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Autoexec.bat posted:Anyone here ever heard of green ATF? My replacement trans is full of it. Trans is a 3 speed that came from a 1990 Golf in Germany. Yeah, ZF lifeguard trans fluid is green. A while back was reading up about my 1990 ZF 5HP18 5spd auto trans and it could have been regular red ATF or ZF lifeguard green synthetic. Thankfully it was a black plate which is the cheaper standard dexron III Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Nov 25, 2018 |
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Nov 25, 2018 18:52
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Karma Comedian posted:My fuel pressure currently sits at an average of 42psi, is that fine? (I know next to nothing about injection) What kind of tank? Jeep Wrangler? What year? What engine did it originally have? An in-line pump is probably simpler, but I壇 bet a dollar someone makes an intank pump that値l work.
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Nov 25, 2018 19:09
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MrYenko posted:What kind of tank? Jeep Wrangler? What year? What engine did it originally have? Stock standard 97 wrangler tank, had the 2.5 originally. I知 looking for in tank because I知 already gonna drop the tank to put in a new fuel sender so I can have a gas gauge, finally
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Nov 25, 2018 19:12
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Karma Comedian posted:Stock standard 97 wrangler tank, had the 2.5 originally. Here痴 a good place to start: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/fuel-system/tj-xj-fuel-module You池e going to have to piece it together obviously, since the Holley EFI probably has different fittings.
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Nov 25, 2018 20:06
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'09 Corolla. Metal frame around the sunroof glass is rusted as gently caress. I need to find new glass at the junk yard. The cars are going to be immobile and whatnot. Is there a way to open the roof manually so I can unscrew the glass/frame from the track part?
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Nov 25, 2018 22:16
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Usually there is, once you remove the headliner there should be a manual gear drive around where the electronic controls are. Should be a flat head screwdriver to crank it.
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Nov 25, 2018 23:49
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Karma Comedian posted:My fuel pressure currently sits at an average of 42psi, is that fine? (I know next to nothing about injection) What's the FAST system looking for in terms of pressure? LSx systems (among others) like 60psi but not all fuel injection systems need that much.
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Nov 25, 2018 23:56
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I bought a 2008 Chrysler 300C at auction, last weekend. I popped in my OBII reader before the auction started, and the system was throwing a P0406 code. That code is EGR-related, and can apparently be anything from a bad valve to a carbon buildup. The car has high mileage (182,500 when I bought it), but seems to be in great shape. The engine is the 5.7-liter Hemi, and it's got that metal cover on it, and there isn't a ton of room and/or exposed surface in the engine compartment. Is there any diagnosis I can reasonably do on this issue in my driveway with normal tools (sockets, torque wrench, etc), or do I need to take it to a mechanic? Not a question, but a vent: I was under the car, last night, putting on new sway bar links and bushings. HOLY poo poo did whoever put on the wheels torque them WAY the gently caress down. It was incredible. I snapped an adapter and cracked a four-way breaking the nuts. As much as I really didn't want to, I ended up resorting to an impact wrench. Edit: Eh, looking at the four-way, the crack might just be in the coating. Still, though.
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Nov 26, 2018 01:38
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Veni Vidi Ameche! posted:As much as I really didn't want to, I ended up resorting to an impact wrench. Who would ever give you poo poo for impacting a nut OFF? That's what they're for!
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Nov 26, 2018 02:23
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Trying to troubleshoot an aftermarket 4 pin trailer connector on my 91 Land Cruiser. What are these connectors called? I think I understand how it痴 set up, but how do I service it? The lights work on the trailer, but the brake lights don稚 so I figure it痴 somewhere in this rats nest. Normally on butt connectors I just check for loose wires, but these seem solid. Do I just pry the tab open?
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Nov 26, 2018 02:35
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Yeah, pop the clip open, and you may need to pry the plastic open with a flat blade screwdriver. Inside the plastic is a metal "blade" with two grooves cut into it that pierce the insulation of the wires.
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Nov 26, 2018 02:51
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Those are vampire taps, and they loving suck.
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Nov 26, 2018 07:02
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There was a wad of poo poo like that in the trailer wiring of the van of horrors. When presented with this, an automotive wiring specialist in my extended family sighed disappointedly and proceeded to excise and dispose of it - with the expression of a tired single mother changing her 5000th foul, bloated diaper - before crimping in a new connector.
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Nov 26, 2018 10:35
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Geoj posted:Yeah, pop the clip open, and you may need to pry the plastic open with a flat blade screwdriver. Inside the plastic is a metal "blade" with two grooves cut into it that pierce the insulation of the wires. Can you probe them without opening them if your probes are sufficiently thin to slide along the insulation? (possibly use a paperclip)
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Nov 26, 2018 10:59
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savesthedayrocks posted:Trying to troubleshoot an aftermarket 4 pin trailer connector on my 91 Land Cruiser. What are these connectors called? Self stripping wire connectors or some poo poo. The trailer lights work but brake lights don't? Check the bulbs if they're dual filament. Sounds stupid, but even the best of us have brain farts and try to over think poo poo, without checking the simple, obvious poo poo first. Then check grounds.
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Nov 26, 2018 12:37
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Any recommendations for wire crimps? I have a good ratcheting crimper already.
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Nov 26, 2018 13:49
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wesleywillis posted:Self stripping wire connectors or some poo poo. Yeah, tried two different devices. One was a Home Depot trailer rental and the other is one of those 3rd brake light trailer hitches that uses LED痴. I値l check the ground before I open those up. The PO ran it across the back and I gave up pulling carpet up to find it. Thanks everyone else, is there a preferred replacement for those vampire crimps? While I have it pulled apart I wouldn稚 mind replacing them for piece of mind.
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Nov 26, 2018 14:16
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My car (renault clio) has been sat for a long time, I reconnected the battery and started it back up which was fine, but when I pushed the clutch in there was no resistance, moving the gearstick resulted in that horrible krkrkr noise and when I lifted my foot off the clutch the pedal stayed down. What has probably broken and/or what do I check next? edit: I checked the clutch cable is still connected to the pedal, I looked under the bonnet and I think it's still connected there but I wasn't so sure what I was looking at under there.
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Nov 26, 2018 15:46
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Crankit posted:My car (renault clio) has been sat for a long time, I reconnected the battery and started it back up which was fine, but when I pushed the clutch in there was no resistance, moving the gearstick resulted in that horrible krkrkr noise and when I lifted my foot off the clutch the pedal stayed down. Check you have clutch fluid in the reservoir. It may have dripped away whilst standing and you might get away with topping it up I'll bet your clutch slave cylinder has gone and it will need replacing.
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Nov 26, 2018 15:54
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opengl128 posted:Who would ever give you poo poo for impacting a nut OFF? That's what they're for! Just me, really. Lingering paranoia.
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Nov 26, 2018 17:06
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spog posted:Check you have clutch fluid in the reservoir. It may have dripped away whilst standing and you might get away with topping it up Great news, my stepdad spoke to a mechanic who advised me to give the clutch cable an almighty yank, now getting into and out of gear fine.
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Nov 26, 2018 18:29
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Crankit posted:Great news, my stepdad spoke to a mechanic who advised me to give the clutch cable an almighty yank, now getting into and out of gear fine. You lucky bastard. E: you might want to consider getting some oil in that cable. spog fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Nov 26, 2018 |
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Nov 26, 2018 19:12
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Wrar posted:Any recommendations for wire crimps? I have a good ratcheting crimper already. I got some from China off of AliExpress that have heat shrink tubing with built in glue. Those guys will seal a wire hermetically.
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Nov 26, 2018 19:17
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spankmeister posted:I got some from China off of AliExpress that have heat shrink tubing with built in glue. Those guys will seal a wire hermetically. Link to a good seller?
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Nov 26, 2018 19:19
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spog posted:Link to a good seller? These are the ones I got: 100pcs/set Heat Shrink Butt 3 Sizes Crimp Terminals Insulated Electrical Wire Cable Connectors For 22-10 AWG https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/kIAn1zO
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Nov 26, 2018 19:24
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the OEM tires on my 2017 corolla S are due for replacement. to my surprise they are 215/45/17 and *W* rated. WTF? how much latitude do i have to put a more common size (and more sensible speed rating) on this thing? edit: thanks! vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv nine16thsdago fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Nov 26, 2018 |
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Nov 26, 2018 20:51
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nine16thsdago posted:the OEM tires on my 2017 corolla S are due for replacement. to my surprise they are 215/45/17 and *W* rated. WTF? Honestly you're not going to find many sizes cheaper than 215/45 17 - its a very common tire size for OEMs. Sumitomo HTR A/S P02s have been my go-to all-season tire for the last few years. Only gripe I have with them is they can be a bit squeaky around corners, but for a sub-$100 all season tire they definitely punch above their class. They even do reasonably well in the snow if that's a concern, and also W-speed rated (although matching the speed rating is only really a concern if you routinely drive the car near or at the rated speed - which in this case is 168 MPH.) Geoj fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Nov 26, 2018 |
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Nov 26, 2018 21:01
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spankmeister posted:These are the ones I got: Thank you. Standard ratchet crimping tool? (I bought one of those wire strippers/crimpers combi tool and it is predictably shite at crimping)
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Nov 26, 2018 21:37
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spog posted:Thank you. Yeah just the standard ones, with the yellow, red and blue dots.
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Nov 27, 2018 09:34
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spankmeister posted:Yeah just the standard ones, with the yellow, red and blue dots.  ? I never had a lot of luck with these - well, they seemed to work, but they always felt like the crimp was mashed up. They work well for you?
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Nov 27, 2018 09:44
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spog posted:
Oh not those, ratcheting ones: 
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Nov 27, 2018 09:47
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spankmeister posted:Oh not those, ratcheting ones: That makes more sense. I've always thought of those lovely ones as the 'red, yellow, blue dot tools' so I was a little confused. E: I've just seen these things:  Heat Shrink Solder Sleeves Electrical Wire Butt Terminals Non Crimp Connectors and I am curious if anyone thinks they are any good. I think I'll stick with the crimping ones because I will know that I've made a good connection, but they do intrigue me - at the very least, they make a good emergency repair kit item. spog fucked around with this message at 10:32 on Nov 27, 2018 |
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Nov 27, 2018 10:08
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I'm one of those guys that will not allow solder in my car wiring because of corrosion concerns. Even a tiny amount like that could cause future issues.
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Nov 27, 2018 15:45
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I frequently see people say to consult the owner's manual for frequency of maintenance items like transmission fluid and oil change. I own a 2014 Civic sedan and I cannot for the life of me find such concrete information in the manual (http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2014/Civic-Sedan/manuals). The manual seems to just say to go by what the maintenance minder says. Can someone point out the information just for my future reference? I'm asking because I'm approaching 7500 miles on oil change and the maintenance minder still says my oil life is at 50%. Everyone I talk to seems a little skeptical when I mention this, so I was wondering if I should continue to go by the maintenance minder or just get the oil replaced. Also, I'm not sure how often I should get transmission fluid and coolant replaced, and the manual also doesn't give a concrete number. edit: There are some rates for transmission/air filter change under the assumption you are driving in hilly conditions or on dusty roads, but these do not apply to me. drainpipe fucked around with this message at 16:53 on Nov 27, 2018 |
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Nov 27, 2018 16:36
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How many miles? Can't seem to find any information re: transmission change interval for your model. Honda specific forums replies all seem to point to "follow the maintenance minder," I'd probably just stick with that. 7.5k on the oil does seem a bit high for the minder to be displaying 50% oil life. If you're really paranoid send a sample to Blackstone labs and see what they say.
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Nov 27, 2018 16:53
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I just crossed the 40k mile threshhold. I'll give the lab analysis some consideration.
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Nov 27, 2018 16:56
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drainpipe posted:I frequently see people say to consult the owner's manual for frequency of maintenance items like transmission fluid and oil change. I own a 2014 Civic sedan and I cannot for the life of me find such concrete information in the manual (http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2014/Civic-Sedan/manuals). The manual seems to just say to go by what the maintenance minder says. Can someone point out the information just for my future reference? The maintenance minder is accurate as far as I've been able to tell. I ran a sample from my '13 CRV to Blackstone ages ago and their estimate on oil lifespan left was within a few percent of what the car was telling me. You're using synthetic 0w20, right? I'm guessing you do a lot of highway driving? I wouldn't sweat it. Edit: It does keep track of different types of services too. Mine didn't ask for a transmission fluid change until ~60k and the next one was something like ~100k. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Nov 27, 2018 |
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Nov 27, 2018 16:58
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CVT? Can't speak to them but generally, at the earliest, modern automatic transmissions don't need a fluid change until after 50,000. I did see some posts on a CR-V forum that there's a "severe duty" interval for the CVT at 25,000 miles - but that would only apply to a vehicle used for towing or frequently going up and down mountains, etc.
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Nov 27, 2018 17:00
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drainpipe posted:I frequently see people say to consult the owner's manual for frequency of maintenance items like transmission fluid and oil change. I own a 2014 Civic sedan and I cannot for the life of me find such concrete information in the manual (http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2014/Civic-Sedan/manuals). The manual seems to just say to go by what the maintenance minder says. Can someone point out the information just for my future reference? You can generally go about 10,000 miles on synthetic oil, or one year. You can change it before the Maintenance Minder tells you to. I looked at the OM and the section on the MM tells you how it works. It monitors mileage and pops up codes now and then that you have to decode to determine what needs to be done.  In this image from the OM (page 359), the code A2345 means you need to change the oil (main item A), replace the air cleaner, cabin filter, and inspect the drive belt (subitem 2), replace the transmission fluid (subitem 3), replace the spark plugs and inspect the valves (subitem 4), and replace the coolant (subitem 5). I think most of these are strictly mileage based, so rather than relying on you to read your odometer and look up on a table what's due when, it watches the odometer for you and tells you to do them. There's probably a table of all of it out there on the internet somewhere if you don't trust the monitor.
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Nov 27, 2018 17:04
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Deteriorata posted:I think most of these are strictly mileage based, so rather than relying on you to read your odometer and look up on a table what's due when, it watches the odometer for you and tells you to do them. There's probably a table of all of it out there on the internet somewhere if you don't trust the monitor. It's not a hard timer, it does vary based on conditions. Mine requested the second transmission fluid change a lot sooner than the first one.
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Nov 27, 2018 17:06
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