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b0jangles posted:Good to know. When I start up the engine tomorrow morning after sitting out all night, I'll see if it happens with AC off. Hadn't been paying attention to that, didn't think they were related at all. I have a '12 Impreza, which is the same engine, but I have the 5 speed. The air conditioner cycles on and off.
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Oct 2, 2014 21:23
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b0jangles posted:Experiencing a weird issue with my '14 XV Crosstrek. I have Gas/CVT. 7.4k Miles. #1 is probably due to the way a CVT works. It's just something you have to get used to. #2 Sounds like AC is cycling on and off. #3 same as #1
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Oct 2, 2014 22:53
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Also, cars will constantly try for a lower idle RPM. They'll drop and drop while sitting there until they knock, then they'll raise it a not. As temperature changes, they'll continuously try.
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Oct 2, 2014 23:18
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daslog posted:#1 is probably due to the way a CVT works. It's just something you have to get used to. Hey all, Thanks for the advice/responses. I've confirmed it's definitely the AC compressor cycling with #2. I think #1 and #3 are as you all said...just how the CVT works. I had my boss drive it (who also has a CVT subie) and he didn't recognize anything unusual either. I'll have my dealership take a look when I'm there for my next oil change, but it all seems good.
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Oct 2, 2014 23:54
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My CVT Altima does the same thing when shifting from reverse to drive. It seems more pronounced when the engine is cold. It's probably just how CVTs work.
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Oct 3, 2014 00:29
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The WRX hatch I purchased in February is just shy of hitting 12k miles, so I figured it was finally time to order an AP with turboback exhaust. Once it gets here I'll need to find a good shop in the bay area to dyno tune, since I have little faith in generic maps. Anyone have suggestions on tuners?
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Oct 3, 2014 03:23
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Ed at Equilibrium and Mike at GST motorsports are both solid, good guys. GST's a little closer to the bay, but gets pretty slammed right around now.
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Oct 3, 2014 04:15
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Mike is a cool dude and knows what he's doing. Might have got a discount buying the ap and a tune from him at the same time btw.
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Oct 3, 2014 04:19
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Also at least from any 12 onwards manual or cvt they will rev higher in neutral until the engine heats up and then back off when the blue light goes off.
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Oct 3, 2014 07:28
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My 05 does that on cold mornings. I don't have a blue engine light though.
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Oct 3, 2014 08:04
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Totally TWISTED posted:Also at least from any 12 onwards manual or cvt they will rev higher in neutral until the engine heats up and then back off when the blue light goes off. PZEV is great. In the summer you'll start off revving around 1400, but in the winter you'll be well over 2000. Blue light is around 120 F I believe.
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Oct 3, 2014 12:01
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joe944 posted:The WRX hatch I purchased in February is just shy of hitting 12k miles, so I figured it was finally time to order an AP with turboback exhaust. Once it gets here I'll need to find a good shop in the bay area to dyno tune, since I have little faith in generic maps. Anyone have suggestions on tuners? My AP and DP are for sale in the classifieds as well. If you haven't bought them yet, you can find the thread and we can talk about it there. You are about to have a really fun time regardless.
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Oct 3, 2014 13:37
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Thank xenu I was near a Napa when this happened  ended up hacking this together to get home:  OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Oct 4, 2014 |
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Oct 4, 2014 04:51
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My brakes on my STi have been squeeking like crazy for the last month, and getting worse. So I ordered some stoptechs figuring after 20k miles and liberal use of the brake pedal, the OEM pads may need replacement. 20k miles isn't a lot, but the noise... I just got done swapping them out, and the OEM pads still had nearly half their life left.  Are the OEM pads really this loud or is there some other cause? The new pads are whisper quiet, of course. Also: When just swapping pads, should I bother bleeding the line? The pedal feels fine, but I only drove it around enough to break them in per the manuals instructions. I never bothered on my WRX or Civic. edit: Also this is my first time swapping pads on a Brembo, amazingly simple. Blame Pyrrhus fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Oct 4, 2014 |
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Oct 4, 2014 04:59
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You only need to bleed if you opened up the hydraulic system ( i.e. brake lines, master cylinder etc). Swapping pads should not introduce air into the system so you should be OK.
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Oct 4, 2014 14:54
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McSpatula posted:Ed at Equilibrium and Mike at GST motorsports are both solid, good guys. I think I'll be giving GST a call on Monday to see when I can get in there. Edit: Managed to get an appointment for tomorrow, lucked out. Aflicted posted:My AP and DP are for sale in the classifieds as well. If you haven't bought them yet, you can find the thread and we can talk about it there. You are about to have a really fun time regardless. Yeah I purchased everything from rallysportdirect, they ship quickly to me and no tax is quite nice. Should be here on Monday. My buddy had a 2010 wrx that he had stage 2 but only with a generic tune, and it was pretty quick. Curious to see how much better a real tune will be. He has a stock 2013 now so I'm sure he'll be wanting to upgrade after he sees my car.  I'll send him your way if so.
joe944 fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Oct 7, 2014 |
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Oct 4, 2014 17:40
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Timmy Cruise posted:You only need to bleed if you opened up the hydraulic system ( i.e. brake lines, master cylinder etc). Swapping pads should not introduce air into the system so you should be OK. However, do keep an eye on the level and make sure it doesn't overflow when you push the pistons in.
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Oct 4, 2014 17:48
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I've got a clicking coming from one of my right-side vents. I think it's the right center console one, but I haven't moved around in the car enough to be sure. I assume it's the fan, how much of a pain in the rear end is it to get in there? edit: If it matters, '99 OBS.
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Oct 5, 2014 21:18
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Not too hard to get at, and the part is cheap too on RockAuto (it's a VDO part shared with its contemporary Sentra). You can pull it right out from the bottom without even having to remove the glovebox on the older cars. Just have a peer up there. Mine ticked for nearly 2 years and didn't die, so chances are if you pull it and remove whatever foreign object is stuck in it, the clicking will stop. They're tough bastards.
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Oct 5, 2014 22:26
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Lowered the tire pressure set by the previous owner and it's fixed almost all of the horrible shudder/chatter I was getting when moving from a stop. Tires were 8lbs too high in the rear and 6 in the front. Thanks PO, you're a dumbfuck! Now to start diagnosing my air conditioning that doesn't work...
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Oct 6, 2014 16:03
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Two questions for the '15 WRX owners (well, or anyone that knows): 1. Does the 2015 manual WRX have SI Drive and if so where? Google is failing me and while I know the CVT has it, I think maybe the manual doesn't? Or at least I don't see that stupid center console knob  2. Where is the best place to lurk and watch people modding their 2015s? I can't seem to figure out which forum everyone is going to...
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Oct 7, 2014 05:14
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Mat_Drinks posted:Two questions for the '15 WRX owners (well, or anyone that knows): 2: Everyone is going to nasioc but it's a cesspool of misinformation.
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Oct 7, 2014 10:00
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VelociBacon posted:2: Everyone is going to nasioc but it's a cesspool of misinformation. Its mostly bad wiring, JDM LEDs, and interior vinyl wrap.
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Oct 7, 2014 11:54
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Mat_Drinks posted:Two questions for the '15 WRX owners (well, or anyone that knows): 1. 6spd doesn't have it, unfortunately.
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Oct 7, 2014 12:10
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Mat_Drinks posted:Two questions for the '15 WRX owners (well, or anyone that knows): There is a NASIOC 2015 modding thread.
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Oct 7, 2014 16:48
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What kind of modding? Chassis-wise the car is very similar to the old model. Engine is different but some of the same things are still popular like an exhaust, intake, and tune. Only with this car there's no up-pipe because the turbo sits right on the exhaust manifold in front of the oil pan. Not sure what is available for them (downpipes and exhausts are), or what is compatible between the LGT that already exists.
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Oct 7, 2014 22:09
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the 2015 is starting to see j pipes/down pipes + tunes. Turn in concepts was showing off TGV deletes the other day.
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Oct 8, 2014 00:48
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I've noticed since I put the new wheels on, there's a clicking coming from the passenger front side when I take off. I thought it might have been the glue on weights they used to balance the wheel, but they don't feel like they could be causing an issue when I try move them. My friend said bushings, which could make sense I guess, the car's 10 years old in a few months, but would worn bushings make a clicking like that? If it is bushings, I can just get a Jamal approved kit and press them in with a vice right? E: And what would you guys recommend I buy to replace worn wheel bearings because I'm fairly sure they are gone too, unless the wheel bearings are causing the clicking? How big a job is it to replace those myself? My last exam is on the 20th of November, I want to go away on the 24th, could I reasonably do it in those 4 days on top of packing for a week camping trip? It's done nearly ~190kms/120k miles underage at the vape shop fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Oct 8, 2014 |
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Oct 8, 2014 02:50
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BoyBlunder posted:1. 6spd doesn't have it, unfortunately. I actually like that. I found it to be super annoying in my 08 STI, so I'm happy that I won't have to deal with pressing a button when I want full power. Fingers McGee posted:There is a NASIOC 2015 modding thread.  
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Oct 8, 2014 04:58
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joe944 posted:I think I'll be giving GST a call on Monday to see when I can get in there. Well my luck only ran so far, as I have to return to GST tonight after a database glitch with the dyno, so I'm running the OTS map until then. Pretty happy with the setup so far though, and I appreciate the recommendation, they are a nice bunch of people to do business with. Can't wait to drive it with a real tune. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EklSJ04VpbI
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Oct 8, 2014 20:32
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The wart-car is dead  Long live the new old old subie. First one and I'm digging it. 
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Oct 9, 2014 00:15
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Brake question! On the rally car, being 5x114.3 hub and using 4/2 pots, I have to use custom rotors on the front (DBA, say). For rears, I thought I've heard about turning down stock brembo rears - is this possible? Also, coincidentally, is there a rebuild kit for rear 2-pots that include pistons? My brake pads might've escaped and the pistons might've been braking directly on the rotor. Maybe. Running without a tire is rough on a car. 
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Oct 10, 2014 05:49
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No the brembo rotor is wider and I don't know how well turning it down would work. In addition to the dba parts there is also an OEM rotor that works, but it's a group N part, so probably more expensive. Rebuild kit only comes with seals, but I'm pretty sure you can order the pistons on their own too. Possibly from stoptech/centric too. I'll look up some things.
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Oct 10, 2014 06:02
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So DBA it is. I'm looking at about $500 for all four corners for DBA, so not bad. Also the knuckle sheared at the trailing arm mount, so I need to replace that which brings me to another question. My drivetrain setup is from an 06 STi with a 3.54(?) rear R180. My buddy is selling an entire 02 JDM STi rear setup for $500. R180 (3.9), axles, knuckles and hubs. A) I know the R180 wont work, but will the axles work? B) Can I swap out the knuckles and change out the hubs?
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Oct 10, 2014 06:10
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Yeah as long as it's from an R180 car the axles and uprights will work, regardless of the bolt pattern.
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Oct 10, 2014 06:42
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And I can put my 5x114 hub onto it?
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Oct 10, 2014 17:58
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Yes. The rear r180 5x100 bearings are the same as 5x114. The fronts are bolt pattern specific though.
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Oct 10, 2014 18:01
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jamal posted:Yes. The rear r180 5x100 bearings are the same as 5x114. The fronts are bolt pattern specific though. Ok awesome - so it looks like other than the hubs and actual R180, the rest can be used as spares. That's good news. I wonder how hard it would be to change my 1:1.1 to a 1:1 so I can use 3.9 R180's..
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Oct 10, 2014 18:26
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I think you would just need the transfer gears from whatever 6-speed car has them. With the tailhousing off they slide right out. The extra rear bias might be a nice thing though.
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Oct 10, 2014 18:35
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My 2007 STI needs front (and possibly rear) brake pads. The Stoptech Street Performance line seem to get good reviews and are cheap on Amazon - how are they? My usage is daily driving about 1,000 miles of back roads a month plus the odd autocross.
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Oct 12, 2014 20:27
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