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Motronic posted:And you live in a state that requires working ABS to pass inspection? I am seriously about to be mindblown if this is not the case. You're telling me a car with a check engine light, traction light, ABS light all active, that is currently leaking brake fluid and can start a fire at anytime while parked and off, and has power steering disabled, would pass a safety inspection? I live in NC and the and the inspection list mentions brakes and steering, but I'm now realizing they don't specifically mention ABS or power steering. E: I guess I just thought a safety inspection would have a problem with my car missing an important safety feature while also being at risk of starting an engine fire, but if that's not the case, lmao Umbreon fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 21:09
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even some emissions-only states will fail you if your check engine light is on. whether or not the abs problem will also ping your check engine light if you reset it is problem specific, but it wouldnt shock me
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Feb 6, 2024 21:13
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A 50S RAYGUN posted:even some emissions-only states will fail you if your check engine light is on. whether or not the abs problem will also ping your check engine light if you reset it is problem specific, but it wouldn’t shock me The check engine light started happening exactly when the ABS module died, and also went away temporarily when one of the mechanics I took the car to jury-rigged a connector for the module and subsequently got it to work for a few days. While I don't know for sure that they're linked, it at least appears to be likely.
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Feb 6, 2024 21:18
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Umbreon posted:I am seriously about to be mindblown if this is not the case. You're telling me a car with a check engine light, traction light, ABS light all active, that is currently leaking brake fluid and can start a fire at anytime while parked and off, and has power steering disabled, would pass a safety inspection? You didn't say your MIL was on also. In most states ABS, traction control, etc are not part of the inspection crtiteria. I don't do Hyundai, so it's possible that your MIL is on because of the ABS issue - that's not the case in all vehicles. I also find it difficult to believe you or a decent mechanic can't find used parts for this at a salvage yard if they don't exist in the aftermarket. I've found the part you need with a 10 second search. They are all over eBay from salvage cars (sub $100) to refurbished units ($250-ish) which is surprisingly inexpensie if this part is in fact part of a recall/that failure prone and not available from the dealer parts network. Things like that usually end up selling for the price of gold bricks. The failure prone ABS module for that era Jeep is well over $600 if you can find one that actually exists to buy rather than a proomise that it will be back in stock "soon". Whenever I hear lots of financial justifications from someone buying a new car who has to ask if they're making a mistake (usually because they are) I seem to often find that their "can't be repaired" car can be and that is often a much better choice than taking on debt or risk now. Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 21:31
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Motronic posted:You didn't say your MIL was on also. In most states ABS, traction control, etc are not part of the inspection crtiteria. I don't do Hyundai, so it's possible that your MIL is on because of the ABS issue - that's not the case in all vehicles. I wouldn't know the first thing about searching in a salvage yard or retrieving parts from it, but could you link me one of the results you found on eBay? If this really is just a matter of "find this 10 year old part on eBay and take it to a mechanic", I'll gladly do it. My only concern is the fact that I'm buying from some random person on eBay with no guarantee the part is even good, but I'd rather take that chance than getting pulled over again. Likewise, I called an inspection place and they confirmed the check engine light is highly likely to fail the inspection, but also mentioned that it's not a guarantee, so I'll be taking my car there today to roll the dice. I know I probably sounded like one of those people who fly into the thread looking for validation rather than actual help, but I swear I'm not. I've currently got no car payment and a dirt cheap insurance payment, so I certainly won't mind keeping those for longer and building up my savings faster E: And just to make it clear I'm not bullshitting about the recall: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2023/RMISC-23V651-5851.pdf Umbreon fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Feb 6, 2024 |
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Feb 6, 2024 21:51
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Umbreon posted:Right, I probably should have said that earlier, my bad. The issue is currently unfixable not because I can't afford it, but because the part required isn't available anywhere I can find. My car is a 2013 Hyundai Elantra, and the ABS module is broken alongside some sort of housing/casing that contains it. Every mechanic I've been to says the same two things, they can't fix it without replacing the module and casing, and no dealer has the module in stock. Coincidentally, there is an active recall from Hyundai for this exact issue, and it also is listed as "remedy not yet available". It's been this way since September with no change in sight. And give that my car has no power steering and 3 different warning lights on because of this, I severely doubt it'll pass the safety inspection. (I would very much love to be wrong though, please say so if I am)
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Feb 6, 2024 21:56
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DildenAnders posted:I'm not exactly well-versed in these regards, but if there's an active recall causing/contributing to your cars lack of drivability, would you not be able to receive a loaner/rental reimbursement from Hyundai? I didn't see anything about this on their website or the recall information, but I'll call them up about it and find out. Would certainly make things easier for me if this was the case
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Feb 6, 2024 22:02
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 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2023/RCMN-23V651-4592.pdf
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Feb 6, 2024 22:03
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In my defense, the recall information I was originally given back in November appears to be a summary and left that part out. I had even called my local Hyundai dealer to confirm the recall and they confirmed it but made no mention of the free rental or asked if I wanted one. After I take my car for the inspection, next up is to give them another call and secure a rental if it fails inspection. Thanks guys.
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Feb 6, 2024 22:15
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Umbreon posted:In my defense, the recall information I was originally given back in November appears to be a summary and left that part out. I had even called my local Hyundai dealer to confirm the recall and they confirmed it but made no mention of the free rental or asked if I wanted one. No need for defense, you made the right decision by asking for help before making a major (and very costly) long-term decision that you were very unsure of. That being said, unless a dealership is trying to sell you something, they are not going to go out of their way to offer help or services that ultimately take up their time/money. You have to be your own advocate and find/push for those resources yourself. Don't let yourself be a passenger in your own affairs. You might have to bother people consistently. But don't give up, you were sold a defective product, you should be given a replacement until they can rectify your issue. They will likely try to blow you off, but if you make it more annoying for them to ignore you than it is for them to help you, you will usually be helped.
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Feb 6, 2024 22:33
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Another angle: Don't act like it's a given that you will fail for no ABS or no power steering. Most state inspections look at things like: working blinkers, working horn, tires not visibly deformed, acceptable levels of pollution, lack of emissions-control fuckery. How much is an inspection in your state? $50? Do some state-specific research, go for an inspection (don't act like it's a given you're going to fail, don't be sheepish or weird, don't give them a reason to go out of their way to fail you), and see what happens. Buy yourself some time to get into a car without compromising your medium-to-long term financial outlook.
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Feb 6, 2024 22:44
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Just gonna chime in here as Safety Dad but ABS is a very helpful safety feature and I wouldnt drive a car without it. Regardless of whether my car could pass or not.
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Feb 6, 2024 22:46
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dexter6 posted:Just gonna chime in here as Safety Dad… but ABS is a very helpful safety feature and I wouldn’t drive a car without it. Regardless of whether my car could pass or not. Not a car person, but isn't driving a car that comes with power steering without power steering also loving dangerous?
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Feb 7, 2024 01:10
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Ham Equity posted:Not a car person, but isn't driving a car that comes with power steering without power steering also loving dangerous? Its not actually hard to steer a car in motion without power steering. When stationary its a pain in the rear end, but thats not a high risk situation. Disclaimer: last time I drove a car without power steering was like 1998
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Feb 7, 2024 01:58
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drk posted:Its not actually hard to steer a car in motion without power steering. When stationary its a pain in the rear end, but thats not a high risk situation.
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Feb 7, 2024 02:09
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Not a car guy, but I dont think so. Power steering is a hydraulic system that assists in steering, not some sort of steer by wire system. The steering wheel is still mechanically linked to the wheels.
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Feb 7, 2024 02:25
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Umbreon posted:I'm in a situation where I need to replace my vehicle ASAP... So then what would you use your emergency fund for, if not to bridge you from where you are to a solution that lets you avoid known and probable further problems like big tickets, license suspension, loss of job if you can't make it to work, etc.? Other posters are giving good advice that might help you avoid the need altogether and you should absolutely explore those adventures first, but as a bit of general advice: you shouldn't save all your potions for a future boss fight that might never come if you're in need of one now. Unless you have tangible, specific reasons to worry about losing your income, having some other huge expense related to the home, or being unable to pay down your mortgage where you really really need that extra safety cushion of an emergency fund... then a car emergency is just as good a use of it as any. After that happens, you dust yourself off and start replenishing the fund as your first priority.
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Feb 7, 2024 02:26
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Update on my car: Failed inspection. Not surprised, the check engine light is what failed it. According to the mechanic, the error code is complaining about the ABS wheel speed sensor, which lines up with everything else I've seen so far. He did confirm he can order a replacement, so I'm coming back on Saturday to see if that will get it to pass inspection. The mechanic was an extremely cool guy, he charged me nothing for my failed inspection and said he can probably replace the sensor for $90, part included. If this actually gets my car to pass inspection, I'll give him double that lol. He's doing everything he can think of to try and help me pass the inspection, which is really refreshing compared to other mechanics who just tell me they can't do poo poo. Assuming everything goes well and I can get my car to pass inspection (and then later fixed or dropped off at the dealer), I'm going to be clearing out my last debt and then finishing rebuilding my emergency savings up higher, and once that is all taken care of I'm thinking about leasing instead of buying. Some of the research I was doing made a really good point about buying EVs right now, the technology for it is rapidly changing/improving, what was available even just a couple years ago is a big difference than what is available right now, and in the next few years it will likely be another big jump. While I don't plan to sell the next car I actually buy, I also don't want to wait a few years before I can drive an EV. Given that my job will literally hand me $4,800 for buying an EV if I work there for at least 3 years, I'm thinking I should lease an EV for 3 years, return it at the end of the lease, and by then I'll have a massive down payment ready for the car I actually do buy between my savings, the $7500 tax credit, and the $4800 credit I get from my job. How crazy does that plan sound? Is it stupid?
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Feb 7, 2024 03:13
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Umbreon posted:Update on my car: How much would a lease cost over 3 years vs just keep the car you have ?
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Feb 7, 2024 12:32
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Duckman2008 posted:How much would a lease cost over 3 years vs just keep the car you have ? Given how much trouble it's giving me and how much it cost me over the last year alone (far more than any total value it had left, and it will likely be incurring additional expenses soon), I don't want to keep the car I have indefinitely. I'll be driving it until my savings are replenished and I have enough for a comfortable down payment and hoping it didn't cost me even more in emergency repairs by then. To answer your question more directly though, I'm not sure, as the costs I'm facing right now are highly variable and I'm more concerned about the costs and risks of continuing to drive the car as it continues to break down at increasing frequency for different reasons.
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Feb 7, 2024 12:51
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If you feel the car is or will soon be unsafe/illegal to drive then its worth replacing it. The same applies if its going to need constant repairs to keep it going. I replaced a 143k mile 2001 Honda Odyssey back in 2012 when it became apparent that it was going to need a transmission rebuild every couple of months to keep it on the road. Even if the repeated repairs aren't super expensive at some point you have to look at how much time you are spending getting them done over and over again. I look at cars from a total cost of ownership perspective. So purchase price + finance charges + expected fuel cost + expected insurance cost + expected maintenance cost over a 10+ year period. I get whatever has the lowest total cost among the cars that I feel can fit my needs. If I don't need to finance a given car then that car naturally gets an advantage in the equation. I also do not ever include expected trade in value or anything like that. If I do finance a car then I compare the rate on the loan vs what I can expect from an investment of the same time horizon as the loan duration. So 5 years or less. Equities don't make sense on such short time scales so it really comes down to shorter duration bonds and money market funds. Car loans pretty much always have higher rates than those things so I always end up paying down the loan early. Note that I do not include an early payoff in my initial pre purchase calculation. For this reason I always make sure there are no prepayment limits or penalties when I finance a car. This process means I will probably never own a BMW, Merc, SUV, or truck and I am fine with that. In fact the last time this process did end up with me financing a car for myself it was a new Honda Civic that I drove for 10 years. When I last ran this calculation for my wife we bought another Honda Odyssey. Antillie fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Feb 7, 2024 |
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Feb 7, 2024 16:10
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I'm trying to figure out what the tax implications would be for an investment sale, which requires knowing the cost basis for a given sale. I can't find that information anywhere on my Vanguard accounts. Does anyone know if it's possible to know this in advance? Obviously it'd be a somewhat rough estimate, since the actual value of the transaction will depend on the market price at the time the sale goes through; I'm just trying to get a rough sense of whether it'd be worth cashing out investments to pay for something, vs. pursuing other methods.
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Feb 18, 2024 05:10
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drk posted:Its not actually hard to steer a car in motion without power steering. When stationary its a pain in the rear end, but thats not a high risk situation. I had a 2007 Impala whose power steering failed and it became a safety issue. You're right that it wasn't particularly difficult to maneuver, but for the week or so I drove it until I could get it fixed it didn't respond the way my muscle memory, practice, and experience with that particular vehicle (and cars in general) told me it was going to respond. Call it a driver side safety issue maybe, it's tough to override your subconscious feelings based on the way things have always been.
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Feb 18, 2024 05:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm trying to figure out what the tax implications would be for an investment sale, which requires knowing the cost basis for a given sale. I can't find that information anywhere on my Vanguard accounts. Does anyone know if it's possible to know this in advance? Obviously it'd be a somewhat rough estimate, since the actual value of the transaction will depend on the market price at the time the sale goes through; I'm just trying to get a rough sense of whether it'd be worth cashing out investments to pay for something, vs. pursuing other methods. it's there somewhere. https://investor.vanguard.com/search#q=cost%20basis when VG redid their web design a few years back, cost basis became a pain in the rear end to find hidden between layers of unintuitive clicks and eventually leading back to the old design site. I remember dealing with it before I left them. don't know where it is today. you can call support but they're not open on weekends and probably not open tomorrow due to the holiday (?). my current broker has all that stuff in an up-front, obvious place and 24/7/365 support.
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Feb 18, 2024 14:42
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pmchem posted:it's there somewhere. Aha, thanks. The relevant link was https://cost-basis.web.vanguard.com/unrealized, for the record. And yeah, it's weirdly hard to find.
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Feb 18, 2024 15:35
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pmchem posted:it's there somewhere. Its... 3 clicks after logging in? Click holdings, click the individual holding, click "cost basis summary". Seems intuitive to me, and none of it requires the old site.
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Feb 18, 2024 17:48
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Rookie question about savings and taxes: Let's say I put $100k into a American Express HYSA that has a 4.35% return. I live in Georgia. At the end of the year, I should have close to $104,350 in the account, right? How much would I lose when I file my taxes?
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Feb 24, 2024 21:39
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Hughmoris posted:Rookie question about savings and taxes: I assume you're in the 22% marginal tax bracket. You would owe (not lose) ($4,350 * 22%) = $957. Same math for your state income taxes. Great news, you still have $3000 more.
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Feb 24, 2024 21:48
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Interest is taxed as ordinary income, so whatever your marginal rate is both federal and state
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Feb 24, 2024 21:50
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H110Hawk posted:I assume you're in the 22% marginal tax bracket. You would owe (not lose) ($4,350 * 22%) = $957. Same math for your state income taxes. Great news, you still have $3000 more. Guinness posted:Interest is taxed as ordinary income, so whatever your marginal rate is both federal and state Ok that makes sense. And you're right, owe not lose. I have money sitting in my credit union savings account right now. I'm contemplating shoving it into the American Express HYSA to at least be earning something until I can better understand my different options.
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Feb 24, 2024 22:00
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Hughmoris posted:Ok that makes sense. And you're right, owe not lose. the time to do that is now. especially when you see the extra money flowing in. I would probably look for something that is at 5%+ rather than the 4.35% its offering but that's better than the rates banks given for savings accounts. so better to just do it than not.
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Feb 24, 2024 22:02
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Hughmoris posted:Ok that makes sense. And you're right, owe not lose. I wouldn't overthink this, it's basically free money. If you don't need it for your monthly cashflow just have... more of it. If you wind up not liking the AmEx HYSA just try another one. You're only out 30 minutes or so to sign up.
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Feb 24, 2024 22:04
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Hughmoris posted:Rookie question about savings and taxes: If you already have a brokerage account, you can do better than that with a money market fund or ultra-short treasury ETF and potentially be state tax exempt as well. If you dont have a brokerage account, maybe now is the time.
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Feb 25, 2024 01:59
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Seeing that the s&p is at major high, my SPY etfs are worth a nice chunk of change. but inevitably, number go down. any other financial instruments worth looking into to lock in these gains without it all being eaten by interest, tax, etc? Im not looking to buy real estate for another 10ish years. And Im definitely not looking to sell all my SPY, but maybe like 10-20%.
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Feb 27, 2024 17:44
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Why do you want to sell? Are you making a large purchase? Unless you've identified that you're not comfortable with your investment allocation or you're buying something, there's no reason to sell. If you don't like having that much in stocks, you should consider permanently changing your allocation to be heavier towards bonds. Don't time the market.
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Feb 27, 2024 18:50
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I'll provide a contrary point of view: inevitably, number will come down for a short time period but (very simplistically) barring significant, pervasive, global GDP contraction the market gonna go up in the long run. https://www.plantemoran.com/explore-our-thinking/insight/2024/02/how-common-are-all-time-highs-for-stocks edit: it may also be instructive for you to ponder what benefit "locking in gains" actually will provide you KYOON GRIFFEY JR fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Feb 27, 2024 |
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Feb 27, 2024 19:00
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Crosspost from daily chat: We just hit 100k in Ally which is one one hand amazing, on the other... Some opportunity cost vs brokerage. I'm curious what y'all do with long term savings goals in brokerage, excluding stuff like efund and planned vacations etc. things like home upgrades, new cars that don't have a finite date or amount I love buckets and allocations in Ally. Is there some simple equivalent to virtual buckets in a brokerage? Even if it's a spreadsheet. Tracking cost basis of percentages of contributions sounds like a nightmare and I don't want it to become some giant slush fund. Our brokerage is Fidelity btw
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Feb 27, 2024 21:16
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root of all eval posted:Crosspost from daily chat: The only thing I've come up with is to use different tickers for different things. Efund in SGOV, new car fund in SPRXX, floating cash in SPAXX, ect... There are a few other short term bond ETFs (and FTEXX I guess) out there that I could probably use as well if I needed more buckets. Its not a great system but it works for me at least. Antillie fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Feb 28, 2024 |
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Feb 28, 2024 01:11
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i just use a spreadsheet?
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Feb 28, 2024 01:16
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I have a note in the Notes app with this information on my phone. I keep track of a lot of stuff there, which is maybe weird but the bulk of it is only updated once a month so \_(ツ)_/
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Feb 28, 2024 01:43
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