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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Assuming the extinguisher is not used, what kind of service does it require? If the needle is pointing at the green region, is the extinguisher still good? There's a big ol' metal bastard in my garage that was here when I bought the house, I have no idea how old it is, but its indicator is in the green, so Recharging the propellant mostly. Plus there are some types of extinguishers you want to update if the purpose of the room has changed since it was originally installed. For instance, you don't want to use a water extinguisher in a server room.
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Nov 6, 2017 20:48
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I have a 25+ year old Halon aerosol extinguisher that has been with me since college. No telling how many little grease fires it's put out. Gonna be sad when it finally runs out. I'm sure there's a bunch of reasons Halon is bad (I think it destroyed the ozone which is the reason they gave for outlawing it), but man does it work great.
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Nov 6, 2017 20:59
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I'm not sure where best to put this but I figured I would ask here. I am looking for a full motion wall mount. Is there anything in particular I need to look for or avoid. I was looking at this one. I am going to put a little 32" on it now but want to leave myself the option of going to 55" or 65".
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Nov 6, 2017 21:28
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DEUSFORORUM posted:I'm not sure where best to put this but I figured I would ask here. What kind of wall are you putting it on? If it's a stud wall, how far apart are they?
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Nov 7, 2017 01:18
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kid sinister posted:What kind of wall are you putting it on? If it's a stud wall, how far apart are they? Just a normal stud wall with 16" spacing.
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Nov 7, 2017 02:15
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DEUSFORORUM posted:Just a normal stud wall with 16" spacing. Then you shouldn't have a problem mounting it to the wall. If you want hidden power, getting that there is a little tougher. The weird thing you might discover is that smaller TVs use standard VESA hole patterns that aren't very big. I haven't tried, but I imagine it's possible that the mounting brackets made for a larger TV would overstretch a little 32" TV on the top and bottom. They should still fit though.
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Nov 7, 2017 02:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Assuming the extinguisher is not used, what kind of service does it require? If the needle is pointing at the green region, is the extinguisher still good? There's a big ol' metal bastard in my garage that was here when I bought the house, I have no idea how old it is, but its indicator is in the green, so Annual. Most are cheap and cheerful. At certain periods depending on extinguisher type and pressure vessel thing get a bit more expensive. Seal replacements and hydro tests. For the people who I haven't beat into their heads yet: I'm former code enforcement and in fact a brass pass legit former fire marshal of a small town. Take that for what you will, but I at least used to know my poo poo. Fire protection hasn't changed that much in the last 5 or so years.
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Nov 7, 2017 03:06
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Motronic posted:Annual. So if the fire extinguisher is already holding pressure are the seal replacement and pressure testing just to ensure that it... continues to hold pressure?
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Nov 7, 2017 04:05
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TheGreasyStrangler posted:So if the fire extinguisher is already holding pressure are the seal replacement and pressure testing just to ensure that it... continues to hold pressure? Preventative maintenance is a thing. Rubber is a natural product. It degrades over time.
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Nov 7, 2017 05:27
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Annual inspection. You don't actually replace the seals every year.
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Nov 7, 2017 12:39
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kid sinister posted:Then you shouldn't have a problem mounting it to the wall. If you want hidden power, getting that there is a little tougher.
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Nov 7, 2017 14:09
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I️ think the legrand ones include the circular cut out. I have one in my kitchen, works great for not wanting to wire.
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Nov 7, 2017 14:12
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glynnenstein posted:Annual inspection. You don't actually replace the seals every year. Exactly. You don't replace the seals every year, but you want them looked at so that they can be safely replaced before they fail and potentially make a huge mess of whatever room the extinguisher lives in. e: It's like a car tire. Most of the time when they fail they're just going to slowly lose pressure and go flat on you, every once in a while though one fails in the form of a blowout. A blowout of a fire extinguisher seal would spray the contents of the extinguisher and possibly parts of the extinguisher nozzle all over the place at a fairly high rate of speed. PremiumSupport fucked around with this message at 16:12 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 16:03
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One student house I lived in lacked an extinguisher, the land lady was very apologetic and delivered one the next day when I noticed. I put it in the kitchen and a week late it developed a leak in the side of the body, hosing down the entire kitchen with nasty ancient foaming agent. It was some 15-years past best but I was naive enough not to check when she passed it over. I imagine she looked at the dial and thought "it holds pressure, must be good"
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Nov 7, 2017 16:14
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TheGreasyStrangler posted:So if the fire extinguisher is already holding pressure are the seal replacement and pressure testing just to ensure that it... continues to hold pressure? Seals often fail in a way that they hold pressure until the valve is operated. They then do not re-seal. This is not something you want to find out when you need to use the extinguisher. Gauges can fail in ways that make an extinguisher look like it has pressure when it in fact is not. Pressure vessels can corrode internally and no longer be safe to remain under pressure. The media/agent in the extinguisher will become compacted and not flow properly.
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Nov 7, 2017 17:54
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Didn't see a furnace/heating thread to post this in - looking for help understanding if my short cycling furnace indicates a problem with the Hi limit switch itself, or if the switch is doing its job properly and there is something else/bigger at issue. Bought a house this spring, the furnace is a Goodman GMT090 from 1998 or so. It is currently keeping my house warm, so that's a plus. The furnace will run, burners ignite and run for 2-5 minutes, then it cuts out for a while, then runs again, etc. The flash code points to the Hi Limit switch, and when the thing stops burning I could see about a 1kohm of resistance on the main limit switch when testing it - after letting everything cool it drops down to nothing. If its just a bad switch I'm happy to swap that sucker out myself, but I am a bit unsure if what I am seeing is actually indicating a problem with the switch or if the switch is working perfectly and stopping a bigger problem from occurring. Just swapped out the filter for a new one from Nordic Pure, which despite the somewhat dire name was supposed to be a good brand, but the issue remains. EDIT - I did a bit more digging and found a service manual, and the part they've got listed for the high limit switch is in fact different from the label of the part installed currently. Quick call to Goodman who confirmed the B1370190 part number to be correct, but she said the B1370198 part that is installed is also OK. From what I can see the current -98 part has a 150* value, and the -90 has a 210* value. How both parts are correct is confusing, but the CSR I was speaking with was relaying every question to someone from the parts side so there may have been something lost in translation. It seems like the limit switch being 60* lower could explain why its tripping regularly, and why the furnace itself seems to be otherwise working well. Am I going to blow up my house by just replacing it with the original part number with the higher limit to see if it helps? Altimeter fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Nov 7, 2017 |
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Nov 7, 2017 19:09
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Motronic posted:Seals often fail in a way that they hold pressure until the valve is operated. They then do not re-seal. This is not something you want to find out when you need to use the extinguisher. Thanks, a replacement is going on my list for when I go shopping next.
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Nov 8, 2017 01:14
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Have a question about a fence. So the north side of my yard has a chainlink fence that is the neighbors. It's about 4 feet high, and I'd like it to be a little taller, I think my dog could possibly get over it. Can I install my own picket fence up against it? I'm not really sure what the best option is, maybe ask her if I can pay to make it taller for those twenty feet? I
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Nov 8, 2017 18:00
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Are you in a subdivision/subject to a HOA? Because often there are very restrictive covenants about fencing.
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Nov 8, 2017 18:16
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Have a question about a fence. So the north side of my yard has a chainlink fence that is the neighbors. It's about 4 feet high, and I'd like it to be a little taller, I think my dog could possibly get over it. Can I install my own picket fence up against it? I'm not really sure what the best option is, maybe ask her if I can pay to make it taller for those twenty feet? I Your best bet is coordinating with your neighbor to increase the height of the fence, though with a chain link it might not be easy, as the posts will have to be replaced or somehow extended to support the new height. Fences are generally set back from the property line by 4-6 inches, depending on local codes. A fence on your property will not be directly against your neighbors, but it will create a space that neither of you will be able to get to easily for weed control.
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Nov 8, 2017 18:26
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I have a "half-pint" maple syrup evaporator on my patio that I'd like to permanently move behind my garage before sap season next spring. I'd like it to be as close as I practically can for space reasons, without burning down my garage, and would appreciate some help grounding some of the ideas I have. The thing is roughly 2' wide x 3' deep x 3' tall and weighs around 500 pounds with a full load of sap and wood. I'd like to orient the evaporator with the exhaust end facing the garage, because I need plenty of room to work on 3 sides of the thing and was planning on using stand-offs to support the chimney a safe distance from the exterior wall. If we assume that I use double-wall pipe, I should be safe with 6" of clearance between the garage and the pipe, correct? My understanding is that I should be 2' above the roof-line of the garage, since the roof peak will be within 10' of the top of the stack. Because of the elbow at the bottom, that would put the rear surface of the evaporator a little less than 18" from the garage. At this distance, I'd absolutely need a heat-shield of some sort, but what would be a good product for outdoor use? I'm not sure how I want to support this whole thing on the ground without shifting/heaving/erosion, but I'm thinking a small concrete pad.
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Nov 8, 2017 22:39
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Are you in a subdivision/subject to a HOA? Because often there are very restrictive covenants about fencing. Nope, just a regular neighborhood and I'm on good terms with the neighbor. She's an older lady that lives alone and I've helped her out a bunch. PremiumSupport posted:Your best bet is coordinating with your neighbor to increase the height of the fence, though with a chain link it might not be easy, as the posts will have to be replaced or somehow extended to support the new height. Fences are generally set back from the property line by 4-6 inches, depending on local codes. A fence on your property will not be directly against your neighbors, but it will create a space that neither of you will be able to get to easily for weed control. My yard is right up against her fence, but her fence is probably really old (but its in good condition). I looked it up a bit and there's pipes you can just drop right over the old pipes and make it taller, but maybe I can ask her and then get an estimate and offer to pay. I can't imagine twenty feet of fencing with no corners is going to be a big cost.
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Nov 8, 2017 23:35
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Nope, just a regular neighborhood and I'm on good terms with the neighbor. She's an older lady that lives alone and I've helped her out a bunch. Yeah, Google says you can get a 50' roll of 6' tall chain-link fence for $162 at Lowes. I'd guess the whole project including labor would come in around $1000 if a contractor did it.
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Nov 8, 2017 23:57
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TheGreasyStrangler posted:Thanks, a replacement is going on my list for when I go shopping next. Depending on the type, you can just get it serviced instead... which I imagine is far cheaper then replacement.
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Nov 9, 2017 00:36
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The basement of my 1947 house until quite recently had remnant of a capped-and-cut-off old pipe sticking through the wall. It was a thin-walled steel pipe, I'm not sure what the hell it was and I'm kind of curious about it (Not sure what it would be. It was about 4" in diameter so too wide for an oil fill line. Maybe an exhaust but why would you run that through the wall? Something related to a boiler?). It recently made a bit of a clatter as it succumbed to gravity and fell onto the floor, rusted all to hell. To prevent the hole it left from being an entry point for cold air, water, and living things I'd rather not have in my basement I went and sealed it off with some spray foam. However, now I have this hole in my basement wall. And I noticed that the pipe was surrounded by some concrete plug (which for all I know contains asbestos), and that plug has itself started to separate from the surrounding wall. And if that plug comes out, the hole becomes much wider, to the point where I start worrying about the entire wall sagging or collapsing. What's the right way to go about patching this up? If I take that plug out the hole's probably about a good 8" in diameter, so whatever I put in there is something I want to be structural, not just spackle. Is this a "call a foundation repair guy" job? Do I need to barge the lath?  
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Nov 9, 2017 16:51
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I bought a behind-the-wall power and cord kit that was super easy to use. You just use the -- included! -- hole saw to make two holes, use the -- included! -- push-stick to get the power cable through. It doesn't have a dedicated HDMI port, though, just one hole i the top and one hole in the bottom to feed regular cables through. I want to say it was a PowerBridge, but I don't see any now that have you use a round hole saw to install it, just a drywall knife. Did the exit for that have one outlet or was it a duplex?
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Nov 10, 2017 03:39
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What kind of person do I call for help winterizing my sprinkler system? Blowing out the pipes, etc. I just moved into a new house and I've never done this before, I'd rather pay someone to do it the first time and just watch real closely.
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Nov 10, 2017 03:43
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This might be the wrong thread, but I'm looking for a place to start. If this leads to a many month project of research, experimentation, and autism manifestation then that sounds just peachy to me. Apologies if this does not belong here altogether. I'm looking for ways to reduce the amount of noise entering or bouncing around my sleeping place from the outside. I don't know much about acoustics, but I sense that there's probably a variety of solutions with different levels of efficacy. Every little bit helps. I'm a much lighter sleeper than most, but I love the idea of having a perfectly silent room, even if I can only approach that ideal in increments. My condo is on a city street with a light rail train track running down the middle and a good amount of automotive traffic. My bedroom has a sliding glass door that opens out onto a decent size (both width and depth) balcony. There is a bit of an overhang on the balcony, but anything under it could still get wet on windy rainy days. The noise that bothers me the most is from loud cars and motorcycles and the train. Especially the train. Occasionally a crackhead will post up on the train platform within spitting distance of the balcony and press the train status button (for the blind) so they can talk to the automated robot voice like its their only friend all night, but that bothers me much less. Closing the sliding glass door dampens the noise quite a bit, but not enough. And during the summer I like to keep the door open a bit for ventilation, since there is no AC in my building (guess where I live). The room itself is pretty standard construction with drywall. I suspect most of the noise is just coming through the glass door. Things that I'm considering but am unsure about: - Erecting some sort of movable structure/barrier to absorb or block some of the noise. Could be outside on the balcony. Could be inside in my room. - Putting up some kind of sound dampening panels on the ceilings / walls so that the noise doesn't ricochet around the room. - Replacing the door to the balcony with some kind of super ultra mega sound resistant sliding glass door. Expensive, but worth it for better sleep. I'd still need to keep it cracked open during the summer, but it would be a partial solution. Obvious stuff: - I do use a white noise machine sometimes. Though I just bought a Vornado fan and it is a way better use of electricity, both for white noise generation and moving air around. - I have never found earplugs that were comfortable for me, especially since I am a side sleeper. Recommendations are welcome though, especially for when I am on the road. - I'm not going to move. Any ideas or places to start or validation of the above considerations are much appreciated. sink fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 04:13
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My strategy is the cheap/easy stuff, so there are definitely pricier and more autistic solutions to plumb if that's your thing, but: - Summer: window-unit AC in a window, sliding glass door closed - Winter: heavy, thick curtains (think theater curtains) from floor to ceiling in front of the sliding glass door
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Nov 10, 2017 04:25
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i like nice words
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Phanatic posted:The basement of my 1947 house until quite recently had remnant of a capped-and-cut-off old pipe sticking through the wall. Old furnace flue, abandoned in place. You have a fireplace somewhere north of that hole in your wall? Permanent solution is to rip out eveything that's loose (use a hammer & cold chisel) & mortar it up.
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Nov 10, 2017 04:37
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sink posted:I'm a much lighter sleeper than most, but I love the idea of having a perfectly silent room, even if I can only approach that ideal in increments. Do you have health insurance? My best friend had a similar problem with sleeping very lightly and it turned out that he actually had really bad sleep apnea. If you can manage it, you might want to get checked for it.
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Nov 10, 2017 04:39
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Motronic posted:Annual. What's your take on skipping the fire extinguisher and relying on a fire blanket instead? Or should those be regarded as a supplement and not a substitution?
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Nov 10, 2017 05:02
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Used to have an oil furnace, it was replaced with gas and the smaller exhaust pipe was cemented in, then they cut and capped the old pipe when they put in a newer gas furnace.
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Nov 10, 2017 05:47
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OSU_Matthew posted:What's your take on skipping the fire extinguisher and relying on a fire blanket instead? Or should those be regarded as a supplement and not a substitution? You can only use a fire blanket to cover a fire, not gonna be helpful once the fire spreads upwards or to a wider area than can be covered. I am assuming this is for your home, in which case you can buy a non-rechargeable extinguisher and throw it away (responsibly) once it expires in 12 years.
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Nov 10, 2017 07:46
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kid sinister posted:Did the exit for that have one outlet or was it a duplex? One outlet, since all it runs power to in my case is the television. I have another low-voltage box and a plate with an HDMI plug I was going to install (since my speaker plates have an HDMI jack) beside it but laziness has prevailed and I just pulled the other end through the hole in the power plate. Here's the view from the futon (speaker stands are temporary until I figure out exactly WTF to do with them).  Behind the television. The studs are steel and as such I had to cut a hole in the wall and install a 2" x 8" in between them in order safely to mount the television ... and then after the mount arrived I realized I'd bought one with a vertical height greater than 8". So rather than cut another hole in the wall, I figured that since it would be in tension at the top and shear at the bottom I'd just cut some 1/4" plywood as a plate to prevent the shear strain at the bottom from ripping through the drywall. It was completely unnecessary -- the Toggler bolts at the top would have been more than enough for the television mount, and all the screws at the bottom of the mount do is pull it toward the wall.  Zooming in on the power plug output behind the television.  The stuff behind the console, with the power router on the bottom. 
tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Nov 10, 2017 |
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Nov 10, 2017 13:28
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sink posted:This might be the wrong thread, but I'm looking for a place to start. If this leads to a many month project of research, experimentation, and autism manifestation then that sounds just peachy to me. Apologies if this does not belong here altogether. I have spent a ton of time and effort on this same topic. I have annoyingly good hearing and even though I'm 35 I still hear very high frequencies like those teenager repellent things. Any other kind of sound that doesn't belong drives me crazy - dogs, leaf blowers that constantly rev up and down for hours (SERIOUSLY JUST LEAVE THE GODDAMN BLOWER ON HIGH FOR 10 SECONDS AT ONCE WHAT ARE YOU EVEN DOING). In general the things that block the noise will be far more effective than the things that try to absorb it once it's in your house. My main problem in the bedroom is a low-mid quality french door to my balcony which overlooks a suburban road, when a loud truck or a motorcycle goes by. Here's a list of things I've done. 1. Buy all heavy drapes and cover all doors/windows. I didn't buy actual soundproofing drapes because those are expensive ($500 per window), but I bought heavy velvet blackout drapes that look decent and weren't too expensive. I bought these - make sure you get the "signature" blackout because their regular blackout curtains aren't the same. https://www.halfpricedrapes.com/signature-blackout-velvet-curtains.html. They also sell on Amazon and Overstock. These did a pretty decent job with mid and higher frequencies. I would say they didn't do that much for the truck noise but no curtain is going to curtail low frequency noise that well. 2. Fix up gaps in your house. Recaulk windows, replace weather stripping, fix window seals. In my house some rear end in a top hat installed the bathroom vents in a way that a screw was permanently propping open the plastic flapper, so I had to take out 6 of those screws and replace them with a new screw without removing the vent or having any real access to it. That was fun but it made a big difference - just that dumb little flapper. Replacing weather stripping also made a big difference, although it seems to fade after awhile as the weather stripping loses it's firmness I guess. I bought "extended reach" weatherstripping for a lot of places. 3. My double doors are 8 feet tall and they were starting to warp a bit so the top of the door was about 1cm from where it should be. I bought a slide bolt and installed it so that both doors are held firmly in place and make better contact with the weather stripping. Door companies can also install a second knob/lock if you get a new door, so you might want to ask about that if you go that route - it will help keep the door from warping and winding up with a bigger gap near the top if it's a tall door. 4. My front door has a second security door with a steel grate on it. I cut plexiglass to size and screwed it to the inside of the door and this made a big difference in blocking the sound of one of the idiot dogs across the street that would bark. It looks kind of ghetto, but it showed that adding a second layer of door, even though it's not even close to sealed well, is pretty effective at blocking both high and low frequencies. Because of this I think adding a storm door, or a security door that has a glass insert instead of a steel mesh insert, would be helpful in reducing overall noise and would be cheaper than replacing a whole door. 5. I had the double doors inspected by a door company. They said they were in relatively good shape and couldn't really do anything. They said the best thing to do would be to tear out the frame and build the wall down to a single door size, and buy a new high quality noise blocking single door. This would be an expensive mess and I stopped looking too much into it after that - I haven't decided if I want to do that, or try a double security door with glass inserts, or maybe just install something weird on the outside of the door frame to kind of block out sound (e.g. glue/screw an L shaped garage door weather seal to the outside frame of the door, so that when the doors are closed they push up against it and it creates a seal along the bottom of the door on the outside). Probably I would go with the security door next, I think it would cost about $2000 and would make a pretty big difference. I don't really want to rip out the whole existing door frame. 6. You can buy soundproofing window kits for inside, that basically create a layer of plexiglass over a window. I've never done this because I don't think the windows are a problem, but based on my experience with #4 I think it would be pretty effective. 7. I used to just have a constant sound as a white noise machine (like a fan would be, but without the imperfections in the sound). I found it helpful to use the Android app White Noise and create a custom mix - it includes the same gray noise, but I mixed in thunder and rain so that smaller cars and trucks just kind of blend in as thunder. Redneck specials are still pretty noticeable though. I also have no problem falling asleep with a podcast/talk radio type thing on so I usually have one of those going, although I've never tried making a large queue that will play all night long. so that might help too. If you intend to leave the door open for ventilation, none of this stuff is really going to matter. Even a 1mm opening is going to let all the sound in. If that's a requirement, you probably just want to buy a set of $1000 soundproofing curtains for the door, but if you leave the door open I think you will be disappointed in the results. For earplugs you can go to an audiologist and get custom-fit earplugs, and you can do it only via a kit you order and send it. I've never done it but they are supposed to be a lot more comfortable.
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Nov 10, 2017 16:53
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tetrapyloctomy posted:One outlet, since all it runs power to in my case is the television. OK good. Those in-wall extensions for TVs were added to the code book recently and it specifies that they must basically be only extension cords: one input, one output. It goes beyond that too, in that the entrance box must have a male plug on it. You basically need to plug in a regular extension cord down below to power them.
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Nov 10, 2017 18:58
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kid sinister posted:OK good. Those in-wall extensions for TVs were added to the code book recently and it specifies that they must basically be only extension cords: one input, one output. It goes beyond that too, in that the entrance box must have a male plug on it. You basically need to plug in a regular extension cord down below to power them. Good, I don't want to gently caress with it again. =)
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Nov 10, 2017 21:42
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I'm looking for some online or offline guides to insulating. I have three specific concerns: 1. When it comes to insulating with spray foam, do I need to use a specific kind for electrical? I saw a youtube video that appeared to use straight "good stuff" on a ceiling light to cover the holes and I was concerned about it. 2. What is the best way to address outlets? It seems like sealing wire holes in the attic is reasonable, but should I do anything to/around the outlets themselves? 3. How do you insulate around a brick chimney? Not only do I have one, it's in the middle of the house. My understanding is that you're not supposed to "connect" anything between it and the surrounding frame to be up to proper code and indeed, there is no insulation around the floors either into the basement or the attic. And I'm sure that gap is the cause of a huge amount of leakage in both summer and winter. How should that be tackled?
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Nov 11, 2017 16:39
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Cheesus posted:I'm looking for some online or offline guides to insulating. Squirt this stuff into any of the holes. Required in new construction in any penetration that goes between floors. Meant to slow down the progression of fire between levels and used by electricians everywhere. 2) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-GREAT-STUFF-Fireblock-12-oz-Spray-Foam-Insulation/3052753 The foam can be used interchangeably with the caulk, but the caulk covers a much larger space and can be trimmed easily after it cures. i.e. if you wanted to seal around a box. 3) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Johns-Manville-49-7-sq-ft-Unfaced-Mineral-Wool-Batt-Insulation-with-Sound-Barrier-15-25-in-W-x-47-in-L/50133328 How big are the gaps? If you have huge gaps--use the rock wool. If they are slivers, you can use the fire caulk. Spray foam works too, just don't use too much--the expanding foam can sometimes do more damage than you'd think.
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Nov 11, 2017 20:52
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