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Fools Infinite posted:The fake background blur is pretty awful. Also the awful instagram colored filter. You probably can shoot that with any SLR/Mirrorless from last 5 years.
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Nov 24, 2019 00:00
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Are there any ~5 year old systems are worth looking at if I want to get a body plus a few primes for dipping my toe back into photography on a budget? Micro 4/3 or something else? Like many ~*photography dads*~ 95% of my photos will be of my kid or food where a decent P&S would suffice, but for the other 5% I'd like the flexibility of interchangeable lenses and RAW. Seems like mirrorless is a good fit for this use case? Plan B is to just keep our existing P&S and buy a ratty old Rebel from KEH, but I like the idea of having only one camera.
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Nov 25, 2019 02:04
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You can get a lot of micro four thirds kit for not too much money. Fuji is a great system, lots of cheap used bodies. Another option that comes to mind is a panasonic lx100, which has a m43 size sensor but is a compact. The lens has a standard zoom range, but is faster/more compact than equivalent m43 options.
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Nov 25, 2019 02:49
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Discussion Quorum posted:Are there any ~5 year old systems are worth looking at if I want to get a body plus a few primes for dipping my toe back into photography on a budget? Micro 4/3 or something else? Fuji XT-10. 35 and 50mm f2 Maybe cheaper but not better, an Olympus EM-10. They’re dead cheap as are the lenses.
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Nov 25, 2019 03:02
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Let me know if you decide on M43. If you’re interested, I need to get off my duff and sell this E-M10 mark iii and collection of lenses.
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Nov 25, 2019 03:13
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Local store had a demo day on Saturday, ended up picking up the new Tamron 24mm f2.8 for Sony. This is nice (cheap) little lens, has a really short minimum focus distance. Really like the size/weight and it fills a nice spot next to the 28-75. Profoto was there in full force offering "discounts" on their $1700 B10 flashes ... you could get $500 in light modifiers free! $500 umbrella.
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Nov 25, 2019 15:59
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I have some money to spend on a new camera thanks to an insurance claim on stolen gear. I currently have a Nikon D300s with an 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 lens. I'm looking at getting something that I can use as a multi-use camera. Something that I can use to take decent photos, but also something that I can throw a pancake lens on and use as a walk around camera. Something that I can shoot in RAW, but also something that I can quickly upload to my phone for sharing. So after doing some research, I decided on the Fujifilm X-T30. A local retailer has the X-T30 available with the XC 15-45mm 3.5-5.6 OIS PZ lens or I can get the XF 18-55 2.8-4.0 R lens for $325 CAD more. Am I correct in thinking this upgrade is definitely worth the $325? I would also like to get a pancake lens, but I don't want to spend a bunch on one right now. Are there any good inexpensive pancake lenses available for the X-T30 right now?
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Nov 25, 2019 22:38
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I love my Fuji but the state of their mobile app is pretty dire, I can only get it to connect around 25% of the time and even then it’s super slow and janky. I honestly can’t count on it any more and I’m thinking about buying a SD card adapter which is stupid.
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Nov 25, 2019 22:57
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Koth posted:I have some money to spend on a new camera thanks to an insurance claim on stolen gear. I currently have a Nikon D300s with an 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 lens. I'm looking at getting something that I can use as a multi-use camera. Something that I can use to take decent photos, but also something that I can throw a pancake lens on and use as a walk around camera. Something that I can shoot in RAW, but also something that I can quickly upload to my phone for sharing. You absolutely want either the 18-55. Though one thing to think about is some places sell the fuji bodies with one of the weather sealed f2.0 primes, which are all really good. They're not exactly pancakes, but they're definitely small enough to be good walk-around lenses. Pick the one that best matches what you like to shoot. For true pancake lenses, Fuji just has the one real one: 27mm f/2.8. It's very cheap, especially if you go used.
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Nov 25, 2019 23:00
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qirex posted:I love my Fuji but the state of their mobile app is pretty dire, I can only get it to connect around 25% of the time and even then it’s super slow and janky. I honestly can’t count on it any more and I’m thinking about buying a SD card adapter which is stupid. Do you connect through Bluetooth or WiFi?
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Nov 25, 2019 23:14
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Koth posted:So after doing some research, I decided on the Fujifilm X-T30. A local retailer has the X-T30 available with the XC 15-45mm 3.5-5.6 OIS PZ lens or I can get the XF 18-55 2.8-4.0 R lens for $325 CAD more. Am I correct in thinking this upgrade is definitely worth the $325? I know you can pick up a nice used 18-55/2.8-4 for like $300 USD all day long, so consider that. The XC 15-45 is a solid pick in that it's very good optically (especially at the wide end of the range) and is very lightweight.
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Nov 25, 2019 23:46
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Koth posted:Do you connect through Bluetooth or WiFi? My x100f is WiFi only. My understanding is it doesn’t transfer files over Bluetooth anyway.
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Nov 26, 2019 00:22
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Koth posted:I have some money to spend on a new camera thanks to an insurance claim on stolen gear. I currently have a Nikon D300s with an 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 lens. I'm looking at getting something that I can use as a multi-use camera. Something that I can use to take decent photos, but also something that I can throw a pancake lens on and use as a walk around camera. Something that I can shoot in RAW, but also something that I can quickly upload to my phone for sharing. I just recently picked up the X-T30 and 18-55 2.8-4 combo and have been super impressed with it's sharpness. I don't have the 15-45 to compare against but the 18-55 is very solid. It isn't a tiny lens as compared to the XT-30, but I just picked up a used 27mm off these very forums for when I want something pocketable. My experience with the wi-fi hasn't been too bad.. It's not fast but it accomplishes my goal of being able to upload pics without necessarily having to download to my desktop or dick around in post. Still shoot raw and jpeg though.. old habits.
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Nov 26, 2019 01:12
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mAlfunkti0n posted:Profoto was there in full force offering "discounts" on their $1700 B10 flashes ... you could get $500 in light modifiers free! $500 umbrella. Yeah, it's amazing what some companies will price their modifiers at. Like I'll buy Wescott umbrellas with no thought as they are well priced and are actually built well for their price point. That does not hold true for any of their other products. I really have no idea how these companies can sell these the way they do since we've got companies like Interfit, Phottix, and Godox. I mean most people aren't going to give two shits about what name is on them.
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Nov 26, 2019 05:30
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If I wanted to get my gf a M43 portrait lens for Christmas (she only has the kit zoom at the moment) would the M.Zuiko 45mm F1.8 be a good choice? Anything else I should consider (e.g. a non-ugly camera bag)?
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Nov 27, 2019 17:08
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Did our family Christmas cards yesterday and it was a Frankenstein mess. Two strobes, but neither had a hot shoe attachment on the light poles so I couldn't use wireless triggers. Instead it was one strobe connected via sync cable to my X-H1 and the X-H1 with a speedlight pointed at another strobe that triggered with the light. I had to use my manual focus 12mm to get the whole scene, but that meant enabling the shoot without a lens mode. I was using the Fuji remote app so I could be in the shot or move around while posing the 2 year old nephew wearing a Buddy Elf hat and playing in maple syrup covered spaghetti. But if you're using that app it blacks out your viewfinder and camera LCD. Try to preview your images on the app and it kicks you into bulk download mode and won't let you back into shooting mode unless you kill the app and start over. That means shooting blind more or less. I focused in advance and hoped for the best. I missed focus by just a hair on about half the shots. It's not noticeable on small LCD screens and I might be able to sharpen things a little in post. It probably won't show up on card stock, but still. gently caress me. 
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Nov 27, 2019 17:59
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pointsofdata posted:If I wanted to get my gf a M43 portrait lens for Christmas (she only has the kit zoom at the moment) would the M.Zuiko 45mm F1.8 be a good choice? Anything else I should consider (e.g. a non-ugly camera bag)? Is the Olympus M.Zuiko 45mm f/1.2 PRO in your budget? Because that's the boss. If not, the 1.8 is still a pretty good lens.
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Nov 27, 2019 18:15
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The olympus 45mm 1.8 is a good choice. The olympus 45mm 1.2 is probably overkill, especially if she wanted a compact camera system. There is a panasonic 42.5mm 1.7 but it is more expensive and doesn't really justify the extra cost. The other options are the olympus 75mm or sigma 56mm, which are both very good but much larger and more expensive lenses. An older fast 50mm adapted film lens makes a good portrait lens, but maybe not a great gift for someone who isn't already into manual focus lenses.
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Nov 27, 2019 18:28
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pointsofdata posted:If I wanted to get my gf a M43 portrait lens for Christmas (she only has the kit zoom at the moment) would the M.Zuiko 45mm F1.8 be a good choice? Anything else I should consider (e.g. a non-ugly camera bag)? Already mentioned 45mm f/1.8 and f/1.2 are both amazing in their own way, 75mm f/1.8 is priced between those two and is also hot. E: beaten!
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Nov 27, 2019 18:33
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pointsofdata posted:If I wanted to get my gf a M43 portrait lens for Christmas (she only has the kit zoom at the moment) would the M.Zuiko 45mm F1.8 be a good choice? Anything else I should consider (e.g. a non-ugly camera bag)? Yes. It’s great, cheap and tiny.
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Nov 27, 2019 21:07
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If you have a Panasonic body I'd get the 42.5 for dual IS. Both are great lenses for the price.
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Nov 28, 2019 05:25
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GEMorris posted:If you have a Panasonic body I'd get the 42.5 for dual IS. Both are great lenses for the price. It's an Olympus body so I do t think she'd benefit. Thanks all!
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Nov 28, 2019 07:58
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qirex posted:I love my Fuji but the state of their mobile app is pretty dire, I can only get it to connect around 25% of the time and even then it’s super slow and janky. I honestly can’t count on it any more and I’m thinking about buying a SD card adapter which is stupid. It’s trash, it’s just for updating firmware at this point. Mine has to connect with both Bluetooth AND WiFi before it will allow me to interact with the camera. It’s janky and randomly disconnects, and the UI is like they didn’t consult any actual photographers. All I want is to be able to mark photos as I shoot and have only those photos transfer to my phone.
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Nov 28, 2019 08:19
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Krispy Wafer posted:gently caress me. The worst part is that your whole family will think that it’s fantastic
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Nov 28, 2019 17:07
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Easychair Bootson posted:The worst part is that your whole family will think that it’s fantastic That's the best part. They don't know any better. And thanks sis. I went out of my way to find a Buddy Elf cap and you went out of your way to dress the kid in the most un-Christmassy t-shirt imaginable. Fortunately that was the worst for focus. I managed to salvage 6 good shots. I need to figure out how to hook a laptop up to this camera. It was always a terrible hassle with my Nikon so I haven't tried it yet with a Fuji.
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Nov 28, 2019 18:35
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Why don’t you just go up a stop or use the AF then switch into MF after the camera locks?
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Nov 28, 2019 20:07
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Krispy Wafer posted:Did our family Christmas cards yesterday and it was a Frankenstein mess. Two strobes, but neither had a hot shoe attachment on the light poles so I couldn't use wireless triggers. Instead it was one strobe connected via sync cable to my X-H1 and the X-H1 with a speedlight pointed at another strobe that triggered with the light. I had to use my manual focus 12mm to get the whole scene, but that meant enabling the shoot without a lens mode. I was using the Fuji remote app so I could be in the shot or move around while posing the 2 year old nephew wearing a Buddy Elf hat and playing in maple syrup covered spaghetti. But if you're using that app it blacks out your viewfinder and camera LCD. Try to preview your images on the app and it kicks you into bulk download mode and won't let you back into shooting mode unless you kill the app and start over. That means shooting blind more or less. I focused in advance and hoped for the best. Try the demo of topaz ai sharpening
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Nov 28, 2019 20:09
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holocaust bloopers posted:Why don’t you just go up a stop or use the AF then switch into MF after the camera locks? I should have done several things differently, but trying to set up lighting with a 2 year old running back and forth over my power cables made prep work difficult. I'm used to natural light so I open my aperture up by habit. I had this at f5 I think. Since I had strobes I should have used a higher f-stop and given myself a beefier depth of field. It was an excuse to dust off my cheapo strobes so I wasn't unhappy with the results. That Fuji app though is truly a piece of poo poo. jarlywarly posted:Try the demo of topaz ai sharpening I'll check it out. EDIT: I checked it out. It seems to work well. There's a fine line between correcting a bit of focus and slicing your eyeballs and I'm not sure I've figured it out yet. The auto mode suggested a Remove Blur of .11 and I decided on .25. 
Krispy Wafer fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Nov 28, 2019 |
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Nov 28, 2019 20:16
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If I was looking at a Canon M6 and was interested in doing video (1080 YouTube stuff) but needed to have audio monitoring via headphones, am I completely SoL due to the lack of a headphone jack in the camera body, or are there hotshoe mics that also provide a headphone jack?
SMERSH Mouth fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Dec 1, 2019 |
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Dec 1, 2019 02:18
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I’ve been using a few Canon lenses on my a7ii with the Commlite EF-NEX adapter. The one I use the most—the 50mm f/1.8 STM—actually works quite well. Autofocus seems fast and accurate. Just picked up a 24-105 f/4 and it doesn’t work well at all with the Commlite though. Autofocus is slow as balls, and that’s when I’m lucky and it doesn’t just hunt all over the place. I’ve got a Sigma MC-11 on the way now and I really hope it improves the L lens’ performance on my Sony. My main film body is an EOS A2e, and it’d be ideal if I could continue share lenses between the two (plus high end E mount zooms are insanely expensive). Being a cheapskate hobbyist yields yet another challenge...
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Dec 1, 2019 02:52
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Sigma mc11 is the way to go.
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Dec 1, 2019 03:28
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Uh, anybody fancy a Fuji 16-55 f/2.8 for half price? Jump on this right now. Fujinon XF16-55mm F2.8 Weather Resistant Lens https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SDC5LU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0Ty5Db8MBQDYV
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Dec 2, 2019 23:10
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Hello Spaceman posted:Uh, anybody fancy a Fuji 16-55 f/2.8 for half price? Jump on this right now. No dice on this side of the pond. 
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Dec 2, 2019 23:40
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Verman posted:Sigma mc11 is the way to go. Arrived today. The AF on my 24-105 is waaaaay better now. Faster with less hunting. Good poo poo.
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Dec 3, 2019 01:27
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I'm looking to upgrade from an X-T1 to either an X-H1, X-T2 or X-T3. Essentially deciding between the X-H1 (for IBIS and lower price) and X-T3 (mainly for better AF). I'd only go X-T2 if I'm not a fan of the increased size/weight of the X-H1. One of the main drivers behind this upgrade is improving AF performance, especially AF-C. The X-T1 w/ 55-200 just hasn't been that reliable n AF-C mode, in my experience. From what I gather, the H1/T2 are a significant upgrade in this regard, due to the increased coverage of phase detection points (~54% coverage vs ~18% coverage on the T1), faster processor and additional AF-C modes/settings. The T3 is obviously even better, with 99% PD coverage and an even faster processor, but my hope and assumption is that the improvement of the H1/T2 will be good enough for my needs. I primarily do landscape/travel shooting, so the AF-C performance didn't bother me too much for the rare occasions where do some sports/wildlife shooting, but getting a dog has finally driven me to upgrade. Assuming the AF improvements on a H1/T2 are substantial, I'm finding it hard to say no to the H1 with IBIS at current prices. Having the option of using primes and the 16-55 with stabilization is quite appealing. Other main improvements from the newer bodies that have me excited are the improved sensor (X trans 2 -> 3 looks significant, 3 -> 4 seems pretty minor) and being able to do up to 15 minute exposures in T mode (as opposed to 30 seconds on the X-T1). I never really shoot video, so while the video improvements of the X-T3 over the H1/T2 look nice, they aren't really a selling point for me (but maybe the reason I never shoot video is that video sucks on the X-T1...). The H1/T3 also have a higher resolution EVF (with slightly lower magnification) than the T1/T2, but from what I've read it's not really that big of a difference in practice. Anything else I'm missing that might sway me one way or the other? Anyone have any thoughts on the X-H1 vs X-T3? Also, anyone have experience using both the H1 and a T series camera? How big of a change does the slightly increased sized and increased weight (50% over an X-T1) make to compactness of your kit? I have this fear that it'll lead to a larger bag and likely a sturdier (larger/heavier) tripod, and then all of the sudden I've lost a lot of the compactness that I love about my current setup. Part of that stems from the fact that an X-H1 would make buying a 16-55 incredibly tempting, and that's a standard zoom setup that is essentially back to DSLR size/weight (which is more due to the 16-55 than the X-H1).
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Dec 3, 2019 02:09
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The H1 is a beefier T2 with IBIS, I think of it as a mid-step before the T3. IIRC it was supposed to be a video-leaning, improved T2. If you’re not doing a ton of video work the T2 is essentially the same camera but slimmer. If the bare camera grip is weird for you the vertical grip adds a bit more to grab onto. You’ll notice a big difference in upgrading from the T1 to the H1/T2, and a massive difference going to the T3. Since compactness is your concern, I’d say go for the T2 or T3. It’s like night and day going from full size Nikon kit to all Fuji. The bodies are half the size, as are the lenses; my 50-140 Fuji is barely the size of a pounder beer can. And thus my entire kit is half the size, I don’t need to drag around a pelican case of gear anymore. If you want to see an almost exact comparison between the T2 and T3, I have some work photos saved somewhere. red19fire fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 03:06
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red19fire posted:
Is there really that big of a difference? Actually, just lie to me so I don't needlessly upgrade from my X-T1.
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Dec 3, 2019 06:59
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The difference from 1 to 2 is way bigger than 2 to 3 imo. I’ve ended up “downgrading” from a T3 to an H1 because I tried one and the IBIS was awesome. YMMV.
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Dec 3, 2019 07:53
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red19fire posted:Since compactness is your concern, I’d say go for the T2 or T3. It’s like night and day going from full size Nikon kit to all Fuji. The bodies are half the size, as are the lenses; my 50-140 Fuji is barely the size of a pounder beer can. And thus my entire kit is half the size, I don’t need to drag around a pelican case of gear anymore. red19fire posted:You’ll notice a big difference in upgrading from the T1 to the H1/T2, and a massive difference going to the T3. Digital Jesus posted:The difference from 1 to 2 is way bigger than 2 to 3 imo. I’ve ended up “downgrading” from a T3 to an H1 because I tried one and the IBIS was awesome. YMMV. This is what I suspected. Think I'll go with either the T2 or H1 now and see how it goes and add the money saved to the lens fund. Unfortunately there's not a camera store in my area that stocks Fuji gear, so I can't try out the H1 before buying, but with the number of people I've seen raving out the IBIS, I 'm leaning toward just going for it. I can always just sell it and grab an X-T2 if I end up not liking the form factor.
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Dec 3, 2019 20:10
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IBIS is just something that comes with every camera </m43>
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Dec 3, 2019 21:02
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