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I've got a i7-3770 with a Samuel 7 which works fine in the current case (PC-Q08) as the PSU is directly above it but I'm switching to a node 304 where the exhaust fan will be right next to it so I'm looking to change heatsinks. I have a Noctua NH-U12S in my media server with the same case and run that one passively due to the proximity of the exhaust fan. The NH-U14S came up in my searching for builds with this case and I'm kind of wondering if I should consider getting it instead since it's a bit beefier? I'll be running it with a RTX 2080.
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Sep 21, 2018 12:30
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Gonna be upgrading my video card soon. I do a lot of gaming, but am also getting into Daz3d rendering, and this is complicating my decision over what card to buy. CUDA cores are important in modern daz rendering, but I'm not sure exactly how much weight to give number of cuda cores compared to the card's other specs, or if there's an improvement in the cores' themselves hardware/architecture from 10*0 to 20*0. The thing is I'm also mildly curious about the 2070. Does the next gen memory matter at all (quality vs quantity?) and could architectural/process improvements close the gap for the ~10+ percent lower clock speed and cuda count? And there's a sale at a local store ending on Sep 30: 1080ti $650 1080gtx $500.
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Sep 21, 2018 14:18
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MRA PUA Tay-Tay Fan posted:Gonna be upgrading my video card soon. I do a lot of gaming, but am also getting into Daz3d rendering, and this is complicating my decision over what card to buy. CUDA cores are important in modern daz rendering, but I'm not sure exactly how much weight to give number of cuda cores compared to the card's other specs, or if there's an improvement in the cores' themselves hardware/architecture from 10*0 to 20*0. The thing is I'm also mildly curious about the 2070. Does the next gen memory matter at all (quality vs quantity?) and could architectural/process improvements close the gap for the ~10+ percent lower clock speed and cuda count? Going by CUDA cores alone (using the prices above plus the cheapest current prices for the 2xxx cards): 2080Ti: 4352 ($0.268/core) 1080Ti: 3584 ($0.181/core) 2080: 2944 ($0.268/core) 1080: 2560 ($0.195/core)* *there have been cheaper 1080s than $500 which would undoubtedly make them the best value for the money Funny how the 2080 and 2080Ti are priced the same with regards to cost per CUDA core. Anyway, you can't really go wrong with a 1080Ti in your usage scenario. No one knows much about the 2070 at the moment, either - but it's a pretty safe guess from the 1080Ti vs. 2080 figures that it's not going to be a barn-burner of a card. I'm guessing it'll be somewhat faster than a 1080 - but not appreciably so - and simply incorporate the new ~secret sauce~. There's also the as-yet-unconfirmed rumor that the 2070 will not have an NVLink connector. As for GDDR6 vs. GDDR5/5X...  at this point.
BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Sep 21, 2018 |
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Sep 21, 2018 14:28
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BIG HEADLINE posted:So Newegg has a 2x16 DDR4-3200 G.Skill Ripjaws set for $265.99 after the promo code EMCPYRE22: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232091 The last time I built a PC, RAM heat spreaders were dumb and bad. Seems like they can't be avoided now - are they actually needed? And do giant CPU air coolers tend to clear things like those Ripjaws spreaders now or is that still a problem? Starting to snag components as I can for a planned Z390/i7 build.
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Sep 21, 2018 15:59
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Raised by Hamsters posted:The last time I built a PC, RAM heat spreaders were dumb and bad. Seems like they can't be avoided now - are they actually needed? And do giant CPU air coolers tend to clear things like those Ripjaws spreaders now or is that still a problem? Starting to snag components as I can for a planned Z390/i7 build. Nope, heat spreaders on ram don't do anything worthwhile, and can cause problems with large coolers, though that depends on your cooler, ram and Mobo.
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Sep 21, 2018 16:08
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Hi thread. I am planning a new build for later this fall and I am starting to load all info back in to my head. I am definitely waiting a few months and I will be evaluating new CPU's and video cards etc, but one thing I am pretty set on is that I would like to try a mini ITX build. Specifically, a mini ITX build with a decent sized GPU in a fairly slim case (not a cube case). I have been looking around both the Fractal Node 202 ( https://goo.gl/u23tBQ ) and Phanteks Evolve Shift ( https://goo.gl/j58EAC ) seem pretty cool. So, does anyone have experience with either of these cases? Suggestions for alternative cases with similar styling? Strong reasons why I should not do this? I realize that this makes it harder than it has to be and I am fine with that. I have built my own PC's since the late 90's although I have never tried a small form factor one. It does seem that it will be easier these days than ever before, given I no longer need an optical drive, no expansion cards other than GPU, I can get a 1TB+ M2 SSD (I have other machines for bulk storage) all of which really cuts down on internal wire running. Thanks!
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Sep 21, 2018 16:15
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You can buy value ram without heat spreaders. The price gouging seems to have moved on from bigger and more elaborate heat spreaders to brighter and more controllable RGB LEDs, though. I have a question of my own: a rattling noise began emanating from the depths of my computer today, which has a 240mm AIO radiator. Some googling suggested that the kind of noise I was hearing could be air bubbles in the AIO circuit, so I took the whole tower off my desk, slowly rotated it upside down a few times on the carpet and heard some suitably satisfying sloshing from the innards, and now the rattling has stopped. Is that anything I should be worried about? The highest point on my AIO circuit is in the middle of the tube, since my radiator is front-mounted rather than top-mounted. Is this a Bad Thing? The pump is about an inch below the top of the radiator, which itself is about half an inch below the highest point in the curve of the tubing . ronya fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Sep 21, 2018 |
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Sep 21, 2018 16:58
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You're supposed to mount it the other way, so the tubes are the low point in the system. The way you're doing it tends to leak more air into the system via the tubes.
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Sep 21, 2018 17:05
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The tubing won't reach far enough to mount it that way on a front mount position, though, which is pretty common for a front mount. Hmm. How bad is the effect?
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Sep 21, 2018 17:09
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BIG HEADLINE posted:So Newegg has a 2x16 DDR4-3200 G.Skill Ripjaws set for $265.99 after the promo code EMCPYRE22: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232091 Amazon has same day delivery, not same day shipping, same day delivery. You order before 8am and it’s at your door between 3-9pm. It costs 10$ a month and I use it because I’m a hermit (don’t make fun of me) But to be fair, ordering computer parts and waking up to them the next morning is kind of like Christmas, atleast for this household
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Sep 21, 2018 18:33
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I want to do an AMD build with a smaller form factor. Here is my current build. I currently have a ATX mid-tower but want to explore MicroATX or even a Mini-ITX if it's doable. My work area is becoming just too crowded and I'm really looking for a setup that I can stow away easier. Country: Canada System use: 70% video editing, 30% gaming Budget: $1500 CAD Software used: Adobe Creative Cloud, Davinci Resolve But firstly- is a MicroATX/Mini-ITX build even feasible for my intended use, or will my rig end up being an overheated mess? I was looking at this build from 4kShooters and was looking to see if I could somehow make it workable in a smaller form factor melon cat fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Sep 21, 2018 |
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Sep 21, 2018 20:02
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You absolutely can. It's a LOT more difficult to build in a smaller case. I haven't played with that particular NZXT case, but I am real happy with my H200. Here's my old build (hello case buddy!) for scale https://pcpartpicker.com/user/LRADIKAL/builds/#view=tmWD4D Here's the H200 I built. https://pcpartpicker.com/user/LRADIKAL/builds/#view=cJRJ7P I actually DON'T recommend something as big as the dark rock pro 4 for this case. It is impossible to get all the fans and all the motherboard screws in (moved fan to back side of cooler after these pictures were taken). It's not a tiny case, but since I built it, I decided that I would need some real serious motivation if I ever wanted to go smaller. The build you linked is certainly out of date, but not unreasonable. Consider also that with mini-itx you only have 2 RAM slots, and some micro atx may or may not have 4. Something to keep in mind for potentially memory heavy processes.
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Sep 21, 2018 20:19
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LRADIKAL posted:You absolutely can. It's a LOT more difficult to build in a smaller case. I haven't played with that particular NZXT case, but I am real happy with my H200. Ayy 'sup Fractal pal. Also I really like your H200 build- thanks for sharing it. I'll need 32GB RAM mostly due to my video edit projects- is there any reason why I can't (or shouldn't) just buy 2x16GB DDR4 sticks? And what's your experience like with the EX920? I've never used M.2/PCI-E ssds before. melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Sep 21, 2018 |
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Sep 21, 2018 20:45
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2x16 gb is fine. Probably best to refer to qvl sheets or find confirmed memory that works at or near xmp speeds. Otherwise you can end up with slower RAM then you paid for. I like the SSD. It reviewed well, is cheaper than Samsung and faster than Intel. Haven't heard any complaints about it.
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Sep 21, 2018 23:52
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So I've been keeping track of some components and saw a refurbished MSI Gaming Pro Carbon, which I bought since it was about on the level with the Extreme4 while costing 50 bucks less. So I guess I've started my upgrade.  I figured with RTX being released, an impending trade war and me being able to save some cash for once I might as well get started.What country are you in? Sweden, so Newegg and Amazon prices and rebates don't apply. But the relative costs and price/performance should be about the same. What are you using the system for? Gaming, watching movies and some light office work from home. What's your budget? About $1000, some stuff being reused If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? 1080p 60hz. If I get more cash to spare in the near future I may buy a 1440p monitor, perhaps with 144hz and g-sync. Or I may buy another 1080p monitor and use it together with the old one for both gaming and work. But reaching a certain FPS isn't all that important although staying at 60 would be nice. Not interested in VR either. My system is about 7 years old (my AMD 6870 died a couple of months ago and was replaced with a GTX580) and still chugging along. However, I've found I'm getting more and more sensitive to noise and a Phenom II X4 and GTX580 makes a lot of that. I have to play recent games with headphones on and have basically put off buying some newer games that I've tried demos of because it's hard becoming immersed with a vacuum cleaner next to you. Plus it can't be healthy for the components to be under that much stress. So staying quiet is a priority this time. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600 3.1GHz 6-Core Processor ($255.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($60.00) Motherboard: MSI - Z370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($136.00) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 840 EVO 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 500GB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($439.98 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design - Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24D3ST DVD/CD Writer ($21.89 @ OutletPC) Case Fan: Fractal Design - FD-FAN-SSR2-140 66.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($13.89 @ SuperBiiz) Total: $1132.73 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-21 19:13 EDT-0400 This is above budget both in $ and SEK, If I buy the GTX used for about $315 it will be just on the line. The reason I'm putting a Noctua NH-D14 there is because I'm eyeing a refurbished one which will be only slightly more expensive than a Cryorig H5 or Scythe Mugen 5. Again, I would like to keep noise low, that is also why I'm getting another 140mm fan in the front of the case. I'd happily take advice or getting pointed to a resource on how to use rubber screws and installing sound dampening material (the case has some pre-installed). I'm really unsure about the CPU. If I'm already getting a high end cooler and motherboard made for overclocking I would perhaps be throwing away money not getting a K-version? Or is it better to save money and get a 8400 and then upgrade when the system starts showing it's age (although I won't be able to use 9XXX on a Z370 board if I've understood correctly?). The 8600K is quite a bit more costly and I would like to make room in the budget for replacing my 12+ year old speakers and getting another larger SSD. Any other suggestions?
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Sep 22, 2018 00:20
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Captain Scandinaiva posted:So I've been keeping track of some components and saw a refurbished MSI Gaming Pro Carbon, which I bought since it was about on the level with the Extreme4 while costing 50 bucks less. So I guess I've started my upgrade. Take this with a grain of salt but it may be cheaper to buy a second hand pre assembled machine, maybe an Alienware, check eBay. I don’t really keep up with computer hardware aside from what I read on slashdot but premade computers from a major manufacturer are generally pretty reliable, which is something to consider budget wise But if you’re like me, and you’re on your way to his Xanax pill I’d wait for other goons opinions
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Sep 22, 2018 00:25
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Captain Scandinaiva posted:So I've been keeping track of some components and saw a refurbished MSI Gaming Pro Carbon, which I bought since it was about on the level with the Extreme4 while costing 50 bucks less. So I guess I've started my upgrade. That's a solid build, and will still be solid at 1440p, though a 1070 might require you to turn down graphics to get >60Hz in a few of the newest AAA games (I sometimes have to do so even on a 1080 Ti). In the US where the 8600K is currently only $10 over the 8600, it's a no-brainer. If it's quite a bit more expensive, then it's a tougher sell. The 8600 (which should perform equivalently to a stock 8600K) is a 3-8% increase in gaming performance over an 8400, and overclocking to 5GHz is another 3-8% boost over the stock 8600. If you go with an 8400 or 8600, you don't technically need a third-party cooler, though the Noctua will definitely be quieter than the stock cooler. Other than that, I might consider the Define R6 or R5 if prices are similar. The Define R6 and R5 have better dust filters, and a little more GPU headroom, and I believe the R6 has a full PWM fan hub instead of a 3-speed one. Stickman fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Sep 22, 2018 |
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Sep 22, 2018 01:48
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Captain Scandinaiva posted:I'm really unsure about the CPU. If I'm already getting a high end cooler and motherboard made for overclocking I would perhaps be throwing away money not getting a K-version? Or is it better to save money and get a 8400 and then upgrade when the system starts showing it's age (although I won't be able to use 9XXX on a Z370 board if I've understood correctly?). The 8600K is quite a bit more costly and I would like to make room in the budget for replacing my 12+ year old speakers and getting another larger SSD.
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Sep 22, 2018 02:38
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Paul MaudDib posted:$1500 is a reasonable budget without the monitor but you're not going to squeeze a 1080 Ti build into $1000 excluding monitor. There's not much fat left to cut there - you just aren't going to make a $1000 PC budget with a $650 graphics card included. Thanks for the tip on the brand for the SSD--I swapped the Western Digital for Crucial. Can you help me understand why the Ripjaws DDR4-3000 is a "better model" than the Ripjaws DDR4-3200? I assumed the 3200 would be better than the 3000.
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Sep 22, 2018 03:16
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https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3333-memory-timings-defined-cas-latency-trcd-trp-tras This should be helpful.
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Sep 22, 2018 03:23
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LRADIKAL posted:https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3333-memory-timings-defined-cas-latency-trcd-trp-tras I think it's a little bit ambiguous in this case. The 3000 15-15-15-34 RAM will have lower latency than the 3200 16-18-18-38 RAM for large wrong-row access, but higher latency for same-row access and for sequential small wrong-row access (because of the lower true speed of TRAS). And the 3200 will have higher bandwidth, regardless. VVV Definitely agree VVV Stickman fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Sep 22, 2018 |
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Sep 22, 2018 03:57
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Buy whatever's cheaper. If it was a Ryzen system it would go to the higher frequency RAM. Not a big deal either way.
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Sep 22, 2018 04:02
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Ardlen posted:You should be able to upgrade to a 9XXX on a Z370 down the line. It just requires a bios update, which you can't do without a <9th gen CPU. To be fair, we're not entirely sure yet. There is a chance Intel saw the difficulties AMD had and tailored their microcode to allow 9th gen CPUs at least to get to a point in the boot process to allow for a BIOS flash. They just haven't been forthcoming yet, and it also comes down to how the AIBs made their boards, so it's a chicken before *and* after the egg kind of thing. All we know for sure at the moment is that most Z370 boards have had BIOS updates which should allow them to run 9th gen chips.
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Sep 22, 2018 04:33
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Stickman posted:That's a solid build, and will still be solid at 1440p, though a 1070 might require you to turn down graphics to get >60Hz in a few of the newest AAA games (I sometimes have to do so even on a 1080 Ti). In the US where the 8600K is currently only $10 over the 8600, it's a no-brainer. If it's quite a bit more expensive, then it's a tougher sell. The 8600 (which should perform equivalently to a stock 8600K) is a 3-8% increase in gaming performance over an 8400, and overclocking to 5GHz is another 3-8% boost over the stock 8600. If you go with an 8400 or 8600, you don't technically need a third-party cooler, though the Noctua will definitely be quieter than the stock cooler. Your link points to evga.com but I'll take your word for the numbers.  Thanks, great to know I'm on the right track! The 8600K is actually only about $25 over the non-K but since I'm already treading the line here... I'm probably gonna wait for a good deal on a GTX1070 anyway, so perhaps prices on the CPUs will come down a bit or I'll be able to snag a refurb again. I'll aim for a 8600K.Yeah, the R4 is a hold over from my current system to save on money. I figure an extra fan in the front will help some with dust. But what does having a 3-speed fan hub mean? Do fans only have 3 speeds even in auto mode? Two more questions. The motherboard comes without any extras, not even the original box. I have SATA cables (I think they are 6gb/s? They're red) and I guess the screws for my current MB will work for the new one? Anything else I should think of buying that won't be included? And since MSI is the manufacturer, would I see any benefit in buying a MSI gfx? I guess they wouldn't pair the hardware in any way but do they have some common software suite or something? Otherwise I'll keep my eye out for any MSI, ASUS or EVGA with big or triple fans. Edit: regarding upgrading to 9th generation Intel, since I've already bought the motherboard I'll just have to keep my fingers crossed. But since my current system lasted me 7 years, I may skip a couple of generations before upgrading next time. Which I guess speaks in favor of getting a 8600K now. Captain Scandinaiva fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Sep 22, 2018 |
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Sep 22, 2018 08:48
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As a computer hobbiest let me recommend some nice things to have on hand.
What obvious, cheap things am I missing?
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Sep 22, 2018 09:15
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Extra drive screws Alcohol wipes that won't fray Needle nose pliers (not tweezers) for putting in mobo stands/screwing in bolts at range
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Sep 22, 2018 09:29
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Captain Scandinaiva posted:Your link points to evga.com but I'll take your word for the numbers. Shoot - must have copied the wrong tab. I was trying link Gamers Nexus' 8600K review benchmarks. The 8400 is also a solid pick if you can save a stack of krona on it. The R4 is a great case, so if you already have it I would worry about the R5 or R6. The R4 and R5 have a voltage-modulated fan hub that gives you direct manual control over voltage-modulated 3-pin fans, with settings for 5, 7, or 12 volts (see page 3 of the R4 manual). The R6 has a PWM (pulse-width modulated) fan hub that can connect both 3-pin voltage-modulated fans and 4-pin pulse-modulated fans, and then connects to a 4-pin connector on your motherboard to allow the bios to control all the connected fans in software (see page 7). You lose physical control, but can connect more PWM/3-pin fans than your motherboard might otherwise allow. Captain Scandinaiva posted:Two more questions. From the motherboard manual, it looks like you'd only be missing out on the RGB extension cables and maybe the I/O shield, which you may be able to find somewhere (ebay?) if you need them. The I/O shield is probably more important than the RGB extension cables  Screws actually come with the case rather than the motherboard, so you wouldn't be getting those anyway!So far as I know no manufactures offer any performance or feature advantage to pairing their GPUs with their motherboards, either hardware or software. I wouldn't worry about that when choosing a graphics card. If you're going for a 1080 Ti, the EVGA SC2 and FTW3 are both solid models and EVGA support is top-notch. The black edition performs just as well, but lacks the asynchronous fan controls that will separately control the fan speed for the GPU and VRAM. LRADIKAL posted:What obvious, cheap things am I missing? Thumb drive for installing windows/*nix. Normally I'd add "bandaids", but hopefully those won't be necessary with a Define R4! Stickman fucked around with this message at 09:46 on Sep 22, 2018 |
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Sep 22, 2018 09:42
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It's amazing how the newer the case the less you bleed.
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Sep 22, 2018 10:46
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A Strange Aeon posted:Can you help me understand why the Ripjaws DDR4-3000 is a "better model" than the Ripjaws DDR4-3200? I assumed the 3200 would be better than the 3000. I actually mixed up my tabs and thought you had the 3000 and I had the 3200 3000 CAS15 and 3200 CAS16 are pretty much the same thing, but if it makes you feel better spend the extra $10, it's not a big deal on a $2200 build.
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Sep 22, 2018 12:16
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LRADIKAL posted:It's amazing how the newer the case the less you bleed. Blasphemous, I tell you! Every new build requires a blood sacrifice, no matter how small.
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Sep 22, 2018 13:02
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LRADIKAL posted:As a computer hobbiest let me recommend some nice things to have on hand. Not that cheap compared to some other things on the list and needs a bit of knowledge to use, but a multimeter can be nice.
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Sep 22, 2018 14:48
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Eletriarnation posted:Not that cheap compared to some other things on the list and needs a bit of knowledge to use, but a multimeter can be nice. In 25 years of computer building, I have never once thought to myself, "hey, I need a multimeter..." at any point. Is this just if you want to be thorough and have an electrician kit, or have you actually had to use one, like... Ever.
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Sep 22, 2018 14:52
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Not really need but it can be useful, the most recent thing I remember coming up is when I had a couple of passive fan speed adapters and wasn't sure which did what - checking the resistance across the hot wire helped clear that up. Also useful for following wires/traces, checking to see if a wire is hot safely, checking the charge on a battery... It's not at the level of "Philips screwdriver" or "flashlight" but it's a pretty useful thing to have for $20. Don't buy one if you disagree.
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Sep 22, 2018 14:58
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I was just honestly curious, though the fan speed thing makes a lot of sense. Learned something new.
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Sep 22, 2018 15:09
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How big of a deal are newer cases? I have a corsair carbide 509r that I used in my build 6 years ago. Would it be okay to use it for my new build or should I buy a new case with some new whacky gimmick?
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Sep 22, 2018 15:11
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You can still use a case from 15 years ago for a new board, you just have to deal with the conventions of the time like USB 2.0 front panels and 80mm fans. ATX power supplies, motherboards, drive bays etc. all have the same layout they did then. I don't know the 500R personally but from looking at the Corsair page, it seems to have all of the modern essentials that would be expected.
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Sep 22, 2018 15:25
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Case technology has changed so drastically in the last few years that it's worth it (IMHO) to get a new one
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Sep 22, 2018 15:39
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Eletriarnation posted:You can still use a case from 15 years ago for a new board, you just have to deal with the conventions of the time like USB 2.0 front panels and 80mm fans. ATX power supplies, motherboards, drive bays etc. all have the same layout they did then. I don't know the 500R personally but from looking at the Corsair page, it seems to have all of the modern essentials that would be expected. A lot of the biggest issues with older cases are solved by fully-modular power supplies.
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Sep 22, 2018 15:39
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That and new cases are actually designed with thought put into cable management, which is HUGE.
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Sep 22, 2018 15:50
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Improvements in functionality and ease-of-use are pretty good. But it should also be said that aesthetics are where case manufacturers spend the majority of their attention. It's hard to imagine a case that looked like the H500 being released even a few years ago:  Compare with an actual new case that released in 2015 somehow: 
Llamadeus fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 22, 2018 |
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Sep 22, 2018 16:04
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