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Also check all of the evap system, a purge can be commanded by the ECU in that situation and it could purge into the engine bay rather than make it all the way into the engine, causing the smell.
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Jun 11, 2014 17:31
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Excuse me fellow lesbians - my 05 Forester has recently started having trouble starting. I'm pretty sure it's something drawing on the battery while the car is shut down, because only the first start of the day and the first start after work are bad and after I've been driving for awhile I can restart it easily. Coincidentally, my sunroof also started acting weird around the same time. If I hit the switch, the sunroof only moves like two inches. Then I have to release and press the switch again to move it another two inches. repeat until the sunroof is closed or open. Is it possible that the switch is failing and possibly drawing current, which would account for the battery drain? I was thinking about opening up the sunroof switch housing tonight and disconnecting it to see if that would stop the issue. Does that sound like a good first step for diagnosis? Bonus question: I've been torquing my lugnuts on my factory alloy rims to 69 ft-lbs. Is that right?
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Jun 13, 2014 04:07
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DrakeriderCa posted:Excuse me fellow lesbians - my 05 Forester has recently started having trouble starting. I'm pretty sure it's something drawing on the battery while the car is shut down, because only the first start of the day and the first start after work are bad and after I've been driving for awhile I can restart it easily. Sounds more like a failing alternator TBH. Measure the voltage of the battery (or better yet the alternator->ground voltage) when the car is running and report back! If you don't have a voltmeter it's a good idea to buy one.
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Jun 13, 2014 04:43
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VelociBacon posted:Sounds more like a failing alternator TBH. Measure the voltage of the battery (or better yet the alternator->ground voltage) when the car is running and report back! If you don't have a voltmeter it's a good idea to buy one. Really? But it seems to pick up a charge nice and quick. I thought if it was the alternator I would still have trouble starting on subsequent starts. But if I drive for a bit, the following starts are much easier.
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Jun 13, 2014 07:36
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Sunroof could be the tracks needing lubed. There's a big thread over on the Forester Forum about sunroofs and that's one of the things people mention. The other is a failing motor for the sunroof. That usually manifests itself first as the sunroof going forward, hitting the air deflector and stopping, rather than folding it down and closing. Then you have to hold the button down to get it to close. If that's been happening lately, I would look at the motor.
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Jun 13, 2014 10:59
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For anyone waiting on a '15 OB, you can now build & price on https://www.subaru.com/vehicles/outback/index.html
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Jun 13, 2014 21:25
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So my Saabaru brake pedal has always felt too soft to me, and I definitely noticed it after replacing my rear pads and rotors a few months ago. It feels like there's an inch or two of travel and it's pretty soft after that. It stops fine if I jam it all the way down, but I'd like a firmer pedal with less travel. I bled the system today (firs time, not sure if I hosed it up, see http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2341562&pagenumber=1081#post431022324 ) and it didn't improve much. Anything else I should look at? This is driving me crazy and it's frustrating me that I don't understand what's going wrong. Part of me is ready to take it to someone but I really want to learn what is happening. I'm also not sure if this maybe just the way it is stock - I don't remember what the pedal feel was like when I first got the car. I've heard someone else here complain about the brakes on their 92x. Oh yeah, also, what's this white thing under the filter in my master cylinder? Does that stay there or should I take it out when adding fluid? 
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Jun 14, 2014 06:30
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Try a gravity bleed. Very simple- just open the bleeder and let it drain naturally with the fluid topped off. Give each wheel about 5-10 minutes. Then do the standard bleed procedure once or twice per wheel. The next thing you can do is a master cylinder brace. I noticed that that firmed up the pedal feel more than stainless lines or a good bleed, but I'm fairly happy with how the pedal feels. The only thing I can do now to make them better is a set of 4-pots.
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Jun 14, 2014 06:44
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So don't bother with tubing on the nipple or anything with the gravity bleed? I have the grimmspeed brace on order, it looks the least intrusive.
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Jun 14, 2014 07:34
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Yeah, still put tubing on there and run it to a bottle so you don't make a mess and can see if air is coming out.
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Jun 14, 2014 07:39
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I've lurked here for a while and, despite everyone's better judgement, purchased a 2015 STI Limited (everything but Nav) a few weeks ago. It's a wonderful vehicle, and my only gripe is how the SI-Drive affects how sensitive the accelerator is (S# is pretty extreme, especially in 1st). I've read that one of Cobb's recently released maps will address this, so I'm going to fiddle with it tomorrow. Who knows! A lot more fun than my RSX, though... 
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Jun 14, 2014 09:21
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Who makes the wheels for the new wrx/sti? They look a lot like Work's, but they're definitely not emotions. I'm having trouble finding the part number for the bolt that connects the intake manifold to the TGVS; can anyone help a brotha out? 08 WRX 
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Jun 14, 2014 12:07
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McSpatula posted:Who makes the wheels for the new wrx/sti? They look a lot like Work's, but they're definitely not emotions. Enkei, at least on the WRX.
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Jun 14, 2014 16:54
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TastySauce posted:I've lurked here for a while and, despite everyone's better judgement, purchased a 2015 STI Limited (everything but Nav) a few weeks ago. It's a wonderful vehicle, and my only gripe is how the SI-Drive affects how sensitive the accelerator is (S# is pretty extreme, especially in 1st). I've read that one of Cobb's recently released maps will address this, so I'm going to fiddle with it tomorrow. Who knows! A lot more fun than my RSX, though... RSX-S to STI Ltd was the exact jump I made in 2012. I feel the same way about sport #; I just leave mine in sport all the time and that's fine with me driving around. The Cobb AP was a great thing, even the OTS tune did a lot for mine and hopefully you see a similar experience.
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Jun 14, 2014 17:47
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blk posted:
Can anyone clue me in to what this disc in the reservoir under the filter is?
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Jun 14, 2014 22:40
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Midjack posted:RSX-S to STI Ltd was the exact jump I made in 2012. I feel the same way about sport #; I just leave mine in sport all the time and that's fine with me driving around. The Cobb AP was a great thing, even the OTS tune did a lot for mine and hopefully you see a similar experience. Hah! Good choice. The Cobb AP fixed the car right up, and yeah, I agree that sport is really the only mode that makes sense unless there's some "spirited driving" going on.
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Jun 14, 2014 23:03
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blk posted:Can anyone clue me in to what this disc in the reservoir under the filter is? Its probably a float attached to a sensor that measures the brake fluid level. When it detects the fluid level is low, the brake light on your dash lights up.
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Jun 15, 2014 01:47
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Elder Postsman posted:Ok, cool. That's what I'll do when I get back to it on Saturday, I guess. Welp, I got completely owned by first the weather and then being sick, but I tried for a bit on Sunday and couldn't even fit a socket+breaker bar between the bottom nuts and the axle. I guess I'm gonna try a shallow socket maybe? I don't think I'm gonna have this car running by July 1st like my wife wants.
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Jun 16, 2014 22:06
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TastySauce posted:I've lurked here for a while and, despite everyone's better judgement, purchased a 2015 STI Limited (everything but Nav) a few weeks ago. It's a wonderful vehicle, and my only gripe is how the SI-Drive affects how sensitive the accelerator is (S# is pretty extreme, especially in 1st). I've read that one of Cobb's recently released maps will address this, so I'm going to fiddle with it tomorrow. Who knows! A lot more fun than my RSX, though... 'sup '15 buddy  . I've been wondering, how is the suspension for every day driving? The WRX is firm, and I imagine the STI is harder. I don't think I'd like the WRX if it were any firmer.
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Jun 17, 2014 03:06
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Rce has had them both on the shock dyno and they are very similar. Oh and I won't have any phone/internet service this week, so if anyone needs anything I won't be able to reply until sometime Saturday evening.
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Jun 17, 2014 03:25
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rcman50166 posted:'sup '15 buddy I'm a bad guy to ask. My RSX-S was incredibly jarring over any bumps since I'd swapped out the suspension for something really stiff, so the STI has always felt great by comparison. I've gone for a ride in my friend's '13 WRX and it feels about as comfortable as my car as far as daily driving goes, though.
TastySauce fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 06:00
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The wife wants a new car and she really likes the new bodystyle Outbacks. I've owned 4 Subys in the past but I don't know much about the new outbacks. I'll probably look a 2011-2012ish. Is there anything in particular I should know about these?
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Jun 17, 2014 07:17
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From a few weeks ago when I asked the very same question.si posted:Yes, the 4th gen Legacy is still a compact car in size, the 5th gen stepped it up to a mid-size. It's a big difference in the rear seating area for sure. Downside is that it's a much bigger car, but it doesn't sound like that's a downside for you. In related news. I pulled the trigger. 
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Jun 17, 2014 13:35
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^Congrats dayman! Do you guys replace the half-moon plastic guys when you do valve cover gaskets (if they're not the part leaking)? I've been told by a couple people that they're a bitch to seal so unless they're leaking just leave them there and replace everything else.
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Jun 17, 2014 18:44
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VelociBacon posted:^Congrats dayman! Thanks, went with the manual transmission. Apparently, one of the last Outback's manufactured with one since 2014 is the last model year and this one was their most recent and last delivery of them. Overall the car drives great. The seating position is the classic chair-like Subaru style. Steering feels just heavy enough and connected for such a large vehicle. Complaints so far. The center console material is this soft touch type stuff and, while it feels nice, it instantly got ripped up in the first ride we took with our dog. The second complaint applies to the manual only but the shifter is pretty lovely. I think it shows that that don't sell a lot of these in manual because, for a car where the build quality and solidness of the doors, steering, and brakes is noticeably improved over past generations; the shifter clunks from gear to gear with all the precision of a foam board mockup of a shifter linkage from an 8th grade science fair. It feels like it was ripped straight from a 1995 Nissan Sentra. This complaint does not apply to the CVT which I found quite a bit more refined. So why manual? Three reasons: 1) My wife is strangely attached to them and doesn't yet trust vehicles without a third pedal 2) It was a good $2500 cheaper and the dealer was more willing to accept our offer because they're reportedly much harder to sell. 3) I'm planning on doing all the work myself and I understand a gearbox, the voodoo that is a CVT is way beyond me. Additionally, despite me expounding on the lack of precision in the gearbox, this is a soccer mom mobile. My wife isn't gonna be complaining about how the lovely gearbox is adding tenths to her auto-x lap times. dayman fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jun 17, 2014 |
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Jun 17, 2014 20:05
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I want to wear flannel, is this a good car for flannel wearing? http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/4525493936.html Price and "patina" seem problematic, but I'm wondering if I should even bother going to look at it. I want a project car to wrench on while my family fleet of hondas continue with their boring reliability. Any suggestions regarding purchasing older Impreza's? Things to watch out for? (hopefully I posted this in the correct thread)
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Jun 19, 2014 15:59
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PaintVagrant posted:I want to wear flannel, is this a good car for flannel wearing? You will need to have a welder to fix that rust. If you buy new front fenders you can use them as patch material to patch the rear. 1998 was a special snowflake because its a DOHC motor instead of SOHC. (read: worse) Read the OP regarding those. Ideally they should have paperwork for the timing belt and headgaskets if they want 3k for it. I honestly don't think RS's should be worth that much but everyone thinks the GC chassis RS is a special snowflake. I've seen 2002's go for 600 dollars. I've seen 90's 2.2s go for 500 dollars. A lovely badge and a crappy motor should not increase the price by 2500, but that's up to you to decide if it's worth it.
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Jun 19, 2014 16:05
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Slow is Fast posted:You will need to have a welder to fix that rust. If you buy new front fenders you can use them as patch material to patch the rear. I have no particular attachment to the DOHC engine, especially knowing what the OP says about NA subarus (slow, deal with it). Appreciate the post, it sounds like the seller has some inflated ideas of what the car is worth. Some of it has to do with rarity of that body style here in the rust belt, they rarely pop up on CL and usually are ragged out garbage. I might have to spread the net further (geographically) if I want to find a good project.
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Jun 19, 2014 16:10
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PaintVagrant posted:I want to wear flannel, is this a good car for flannel wearing? That shell looks beat to hell. What's the overall goal of your project? Swap, restore, just get it working well enough to pass inspection? Things to watch out for are the quarter panel rust (which is pretty loving extensive on this car), head gasket leaks, bad gearbox synchros, bad wheel bearings. The price is too high, this guy is trying to sell this RS as a collector car, but honestly, there's nothing really special about these cars (I used to own one). If you really want a wrenching project, buy a nicer shell and WRX swap it for only slightly more money. I'm laughing because it seems like the guy is flipping off the car in the third pic.
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Jun 19, 2014 16:11
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I would say my goal is "value oriented ownership", in that I have a cool side project to fiddle with and drive like an rear end in a top hat on the weekends. I think at this point I am just going to go visit my parents in FL and buy a car while I am there and drive it home. MI cars are the worst, everything more than 5 years old has a lot of rust issues. Flipping off your license plate seems to be a CL tradition, I am finding. Thanks for the help gents, I will dig into the thread some more to help better inform my purchase.
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Jun 19, 2014 16:17
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PaintVagrant posted:I have no particular attachment to the DOHC engine, especially knowing what the OP says about NA subarus (slow, deal with it). Find a less rusty impreza. A 2.2L 5 speed will be PLENTY of fun and wont cost you as much or you can get newer bugeye RS's for cheap as well.
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Jun 19, 2014 16:39
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Cross-posting from the stupid questions thread: Just had a bunch of work done on my 03 Outback 5MT and then went on vacation for a week. Got back last night and now when I start the car the first two turns I make cause a loud squeal and it feels like the power steering doesn't work. After that the power steering works fine. I didn't have any work done on the power steering system but is it possible something got knocked loose? I checked the reservoir and it is actually a touch above the max line, would excess power steering fluid cause a problem?
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Jun 19, 2014 17:23
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Where does the squeal come from? Engine bay or underneath you?
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Jun 19, 2014 17:33
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door Door door posted:Cross-posting from the stupid questions thread: Accessory belt slipping? Are they in good condition? IE not cracked and rotted looking.
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Jun 19, 2014 19:18
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Where does the squeal come from? Engine bay or underneath you? Definitely from the engine bay. It might be partially cold start related since the problem is still present this afternoon but not as severe as this morning. Aflicted posted:Accessory belt slipping? Are they in good condition? IE not cracked and rotted looking. Had the timing and drive belts replaced as part of that service, so they should be fine. Also, the PO had installed an aftermarket head unit that got in the way of the DIN storage pocket's door, so he just pulled the door off. But he left the springs on the hinge, so when I pulled the center trim off to try and swap the storage pockets around, one of the springs disappeared to who the gently caress knows where. If it ended up inside the dash could it short something out the next time I start the car up? e: Rogue spring situation appears to be under control. But as I got further into taking the head unit rack out, I found something weird: this thing to the right of the rack.  It clearly had to be taken out before the rack could come out, but the Haynes manual makes no mention of it. What is it? It's kind of hard to see in the photo but it has a wiring harness running from the bottom of it. Also, the manual claims that the head units can be pulled out without touching the climate controls up top but it looked to me like they're all in the same rack. I knew Haynes was bad for these cars but sheesh. door Door door fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Jun 19, 2014 |
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Jun 19, 2014 21:03
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door Door door posted:
That would be your security module, guessing yours came equipped with the security package, could also be keyless entry module but that usually sits by the passenger a pillar behind the dash if I'm not mistaken. Don't worry about the spring, it's not going to short anything.
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Jun 19, 2014 23:17
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My old car had taped and twisted wires, some soldered, and take being tape it fell off so they were mostly exposed, it only shorted once, which is what prompted me to open it, only to find that mess. A spring will be fine.
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Jun 20, 2014 02:40
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TastySauce posted:I've lurked here for a while and, despite everyone's better judgement, purchased a 2015 STI Limited (everything but Nav) a few weeks ago. It's a wonderful vehicle, and my only gripe is how the SI-Drive affects how sensitive the accelerator is (S# is pretty extreme, especially in 1st). I've read that one of Cobb's recently released maps will address this, so I'm going to fiddle with it tomorrow. Who knows! A lot more fun than my RSX, though... I bought a thing also 
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Jun 20, 2014 03:42
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si posted:Yes, the 4th gen Legacy is still a compact car in size, the 5th gen stepped it up to a mid-size. It's a big difference in the rear seating area for sure. Downside is that it's a much bigger car, but it doesn't sound like that's a downside for you. This explains a lot. Here I thought it was just another case of the average compact car getting larger.
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Jun 20, 2014 19:34
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| # ? May 25, 2024 09:56 |
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 Link.
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Jun 20, 2014 20:19
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