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Ah poo poo, you're right. Guess I'll have to go a different route to fix it. Thanks for the replies everyone.
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Sep 12, 2014 23:47
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My '06 Impreza wagon feels like there's very little clutch travel left, so I think it's getting close to time to replace it. I don't want to wait for it to start slipping, as it is my only car and not getting to work one day absolutely is not an option. So: A) What's a reasonable cost and labor estimate for this? B) it's only got 75k miles on it, but it IS eight years old; should the timing belt and tensioner be taken care of now too? C) Anything else while I'm throwing money at the thing? My sister is selling her manual Outback, same year but 106k miles. I'd be tempted to take it off her hands but my wife doesn't drive stick and an auto is the next purchase. Maybe a new 500 Abarth ...
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Sep 13, 2014 16:13
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Might be able to adjust the clutch travel and wait a year. My 2006 Saabaru 2.5i is on the original clutch at 188k
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Sep 13, 2014 16:52
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si posted:Huh? Thought I'd read somewhere that an H6 and a manual wouldn't fit. Oh well. Guess this is just another case of us not being able to have nice things in the US.
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Sep 13, 2014 18:58
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tetrapyloctomy posted:My '06 Impreza wagon feels like there's very little clutch travel left, so I think it's getting close to time to replace it. I don't want to wait for it to start slipping, as it is my only car and not getting to work one day absolutely is not an option. So: Are you sure it's the clutch and not your pedal assembly, fluid, whatnot? If you really feel the need to replace it now, a new oem clutch is around $165, and labor varies based on area(where are you located?). I would take a look at the flywheel condition and decide on if you should have it resurfaced or replaced, then take a look at your rear main seal while you're down there. That belt is probably past due, old, and brittle by now. Grab a gates timing belt kit and water pump and you should be good. Assuming you've been on top of your intervals, you should be all set.
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Sep 14, 2014 02:10
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si posted:Huh? The 5mt in my 2.5rs has held up okay with my ez30d. I don't launch it or anything though
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Sep 14, 2014 03:43
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I'm driving an '07 Forester Sports with the 5-speed manual and shifting into 4th and 5th is getting more difficult. It's almost as if I can feel some gear grinding going on even with the clutch fully depressed. 1st through 3rd don't seem to be an issue, but for some reason 4th and 5th will grind just ever so slightly. Is there some sort of adjustment that I can make to alleviate this? Or are there some bushings going wonky?
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Sep 14, 2014 04:20
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McSpatula posted:Are you sure it's the clutch and not your pedal assembly, fluid, whatnot? It's my suspicion, but I'm not 100% certain. Like I said, it's not slipping, but I definitely have a hell of a lot less travel left before it engages compared to when I bought it. It's time for routine checkup anyway and I was going to get an estimate (this is just outside of Philadelphia). I've been good about keeping up with the maintenance intervals, and I've been sticking to the more frequent checks given that it's all city driving. Thanks for the input -- I just figured that if they've got to go mucking about I might as well take care of other things at the same time.
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Sep 14, 2014 13:35
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Update: Got a new gear for the oil shaft and installed it and then I put on the new center diff. Then, I go and try to put back on the extension case, but I can't for the life of me get it all the way back on. So close yet so far.    
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Sep 14, 2014 23:24
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Put the diff on the transmission side, you have two sets of splines that have to align there. Then you can wiggle the rear output to get the transfer gears to slide into the diff.
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Sep 14, 2014 23:35
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jamal posted:Put the diff on the transmission side, you have two sets of splines that have to align there. Then you can wiggle the rear output to get the transfer gears to slide into the diff. Well that made it a lot easier. 
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Sep 15, 2014 00:38
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Just had a CEL come on today, P0102 and P0113 together. Popped the hood, saw that the plug for the MAF was hanging off, plugged that back in, also changed the air filter cuz it was filthy, still throwing the same codes. What's next? Changing out the MAF? This is a 2008 outback base model Casu Marzu fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Sep 15, 2014 |
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Sep 15, 2014 21:16
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boscoman posted:I'm driving an '07 Forester Sports with the 5-speed manual and shifting into 4th and 5th is getting more difficult. It's almost as if I can feel some gear grinding going on even with the clutch fully depressed. 1st through 3rd don't seem to be an issue, but for some reason 4th and 5th will grind just ever so slightly. Is there some sort of adjustment that I can make to alleviate this? Or are there some bushings going wonky? Apologies for the self quote, but I came across a "Transmission Cocktail" mix sold on Grimmspeed that purports to help with grinding for some people. Sounds like this could be snake-oil for people with manual transmissions or does this stuff really work?
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Sep 16, 2014 00:13
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boscoman posted:Apologies for the self quote, but I came across a "Transmission Cocktail" mix sold on Grimmspeed that purports to help with grinding for some people. Sounds like this could be snake-oil for people with manual transmissions or does this stuff really work? Do not do this. Long term use may gently caress up your poo poo. Run the recommended gear oil for your gearbox or if you are feeling fancy, order up some subaru extra S
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Sep 16, 2014 00:19
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Just ordered a 2015 Outback with the Eyesight system, which should be here in 6-12 weeks. It's replacing a bare-bones 2005 Forester which has been a wonderful ride, but kind of lacking in all the cool gadgets and extras which I can now afford. It's also really noisy on the highway. I've got a friend with an Eyesight-equipped Outback who says it's the greatest thing since regular cruise control, so I'm pretty excited. And bluetooth phone connection! And satellite radio! And built-in GPS! And a moonroof! And rear seats that adult humans can actually occupy! It'll be great.
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Sep 16, 2014 01:58
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I've used that mix before (Scotties cocktail I believe it was called) theoretically should be good for synchro's since there's a poo poo load of friction modifiers, but I'm kinda soured on it. Anecdotal and all that but had a trans grenade the transfer gears then shortly after that some of the bearings ate themselves up. Subaru extra s is supposed to be the best thing to throw in all the manual subie transmissions, it's what I've been throwing in to everything after trying the cocktail and I'm pretty happy with it.
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Sep 16, 2014 02:08
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Wingnut Ninja posted:Just ordered a 2015 Outback with the Eyesight system, which should be here in 6-12 weeks. It's replacing a bare-bones 2005 Forester which has been a wonderful ride, but kind of lacking in all the cool gadgets and extras which I can now afford. It's also really noisy on the highway. I've got a friend with an Eyesight-equipped Outback who says it's the greatest thing since regular cruise control, so I'm pretty excited. And bluetooth phone connection! And satellite radio! And built-in GPS! And a moonroof! And rear seats that adult humans can actually occupy! It'll be great. I'll be interested to hear what you think of Eyesight. The Subaru dealer is now trying to drum up some used cars so they have been emailing my wife trying to buy our 2013 Outback. The Subaru trade-up program price seems pretty low though. If they are willing to pay competitive I may be interested in the 3.6R in green (my wife loves that color now). On another note, I just traded in my 2013 WRX. We had a good run, few laughs, a hefty speeding fine, and 13k miles of smiles. I had been eyeing BMWs for a while and when a 135i popped up with all the options I wanted I had to see it. Then the dealer offered me what I paid for the WRX new as a trade in price and I couldn't say no to that. I left the sway bars on it, but took the intake, stereo, downpipe, and accessport. The license plate is up on the wall in line with all of its predecessors now. Aflicted fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Sep 16, 2014 |
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Sep 16, 2014 17:10
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Casu Marzu posted:Just had a CEL come on today, P0102 and P0113 together. Popped the hood, saw that the plug for the MAF was hanging off, plugged that back in, also changed the air filter cuz it was filthy, still throwing the same codes. What's next? Changing out the MAF? After the fixes, did you clear the codes and then the CEL came back on? If not, I believe it takes a few drive cycles before the light will go off if you fixed the problem.
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Sep 16, 2014 19:11
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What the gently caress just happened on my news feed... "it does have a bypass for idle but boost isn't a problem bc yes u did spot a supercharger. the main bypass is for when the turboi hit 14 psi it will then bypass the blower and then the blower will clutch out like a ac. the turbo doesn't boost through the blower . and the manifold is a one off custom manifold which is actually a water to air cooler for the blower. the two squares are the coolers on the side of the blower"
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Sep 17, 2014 00:22
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si posted:If you're overheating them at a race track, I would remove the dust/rock shields I'm going to take this piece of advice apart. You do this on the front, you can set your front ball joint rubbers on fire and yes I have done that with a stock car (ONE track day was all it took). Those stone guards are not just for rocks and poo poo, they are heat shields that protect some quite critical steering bits. You want to know why there seems to be ball joints that go dry? That's be grease being heated and drying out as a result and if you look, it'll more often than not be cars without the brake shield. Removing the heat shields is thence NOT the answer to hot brakes because of the unintended consequences. If someone feels that the shields are a problem, take to them with an angle grinder and keep the bits that protect the steering gear, but as a reminder, they also help air flow around the discs and from the rotor ducts so be intelligent about it. It's actually better to replace them with titanium that is also shaped to help duct air and also use titanium brake caliper shims and a small titanium wheel spacer (1-2mm) to slow heat soak to other areas like the hub and wheels. If the rules allow, also remove the fog light covers and run some cheap flexiduct, makes for a really good cold air pickup. A two piece rotor will also help along with the usual pads and fluids. Avoid DBA.
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Sep 17, 2014 01:18
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I installed an AEM intake on my '14 Wrx yesterday and I had a couple questions. I'm running Torqued Performances stage 1+AEM map off my cobb ap for starters. After installing I noticed my idle is a bit lower then it was with the stock box. It idles around 500-600rpms when the stock was around 700-800. Also while monitoring my a/f learning (just flashed so it needs more time to populate I'm guessing) it sits around -4.69 a lot, and occasionally goes as low as -5.12. I'm wondering if those symptoms would be indicative of a leak due to shoddy install. I'm going to recheck everything tonight after work but I was wondering if anyone else has run into something similar. Car drives fine besides the slightly rough idle.
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Sep 17, 2014 10:42
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Cat Terrist posted:I'm going to take this piece of advice apart. You do this on the front, you can set your front ball joint rubbers on fire and yes I have done that with a stock car (ONE track day was all it took). Those stone guards are not just for rocks and poo poo, they are heat shields that protect some quite critical steering bits. You want to know why there seems to be ball joints that go dry? That's be grease being heated and drying out as a result and if you look, it'll more often than not be cars without the brake shield. Removing the heat shields is thence NOT the answer to hot brakes because of the unintended consequences. Absolutely agree with this. I will remove rusty front dust shields that fall apart and hit the rotors on street cars that are transit appliances (did it this weekend), but on a race vehicle I keep them on. The backs I cut off on all my cars though.
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Sep 17, 2014 14:24
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How much more awesome are the Cobb V3 units over the older units? seems like it could be pretty nice having all that data available at your fingertips.
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Sep 17, 2014 16:51
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BraveUlysses posted:How much more awesome are the Cobb V3 units over the older units? seems like it could be pretty nice having all that data available at your fingertips. I have 0 experience with the older ones but I rather like the v3. I feel like having to change between watching what you monitor would be extremely tedious.
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Sep 17, 2014 17:07
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The wife says I have to sell as car. 1999 Subaru RS http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/4671685464.html Don't waste your time if you think this is the car for your 16 year old daughter who just got her license. You probably wanted the 2004 Forester in the other ad. This is the car for people who want to drift 90 degree corners at 20 MPH in the middle o [...]
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Sep 17, 2014 18:12
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BraveUlysses posted:How much more awesome are the Cobb V3 units over the older units? seems like it could be pretty nice having all that data available at your fingertips. As far as using it as a live gauge? The older units suffered from bad screen burn-in, and I have no idea if this is a possibility with the newer units. Functionality-wise, they're the same if you're just looking for their backend support, logging capabilities, etc. If you just want an obd2 gauge, grab a $10 bluetooth dongle and torque on a smartphone, or an ultragauge (one of the goons here enjoys it, but I forget who); save yourself the couple hundred dollarbux difference. daslog posted:The wife says I have to sell as car. Way to be on the wrong coast, and even then, I wish I had the extra garage space!
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Sep 17, 2014 21:14
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Cat Terrist posted:I'm going to take this piece of advice apart. You do this on the front, you can set your front ball joint rubbers on fire and yes I have done that with a stock car (ONE track day was all it took). Slow is Fast posted:Absolutely agree with this. I would think if you are racing hard enough to overheat your brakes, know enough to remove the stock stone shields, and are generating enough heat to set ball joint rubbers on fire, you're smart enough to protect them with some thermal tape. At racing speeds the stone shields aren't going to be effective ducts, they're just going to be something nearby to retain heat and limit air volume through the area. Protect your ball joints and tie rods with thermal coverings, remove the shields, and duct if you need to. Things you do to race are not always smart things to do on a street car, and vice versa. I'd much rather need to replace my ball joints every event than have my brakes fade going into a corner hot.
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Sep 17, 2014 21:16
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Splinter posted:After the fixes, did you clear the codes and then the CEL came back on? If not, I believe it takes a few drive cycles before the light will go off if you fixed the problem. Reset it, reseated the MAF plug again, looks like it's off for good.
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Sep 18, 2014 00:22
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BraveUlysses posted:How much more awesome are the Cobb V3 units over the older units? seems like it could be pretty nice having all that data available at your fingertips. The new units give you more screen to look at. After the most recent update they have a higher polling rate, at least on 08 to 14 cars. I went from ~3hz to 12hz, which put the AP on par with what you could get with the open source tools. They just updated the map files as well, but I'm not sure if that has any dependency on which AP version you have. This reminds me that I need to put my AP, DP, AEM on the classifieds thread too.
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Sep 18, 2014 17:09
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Aflicted posted:The new units give you more screen to look at. After the most recent update they have a higher polling rate, at least on 08 to 14 cars. I went from ~3hz to 12hz, which put the AP on par with what you could get with the open source tools. They just updated the map files as well, but I'm not sure if that has any dependency on which AP version you have. This reminds me that I need to put my AP, DP, AEM on the classifieds thread too. What about on the older cars? (I have an 02). I might be interested in what you have, send me a PM!
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Sep 18, 2014 17:51
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BraveUlysses posted:What about on the older cars? (I have an 02). On an 02 it shouldn't really matter, ECU is pretty slow too. Also I'm getting confused as hell seeing your name on two different forums.
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Sep 18, 2014 17:53
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BraveUlysses posted:What about on the older cars? (I have an 02). I don't have PMs, but what I have won't work for you I don't think. It is all off of a 2013. I'll put them up in an SA mart post later this evening so that it is all handled correctly and we can take the conversation there.
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Sep 18, 2014 18:19
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I got a brief CEL while accelerating on the merge ramp this morning. I checked the codes and its a P0304 / misfire on cyl4. I've noticed via the AP that I get more knocks on that cylinder than any of the others. Over the course of a long trip I may see 10-ish on any of the first 3 but 60 on cyl4. I've only ever run the base 91 ACN tune. Car seems to be running completely fine, and I've not noticed any oil consumption. Should I be worried? This is on a 2013 sti. Edit: Reading around I see that the ECU may pick up all kinds of noise that move the knock sum up. I do notice that I can move the knock sum up on that cylinder by just lightly reving the engine at idle, up to maybe 2500-ish. I read I should be looking at feedback knock if I want to see what is actually happening. Good advice? What exactly is "knock"? Actual piston noise from not getting the correct ignition in the cylinder? Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Sep 23, 2014 |
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Sep 23, 2014 20:53
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Isn't that the cylinder prone to underfueling or something? Someone I saw at a track day had some Cobb kit that supplied higher fuel pressure to that rail I think.
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Sep 23, 2014 21:01
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Linux Nazi posted:I got a brief CEL while accelerating on the merge ramp this morning. I never really kept track of the knock counter, or what cylinder it said it was coming from. My understanding is that the car cannot really accurately tell you which cylinder knocked because it does not have independent monitoring for each. The knock sensor is just a microphone listening for a specific frequency that is characteristic of an engine knocking. There is only one and it is at the back of the motor in the middle. Lots of things could trigger the knock sensor and to a certain extent lean conditions while cruising at low load are present as feedback knock. I saw this a fairly regularly under those conditions when I was running the Cobb tunes on my WRX. You see this because the ECU is trying to run on the edge of lean to provide fuel economy. The finer points of this get pretty deep into understanding how the tables in the map work together to calculate out values based on rpm, load, requested torque, etc... You do not want knock during high load which is one of the reasons lots of people run a 3rd gear pull to redline. I found the romraider forums to be far more helpful when reading up about all of this stuff than NASIOC. There is still good stuff on NASIOC, but the treasure must be searched hard for there. Check this thread over on romraider for a full explanation of Subaru's knock control strategy. http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1840.html Edit: Clarity Aflicted fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Sep 23, 2014 |
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Sep 23, 2014 21:43
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Linux Nazi posted:I got a brief CEL Post a log
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Sep 23, 2014 22:59
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Aflicted posted:I never really kept track of the knock counter, or what cylinder it said it was coming from. My understanding is that the car cannot really accurately tell you which cylinder knocked because it does not have independent monitoring for each. The knock sensor is just a microphone listening for a specific frequency that is characteristic of an engine knocking. There is only one and it is at the back of the motor in the middle. Lots of things could trigger the knock sensor and to a certain extent lean conditions while cruising at low load are present as feedback knock. I saw this a fairly regularly under those conditions when I was running the Cobb tunes on my WRX. You see this because the ECU is trying to run on the edge of lean to provide fuel economy. The finer points of this get pretty deep into understanding how the tables in the map work together to calculate out values based on rpm, load, requested torque, etc... You do not want knock during high load which is one of the reasons lots of people run a 3rd gear pull to redline. I found the romraider forums to be far more helpful when reading up about all of this stuff than NASIOC. There is still good stuff on NASIOC, but the treasure must be searched hard for there. Check this thread over on romraider for a full explanation of Subaru's knock control strategy. http://www.romraider.com/forum/topic1840.html Yeah I've read a few places on NASIOC where I should really be looking if I'm worried. They say that under WOT I should never see fine knock learning greater (well, lower) than -2.8. Very informative writeup btw, I'll need to make some time and read it when I get home. McSpatula posted:Post a log Good idea. I'll enable logging and see if I can recreate it.
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Sep 23, 2014 23:39
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BraveUlysses posted:What about on the older cars? (I have an 02). I posted the list of stuff I had to part out in SA Mart here http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3667436 I would like to keep the communication in that thread. I don't think any of what I will have, outside of the ASWC-1 will work for you as it is all for 08-14 cars.
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Sep 25, 2014 01:01
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An update for anyone who cares: I had the clutch serviced at a local shop, they do good service and I can walk there, but they are not the cheapest. Anyway, they put in a new clutch, flywheel, TOB and recommended a new rear main oil seal and something oil baffle related. Then they found the propeller shaft had bad U joints and replaced that. All told that cost "A lot of money" Edit: My mechanic was wrong. I just did some more research and took a good look and found that I do in fact have an uppipe with a temp sensor plugged in. So I guess I am back where I was when I started, but with a new clutch. Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 00:02 on Sep 26, 2014 |
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Sep 25, 2014 20:36
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Quick question: I have a 2008 Subaru Impreza 2.0R (non-turbo) and I need an oil change. Is there any specific oil or filter I should be using? Edit: I don't know if this matters, but I live in the desert. Winters are (very) mild and summers are hot as gently caress.
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Sep 26, 2014 17:18
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