. I feel like their video might be overly optimistic, though, or even a little misleading. "Power it on and go" is great, until a nozzle clogs or you get a filament blob on the end of the extruder or your parts stop sticking or any one of a million little things that could crop up. If someone buys a sub-$500 3D printer today expecting the same kind of reliability and maintenance as a desktop inkjet, I think they'll be rather disappointed. If these guys have found a way to make a supremely reliable machine that really doesn't need any maintenance, and they can hit a $300 price point, awesome. I don't think that's reasonable though. Also, the build area is very small, like Printrbot Jr. size. 15cm x 12cm x 10cm. I don't think that's large enough to build some of the parts they were showing in the video, like the cereal bowl and giant spoon, and that's a little sneaky. Their modeler looks like a good direction, though, and I could see it becoming really popular with the casual 3D printer owner if they can keep this ease of use while adding more powerful features. Try it out: http://pirate3d.com/demo/
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Jun 2, 2013 00:04
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 16:57 |
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Sagebrush posted:MendelMax 2 kit arrived today! That makes me excited. It said on their store page that it was a 4 week turn around and mine shipped out on Friday (a week after ordering). I already have received my PLA shipment as I await the box of printing.
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Jun 2, 2013 19:27
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