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Over an hour on the phone with frontier support telling me it's my router because it's not Frontier branded. Finally convince him to escalate and I wind up with a "network trouble ticket." By some miracle the network department called me back 30 minutes later, under 5 minutes on the phone with them and they had it resolved. "Can you break your dhcp lease?" "Sure, unplugged the cable." "Great gimme a minute. (a minute goes by) Ok try again." 100/100 solid. Actually 100/120mbps. He cleared the arp cache for my device on the head end.  Thank you for coming to my Ted talk.
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Sep 30, 2020 21:42
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H110Hawk posted:Over an hour on the phone with frontier support telling me it's my router because it's not Frontier branded. Finally convince him to escalate and I wind up with a "network trouble ticket." By some miracle the network department called me back 30 minutes later, under 5 minutes on the phone with them and they had it resolved. "Can you break your dhcp lease?" "Sure, unplugged the cable." "Great gimme a minute. (a minute goes by) Ok try again." 100/100 solid. Actually 100/120mbps. ..... Wow you won some sort of Frontier lottery there. When I was fighting with them about my parents service I could never get them to escalate no matter what I did. And I made multiple attempts over a several week period.
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Sep 30, 2020 21:58
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Buff Hardback posted:The trade off is that you lose some speed on the 2.4ghz band in exchange for better performance on 5ghz Hmm the nano is $160 on amazon. The Pro is $137.
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Sep 30, 2020 23:23
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Having some issues with my old printer SURPRISE so I decided to go into the router while loving with it and assigned DHCP res' for all my regular devices. Some of them stuck, some didn't. I gave my desktop the first address, 192.168.0.101, but its getting 111 for some reason. There are a few examples like that and on top of the printer issues its driving me loving berserk. Actually it kinda began with me sitting down for supper and going to throw on an ep of Frasier on Plex and not being able to hit the NAS. Still cant. I'm gonna lose it Went back to have one more poke at it and I had disconnected the ethernet from the printer end and put that end back into the switch in a loop, the NAS is also connected to that switch and I had for some reason disconnected the switch from the router so nothing was going anywhere weeeeeeeeeeee gimme more whiskey codo27 fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Oct 1, 2020 |
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Oct 1, 2020 00:13
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Welp, I think/hope I can finally retire my nighthawk R7000. After my UDM Nightmare I took another chance on Ubiquiti and so far they've passed with flying colors. I'm using my modem/router (SmartRG SR808ac) as the router, and I've got an AP-AC-LR and three USW-Flex-Minis going. I cut and crimped my first ethernet cords, fished a few cables prior to crimping, and I'm currently basking in the joy of a fully wired office, fully wired basement media theatre, fully wired living room entertainment, and a well-covered house/yard/shop. And the wifi hasn't died yet! I've had the odd drop, but nothing too crazy. Next up will be a US-8-60W coming on the weekend (so that I can run the Minis via PoE), fishing some of the temporary cable runs in a more permanent way (not looking forward to that), setting up a bunch of static IPs, and then setting up the controller to run on a Pi that also runs my homeseer controller. Whee! All that being said, since there's a lot of Unifi braintrust in here - any idea why I'd be getting a lot of High WiFi Retries for an iPhone and an Android phone? The one issue i do sometimes get is that my Galaxy S10 will report "Couldn't Authenticate Connection" when trying to connect to the AP.
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Oct 1, 2020 05:27
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quote:I've had the odd drop, but nothing too crazy. Not acceptable for this level of equipment imo.
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Oct 1, 2020 15:21
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Not sure if anyone else has experience with Verizon FIOS in North Jersey, but it looks like the house I am moving into was not a verizon customer before but nearly every room as a coaxial jack. I have installation scheduled in a few weeks and I'm wondering if the tech will be able to 1) install w/e modem/router box downstairs and 2) then run cat5 up to one of the upstairs bedrooms that already has coax. Is that something they'll be able to do and not charge me a giant fee?
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Oct 1, 2020 15:32
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How much of a PITA is replacing existing cable? Our place currently has what I understand to be regular CAT5, I’m debating moving to 5e or 6 or whatever to future proof things a bit.
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Oct 1, 2020 15:36
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Warbird posted:How much of a PITA is replacing existing cable? Our place currently has what I understand to be regular CAT5, I’m debating moving to 5e or 6 or whatever to future proof things a bit. Never do this. Unless it doesn't work leave it alone.
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Oct 1, 2020 15:45
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Noted. I was planning on having someone make a couple of ports and run cable through a small unused space b/t the wiring node and the place what the internet comes in the house at and ol figured I may as well do the drat thing whole hog at once.
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Oct 1, 2020 15:49
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Warbird posted:How much of a PITA is replacing existing cable? Our place currently has what I understand to be regular CAT5, I’m debating moving to 5e or 6 or whatever to future proof things a bit. Having just fished a couple cables in a 100 year old house (and having done my own wiring for my workshop) - the most important question is whether the cabling was done as a retrofit (via fishing) or as a new build/install when the studs were bare. When you're building new, you are often required by code to secure the wiring to studs with staples or other fixtures. When you're doing it as a retrofit, you aren't and often can't, so the wiring is essentially freely placed inside the walls. What this means is that with retrofit wiring, you can splice the cables together very securely and essentially pull in the new cabling using the old cable. It's a completely blind operation and it carries a bit of risk, but it's entirely possible - if you roughly understand the route the wiring takes you may need to open up a few holes where the wiring makes 90 degree turns as you risk damaging the cable, and it's certainly not as easy for multi-storey runs. If the wiring is original though (for a house built in the 90's), it's highly unlikely that you can do this because deep inside the walls the wiring is held in place. It would be easier to just disconnect the ends and fish new cables where you need them. Warbird posted:Noted. I was planning on having someone make a couple of ports and run cable through a small unused space b/t the wiring node and the place what the internet comes in the house at and ol figured I may as well do the drat thing whole hog at once. How much would you be replacing/adding? In situations like this the full scope can sometimes help you decide... a 800sf bungalow with a crawlspace and no basement is easier to tackle than a 2500sf two-storey house with a fully finished basement Guitarchitect fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Oct 1, 2020 |
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Oct 1, 2020 15:54
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SnatchRabbit posted:Not sure if anyone else has experience with Verizon FIOS in North Jersey, but it looks like the house I am moving into was not a verizon customer before but nearly every room as a coaxial jack. I have installation scheduled in a few weeks and I'm wondering if the tech will be able to 1) install w/e modem/router box downstairs and 2) then run cat5 up to one of the upstairs bedrooms that already has coax. Is that something they'll be able to do and not charge me a giant fee? I knee jerk replied to the post after yours because I was on mobile and it's a pet peeve of mine that people think they need to R&R working cable for ~the future~.  It is unlikely they will do this. You should talk to the installer though - they are often independent contractors. Have cash ready. However, if you aren't getting TV service just buy and install MoCA adapters to get yourself ethernet throughout your house. If you have them in hand / setup you might be able to convince the guy to crawl around in your attic or whatever to help you out. Again, have cash ready.
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Oct 1, 2020 17:51
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Guitarchitect posted:How much would you be replacing/adding? In situations like this the full scope can sometimes help you decide... a 800sf bungalow with a crawlspace and no basement is easier to tackle than a 2500sf two-storey house with a fully finished basement It’s a 2005ish townhome on a slab so it sounds like I’m keeping what I have now. I’ll make due I suppose.
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Oct 1, 2020 18:02
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Warbird posted:It’s a 2005ish townhome on a slab so it sounds like I’m keeping what I have now. I’ll make due I suppose. yeah, you would basically need to re-cable alongside it, not replace what's there - or just put in a new "backbone" line that you can branch off of in the future with switches, if you're really going to need something substantially better than wired 100mbit around the house. as much as i would love a server rack in the basement and direct lines to everything, it's far more practical for me to have a switch in the basement and another switch in my office so that I can run cabling into the attic and drop it where I need it.
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Oct 1, 2020 20:16
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I would be pretty surprised if a 2005 build was Cat5 rather than Cat5e
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Oct 1, 2020 20:24
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I would be pretty surprised if cat5 cable from the first roll off the line of cat 5 cable ever made didn't work at 1gbps.
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Oct 1, 2020 21:16
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Binary Badger posted:Any thread consensus on the NetGear Orbi, either the RBK50 or its WiFi 6 equivalent, the RBK 752? My parents have the RBK50 and it works fine for their needs. If you're looking for an all-in-one wifi mesh + router system then it's good. One of the drawbacks is that if you find that you need an additional satellite they're kind of expensive. If you know you'll only need the base station + the single satellite then it's fine, but if you need more it might be more cost effective to go with something else, especially if you're going to be running cables.
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Oct 1, 2020 23:31
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Thanks for the info. During my research for info on both the Velop and Orbi, they both seem to have some issues, but someone has actually written alternative firmware for the RBK50 that provides faster speeds and higher stability than NetGear's own stock firmware. No such alternative appears to exist on the Velop for the moment. I would surely love HomeKit compatibility, but at the moment I don't have enough doodads that it'd be worth the bother for now. On a pure technical level, I'm leaning more and more towards the Orbi, people seem to bitch less about it and having the Voxel firmware to fall back on seems like a good bet..
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Oct 2, 2020 02:04
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Thanks Ants posted:I would be pretty surprised if a 2005 build was Cat5 rather than Cat5e I took a look at the plate and it reads as 5e, but there’s not telling if they actually used it or not. I need to test that sometime.
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Oct 2, 2020 04:59
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Warbird posted:I took a look at the plate and it reads as 5e, but there’s not telling if they actually used it or not. I need to test that sometime. Take the plate off the wall and see if you can read the cable jacket.
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Oct 2, 2020 10:15
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I just moved into a house where the previous owner went a little hog wild with wired ports. I have 4 ports on the outside of the house 2 under the the porch and 2 inside a 100% screened in balcony. After I verify that these things still work after being somewhat exposed to the elements, I want to hang an outdoor wifi ap to cover the back yard off of one of them (probably the upstairs one). I have two Ubiquity ap's already so i'm happy to stay with that brand. Just wondering if this is what I need to use: Ubiquiti NanoStation loco M5 - Wireless Access Point - AirMax (LOCOM5US) https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-loco-M5-Wireless/dp/B00HXT8FPS/ref=pd_ybh_a_27?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YG7F61ASRVVW444FV11M
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Oct 2, 2020 16:43
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The wife has made the major tactical bunder of signing off on the purchasing of a new router(s) as our current setup has been getting less reliable or at least more noticeably unreliable since we've both started working from home. Current setup is a couple of TP-Link Archer C7s, one acting as an upstairs bridge wired to the main. We've got a couple of those Nest cameras going at any given time, so I'm sure that's not helping things any. Wirecutter is recommending the Archer AX20 as a good general pick and it seems reasonable given that the C7s we've had have been pretty decent, WebUI aside. I am eyeing the Asus RT-AX88U that's also recommended, but that may be a but much considering that what we have is more or less meeting my needs. Thoughts? I'm not opposed to living that Ubiquiti life but I may be asking for trouble there from a cost and complexity standpoint.
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Oct 2, 2020 18:29
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In the middle of getting my new UniFi network set up and have hit a weird issue that I'm sure is just one setting away from being resolved... but I can't suss it out. I can't seem to get my 16 port switch to give me gigabit speeds. I pay for 500d/50u. If I plug my laptop directly into the UDM-Pro I can get 500+/~35u (I never cracked 40 up before, probably SnR issue so consistent). This is the desired speeds for what I have available to me from my ISP. But if I plug directly into USW-16-POE that's connected over the SFP I get ~80-100d/~35u. It's weird. All speeds are using the same server on Speedtest.net. Any suggestions on where to start troubleshooting this? e: Just checked and both Windows and the UniFi dashboard show 1 Gpbs as negotiation on the port. TraderStav fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Oct 2, 2020 |
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Oct 2, 2020 20:47
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TraderStav posted:In the middle of getting my new UniFi network set up and have hit a weird issue that I'm sure is just one setting away from being resolved... but I can't suss it out. Can you show the interface speeds from Windows -> USW, USW -> UDM, and UDM ->  (your modem/ont/whatever) ? What are the physical interfaces? You mention an SFP - can you have the switch print the PHY information on it? (often a command like "show interface" ) Can it print the make/model? Not what you read off the sticker here, what the machine is reporting.
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Oct 2, 2020 21:30
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H110Hawk posted:Can you show the interface speeds from Windows -> USW, USW -> UDM, and UDM -> Thanks, when you say interface speeds are you referring to what the various devices are showing when connected as either 1G or 100/10? Or actually do speed tests between those devices. If the latter, I'm not sure the best approach to do so. I'm doing more digging and finding out that my issue MAY be that the switch only has a 1GB SFP port, which is why I had to force the UDM-Pro to 1GB and it wouldn't see instead of leaving it on autonegotiation. Is it possible that it's splitting the 1GB across all the ports? So maybe better to not use SFP for the link between the two and go copper? Everything lights up Green for 1GB on the Switch and between the UDM-Pro and the Switch as well as the network adapter on my windows machine. When I plug into the UDM I get the appropriate speeds, so it's something between the UDM-Pro and the USW-16-POE
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Oct 2, 2020 21:53
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Are the UDM and the Switch up to date? I know there's been a lot of work recently on the SFP/SFP+ interaction in firmware lately and that might be what's causing your issue. What physical connection (i.e. cable type) are you using to go from the UDM to the switch?
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Oct 2, 2020 22:32
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Buff Hardback posted:Are the UDM and the Switch up to date? I believe that they're up to date, I just received them this week and hit the upgrade buttons for each of the devices. It's this cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNRLWCQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1) going from the button port of the UDM into the top port of the switch. I had to configure the UDM to not autonegotiate and put it at 1G to see the switch. Thinking it was the issue, I also just removed that cable and tried a cat6 that I had lying around (and had tested with my other network and it gave speeds in the 500/50 neighborhood) and received the same results. Is the issue that the switch can only do 1gigabit in the backplane? So it's sharing the gigabit connection across the 16 ports? I have virtually no traffic at the moment so unless it's forcing a reduction of the gigabit connection I'm not sure why it's not hitting it. So wondering if my expectations are not aligning properly with what I purchased. Showing gigabit negotiation on the dashboard for both ports on the UDM and the switch, and also on my Windows laptop.
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Oct 2, 2020 23:31
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TraderStav posted:I believe that they're up to date, I just received them this week and hit the upgrade buttons for each of the devices. So my understanding is you can use a DAC (that one cable, but I'd lean UDC DAC [the Unifi one] over a third party one), but Unifi recommends instead using fiber modules. UF-MM-1G plus the appropriate MM fiber would probably have better support and behave appropriately. (I reached out to Unifi because of planning for this similar thing, mismatched SFP/SFP+ for when I build my network) And no, the backplane isn't the issue. Its total non-blocking throughput is 18Gbps.
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Oct 2, 2020 23:48
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Buff Hardback posted:So my understanding is you can use a DAC (that one cable, but I'd lean UDC DAC [the Unifi one] over a third party one), but Unifi recommends instead using fiber modules. UF-MM-1G plus the appropriate MM fiber would probably have better support and behave appropriately. (I reached out to Unifi because of planning for this similar thing, mismatched SFP/SFP+ for when I build my network) Ok, makes sense about the third party, shouldn’t I be able to use a cat 6 and not have a problem though? I still am.
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Oct 3, 2020 00:04
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TraderStav posted:Ok, makes sense about the third party, shouldn’t I be able to use a cat 6 and not have a problem though? I still am.
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Oct 3, 2020 00:07
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Buff Hardback posted:I'd say try another cable if you can too. I haven't messed around with this generation of Unifi stuff so I'm kind of operating blind. Thanks, to be clear I need a cat 6, a 5e won’t do for this job? E: forget the q, I had a brand new 6 right here. Same result connecting that to the udm EE: welp. Pulling down 300ish right now. Much closer! Think that may have done it. TraderStav fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Oct 3, 2020 |
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Oct 3, 2020 00:43
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Thanks for the help, just tried it in my office at the jack and got 530/31, so I think I resolved the issue. Also tried a different server, that may have been a factor too. Much obliged for the help! e: mother fucker, replaced the SFP on a lark and disconnected the cat 6. 530/31 again. it was the speedtest server. I'm really angry right now lmao
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Oct 3, 2020 00:54
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TraderStav posted:Thanks for the help, just tried it in my office at the jack and got 530/31, so I think I resolved the issue. Also tried a different server, that may have been a factor too.  Glad to know you like that setup, because that's what I'm planning for when I move (but probably will use Unifi DAC or fiber instead of copper)
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Oct 3, 2020 00:55
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Buff Hardback posted:
I just sniped an edit, I replaced it with using the SFP again and top speeds again.
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Oct 3, 2020 00:56
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TraderStav posted:e: it was the speedtest server. Which were you using?
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Oct 3, 2020 01:12
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astral posted:Which were you using? I'm in SE Michigan. I used a few (UMich, Detroit Rocket Fiber, Comcast), which was weird because they consistently gave me 100mbit when I was plugged into the switch and higher when the UDM. Then moved to Climax, MI (love the name) and got what I needed.
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Oct 3, 2020 01:21
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TraderStav posted:I'm in SE Michigan. I used a few (UMich, Detroit Rocket Fiber, Comcast), which was weird because they consistently gave me 100mbit when I was plugged into the switch and higher when the UDM. Then moved to Climax, MI (love the name) and got what I needed. speed.cloudflare.com is my new favorite
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Oct 3, 2020 01:34
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TraderStav posted:I'm in SE Michigan. I used a few (UMich, Detroit Rocket Fiber, Comcast), which was weird because they consistently gave me 100mbit when I was plugged into the switch and higher when the UDM. Then moved to Climax, MI (love the name) and got what I needed. Er, when I said 'which' I meant which speed test website were you using. I usually recommend google fiber's speedtest for people with fast connections (last I knew it was still different from the regular google speedtest). Sounds like you were using Unifi's built-in one.
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Oct 3, 2020 01:36
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Oh ok, that makes more sense. speedtest.net. I'll check out both of these recommendations. Thanks!
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Oct 3, 2020 01:41
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I see you got this fixed, but you put in a 10G SFP+ into a 1G SFP slot? That's your problem.
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Oct 3, 2020 01:46
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