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Should have left them in the water.
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Jun 2, 2021 13:57
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Collateral Damage posted:Should have left them in the water. I thought about this but is there a duty as skipper to give assistance to anyone in distress?
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Jun 2, 2021 15:45
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quote:46 U.S. Code § 2304 - Duty to provide assistance at sea There's no duty to not ridicule the bigoted fucks that you just plucked out of the water though.
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Jun 2, 2021 16:07
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Safety Dance posted:There's no duty to not ridicule the bigoted fucks that you just plucked out of the water though. https://twitter.com/washingtonpost/status/1400050239961284617?s=20 “The passengers were quite rude, shouting over us, ignoring my [inquiries] about their well being when on the 911 call and smoking a Vape pen on our boat without even so much as asking if they could; several passengers of our boat have asthma,” Robbie told The Post. They didn't seem very appreciative.
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Jun 2, 2021 16:17
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I think you could easily argue that you feared for your safety from the people engaged in a hate crime against you and leave them. Just throw them a rope and drag them to shore (or pull away whenever they get near. Nobody would blame you.)
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Jun 2, 2021 16:34
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Don't miss the best part of one of the chuds poo poo his pants and everyone saw when his pants come off in the water, so he had to sit in the back of the boat with his poopy undies.
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Jun 2, 2021 17:01
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Safety Dance posted:There's no duty to not ridicule the bigoted fucks that you just plucked out of the water though.
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Jun 2, 2021 19:19
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Collateral Damage posted:Does a lake count as "at sea" though? Very much depends on which body of water you’re talking about. Private or natural Inland lake? Not technically applicable but you’re still a dick if you don’t render aid. Waterway between two states? Arguably interstate commerce so probably applies. Federally controlled waterway? Eg, intracoastal waterways, Corps of Engineers controlled lakes etc.? You bet your rear end federal law applies.
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Jun 2, 2021 19:32
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Cat Hatter posted:Well you tested the battery correctly and it seems fine so yeah cables would be the next thing to check. Make sure all the connections are tight and the cables don't crunch when you move them then check voltage drop where the big red cable connects to the starter. voltage readings from one probe at the positive battery terminal and the other at the starter connection: 0.5v when ignition off 0.25mv when ignition on. 0.7v when cranking, trying to start, the engine. Googling to see if that's ok I've found at least one reference to 0.6 being a max. Hmmm.. In text conversation with the mechanic who says he'll "try to" come this week (lmao fml) he has a hunch the coil could be bad. Looking at the engine manual for troubleshooting the starting system of this engine it suggested checking the coil by pulling the wire from the distributor and to hold near ground to see what the spark looked like. I did this and received a shock which the manual did not prepare me for!  It was simple enough to buy a coil recommended for this engine (thx internet) from napa so I have that in my back pocket in case this mechanic ever appears.
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Jun 2, 2021 20:11
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Your measurement method is a bit unusual to me, but from what you describe, you are only measuring the positive side of the circuit. You could easily loose another 0.7V across the ground. A 0.5V voltage drop with no load doesn't make sense to me though. Could you have a ignition switched battery isolator in your system that has gone bad?
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Jun 2, 2021 22:47
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Humbug posted:Your measurement method is a bit unusual to me, but from what you describe, you are only measuring the positive side of the circuit. You could easily loose another 0.7V across the ground. A 0.5V voltage drop with no load doesn't make sense to me though. Could you have a ignition switched battery isolator in your system that has gone bad? It makes sense, it's a technique to show up poor connections that have increased resistance. I've done it with success on old Land Rovers before. OP; that's a surprising but not catastrophic voltage drop. If you take off, inspect, properly clean and retighten each connection in turn you might see an improvement.
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Jun 2, 2021 22:53
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Yeah, it'll give you an idea if there's something catastrophically wrong with the positive power. Wouldn't address the grounds tho. Femtosecond, if you don't have any luck with that mechanic you could look into Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual. It's fairly accessible while still covering just about any system with theory/troubleshooting/repairs you might need to make a boat go.
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Jun 2, 2021 22:56
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:Yeah, it'll give you an idea if there's something catastrophically wrong with the positive power. Wouldn't address the grounds tho. I actually have this and I have been reading it to sort of plan out what diagnosis attempts I'm gonna investigate. My biggest problem is actually a lack of time! I'm trying to squeeze in checking one or two things in the brief time I have available before and after work but it's really hard. This upcoming weekend I should have heaps of time to actually sit down and go over stuff at length. Of course there's the problem of bridging the theory of what could be wrong, with the specifics of the engine which I'm not yet familiar. Gonna take me a bit longer than someone with experience. This is why I was hoping to simply bring in a mechanic to just solve the issue, but apparently mechanics are impossible to get right now. Femtosecond fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 23:28
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Humbug posted:Your measurement method is a bit unusual to me, but from what you describe, you are only measuring the positive side of the circuit. You could easily loose another 0.7V across the ground. A 0.5V voltage drop with no load doesn't make sense to me though. Could you have a ignition switched battery isolator in your system that has gone bad? tbh I read and re-read your original post but I wasn't sure what specifically you were suggesting I measure before. I did some googling around measuring the starter voltage and came up with what I measured. I guess it wasn't what you were thinking? What do you think I should be measuring? The voltage meter needs to be hooked up in parallel with part of the circuit. Where are you thinking the probes need to go? Being clear about the load on the battery at 0.5v, the battery selector switch was on to this battery, but I had not yet pulled out the "ignition" switch which is required to be pulled out before pressing the start button. Femtosecond fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Jun 2, 2021 |
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Jun 2, 2021 23:31
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Femtosecond posted:tbh I read and re-read your original post but I wasn't sure what specifically you were suggesting I measure before. I did some googling around measuring the starter voltage and came up with what I measured. I guess it wasn't what you were thinking? The way I've usually seen starter problem troubleshooting done goes like this: 1. Measure voltage across the battery terminals at rest. This should be around 12.7-12.8V for a healthy, fully charged conventional lead-acid battery. 2. Keep the probes on the battery terminals and start cranking. This will pull a large current from the battery, which makes its voltage droop. If it doesn't drop below 11.5V the battery is probably fine. You've already done this and established that the battery is fine - so far so good. 3. While cranking, measure the voltage at the starter itself. That is, one probe on the starter's positive terminal and one at the battery's negative terminal. This is the voltage the starter sees after losses in the cabling, and it should ideally not drop below 11 V; if it drops below 10.5V you risk damaging the starter. You can't get this difference between the starter and the battery to be 0, but it shouldn't be more than a couple hundred millivolts. If it is, replace the cabling and connectors. In boats, the starter often doesn't have a negative terminal of its own, but rather the engine block itself is the negative terminal, so you might have to replace a negative cable from the battery to the engine block as well. Also might be worth checking that the starter isn't coming loose from the engine block. If I'm understanding you correctly, your method is basically doing the same thing except the voltages are relative instead of absolute (you're measuring the losses directly). What is weird to me though is that the starter's positive terminal and the battery's positive terminal seem to be connected while the "ignition" circuit breaker is open, that there is also 0.5V of potential difference between them, and that this difference goes away when the breaker is closed. I don't know how things could be wired to get that result - normally a circuit breaker is installed on the positive lead, so there should be no connection here. But maybe it breaks the connection to the ignition key itself instead? I dunno. TheFluff fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 13:59
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TheFluff posted:If it is, replace the cabling and connectors. In boats, the starter often doesn't have a negative terminal of its own, but rather the engine block itself is the negative terminal, so you might have to replace a negative cable from the battery to the engine block as well. Also might be worth checking that the starter isn't coming loose from the engine block. With a healthy battery and low cable loss, loss of a ground strap is definitely a possibility. Grounds on boats take a beating with corrosion. Depending on the boat material, not having good return paths to the batteries can lead to all kinds of weirdness. The absolute test for this is to check the voltage from the alternator casing to the block (assume zero) and from the block to the battery negative. I had a car that had ground strap damage and I was getting 12.8V open-circuit, 11.8V at the starter, but 7.5V from the block to battery negative; the starter only had 4 effective volts: the rest was going into melting the few remaining strands of the ground strap.
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Jun 3, 2021 18:05
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Hughmoris posted:Any good resources for someone who is looking at the liveaboard sailing lifestyle? Resources or pointer to even start the research in buying a sailboat? I'm looking at the east coast or gulf. Ok, here are my credentials on this topic 1. spent years 6 months - 3.5 years living on a catalina 30 in the bahamas/florida keys 2. spent ages 4-6 living on same catalina 30 in seattle/vancouver island/british columbia 2.5. spent ages 14-21 single handing that same catalina 30 on lake texoma in Texas 3. convinced my best friend to buy a 31' sailboat with me* and restore it, best friend lived aboard it for three years, also did some offshore racing on it 4. my friend/coworker lived aboard my boat for 3-6 months Basically all the maintenance involved on a boat is the same as a motor home, except you live in a corrosive environment so everything ages twice as fast. Most boat specific parts have a 20 year design lifespan. You might get a little extra, a little less but if it was last replaced 18 years ago make sure it's a line item in your budget. Anything you buy at a hardware store will probably deteriorate to dust within 1-3 years, you get what you pay for with boats Sailing offshore/island hopping is a LOT harder on your boat/equipment than sitting in a marina 29/31 days a month in a quiet/safe marina, figure out the kind of lifestyle you want. If you buy a 30-foot sailboat for $5,000 expect to put $20,000 and six months in to it, to get it to a new/comfortably used state. If you buy a $15,000 boat expect to put $10,000 into it. If you buy a $25,000 boat expect to put $5,000 into it. That's just how these things work. The SV Delos guy, Brian, says to expect to put 2% of the boat's "like new" value into maintaining the boat. For a $200,000 boat that's $4,000. That could be 1. new chart plotter 2. new autopilot 3. new drinking water tank/hoses/valves 4. new fuel tank/hoses/valves 5. new bottom paint 6. new rudder/rudder bearing/s 7. new standing rigging 8. new running rigging etc What's your projected lifestyle expense? $1,000/month? $2,500/month? $5,000? Marina fees are $400-1500/month, plus maintenance, and then food and clothes andother living expenses. They don't advertise it, but the SV Delos people eat a lot of vegetables & rice (very little meat), and anchor in less/unprotected areas to cut down on daily living expenses. The La Vagabonde people are vegetarian/vegan as part of a moral thing, but also to look good for their channel, and also it's way cheaper than trying to buy fresh meat on an island. The SV Delos people have, at least two stills that I can think of, maybe even three, to make their own hard liquor, which is another major expense. Ryan and Sophie sailing, Sophie's wine habit is a major source of contention (she's french) as her drinking is something like 15% of their annual cruising budget, between drinking on board an going out to karaoke bars. I think she scalded the hell out of her leg while cooking drunk at sea and she finally dialed back the drinking but who knows If you're on the bottom end of the cruising budget scale, and you're single, look at something in the 25-27' range, sailboat parts are significantly cheaper below 29'. For a grown rear end adult who needs a flush toilet and expects to cook for women who expect a higher standard of living, 30' is going to be the minimum, it used to be 35' was the largest you can single hand, but with asymmetrical spinnakers, better autopilots and equipment 40' is now achievable, particularly with modern weather forecasting. Sailing Uma is a completely refitted Pearson... 36? and the two of them live pretty well but they have extensive construction and architecture experience to redesign that space. But it's a good idea of an older boat that's easily managed with limited crew. Don't buy a boat that the engine won't start and you can't sail to at least the next port of call safely on the day you sign the ownership paperwork. You'll burn up all your time and money trying to rescue a wreck. Let someone else do the hard work for you and buy someone elses' mostly finished failed project, or better yet, buy a turn key boat that just needs systems replaced, not a full restoration. Getting a marine diesel to start can be a $50 job or a $2500 rebuild If you want an example of what not to do, go check out the boat refit by the Odd Life Crafting people. I think they bought a 45' steel boat for the cost of scrap and then spent $60,000+ refitting it over two years, I think they bought a new mast, plus the time to find the boat, also they hired out most of the difficult jobs because they're just not at all qualified, or didn't have the time. I'm surprised the guy's wife hasn't left him yet; I'm pretty sure when they bought the boat, he promised her that they'd be sailing in the Caribbean in 6 months. references sv delos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvLc83k5o11EIF1lEo0VmuQ la vagabonde: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCZdQjaSoLjIzFnWsDQOv4ww Ryan and Sophie sailing: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeB8v6Yo60cTcmRUilSVZhA sailing uma: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXbWsGV_cjG3gOsSnNJPVlg odd life crafting: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNASZ7lA8AS_yKT89TAVP9w TL;DR buy a turn key 27' boat with new rigging and modern electronics and a flush toiler for $35,000+, and then upgrade in a year if you really feel like doing this any longer than that, don't buy anything smaller than 25' and don't buy anything larger than 42' Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 22:28
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Hadlock posted:Great liveaboard advice... You are a scholar, and a gentleman. I appreciate you taking the time to write all that up. You've given me a lot to research and think upon.
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Jun 4, 2021 00:51
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Actually correction, the Odd Life Crafting people did not pay scrap value for their boat, they paid Fifty Goddamned Thousand US Dollars for a steel boat that had been sitting on the hard for 23 years, in the tropics, in brazil, outside, full asking price because they were scared the seller would not negotiate with them (???) (never ever pay full ask price for a used boat, especially without a working engine) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHpk6sECoTc dreamers |
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Jun 4, 2021 02:35
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posted:
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Hadlock posted:...a steel boat that had been sitting on the hard for 23 years, in the tropics, in brazil, outside... At what point does a boat stop being a boat, and become a really lovely house?
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Jun 4, 2021 05:56
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MrYenko posted:At what point does a boat stop being a boat, and become a really lovely house? New thread title?  With the advent of tiny house movement, trailer homes, RV, modular homes etc it all blurs together, and arguably sailboats sit somewhere on that continuum A couple of companies back, I went with a coworker to go look at, wasn't much bigger than a Cal 20, similar to a Catalina 22, in a marina in SF, the guy had it for sale for $1500 and the marina would let us keep the slip if we signed in blood we wouldn't use it as an Airbnb. Well the guy had been sleeping on it as a night security guard + fry cook and it was his full time house. He had two airplane suitcases all packed up and was ready to go back to wherever as soon as he cashed out on his tiny boat that was also his house. There were also a disturbing number of half used candles on the boat, presumably for light as it's cheaper than paying for shore power. I passed on that, even though it had a sweet looking canary yellow mainsail of questionable quality and no cover My mom still has my best friend's 1974 Dufour 31 down in Kemah, Texas, she uses it as a really lovely lake house. She pays about $300/mo all in. I start the engine for an hour, do a partial oil change (engine access sucks on that boat), back in and out of the slip once a year, but yeah it's basically a really lovely house. With fantastic African mahogany wood veneer and hilarious 1970s bright orange "fluid" head sink/shower fiberglass moulding. But it's survived at least two direct hits from a hurricane and I'll probably pass it down to my daughter someday because it's built like a brick poo poo house. Also it's a fantastic location for sunset margarita sipping. There is a primary blender and a secondary backup blender on board.
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Jun 4, 2021 09:23
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Hadlock posted:There is a primary blender and a secondary backup blender on board. One is 12/120v and the other is 2 stroke…right?
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Jun 4, 2021 12:35
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I'm curious about a sailboat accessory, and unfortunately I don't know what it's called, nor did I take a picture. My sailing school owns almost exclusively old J/24s. On one of them, either side of the companionway, there is a 2" circular hole cut in the fiberglass. They're normally closed with a threaded cap. When you remove the cap, there's like a 8" long nylon bag that's been designed to fit exactly in the hole that protrudes into the cabin. These bags are removable. Does anyone have any idea what these are? I've been using it as a place to store the winch handle.
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Jun 4, 2021 15:05
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Hadlock posted:New thread title? No. Nautical Insanity: Secondary Backup Blender on Board 
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Jun 4, 2021 15:16
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Safety Dance posted:I'm curious about a sailboat accessory, and unfortunately I don't know what it's called, nor did I take a picture. Uh, something like this:  I think it's some kind of fleshlight that's popular with kayakers Hadlock posted:There were also a disturbing number of half used candles on the boat, presumably for light as it's cheaper than paying for shore power. I passed on that, even though it had a sweet looking canary yellow mainsail of questionable quality and no cover Hey now, I use a (big citronella) candle to light my C22's cabin. It gives the boat a certain, jenny-say-quat. Plus anything else is too dang bright.
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Jun 4, 2021 16:17
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monsterzero posted:Uh, something like this: Yeah, almost exactly. I guess it's just a waterproof place to put stuff. Thanks!
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Jun 4, 2021 16:22
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Good deal. Those round inspection covers/those things are pretty close in size to bulkhead compasses/old depth sounders. I use one to fill a hole from dead gear removed from my boat.
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Jun 4, 2021 16:25
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If they’re first run boats there used to be compasses there probably. I’ve seen those style of access hole used for halyard / control line tail storage to keep em off the deck and unfouled in the sheets
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Jun 4, 2021 17:08
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Crunchy Black posted:If they’re first run boats there used to be compasses there probably. I’ve seen those style of access hole used for halyard / control line tail storage to keep em off the deck and unfouled in the sheets This post should totally end in “, arrr!” In fact it probably should be mandatory for every post in this thread.
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Jun 4, 2021 19:16
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iv46vi posted:This post should totally end in “, arrr!” I'll be gettin' me masts stepped 'n' rigged next week, yarrr.
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Jun 4, 2021 23:07
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What is this thread’s opinion of Catalinas, specifically the 30’ series?
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Jun 4, 2021 23:22
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What do you want to do with said Catalina 30 They were designed as a safe, affordable, floating motorhome that was capable of going from Los Angeles to Catalina Island, or poke your way up the coast, but not designed to go to Hawaii or further I think every Catalina that has had keel issues has been fixed as of 15 years ago. They're pretty roomy, easy to sail, and the company that made them still exists and you can buy replacement parts out of an official manufacturers catalog still, which is really handy, if slightly expensive for that convenience Before we bought our more modern interior j boat, I was trying to sell my wife on a Catalina 36 The Catalina 34 has the superior layout though, true aft cabin with a real door, on the other side it has the head behind the galley and far away from the v-berth, and plenty of storage for multiple blenders in the lazarette If you're into vanilla, safe bet lake/coastal boats, they're perfectly adequate. We almost pulled the trigger on an exceptionally clean, updated Catalina 34. I spent many years on a Catalina 30 they're great boats
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Jun 4, 2021 23:35
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MrYenko posted:No.  It'll never not be amusing to me that I started this thread expecting power boats and somehow wound up with a bunch of sailboat nerds. I'm kinda ok with it tho.
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Jun 5, 2021 00:34
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You see, power boaters are too busy zipping around, blasting War's Lowrider with 1,200 watts and entertaining their friends and families (aka babes.) On the other hand, us sailors have alienated everyone around us and are compelled to  in an encouragement circle to keep from falling into the void...
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Jun 5, 2021 01:41
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dialhforhero posted:What is this thread’s opinion of Catalinas, specifically the 30’ series? We bought our Catalina 25 from a couple that moved up to a Catalina 30. When they were showing us the boat they described Catalinas as the Toyotas of sailboats, and that seems accurate. We’ve ordered quite a bit from Catalina Direct, however the stuff they sell is in two categories: things they manufacture specifically for the boats which makes sense to get from them, and generic hardware that you can get from Harken or McMaster-Carr or whatever for cheaper.
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Jun 5, 2021 02:18
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Hey, some of us have powerboats with structural problems right now.
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Jun 5, 2021 04:33
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Cat Hatter posted:Hey, some of us have powerboats with structural problems right now. Yeah I'm overdue to get my standing rigging checked, too
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Jun 5, 2021 05:14
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Too busy actually boating to post about it I guess  Ill try to dump some pics and words when I'm back. E: would'nt want this to become a sailboat thread
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Jun 5, 2021 10:04
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Thanks. I would use it for bay or coastal sailing on the East US coast as a day sailer if not just a nice overnight on a nice evening moored somewhere. I think the furthest I would take it is to South Carolina. I just see the layouts and they look or seem just right. Having the manufacture also be around pumping these things out gives me confidence in being able to perform good maintenance. Also the prices I have found are surprisingly affordable.
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Jun 5, 2021 14:14
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| # ? Jun 12, 2024 19:33 |
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Here's some power-boating related content: Been doing work in the boathouse. Put a kayak lift in:  Built a small bench for working on tackle, etc:  Here's our poodle, Pepper Potts, living her best life:  And a bonus sunset shot of the boathouse: 
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Jun 5, 2021 22:59
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