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Finished some 28mm test figures. They are Bolt Action 28mm Plastic British Infantry and a plastic British Commando figure (with the cap badge removed so it looks like a service cap).   
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Nov 6, 2011 05:27
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Looking good. The Bolt Action plastics seem really nice, but they dont really seem any cheaper than the metals. You get nearly twice the figures with the Perry, Gripping Beast or Victrix plastic sets at less price.
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Nov 6, 2011 10:40
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Something a bit different. Bought a couple of fleets from Navwar - 1/3000 scale WW2 naval to play General Quarters 3 with (when I ever get round to it). Each ship is about 3 inches long. Made a start on my Japanese fleet:  Pictured (top to bottom) are the Ryujo, Hiryu, Kongo, Yamashiro, Fuso and Kirishima. Still got masses of Cruisers and Destroyers to paint as well as a US fleet. Hope you like them.
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Nov 6, 2011 22:48
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big_g posted:I think most Soviet AFVs and vehicles came straight out of the factory, had a rushed spray of some form of green paint, drove out, turned left towards the front line and then had a life expectancy of about three weeks. 1: fukken IL-2; 2: you look at them that way;
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Nov 7, 2011 02:36
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Arquinsiel posted:A lot of them never even got painted, and others had slogans painted on by commissars, and then quietly painted over as soon as the commissar was out of sight. If I was going to put any markings on a Russian tank I'd have it on the top so as to be visable from the air, since: Yeah I think the common consensus is that most vehicle markings post Barbarossa were done for propaganda photos, and not really used in the field. I wouldn't cover my green tank with bright white markings for the fascist dogs to shoot at.
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Nov 7, 2011 03:44
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With all this talk of Flames of War and combined with Gray Hunter's War in the East LP, I got a serious Ostfront itch going on. I've never painted tanks before, so I decided to just dive in. This is my first attempt with weathering and (coming heavily from 6mm) highlighting, and I think it's come out really well:  Impressions? Critiques? Apologies for the iPhone pictures.
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Nov 9, 2011 02:39
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Sup, new-at-Soviets buddy.    I think your tank would benefit a lot from inking. Don't be afraid to use black! I mix about 1/2 Future with 1/2 distilled water and many drops of black India ink. You'll have a glossy ink that will recess nicely into crevasses, but you can kill the gloss with a matte finish. This will look great on your metallic treads and wheels. It looks like you may have missed a few details that you can easily pick out. There's some tread links on the front (under the machine gun), and a grille and exhausts on the back that you could easily hit with a gunmetal and then ink black. Ideally you want to break up the single-color that's going on. There's a lot of subtle color variance in your tank commander (who looks great) but he's sitting in a near-solid green blob. Smash that up with lining and details! You don't need to go crazy with details, but there's room to make it more visually interesting before it becomes too busy.
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Nov 9, 2011 04:38
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Yeah I went over it and I totally missed a bunch of details. Oh well, learning process! I was sort of afraid to use the ink since I'd never used it before, but drat does it ever make a difference. Even just inking and highlighting afterwards makes the tank pop so much more, even if these crappy pictures don't quite do the justice. 
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Nov 9, 2011 07:08
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What does the floor polish do to the wash?
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Nov 9, 2011 16:00
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I find that it gives lining better definition than just watering down ink with water or alcohol. I need to mix up some more tonight, but I'll post photos later.
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Nov 9, 2011 16:29
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Oxford Comma posted:What does the floor polish do to the wash? Future washes are awesome. I use about a 30:1 to 50:1 mix of Future to black acrylic paint. Basically, take an old paint pot (3 oz.?) fill with Future. Then mix in a few drops of black paint. Stir it up (don't shake), and brush it on. Something about the chemistry in the Future acrylic floor wax causes the paint to dissipate but not dissolve, so the mixture settles the pigment into crevices, but doesn't shade over the base coloring like an ink.
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Nov 9, 2011 21:30
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Tamir Lenk posted:Future washes are awesome. This. I took an 1oz dropper bottle, filled it halfway with future, another 1/4 with water, (leaving the bottle 1/4 empty) and then ten drops of black India ink.  (Huge original) You can see which one I did. The guy all the way on the right shows approximately what it looked like before. But you can also see how drat shiny everything gets, and why you'll need to matte finish. It'll pick out mold lines and sometimes pool in awkward areas, so you'll want to go over your base colors again and then do your highlights last. It'll also ruin skintones, so don't bother trying to get them right before you've inked. moths fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Nov 10, 2011 |
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Nov 10, 2011 00:31
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I don't know much about historical models since I mostly paint Warhammer and the like, but I'd really like to build and paint a Messerschmitt Me-163 Komet rocket plane. Some quick googling shows that every company I could think of makes them (Tamiya, Testors, etc). What historicals/model plane company has the rigt combination of detail, scale, quality and price?
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Nov 12, 2011 03:18
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The Blue Pyramid posted:I don't know much about historical models since I mostly paint Warhammer and the like, but I'd really like to build and paint a Messerschmitt Me-163 Komet rocket plane. Some quick googling shows that every company I could think of makes them (Tamiya, Testors, etc). What historicals/model plane company has the rigt combination of detail, scale, quality and price? Myself, I have no idea, but you might want to ask in this thread too (the scale modelling thread in DIY & Hobbies): http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3148869
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Nov 12, 2011 03:46
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Just got a handful of Soviets (mostly) done! They need to be matte sealed because they're still glossy shiny, but have a look: Stand of infantry.  Above stand with Kommissar.  Random officer.  Pumpkin-headed Battlefront spotters. They look kind of rear end blown up 300%, but I love my little red army men anyway. Those spotters were the first and probably last Battlefront figures I buy.
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Nov 12, 2011 15:09
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moths posted:They look very nice, but the depth of field you used on this one makes it stand out. Well done.
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Nov 12, 2011 16:06
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The proportions seem sort of off. What scale is this?
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Nov 12, 2011 19:20
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Thanks! I'm really happy with how that shot came out, too. It's 15mm, so each standing figure is roughly 3/4" tall. The observer team's proportions look off because Battlefront uses GW's "Heroic" scale, where the head is enlarged to show facial expressions. If you look closely, their heads are nearly as wide as their shoulders. It's as if WWII were fought by Charlie Browns and bobble-heads. The other figures are a mix of Legions East and Peter Pig. I'm using them since they fit nicely with Old Glory's Command Decision, which are cheap as hell and look great (but haven't shown up in the mail yet).
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Nov 12, 2011 20:52
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Ah, I was wondering why GW figures looked like that. I'm used to realistically proportioned figures, so they look really strange to me.
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Nov 12, 2011 20:55
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I noticed the same now with me and a friend painting up 6mm napoleonics. Adler makes really nice and expressive miniatures, but it is through enlarging the heads. Baccus is more realistic, but a tad boring in comparison. Both ways have their pros and cons.
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Nov 12, 2011 21:46
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I think the proportions work better for fantasy or scifi where you are upscaling an ork or alien head to show detail. Mantic released a line of elves that had "realistically" proportioned heads, hands, and bodies. I understand that they flopped, with the general consensus that they look far too weedy and slender.
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Nov 12, 2011 23:11
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I just made this thing. It's not for wargaming, but it's still historical (unless that's not the proper green, of course).
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Nov 13, 2011 00:25
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Ensign Expendable posted:Ah, I was wondering why GW figures looked like that. I'm used to realistically proportioned figures, so they look really strange to me. GW figures are anything but realistically proportioned.
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Nov 13, 2011 00:41
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I visited a couple of local FOW clubs and so my brother and I are converting our AAM minis into a FOW army. I ended up going with British because we had a pile of Cromwell's and Sherman VC's, which along with a company box of British infantry I found in a 50% off bargain bin gives me a 1000 point army from the 11th Armored Division list. Googling for AAR's of people using the list I can't find anything but a few random forum posts complaining about it being somewhat cheesy. Any of you guys have any impressions of it to share? Official Briefing and PDF army list: http://www.flamesofwar.com/hobby.aspx?art_id=2596
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Nov 13, 2011 18:14
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Aw crud, Wargames Factory finally have pics of their 28mm samurai, and let's just say that they are a bit lacking. Now, is there a chance that I will refuse to pick up a box just to see if they can be painted up decently? Probably not. I just hope their ashigaru will be better. http://wargamesfactory.com/announcements/assembled-samurai
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Nov 13, 2011 22:05
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Is there anywhere I can get cutout medieval minis? I'm poor and have no desire to paint, so something that can just be printed out is vastly preferable.
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Nov 13, 2011 22:14
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lilljonas posted:Aw crud, Wargames Factory finally have pics of their 28mm samurai, and let's just say that they are a bit lacking. Now, is there a chance that I will refuse to pick up a box just to see if they can be painted up decently? Probably not. I just hope their ashigaru will be better. I cant really think of a Wargames Factory set that isnt to be honest.
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Nov 13, 2011 22:43
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WickedIcon posted:Is there anywhere I can get cutout medieval minis? I'm poor and have no desire to paint, so something that can just be printed out is vastly preferable. Go to https://www.wargamesvault.com they have a bunch of paper based games and figures (in pdf format) for free or a little bit of money. Serotonin posted:I cant really think of a Wargames Factory set that isnt to be honest. I'm in agreement here, the stuff I've seen is really lackluster in my opinion.
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Nov 13, 2011 23:47
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Amusingly a lot of my 20mil stuff has smaller heads than my 15mil stuff....moths posted:I think the proportions work better for fantasy or scifi where you are upscaling an ork or alien head to show detail. Mantic released a line of elves that had "realistically" proportioned heads, hands, and bodies. I understand that they flopped, with the general consensus that they look far too weedy and slender.
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Nov 14, 2011 02:26
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The best thing you can say about wargames factory is that their stuff is dirt cheap if you get it during one of their sales. I've got some of their celts, orcs, and saxons, all purchased at around 10 bucks a box. They've worked fine for making minis for use during Dungeons and Dragons, and I've converted a bunch into post-apocalyptic barbarians, but I would never, ever make an entire army out of them, if I wanted it to look halfway decent. edit: the worst part about their models is that you have to glue the weapons into the hands of a lot of their newer releases, and they never loving sit flush so it's all swords and bows and poo poo at awkward looking angles. long-ass nips Diane fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Nov 14, 2011 |
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Nov 14, 2011 03:01
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Thing is for Brits Wargames Factory is equalin price to Perry, Victrix and Gripping Beast plastics and tbh theres no contest in quality. WGF autocad all their work and never actually sculpt and I think it shows.
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Nov 14, 2011 20:38
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Serotonin posted:Thing is for Brits Wargames Factory is equalin price to Perry, Victrix and Gripping Beast plastics and tbh theres no contest in quality. WGF autocad all their work and never actually sculpt and I think it shows. Yes, they get these unnatural poses for arms and legs. Shows more in some kits than others, as in Romans hiding behind huge shields not being as obvious about it.
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Nov 14, 2011 22:19
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lilljonas posted:Aw crud, Wargames Factory finally have pics of their 28mm samurai, and let's just say that they are a bit lacking. Now, is there a chance that I will refuse to pick up a box just to see if they can be painted up decently? Probably not. I just hope their ashigaru will be better. The only way these would look good is if you painted them up to be metal samurai robots. Because these guys seriously have a robocop level of movement going for them.
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Nov 15, 2011 01:15
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I've picked up a few WGF kits that I keep meaning to use for conversions. (Eventually I'd love to make cheap plastic Necromunda gangs out of them.) Their problem is that WGF is married to the mid-90's GW scheme where the limbs, heads, and torsos all need to be attached at 90 degree angles like mannequins. In theory you have more options, but there's reality only two or three good ways to assemble them.
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Nov 15, 2011 01:54
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WIP pics of my 6mm 1815 campaign British. No grass on the bases yet and no banners, but the rest is finished. Line infantry:  Riflemen skirmishers:  Foot artillery:  Dragoons:  Hussars:  Current army line-up:  I have enough line infantry for roughly 8 more bases, and will end up with about twice as many cavalry bases as here. Everything is painted, I just need more bases to put them on. Overall I'm quite happy with the project, even though the period was one of my least favourite before starting. It took roughly a month of painting time to get most of it done, and it is enough to actually represent a small army in Lasalle. Even if I got this for free from a friend, it would have been very cheap for an army, £35, and there's plenty of stuff besides line infantry to add if I want more. Scots, allies, rockets, horse artillery... and an endless amount of line infantry, sure. It's Napoleonics.
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Nov 17, 2011 22:03
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The more I see the 6mm stuff, the more I want an army of the tiniest men. Very nice work there Lilljonas. On the opposite end of the spectrum; does anyone know a good supplier of 1:32/54mm colonial era (Zulu etc) British? Plastic or Resin would be preferable but I have a strange feeling I'm barking up the wrong tree.
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Nov 18, 2011 00:01
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No Pun Intended posted:The more I see the 6mm stuff, the more I want an army of the tiniest men. Very nice work there Lilljonas. http://www.acalltoarms.co.uk/132_2.html They have five kits in the series, two British and three Zulu, and they are dirt cheap: http://www.modelhobbies.co.uk/shop/call-arms-zulu-british-infantry-rorkes-drift-p-1427.html You can probably find it stateside if you live there. Slightly on the monopose toy side, but some guy painted them up ok: http://gunterpaintedfigures.weebly.com/other-conflicts.html
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Nov 18, 2011 06:15
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Finally got a game of Saga in and it owns owns owns. Went to Warfare on Sunday with a mate and got chatting to Darren the owner of Gripping Beast who when I said we still hadnt got a game in of Saga due to the delay on the game dice, set us up agame on their demo board and GM'd it for us. Seriously that poo poo owns. The core mechanics are really very simple, but the game comes alive in its two fairly novel (for historical games anyway) mechanics- the battleboards and fatigue. Fatigue is very simple- you gain fatigue if you activate a unit more than once in a turn, if you get into combat or if a freindly unit is wiped out within 4 inches of you. Get as many fatigue counters as there are men in your unit and you are exhausted and can do nothing but rest to reduce fatigue. Thats all very straight forward, but where the fatigue system comes in to its own is that it becomes currency for your opponent to spend. You can spend an opponents fatigue counters to reduce his move range, to decrease his defence rating or icrease your chance to hit, and obviously he can do that to you too. It works really well and makes for some good tactics. For example my opponents Warlord and retinue (on 1 fatigue counter) were stuck between a unit of my basic warriors and a small unit of my hearthguard. I steamed my basic warriors in, knowing they would probably take some losses, not win the fight, BUT most importantly cause another fatigue on my opponent. As soon as that fight was resolved I then charged with my Hearthguard, now taking advantage that my opponent had 2 fatigue counters and spent 1 counter to mean that I was now hitting him on a 3+ and not a 4+ and another to make his defence roll a 5+ and not a 4+, leading me to win the fight. Very clever little system. But theres more! The battleboards are the real meat of the system. Each turn, every unit you have generates a Saga dice and your warlord generates 2 (you can have a maximum of 6 dice in your pool a turn). You then roll these Saga dice, which are all themed to your army andhave special symbols. For example the Anglo Dane dice has a horse symbol which takes the place of a 1,2 or 3, a Axe symbol replacing the 4 and 5, and finally a helmet symbol instead of a 6. You then use the resulting roll to match up with parts of the battle board. The battleboard is split in two- on the left is a column for activations- 1 box for each troop type, and its where you can put ddice to activate your troops. The other part is 10 special abilities themed to your army list. These can cost all sorts of combos of Saga dice symbols and you sue them in your phase or your opponents as instants, and these give you all sorts of buffs. For example the Anglo Danes have one called Intimidation, and quite simply you burn the dice on that box to cancel an opponents activation. or the Vikings have one called Thor which allows you to immediately fight a second round of combat. Its the way you use these abilities in combos that is the real depth to the game. If you get a chance to play go for it, or better still buy it and make all your mates play!
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Nov 21, 2011 21:59
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I really got finish up this force for Saga (and then build another).
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Nov 22, 2011 02:10
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Thanks for the review! Saga sounds pretty boss, and I like gripping beast as a company; might have to put this on the wish list. Just one question though, how many models is the average warband/game played with?
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Nov 22, 2011 02:22
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