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Get it media blasted and then repainted, it'll be fine for another 20 years.
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Jun 13, 2021 12:12
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Wibla posted:Get it media blasted and then repainted, it'll be fine for another 20 years. its worse then those pictures led you to believe, either way shouldn't be too much for it to be remade. in boat related news Aquatic Insanity people, Victory for wargames. The water pump for the A/C works I guess its not an auto priming pump and had to wait 12 hours for the bubles to work them selves out, because i do have water flow out of the boat. Bad news, air is still warm, so the compressor is dead or there is no r22 in the system.
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Jun 13, 2021 19:11
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wargames posted:Also why is this thread not call Aquatic insanity? Because aquatic means anything related to water and nautical specifically means anything related to the navigation of water (such as boats).  Boat news! Masts and standing rigging installed and looking fantastic. My neighbor tells me we have the most photographed boat in the marina but there's a gorgeous CT56 right across from me so I doubt that But she certainly is fancy lookin 
Karma Comedian fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jun 13, 2021 |
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Jun 13, 2021 19:33
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Karma Comedian posted:Because aquatic means anything related to water and nautical specifically means anything related to the navigation of water (such as boats). More because I didn't think of aquatic before nautical. 
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Jun 13, 2021 20:00
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Elmnt80 posted:More because I didn't think of aquatic before nautical. Pfft as if I cared about YOUR reasoning 
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Jun 13, 2021 20:04
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I've been wanting a tachometer for the ol' iron spinnaker for a while, but haven't really gotten around to it. I could just buy a cheap and cheerful Chinese adjustable tach and hook it up to the alternator like a reasonable person, but where's the fun in that? Today though I found an old original Volvo Penta branded VDO tach at a flea market for next to nothing, and of course I had to buy it. It's not original to my engine, it seems to have been made for the TAMD40A and variants, but still it's got the proper vintage look. It seems though that this thing was made to be used with a tach sender attached to some kind of fuel pump crank or something, not the alternator, because it's marked "inductive" and "165000 imp/min". Since it's a 5000 rpm tach I interpret that as 165000/5000 = 33 pulses per engine revolution, which is far higher than what my alternator is cranking out (6 pulses/revolution and it runs about 2,2x the engine rpm IIRC). I think this has potential for a small microelectronics project though - I think it should be possible to build a circuit that upconverts the alternator frequency to a level the tachometer likes. I'm pretty clueless at this but I think a pair of voltage-to-frequency/frequency-to-voltage converters might do it? Is there a microelectronics thread somewhere on the forums...?
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Jun 14, 2021 00:27
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I've decided it's time to TheFluff posted:I've been wanting a tachometer for the ol' iron spinnaker for a while, but haven't really gotten around to it. I could just buy a cheap and cheerful Chinese adjustable tach and hook it up to the alternator like a reasonable person, but where's the fun in that? Today though I found an old original Volvo Penta branded VDO tach at a flea market for next to nothing, and of course I had to buy it. It's not original to my engine, it seems to have been made for the TAMD40A and variants, but still it's got the proper vintage look. It seems though that this thing was made to be used with a tach sender attached to some kind of fuel pump crank or something, not the alternator, because it's marked "inductive" and "165000 imp/min". Since it's a 5000 rpm tach I interpret that as 165000/5000 = 33 pulses per engine revolution, which is far higher than what my alternator is cranking out (6 pulses/revolution and it runs about 2,2x the engine rpm IIRC). You might have luck in the electronics thread in HCC, here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734977 . My first instinct is that a pulse frequency converter circuit is *probably possible*, but might get weird. You'd probably have better luck reading your alternator pulses via Arduino, doing some math, and then outputting an appropriate rate of pulses to the VDO tach.
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Jun 15, 2021 02:21
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I have a wide variety of inflatable and foam vests. I wear a Zhik foam one for racing, fits snug and has a giant pocket. I don't wear an auto inflate for racing because the foam one keeps me warmer, cushions me when hiking, and won't trigger on a very choppy beat. I have a West Marine 'offshore' auto vest that I wear when I'm working, it's fine. After 12 hours it starts to get a little heavy on the neck though. I also often just wear the WM Runabout foam vests we have on the boats in solidarity with our guests that we require to wear them. I also have a Spinlock Deckvest which is awesome and comfortable. I don't wear it for work much because I don't want it to fall apart but I will probably start doing it more, it's really much more comfortable. They make a 'lite' version that is cheaper with less of the offshore features. Not sure there is anything I would specifically steer you away from, just get the vest that fits your use case. There is a ton of margin in the WM vests so the no-brand ones on Amazon are probably the same stuff but cheaper. Mustang is a reputable brand. Whatever you get I would manually inflate it and make sure it holds pressure right away. Better to know now. And test it every couple years or so. The dissolvable inflators are degraded over time/moisture exposure and you can have it light off unintentionally. The hydrostatic ones have a shelf life too. If I could only keep one it'd be the Zhik.
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Jun 15, 2021 05:13
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My crew has been halvsies spinlock, half mustang I've had the Spinlock 5D for the longest time, it's probably ready to be retired Defender is the classic online retailer, although there's a bunch of smaller boutique shops online if you're not in a rush and want to support small business. My local sail loft, pineapple sails, sells spinlock
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Jun 15, 2021 06:34
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Safety Dance posted:You might have luck in the electronics thread in HCC, here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2734977 . My first instinct is that a pulse frequency converter circuit is *probably possible*, but might get weird. You'd probably have better luck reading your alternator pulses via Arduino, doing some math, and then outputting an appropriate rate of pulses to the VDO tach. Yeah, I posted there and came to the same conclusion: you can do this with dedicated IC's but there's not much of a reason to do so - an Arduino is easier.
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Jun 15, 2021 09:58
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+1 for the zhik pfd. The newer model is now coast guard rated. I should get an auto inflator for coastal stuff though
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Jun 15, 2021 21:18
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Alright aquanauts found a metal worker and in less then 24 hours knocked out my bump stop, i am now thinking of getting it powered coated for that extra layer of protection.
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Jun 15, 2021 22:22
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Hadlock posted:My crew has been halvsies spinlock, half mustang I'll second the defender recommendation. My only complaint with them is when I need a cheap order.
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Jun 16, 2021 01:53
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Oh no of all the boat jobs... My holding tank somehow has a clog. I went to take the cap off to see if I could poke some paper put of the way or something but.. it is seized. I think... I have to go out far enough, empty it out (gravity better still work), flush it a bunch, then I think it is oriented sideways and some substantial figuring has to be done. Worst boat job If you have any thoughts: Poo box https://imgur.com/gallery/2hIUHUn Even though it is half full at most the vent (small pipe) is below the poo line and now is almost certainly just clogged with matter. The answer may be to holesaw a vent in the top and run a short venting hose with a charcoal filter to the bilge out (at top) Nichol fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Jun 18, 2021 |
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Jun 18, 2021 04:39
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Nichol posted:Oh no of all the boat jobs...
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Jun 18, 2021 04:46
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Kenshin posted:That is what P100 masks are for, at the very least you won't have to smell it! Finally I will have a use for the shower at the marina!
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Jun 18, 2021 04:56
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I’ve been able to spray a garden hose into the vent to dislodge stuff in them before, maybe try that. Plus the more you can dilute the tank contents the better. I can’t tell from the picture what the location of the hose fittings are on the side, is there just one in/out and the vent? Or separate in and out?
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Jun 18, 2021 16:26
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Big Taint posted:
On the back (nice) there are in, out, vent ports in a 6" area about halfway up.
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Jun 18, 2021 19:00
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They’re all in the middle? Sounds like they mounted the tank 90 degrees from intended. For side mount in and vent should be at the top and out on the bottom. It looks like you could rotate and mount with the ports at the top, add a fitting with a pipe extending to about 1” from the bottom for discharge. You would lose gravity discharge but gain the ability to actually get most of the poo poo out.
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Jun 19, 2021 00:08
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Big Taint posted:They’re all in the middle? Sounds like they mounted the tank 90 degrees from intended. For side mount in and vent should be at the top and out on the bottom. It looks like you could rotate and mount with the ports at the top, add a fitting with a pipe extending to about 1” from the bottom for discharge. You would lose gravity discharge but gain the ability to actually get most of the poo poo out. This is exactly what I am thinking. I'm wondering if maybe the outlet reaches to the opposite side and is supposed to siphon but this seems like weird design. Actually you know what this is wrong. Looking at the photos I took from behind he outlet IS toward the bottom, but the gas out is definitely below the visible water line which seems insane. The current result is that with the gas out clogged when the head is pumped brown water shoots out the key holes in the deck pump out plate. The first time it happened someone was sitting inches away and got a little damp. At least it was their partner on the pump... Nichol fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Jun 19, 2021 |
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Jun 19, 2021 04:15
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Ya the vent needs to be at the top or gross things will happen.
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Jun 19, 2021 17:19
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Big Taint posted:gross things will happen. Totally unrelated, but this showed up in my feed the other day, and this phrase reminded me of it. Nobody will argue that I spend an unhealthy amount of time on the internet, but I'll admit I've never once seen this before, and at this point I'm starting to run out of novel sailboat things to learn about, so this was a surprise Anyways, stainless steel, a common material used for keel Anyways, these are the original keel bolts inside of a Catalina 38 in socal, probably Los Angeles area. I think the owner said it's hull #3 or 4 so 1978, or 43 years old. Bilge is dry, but the keel bolts appear to be bleeding. Suspected cause is that the keel bedding has deteriorated, causing the keel bolts to be exposed to salt water. End result is that most of the ferrous material in the bolt (316/316L is only ~64% iron) has rusted, and water is being forced through the veins of rust in the bolts, into the bilge      Needless to say, it was recommended that they very gently motor over to the boat yard and get the keel bolts replaced Very pleased that the keel bolts on my boat are roughly 1" diameter, rather than, what looks like 5/8" Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:19 on Jun 19, 2021 |
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Jun 19, 2021 20:17
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 You should definitely post that in the mechanical failures thread. …And you should also call a priest.
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Jun 19, 2021 20:23
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That's a real interesting failure.
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Jun 19, 2021 20:44
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Ya crevice corrosion has surprised many sailors who trusted the word ‘stainless’ a bit too much. My recent bout was with the autopilot on our smaller boat, which has been almost completely unused during the pandemic and I was prepping for her return to service: I was getting weird behavior depending on which way I asked the pilot to turn the helm; stuck my head in the lazarette and was looking at the cables and such and moving the wheel back and forth and the threaded rod connecting the rudder reference to the quadrant cracked in half before my eyes. It had corroded to the point where it was bending and hinging and finally gave up when I was messing with it. I think it was due to being relatively thin at the threads and in a wet locker so salt had crusted on it, and maybe not a great SS alloy for such conditions, there was a lot of light corrosion on the surface. Of course the local hardware store had no stainless or metric (M6) rod so McMaster to the rescue. Got 316 so it should be up to the task now. I got a spare if it’s not.
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Jun 19, 2021 22:51
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316 is the standard "marine grade" stainless, but it's not rated to be resistant to chloride-ion containing liquids above 78°F. So no warm saltwater. I don't remember what the "actually for use in ocean-going warm-water vessels" number is. 316N? 318? Something like that. edit: looked it up, it's Duplex Stainless, and you can get it from wastewater treatment suppliers. If you can find 316L or 316N, that's probably good enough.
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Jun 20, 2021 01:38
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Yacht World on YouTube has this British(?) guy who does a bunch of video reviews of new boats coming out. Anyways he was reviewing this one boat made in South Africa - a Southern Seas (?) 62 or something like that. Pocket super yacht. Turns out this boat manufacturer is owned by the same corporate conglomerate that owns a bio tech company that makes custom laser sintered (  3d printed ) titanium replacement hip and knee joints etc. Well I guess they have a deal going but all the stainless hardware on the 62' boat was medical grade 3d printed titanium, which doesn't react with seawater, at least not on a human timescale. Everything from the pushpit to the stanchions to the cleats and chocks were medical grade titanium.Also I guess titanium doesn't react that strongly with carbon so most of the boom and mast hardware was that as well (aluminum and carbon are like slow motion baking soda and vinegar, but electrolysis)
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Jun 20, 2021 01:54
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I guess its time for the thread's "I-thought-we'd- been-through-this-enough" time reminder that Catalina Yachts are built well *from a fiberglass perspective* Don't trust West Marine Stainless Red right return If you're under power you don't have right of way etc
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Jun 20, 2021 05:45
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There's a reason they use silicon bronze below the waterline. Stainless can't passivate if there's no oxygen and will just dissolve away.
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Jun 20, 2021 16:16
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Nichol posted:Oh no of all the boat jobs... Here's some moral support: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9nW5g8tjazg
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Jun 22, 2021 21:38
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Here's some moral support: It wasn't when the retching started that I turned it off, it was when it didn't stop. I'm sorry I started this discussion.
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Jun 22, 2021 22:56
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Nichol posted:It wasn't when the retching started that I turned it off, it was when it didn't stop. I am very glad my head is broken in a way that waste only goes over board and not into a tank.
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Jun 23, 2021 00:14
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Now I kinda want to pick up some shoulder length gloves for animal husbandry just to have on hand* if I need them. *Glove pun
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Jun 23, 2021 00:17
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looking at invertor/chargers again and the mpp lv6048 non x came up has a better min voltage for a boat and and two mppt built in so i can run more likely shaded wing PV on the secondary mppt i think and keep the two big 445w on its own mppt. the seller https://watts247.com/product/hybrid-lv6048-split-phase-120v-240v/ the info page http://www.mppsolar.com/v3/catalogs/split%20phase%20LV6048.pdf and down the line I think i may go with this as a generator http://www.centralmainediesel.com/order/Kohler-Diesel-6500-Watt-Diesel-Generator.asp?page=Kohler_6500
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Jun 24, 2021 03:53
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Leaving tuesday morning for almost 4 weeks vacation. Heading for Kristiansand but as usual we play by weather and comfort so not super likely we'll get that far, but I'm optimistic we'll make it farther south than last year  I'll try to post some highlights as we go along but no promises, vacating with the family is usually pretty hectic stuff.
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Jul 4, 2021 13:16
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Cat Hatter posted:Now I kinda want to pick up some shoulder length gloves for animal husbandry just to have on hand* if I need them. Anyone that has to do maintenance on marine or aircraft heads/lavs should have those on hand. I speak from unfortunate experience.
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Jul 4, 2021 13:59
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Wibla posted:it's a bit late to dig into right now https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Lynx_Power_In/en/introduction.html https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/Lynx_Power_In/en/system-design.html looking over how to get power out of the batteries for electro slocum and the victron lynx power bus system seems to be a good option. But also still looking at the FET based daly 300a bms to control 2-4x banks of 310a 48v cells. Also reading up on wiring quote:If you cannot find a thick enough cable, double up. Use two cables wargames fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jul 6, 2021 |
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Jul 6, 2021 02:05
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I wasn’t a mathlete or anything but I’m pretty sure 2x35mm cables isn’t the same amount of copper as a 70mm cable.
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Jul 6, 2021 02:14
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Big Taint posted:I wasn’t a mathlete or anything but I’m pretty sure 2x35mm cables isn’t the same amount of copper as a 70mm cable. For AC wiring, due to skin effect, it's actually more  But yeah for DC you're correct
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Jul 6, 2021 03:20
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Well, you're both wrong. Two 35 mm^2 cables DO have the same amount of copper as one 70 mm^2 cable. Chinese cable is usually marked in cross section mm^2, not AWG, and definitely not diameter.
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Jul 6, 2021 05:55
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