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Jippa posted:I'm trying to find out how to replace the cord for the light in my bathroom. I don't know exactly what "type" of light it is that I could google. I found this on GIS but the filename does't give any clearer idea what it is called. A pendant light?
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Sep 22, 2017 16:43
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Enourmo posted:That...shouldn't matter, I think? Either way the bending forces are all in the same direction. I think it does matter? Particularly the thing I always heard is that screwing into a joist and hanging stuff from it concentrates the load into a a tiny area whereas floors are designed to spread the load out over multiple joists and along that joist itself instead of concentrating the load into a handful of locations. I think what you're planning to store also matters, 5lbs of load isn't really going to matter but if you're trying to hold hundreds of lbs then that could start becoming a problem. I also believe that the type of joists you have also come into play, engineered I-beams are probably going to be less capable of handling a downward pull then some 2xWhatevers.
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Sep 22, 2017 17:12
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PremiumSupport posted:Rather than putting holes in the wall or hanging extra weight from your floor joists you should probably just invest in some stronger free-standing shelf units. We've got some nice steel frame & plywood surface units at work that hold several hundred pounds per shelf without issue. Yeah, seems that way. I want to make something instead of buying though, so maybe I'll do some pipe fitting shelving. I think I will try hanging some stuff off the joists at some point but it'll be something light like a diy whiteboard type deal.
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Sep 22, 2017 18:28
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Tres Burritos posted:Yeah, seems that way. I want to make something instead of buying though, so maybe I'll do some pipe fitting shelving. I think I will try hanging some stuff off the joists at some point but it'll be something light like a diy whiteboard type deal. https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/build-it-black-pipe-bookshelf or a bit better looking: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/how-to/build-it-black-pipe-bookshelf
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Sep 22, 2017 18:31
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Tres Burritos posted:Yeah, seems that way. I want to make something instead of buying though, so maybe I'll do some pipe fitting shelving. I think I will try hanging some stuff off the joists at some point but it'll be something light like a diy whiteboard type deal. Joists are weakest on the outside, you never, ever want to notch or drill holes through the outer peripherary of the joist. Whenever you drill holes through joists for plumbing and wiring, you always do it at least two inches from either edge to avoid weakening it. I just cannot reinforce what a bad idea it would be to add extra load to the outside edge of a joist. If you're going-ho on building your own shelves and don't have much in the way of tools or experience, something like these shelf brackets might be a good and inexpensive way to start. All you need is a drill, hand saw, and 2x4's: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0030T1BGK/ Heck, you can even just get your cuts done at HD/Lowes, and screw stuff in by hand with a screwdriver if your don't have any tools and want to give it a shot.
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Sep 22, 2017 19:10
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I'm moving into a 1930's building with plaster and lath walls. I want to build a 2' deep shelf along a wall with no legs, just use big metal L brackets. How should I fix these to the wall? Will there be studs for me to find or would drilling anywhere work? Should I use plugs if I'm not sure if I'm not a stud? Should I mount some wood strips to the wall first then attach the brackets? Just want to do this in the best way without ruining the wall entirely.
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Sep 22, 2017 19:20
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OSU_Matthew posted:Joists are weakest on the outside, you never, ever want to notch or drill holes through the outer peripherary of the joist. Whenever you drill holes through joists for plumbing and wiring, you always do it at least two inches from either edge to avoid weakening it. I just cannot reinforce what a bad idea it would be to add extra load to the outside edge of a joist. Yep, thanks. I suppose the right way to do this if I don't want to drill holes in the wall but still wanted wall mounted shelving is to frame the wall in question. And that's definitely outside my comfort zone (and that's not the kind of project I want to take on right now). OSU_Matthew posted:If you're gung-ho on building your own shelves and don't have much in the way of tools or experience, something like these shelf brackets might be a good and inexpensive way to start. All you need is a drill, hand saw, and 2x4's: Oh no, I've got plenty of tools and enough experience to be comfortable making shelves, I was just hoping that I could make something unique and nicer than "I bought this poo poo from IKEA" with relatively little effort.
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Sep 22, 2017 19:34
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Some idiot attached my baseboards with silicone (GE silicone II) but this is not a bathroom or kitchen. So it looks dumb and wrong. It is also impossible to paint. I'm running out of ideas to get this off the textured wall. It's also brand new and not 7 years old dried out. Tried heatgunning it, and scraping carefully with a plastic tool but this basically does nothing. WD-40 sounds like a bad idea. The most success I've had so far is using 80 grit sandpaper to slice it up and rubbing with my thumb till it comes off. But it's slow going and prone to sanding the wall itself. 
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Sep 22, 2017 22:07
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cakesmith handyman posted:That's deliberately applying downwards tension on the joists designed for compression from above. Can be done does not mean should be done!
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Sep 22, 2017 22:22
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Crotch Fruit posted:What if the notches the joist to relieve the downward tension? 
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Sep 22, 2017 22:45
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Chunjee posted:Some idiot attached my baseboards with silicone (GE silicone II) Are you this idiot?  Metal scraper, scrubber pad, repaint. Silicone is purposefully hard to get to react with anything. You can try mineral spirits.
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Sep 22, 2017 23:19
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H110Hawk posted:Are you this idiot? Father's friend who "knows a lot about construction." Though technically I did one board myself.  I'll give mineral spirits a shot, thanks. I've had a lot of luck using that on other sticky stuff.
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Sep 22, 2017 23:32
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I've had good luck with Motsenbockers Lift Off on tile, but I don't know what it does to paint and drywall.
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Sep 23, 2017 01:56
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H110Hawk posted:Are you this idiot? I don't think mineral spirits will affect cured out silicone, but I may be wrong. Lacquer thinner or acetone on the other hand...
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Sep 23, 2017 01:58
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Finally painting the office in a house we bought three years ago. Looks like the trim (which is painted a godawful taupe or mauve or something) is probably latex paint on top of oil. Because it just kind of peels off like rubbery skin. Is there anything specific to getting that off of the trim? Just sand it like anything else? Anything to worry about?
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Sep 23, 2017 14:09
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Silicone based lubricants break down silicone... allegedly 
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Sep 23, 2017 14:45
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Wasabi the J posted:Silicone based lubricants break down silicone... allegedly Ha actually my wife is the one telling me it was peeling off... but I just checked and it looks to have been solidly applied so I'm just going to paint over it.
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Sep 23, 2017 15:20
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Chunjee posted:Some idiot attached my baseboards with silicone (GE silicone II) but this is not a bathroom or kitchen. So it looks dumb and wrong. It is also impossible to paint. Try razor blades in a scraper tool, that might be enough to slide underneath at just the right angle and slice through the silicone. Soaking in Goo Gone might work to help loosen it up
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Sep 23, 2017 16:12
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This dishwasher hadn't been used for a year. It now appears to not distribute water correctly. After a cycle, there's water droplets all over the interior, the soap dispenser is open, and the detergent has dripped down, but nothing has been washed. The water lines are fully open, turned counter clockwise. When it sounds like water is coming in, I can adjust the knobs and hear it being cut off. Thoughts? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1HU8W3JobI Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 22:41
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Have you tried removing all the spinning arms that shoot out the water and removing mineral scale?
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Sep 23, 2017 23:01
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TheBananaKing posted:Have you tried removing all the spinning arms that shoot out the water and removing mineral scale? Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 23:05
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Josh Lyman posted:I have not but can give that a shot. The arms do not appear to spin, based on them not moving position when I interrupt the cycle. They could be completely clogged, or it could be clogged elsewhere. Do you have hard water/mineral scale problems there? If so and you can even get it half rear end going then running it a few times with a bunch of white vinegar or one of the commercial products usually gets the sprayers going full blast again.
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Sep 23, 2017 23:11
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If they aren't spinning at all it's probably a clog downstream of them. Find the manual for your washer and figure out where the pump and pump filter are and give the filter a good scrubbing and try to make sure the pump isn't clogged.
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Sep 23, 2017 23:16
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Trying to find a support doc on the LG website and their information is only for newer models. Ugh. This is probably relevant. The dishwasher has had a strange odor for at least a few years, and we've been in the house for 7 years. As to why I didn't address this earlier, I live on a separate floor with my own kitchen so I never use this dishwasher. Motronic posted:They could be completely clogged, or it could be clogged elsewhere. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Sep 23, 2017 |
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Sep 23, 2017 23:34
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You'll probably have better luck googling the model number + "manual" and checking the sites that index old product manuals. Why manufacturers refuse to maintain a repository of their old manuals I will never know. In any event, if you take off all the plastic spinners the big hole that is connected to them will be the outlet for your pump. If there's not an immediately obvious clog there you may have to dig deeper... For that you'll probably want the manual specific to your washer as the disassembly steps can vary bigly.
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Sep 24, 2017 00:25
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Water enters the dishwasher from a hole in the left, collects at the reservoir in the bottom, then gets sprayed up. I'm not sure if this is how all dishwashers work, but the water is coming in fine. It's the spraying up part that's failing, which I would assume is a pump issue.TheBananaKing posted:You'll probably have better luck googling the model number + "manual" and checking the sites that index old product manuals. Why manufacturers refuse to maintain a repository of their old manuals I will never know. In any event, if you take off all the plastic spinners the big hole that is connected to them will be the outlet for your pump. If there's not an immediately obvious clog there you may have to dig deeper... For that you'll probably want the manual specific to your washer as the disassembly steps can vary bigly. This video corresponds to my dishwasher. I went through the disassembly steps, not replacing the filter of course, and everything looked okay. Sounds like a deeper problem then? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBWtfiB2OH8 Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 00:41 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Sep 24, 2017 00:27
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Yeah I am not an expert by any stretch of the imagination so I'm not sure what the best course would be... If it were me I'd probably start checking electronics to make sure the pump is still getting power and is actually trying to run when the dishwasher turns on. Good luck!
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Sep 24, 2017 00:54
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Josh Lyman posted:Water enters the dishwasher from a hole in the left, collects at the reservoir in the bottom, then gets sprayed up. I'm not sure if this is how all dishwashers work, but the water is coming in fine. It's the spraying up part that's failing, which I would assume is a pump issue. http://www.ebay.com/itm/4681EA2002H-for-LG-Washer-Washing-Machine-Dishwasher-Pump-PS3523285-AP4438603-/381444939938 http://www.ebay.com/itm/5221DD1001A-Dishwasher-Water-Valve-Inlet-5221DD1001F-Fits-LG-PS9495756-AP5810251-/152356567259 HycoCam fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Sep 24, 2017 01:03
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ok so: replacing a ceiling fan which sucks a lot with a boob light (whatever those are called. you know what i mean) which don't look great but do look better than halfassed fans. the footprint of the light is bigger than the base of the fan so it'll cover up anything unsightly. am i likely to find a useable box above the fan when i take it off? no fancy wiring, it was run off a single wall switch.
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Sep 24, 2017 03:36
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SoundMonkey posted:ok so: replacing a ceiling fan which sucks a lot with a boob light (whatever those are called. you know what i mean) which don't look great but do look better than halfassed fans. If your ceiling fan has not helpfully removed itself already, then yes, you're very likely to find a box.
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Sep 24, 2017 03:55
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I've been planning on finishing my basement, and I'm hoping to do a lot of it myself (although not all of it). Do general contractors ever let you pay them for their time to get some advice? Specifically to have them come out and answer questions about options/choices in terms of say basement insulation (and other things)? It feels like this is something that they may just find insulting or not worth it but I have no idea if that's accurate or not.
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Sep 24, 2017 04:02
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SoundMonkey posted:the footprint of the light is bigger than the base of the fan so it'll cover up anything unsightly. am i likely to find a useable box above the fan when i take it off? no fancy wiring, it was run off a single wall switch. How shaky is the fan, at the base, right now? If the whole fan is generally secure, you probably have a proper ceiling box, since ceiling fans are Really loving Heavy and will wobble like hell if they're on the wrong style of box. If the box was new work and on a joist, the box should look something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/25-cu-in-Ceiling-Fan-Box-Super-Blue-BH525LR/100173618 or a metal version. If the box was old work and done properly, you'll likely have a ceiling box with arms like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Raco-RET..._-203743171-_-N If you don't see either of those, take a picture of what the result is when you remove the fan and ask here again. Your booblight will be lighter (in weight) than whatever was there, so it shouldn't be a problem one way or the other, but if the box is lovely, replace it with the ceiling retrofit box. The arms on the retrofit box extend out the sides and grab onto the ceiling joists, then you clamp the box to those metal arms, resulting in a strong hold.
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Sep 24, 2017 04:03
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facialimpediment posted:How shaky is the fan, at the base, right now? If the whole fan is generally secure, you probably have a proper ceiling box, since ceiling fans are Really loving Heavy and will wobble like hell if they're on the wrong style of box. it's honestly really solid, there's nothing wrong with the fan, i just hate it a lot and the light in it takes moon bulbs that nobody has. good to know it probably has the right style of box, will report back when i touch it and the bathtub falls through the ceiling from the floor above.
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Sep 24, 2017 04:49
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Steampunk Hitler posted:I've been planning on finishing my basement, and I'm hoping to do a lot of it myself (although not all of it). Do general contractors ever let you pay them for their time to get some advice? Specifically to have them come out and answer questions about options/choices in terms of say basement insulation (and other things)? It feels like this is something that they may just find insulting or not worth it but I have no idea if that's accurate or not. Find a 'home performance' consultant for basement insulation - http://www.bpihomeowner.org/ is one place to look.
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Sep 24, 2017 14:30
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SoundMonkey posted:it's honestly really solid, there's nothing wrong with the fan, i just hate it a lot and the light in it takes moon bulbs that nobody has. Just an aside; Costco had a really good modern ceiling fan with remote module and controller to be run by a singe switch for like $120. Came out of the box pretty balanced, and took standard bulbs, I didn't use the remote box because I didn't want to run the lights and fan on the same wall switch because I have a motion dimmer. Wasabi the J fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Sep 24, 2017 |
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Sep 24, 2017 14:39
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Steampunk Hitler posted:I've been planning on finishing my basement, and I'm hoping to do a lot of it myself (although not all of it). Do general contractors ever let you pay them for their time to get some advice? Specifically to have them come out and answer questions about options/choices in terms of say basement insulation (and other things)? It feels like this is something that they may just find insulting or not worth it but I have no idea if that's accurate or not. It's the opposite actually, they'd rather you offer upfront and say yes or no than have some low-ball Walmart remodel shopper pump them and walk away from an hour they'll never get back. gently caress all those people.
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Sep 24, 2017 15:46
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Steampunk Hitler posted:I've been planning on finishing my basement, and I'm hoping to do a lot of it myself (although not all of it). Do general contractors ever let you pay them for their time to get some advice? Specifically to have them come out and answer questions about options/choices in terms of say basement insulation (and other things)? It feels like this is something that they may just find insulting or not worth it but I have no idea if that's accurate or not. $50/hour for consult and $75/hour for drawing/estimation probably gets it done. You will be out a grand or two. Consider a book. Expect to pay a big premium on any repairs or fixes you then ask a contractor to do on your behalf.
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Sep 24, 2017 16:03
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devicenull posted:Find a 'home performance' consultant for basement insulation - http://www.bpihomeowner.org/ is one place to look. Thanks! Mr. Mambold posted:It's the opposite actually, they'd rather you offer upfront and say yes or no than have some low-ball Walmart remodel shopper pump them and walk away from an hour they'll never get back. gently caress all those people. H110Hawk posted:$50/hour for consult and $75/hour for drawing/estimation probably gets it done. You will be out a grand or two. Consider a book. Expect to pay a big premium on any repairs or fixes you then ask a contractor to do on your behalf. Thanks, That's what I was hoping was the case. I have no problem paying people for their time and I very explicitly do not want to abuse someone trying to give me a free estimate or something along those lines. I've done a fair amount of research, so the things I need are mostly some "where the rubber meets the road" questions and going over what I plan to do to make sure that it seems sane.
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Sep 24, 2017 17:35
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The house my wife and I recently bought needs some work, but there a few places that need it more than others. The first thing we're looking at doing is the porch. It is a semi-wrap around porch that covers quite a bit of the house. However, the wood has not been taken care of like it should have been, and the ends are rotting, and one side at the end of the porch, about 4 boards are rotting. I do have some spare wood to redo the really bad ones (probably the one end will be first), but I'm wondering if there is something I can do to keep it from getting worse until the porch gets on the list of poo poo to remodel as we move down the line. Can I just take deck sealant and run it over the wood really well, will that help stop the rotting, or is it a foregone conclusion where I will have to replace then keep up with it? The previous owner did not leave enough wood to do the entire porch (of course), so I'm going to have to pick and choose my repairs.
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Sep 24, 2017 19:17
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I have a garage which currently would be a great x-post to the crappy construction thread. We have to date ignored its existence except as a place to build a suitable habitat for spiders and rodents. They have graciously loaned me space for a car and a pile of crap. Behind the rear door is a 2-3' step down into a room that is the same width but around half the depth eyeballing it. All shelving, drywall, wiring (except the brand new, permitted and inspected 100A subpanel), hooks, etc. were complements of a series of previous owners. We are working on a master plan for the house, and the next step is to fix up the garage to hold our crap in a neat and organized fashion. Our goal is to gut out all the shelving, move everything out, and install real storage for plastic bins on one side plus workbench space with tool chest/cabinetry/drawers on the other side. We are not huge DIY-ers but we are amassing tools and skills as we go along. I would like it to have drywall, largely for the aesthetics. The car will continue to be parked there. My main question: Is this drywall salvageable? It was installed before we bought the house 2 years ago, I am betting it is over 5 years old. There is no tape, primer, or mud on it save the few smears you see, most of which do not completely encapsulate the fastener. I would be shocked to find anything behind it other than the aforementioned spiders and rodents.  Second question: We have a generic little led-lit button to close the garage door. It's always been flaky but now it's starting to work only a quarter of days I try it, let alone presses. The LED light is on inside it, and it turns off when pressed. Sometimes the garage motor light clicks on though very rarely when fiddling with it. The safety beam is on and not tripped (solid light, blinks when tripped.) Use of a remote will cause instant closure, interior light clicks on, etc. Is that the button? The logic board on the motor? I can obviously replace the button quickly, but if that points to wiring I'm willing to live with it until we gut the place. Less fix it fast, more project based: Any tips or planning sites on useful ways to setup a garage? We're willing to spend money to get it done right, but I'm really at a loss of where to start, or which ideas look good on blogs but terrible in practice. It's 17x19x9' (foundation to foundation, floor to top of drywall.) I'm certain if I gave the container store enough money they would deck out my garage, but I would rather not pay a stupid premium on things. Album of pictures I took, most for my personal use: https://imgur.com/a/lDZ9i The garage does of course come with bonus mystery door. I will repair the wiring up to code once I have the shelves ripped out. Thankfully the cable itself should be salvageable, but of course there is little to no slack anywhere.
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Sep 24, 2017 19:20
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