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Midorka posted:Cause then that requires a lot more effort. Mashing is my biggest time sink so it would personally be slightly less, over all at least. If the boils are the sticking point I remember someone in the thread canning wort so with the typical brewer set up you are a case of mason jars away from time shifted boiling of small batches from a normal sized mash.
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May 13, 2014 13:16
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I've got a lot of amarillo sitting around and I'm burned out on amarillo-heavy pale ales. Suggestions?
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May 13, 2014 14:02
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fullroundaction posted:I've got a lot of amarillo sitting around and I'm burned out on amarillo-heavy pale ales. Suggestions? Do a clone of Gumballhead! Or an Amarillo saison.
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May 13, 2014 14:43
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Brewed my amber today starting around 3. Double crushed my grains this time so i wasn't boiling til 7. Gravity and other info to come tomorrow some time. Amber Ale (BIAB) update: Starting Gravity was 1.062 and the abysmal efficiency continues (57%). I did a double crush AND a 90 minute mash this time, and there was literally no change from the single crush 60 minute mash. I'm starting to wonder if my water PH may be in issue or something? However I planned for about 60% and should get myself a nice 6% Amber at the end of it.
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May 13, 2014 15:10
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zedprime posted:Mashing is my biggest time sink so it would personally be slightly less, over all at least. If the boils are the sticking point I remember someone in the thread canning wort so with the typical brewer set up you are a case of mason jars away from time shifted boiling of small batches from a normal sized mash. That's an interesting idea. I make 10 gallons of wort and store them in a container. I assume that it would have to be 100% airtight to keep it usable though?
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May 13, 2014 15:26
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Do they make 1+ Gallon Mason Jars for pickling/ canning?
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May 13, 2014 15:32
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Midorka posted:Do a clone of Gumballhead! Or an Amarillo saison. I've never had Gumballhead, but I like the idea. Probably just stick with our house standard 50/50 2-row/white wheat and hop burst the poo poo out of it? Saison is a definite, especially now that my ground water is heating up. I've got 1 on tap and 1 in the swamp, and this 4th generation 3711 is turning out finished beers before I can clean my kettle.
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May 13, 2014 15:39
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So I now have a pound of citra, a pound of sorachi ace, and a pound of liberty. All of which I have never used in a beer. I also have 3lbs of cascade. Suggestions? I obviously need to do some IPAs and pale ales, but what else? What are some good hop pairings to go with the ones I've never used.
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May 13, 2014 15:47
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fullroundaction posted:I've never had Gumballhead, but I like the idea. Probably just stick with our house standard 50/50 2-row/white wheat and hop burst the poo poo out of it? The recipe is here. I brewed this with Galaxy instead and it came out lovely. Daedalus Esquire posted:So I now have a pound of citra, a pound of sorachi ace, and a pound of liberty. All of which I have never used in a beer. I also have 3lbs of cascade. Single hop pales! Sorachi Ace goes well with saisons also.
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May 13, 2014 15:48
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Midorka posted:Single hop pales! Sorachi Ace goes well with saisons also. I haven't brewed in about 1.5 months  But my next, hopefully next week, is going to be a super simple saison + sorachi ace! I figure that will be a nice 'start of the warm weather' beer.
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May 13, 2014 15:55
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ChiTownEddie posted:I haven't brewed in about 1.5 months I did a 4.5% saison with some oats, red winter wheat and Sorachi Ace. I highly recommend trying something similar!
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May 13, 2014 16:00
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I want to do a Baltic Porter next, but Dang it, that will be early JUNE! Might end up doing some Belgian style IPAs because I hate a lot of the commercial ones around here.
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May 13, 2014 16:13
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Midorka posted:That's an interesting idea. I make 10 gallons of wort and store them in a container. I assume that it would have to be 100% airtight to keep it usable though? Yeah, hence the canning method where you boil the contents to fill the vapor space with water vapor and pull a vacuum seal with a collapsible metal lid by condensing the water vapor. I think last time this came up someone mentioned a food saver jar attachment works alright too in a sanitized jar but I'd be worried about not sterilizing. I guess any way you do it requires getting everything to boiling for pasteurization. I expect 1 gallon mason jars and lids exist for survivalist nuts but 4 quart jars isn't a terrible amount per gallon either.
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May 13, 2014 19:14
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There are half gallon jars http://www.amazon.com/Ball-68100-Mason-Jars-Gal/dp/B000IOFI96
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May 13, 2014 19:30
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IOFI96?pc_redir=1399859436&robot_redir=1 These are some half-gallon mason jars I've been eyeing for apple jack storage. Edit: Jinx!
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May 13, 2014 19:31
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Chronos13 posted:My current batch is an imperial stout that had an OG of 1.075. Unfortunately, it seems to be stuck at 1.030 for the last week now I had the opposite problem with my latest batch. It was also an imperial stout that started at 1.085. It was calculated to probably end somewhere around 1.019. It actually finished at 1.012. The reading was the same from two different samples taken one week apart.
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May 13, 2014 20:26
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We all have tons of stickers from brewery tours and what-not. If you're like me, you want to display them, but you hate the idea of permanently affixing them to something, especially your beer fridge. My solution? Use magnet paper to turn the stickers into magnets!  You just stick the sticker to the paper, cut around it with scissors, and now you can move it wherever you want! Bonus points: buy a keg from the brewery and use the magnet to show off their logo  These things work in your inkjet printer, so you could even print your own logos and drop them on your keezer.
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May 13, 2014 22:44
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 So that's why they call them bottle bombs.
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May 13, 2014 23:09
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Marshmallow Blue posted:Amber Ale (BIAB) update: I feel like I may have asked you this before and you may have even answered, so apologies in advance if that's the case, but... 1. What temp are you mashing at? i.e., what temp are you killing the heat, and what temp is it when you check it after 90 minutes? or are you keeping it on heat and managing it in that time? 2. Mashing out to 168°, yes? 3. Have you tried a product like pH 5.2 stabilizer? Just to give yourself a set number to work off of? 4. Your boil - 60 or 90 minutes? Is it a rolling boil that you have to watch or a small one? 5. Post-mash, are you aggressive at all in extracting liquid from your bag? Just doing more squeezing and twisting can go an awfully long way. Daedalus Esquire posted:So I now have a pound of citra, a pound of sorachi ace, and a pound of liberty. All of which I have never used in a beer. I also have 3lbs of cascade. Saison. Prairie Hop is a Citra-loaded saison and it's amazing. Sorachi Ace has this very direct lemon/orange-y flavor that I'm not sure would go with the pineapple/mango of Citra. To each their own, however.
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May 13, 2014 23:26
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I also just brewed a Saison that was single-hopped with Sorachi Ace. 1/2 oz at 60, 1/2 oz at 20, 1 oz at flameout.
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May 13, 2014 23:27
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Poured my priming sure before realizing it wasn't the correct amount. 3 volumes of co2 it is! Luckily it's a saison, I guess.
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May 14, 2014 02:14
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wattershed posted:I feel like I may have asked you this before and you may have even answered, so apologies in advance if that's the case, but... 1. I put the grain in at 160 and the mash starts at 156 and ends at 152 2. No mash out 3. No, but I recently heard about it and am gonna check it out. 4. Boil depends on the recipe but it's usually between 60-70 minutes. It's a pretty good boil but I also don't have to watch it cause it's 4 gallons in an 8 gallon pot. 5. I squeeze and twist but I'm sure there's a way I could do better to get the sugars out of the grain bag.
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May 14, 2014 13:52
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fullroundaction posted:I've got a lot of amarillo sitting around and I'm burned out on amarillo-heavy pale ales. Suggestions? In addition to the saison suggestions (I made one recently and it disappeared soo fast), I used amarillo in a cream ale recently. I did a late addition so there's a bit of hop flavor, but it's subtle and nice.
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May 14, 2014 14:52
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Marshmallow Blue posted:2. No mash out quote:5. I squeeze and twist but I'm sure there's a way I could do better to get the sugars out of the grain bag.
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May 14, 2014 15:47
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Imaduck posted:Mash out! @Mashout, I was contemplating doing it, but I heard that when figuring out a new system (4th batch on BIAB), you don't want to change too many things all at once because you won't know what the effects were. This time I did the double crush and 90 minute mash. I think my crush is fine so I'm going back to single crush and going mashout and really work on getting the good juice out of the grain bag.
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May 14, 2014 16:06
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Marshmallow Blue posted:1. I put the grain in at 160 and the mash starts at 156 and ends at 152 1. The higher your temperature for the mash, the more complex sugars you'll be dealing with, which means less fermentable sugars for the yeast. I realize your concern at the moment is OG and not FG, but you're probably clipping yourself at each end right now getting over ~155° in your mash. 2. MASH OUT! :) But seriously you're gonna want to do that. Like, every time. 4. Going the extra 20-30 minutes in your boil's gonna help condense that liquid a bit more and help you reach your expected gravity level. To that point... 5. I haven't found any problem with taking your good sweet country time on this step. Twist that bag, get some baller-rear end silicone gloves, throw them in a bowl of ice water, then slip em on and get to squeezing the poo poo out of the bag. They'll heat up and you'll have to take breaks to cool them off if you're doing it right, but it's the best combination of effective squeezing plus heat resistance I've found. It might take 25 minutes or so to knock it out but you should be able to pull off around 80% of the mash volume leading into the boil if you put in the effort. That'll allow you to boil for 90 minutes, raising that gravity, and still letting you finish with a volume you're content with. You mentioned not wanting to change too many things at once, but these are all things you're going to want to do...the double crush has no negative effects in BIAB so keep that up *and* take on the other steps.
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May 15, 2014 00:12
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ieatsoap6 posted:
Haha what happened?
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May 15, 2014 02:15
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wattershed posted:1. The higher your temperature for the mash, the more complex sugars you'll be dealing with, which means less fermentable sugars for the yeast. I realize your concern at the moment is OG and not FG, but you're probably clipping yourself at each end right now getting over ~155° in your mash. 1. I usually alter my mash temp per batch based on what i'm going for in terms of terminal sweetness. I guess i could do that with yeast attenuation, but that makes picking yeast for flavor characteristics a lot harder. I wanted this amber to be on the sweeter side. My last batch, an IPA, i mashed at around 150 and got a FG of 1.012 2. Yes mashing out next time for sure.
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May 15, 2014 02:49
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But seriously you're gonna want to do that. Like, every time.
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Sistergodiva posted:Haha what happened? Brewed with Belgian Saison yeast. Finished a bit higher than expected, so I pitched US-05 to finish it off. Gravity was stable but high, so I chalked it up to a mashing error or something and bottled it. The ones I've opened since then have been overcarbed but not crazy. Then the weather heated up a bit, the yeast woke up, ate remaining sugars, and six or seven bottles exploded in my beer room, covering it in glass and beer. Whoops!
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May 15, 2014 03:38
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I'm guessing you were too frantic to nab a photo or two? You know for research n stuff...  EDIT: Put a label on the first ever bottle in my entire home brewing career. At work we have a craft beer swap and the theme for this week was IPA, which I had just bottled. SO I put up a home-brew + a commercial IPA. The photo and name is a reference to the work Fantasy football league where I won as "Turkey Hat" and my mascot was a flaming Guinea Hen with a football helmet (which was originally from the birds w/hats thread here on SA! Anyways, the bottle looks nice, but I think I'll continue with the no-label route, except maybe some very special brews. 
Marshmallow Blue fucked around with this message at 21:42 on May 15, 2014 |
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May 15, 2014 12:32
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Marshmallow Blue posted:I'm guessing you were too frantic to nab a photo or two? You know for research n stuff... No pictures, unfortunately. Imagine a nice clean room, except with broken glass all over it. I think there might be a couple dents in the ceiling as well. BUT! More importantly! Updates on stuff! First, Daedalus Esquire and I figured his Secret Santa package got lost in the mail, so he sent me ingredients for a brew. Let's take a look at that bad boy:  Look at that bad boy. Beautiful! Turns out that his Secret Santa package didn't get lost in the mail! Instead, FedEx decided to deliver it four months late  As a result, I'm the proud new owner of some absolutely delicious sounding brews that I can't wait to try after they settle down a bit from their journey. I'll also be sending him a few of mine because it seems a bit wrong to get two Secret Santa presents (and who doesn't like free mail-beers?). So thank you Daedalus and gently caress you FedEx.
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May 16, 2014 03:09
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I think I'd like to make a marzen this weekend. I got this recipe from somewhere, thoughts, changes? Title: Oktoberfest Brew Method: All Grain Style Name: Oktoberfest/Märzen Boil Time: 60 min Batch Size: 5 gallons (fermentor volume) Boil Size: 6.5 gallons Boil Gravity: 1.041 Efficiency: 60% (brew house) STATS: Original Gravity: 1.053 Final Gravity: 1.015 ABV (standard): 5.03% IBU (tinseth): 21.71 SRM (morey): 9.3 FERMENTABLES: 12 lb - German - Munich Light (100%) HOPS: 1.5 oz - Hallertau Hersbrucker, Type: Pellet, AA: 4, Use: Boil for 40 min, IBU: 21.71 MASH GUIDELINES: 1) Infusion, Temp: 154 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 18 qt, Water Temp: 169 2) Sparge, Temp: 170 F, Amount: 13 qt, Water Temp: 190 YEAST: Fermentis / Safale - Saflager - German Lager Yeast S-23 NOTES: 7 L starter Pitch at 50. Diacetyl rest @ 68 Rack to secondary, lower temp gradually until 33-35. Lager forever at 33-35. Second question: a 7L starter will take a whole pound of DME which is like $7 at my LBS, is there a cheaper alternative to this?
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May 16, 2014 14:35
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bewbies posted:YEAST: Yes. First, I'd suggest skipping S-23 in favor of 34/70 if you can get it reasonably. Second, skip the starter and just use two sachets of yeast. That's plenty of yeast, even for a cold-pitch lager.
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May 16, 2014 14:45
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Talk to me about priming sugar adjustments for cold-crashed beer. I've bottled a hundred room temperature batches but this will be the first one I've ever crashed out and I don't want to screw it up. (I know how to use a calculator I just want practical opinions from experience)
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May 16, 2014 14:57
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Via Homebrewfinds: if you're wanting to expand your carboy collection, Midwest Supplies has a twofer sale: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/pages/buy-a-bubbler-get-a-bubbler-carboy-offer.html Free shipping over $59, too.
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May 16, 2014 14:57
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Jo3sh posted:Via Homebrewfinds: if you're wanting to expand your carboy collection, Midwest Supplies has a twofer sale: I'm going back to buckets! I hate cleaning carboys. I'm gonna use them for meads and stuff and maybe get some for souring in the future though.
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May 16, 2014 15:06
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Buckets definitely have their upsides. I'm hoping the new bigmouth bubbler carboys go on a twofer sometime reasonably soon.
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May 16, 2014 15:14
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Jo3sh posted:Yes. First, I'd suggest skipping S-23 in favor of 34/70 if you can get it reasonably. Second, skip the starter and just use two sachets of yeast. That's plenty of yeast, even for a cold-pitch lager. I think I can get WLP820 or 830, which of those would you recommend?
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May 16, 2014 15:18
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Anyone used Wyeast Northwest Ale? I guess it's a "true top fermenting " yeast. I used it on my Amber Ale and I can say it forms the most gunky Krausen I've ever seen. It's like sticky glue paste. Defiantly won't ever drop. ( I know this because I was scooping Kruasen for my next batch).
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May 16, 2014 15:32
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Jo3sh posted:Yes. First, I'd suggest skipping S-23 in favor of 34/70 if you can get it reasonably. Second, skip the starter and just use two sachets of yeast. That's plenty of yeast, even for a cold-pitch lager. Two packs of 34/70 works great in all the lagers I make - that's 400+bn cells. Who wants to make a ~4L starter anyway?
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May 16, 2014 15:49
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