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Powershift posted:2800. Where are you located fuuuuuuuu
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Nov 20, 2014 22:52
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| # ? May 25, 2024 04:58 |
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Just took her out for one last dance. I think i made the right choice letting her go, but god drat it's a neat little car. It's like i just finished masturbating but rather than closing all the porn tabs and stopping the downloads, i'm deleting all the kijiji/ebay alerts and bookmarks to JDM import stuff. Seat Safety Switch posted:Aw, that would have been fun to buy and slap a used motor in it. Not like I really have the time for that, though. Yeah, if work was steady or i figured i could get $2800 out of it, i definitely would have gone that way. It's a shame to send a car to it's likely death over a little golfball-like surface texturing Slow is Fast posted:Where are you located fuuuuuuuu Alberta. It's was close, but i don't think the car is worth $2800 at this point. It sat for 2 years, so a lot of stuff relating to the sitting on top of the hail and existing damage that knocked the pre-hail value down to $7k. It would have probably made a pretty sweet ice race/rally car. If i had to replace it tomorrow i would have my pick of Evo 4/5s, GB WRXs, skylines. Hell, it's winter now so 1JZ soarers are back under 3 grand.
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Nov 20, 2014 23:44
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I take it it's a wrx with an sti wing and stickers? Because the 6-speed drivetrain alone is worth more than that.
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Nov 20, 2014 23:56
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Yeah. Wrx. If it was an sti it would have been nowhere near a write off.
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Nov 21, 2014 00:29
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  sorry for the crappy quality, 6 speed 2 door sti in ames Iowa
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Nov 21, 2014 02:36
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I don't think it can be anything other than an RS that has been worked over. It's pretty much impossible to federalize a car that was never sold here. There's no way you could register an STI of the vintage in the US.
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Nov 21, 2014 02:50
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Guy was Puerto Rican and claims to have imported it, it doesn't make the 25 year cut off so I was confused too...
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Nov 21, 2014 02:52
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Anyone know what would cause just my front parking lights to not work in a BG outback? Rears work and the bulbs in the front are getting current because the turn signals work. No blown fuses that I can find.
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Nov 21, 2014 10:44
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BIG HORNY COW posted:Anyone know what would cause just my front parking lights to not work in a BG outback? Rears work and the bulbs in the front are getting current because the turn signals work. No blown fuses that I can find. Are the bulb sockets corroded to hell?
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Nov 21, 2014 14:50
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Nope, they're in good shape. I changed one of the turn signal bulbs the other day {wasn't burnt out, had a clear bulb instead of amber) and the contacts in the socket even had dielectric gel on them. Hazards work fine as well.
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Nov 21, 2014 15:32
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So after an "I'm bored, let's waste a car salesman's time" test drive of an '09 base Impreza, I'm now saving my pennies for a down payment on some sort of Subaru because it made me realize what a crapcan the Vibe has become (and always has been in the handling department). I'd be looking at either a 4th gen turbo Legacy or a third gen WRX, either way I want a manual wagon with <100k km. I'm casting my eyes around now so when the time comes I'm better able to spot a good deal. Is there a good enthusiast-oriented buyer's guide around I can read? I kinda like the look of the Legacy better and the extra space would be damned nice to have since I tend to put things in my car that have no business being inside a station wagon, but I'm afraid of the extra weight and its effect on the feel of the car- plus manual Legacy wagons are a bit of a unicorn, especially in my price range. But WRXs I imagine are all going to be driven by people like me or worse, so  Any input on this?
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Nov 21, 2014 15:33
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A lot of Legacy and Outback turbos have been taken off the road from a combination of lazy oil changes and clogged banjo bolt filters leading to turbo starvation. The wagons already were pretty rare (less so in Canada, where we got an extra year).
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Nov 21, 2014 15:39
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A lot of Legacy and Outback turbos have been taken off the road from a combination of lazy oil changes and clogged banjo bolt filters leading to turbo starvation. The wagons already were pretty rare (less so in Canada, where we got an extra year). Good to know. It's a shame turbo failures are generally catastrophic to the engine, since it'd be cool to get one for cheap with a blown snail and repair it but I've heard from multiple sources that EJs don't like being rebuilt so that's out.
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Nov 21, 2014 16:02
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Ejs love rebuilds with forged pistons.Tommychu posted:So after an "I'm bored, let's waste a car salesman's time" test drive of an '09 base Impreza, I'm now saving my pennies for a down payment on some sort of Subaru because it made me realize what a crapcan the Vibe has become (and always has been in the handling department). I'd be looking at either a 4th gen turbo Legacy or a third gen WRX, either way I want a manual wagon with <100k km. I'm casting my eyes around now so when the time comes I'm better able to spot a good deal. Is there a good enthusiast-oriented buyer's guide around I can read? A legacy gt wagon weighs less than an sti. They aren't that heavy. Get a leakdown on anything you buy with an ej25.
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Nov 21, 2014 16:03
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nm posted:Ejs love rebuilds with forged pistons. What is the benefit to forged pistons on a stock motor? I've got forged pistons in my EJ20k and while it's probably a good idea since it's running 17psi stock boost, I don't know why someone would want to add cold start piston slap to a car that doesn't need the strength. e: Or does a forged piston protect the ringlands better on ej25s?
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Nov 21, 2014 17:15
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EJ25 bore is huge, maybe it's a reciprocating mass thing? I can't imagine a cast piston for a (nearly) 100mm bore being particularly light. e: Also, a little more research and yeah the weights are almost exactly the same (~200lbs) between an EJ255 Legacy wagon and a WRX wagon. So basically Impreza should be a backup if I can't find a Legacy I like, or are there other significant differences between the two I haven't considered? Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Nov 21, 2014 |
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Nov 21, 2014 17:46
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It's just that forged pistons are resistant to detonation. Cast aluminum pistons with a "hypereutectic" alloy, like Subaru picks in the OEM setup, have a huge quantity of silicon, more than you would see in other pistons. Silicon basically makes aluminum stronger, but only up to a certain point. This has two benefits:
Cast pistons also are tight and contracted, but they expand much less when they're heated than a forged one, which means that the piston when cold fits tighter into the bore. The increased silicon also keeps the piston crown cooler, which is usually a good thing for engine life. The downside is that increased silicon makes the piston more vulnerable to detonation, or more accurately, pre-ignition. It's much easier for the piston to crack in high stress areas such as the piston ringlands when it encounters the combustion force or side-loads in places it doesn't expect. When you look at a company like Subaru that went to hypereutectic pistons very early on (in order to meet US emissions regulations in order to bring the WRX to our shores) and had initial success, the temptation is to continue to push the envelope a little bit. Since Subaru is the laziest company on earth they push it a little longer than they should, especially in markets that aren't their home market. This lead to an increased quantity of silicon as time goes on, and a tighter tune for emissions/fuel econ. Unfortunately around 07-08 the stock tune was weakened to a point where it can run dangerously lean under certain driving conditions, leading to increased ringland claims. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Nov 21, 2014 |
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Nov 21, 2014 17:52
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They changed piston material in 07-08ish to a doo doo piston that farts out ringlands when you go stage 2. Forged pistons remove that issue.
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Nov 21, 2014 17:54
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The question I have is are people seeing ringland issues yet on the new FA20 Turbo? I know the WRX is relatively new, but the engine has been around for at least 3 years in various markets in various cars. So, there should be some experience with them already.
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Nov 21, 2014 18:50
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bull3964 posted:The question I have is are people seeing ringland issues yet on the new FA20 Turbo? There are plenty of FA20's that have been aftermarket turbo'd in the 86 community. You don't have to look too hard to find some grenades.
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Nov 21, 2014 18:55
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VelociBacon posted:What is the benefit to forged pistons on a stock motor? I've got forged pistons in my EJ20k and while it's probably a good idea since it's running 17psi stock boost, I don't know why someone would want to add cold start piston slap to a car that doesn't need the strength. They don't do this: 
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Nov 21, 2014 18:58
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Black Is Black posted:There are plenty of FA20's that have been aftermarket turbo'd in the 86 community. You don't have to look too hard to find some grenades. Yeah, but that's turboing an engine that wasn't designed for one from the start. People are killing ringlands on STOCK STIs. I was just wondering what the situation was on stock/mild tune factory FA20 Turbos.
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Nov 21, 2014 19:06
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Does anyone have a secret to make replacing the spark plugs not be a tremendous pain in the rear end? Like, is there a particular type of wrench that actually fits? I remember the last time I did the plugs, about 30k miles ago, it took me 3 or 4 hours and I still hosed it up. I'm kind of tempted to just take it into the shop and have them do it unless there's one weird secret dealerships don't want me to know. I love this car so much. I've been driving an E150 for work, and today was my first day using my Subaru again. I drove up through a mountain pass into Wyoming today, and I never had to downshift on a hill, even when I was well above 7000 feet. It started getting a little short of breath near the top of the pass, but it's actually fun to drive and it handled the elevation change and slopes like a champ. Basically what I'm saying is I want a gravel express.
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Nov 21, 2014 21:49
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Take it to a non-dealership Subaru shop and have them do it. It's something you just have to get used to doing by doing it, it takes a combination of funky universal joints and extensions on your wrench to get it just right. A good Subaru shop will be able to do it cheaper and reasonably quick. There's no real magic.
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Nov 21, 2014 22:03
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I like this method: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f87/xt-spark-plugs-20-minute-job-12290/
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Nov 21, 2014 22:44
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I have one of these: http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SBDUUP26PTA/UNIVERSAL-SPARK-PLUG-2PC-SOCKET jamal fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Nov 21, 2014 |
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Nov 21, 2014 22:58
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Okay, this one is probably a dumb question, but I'm gearing up for a lot of maintenance this weekend, and the jiffy lube guys told me both my turn indicators were out. I checked, and the two front ones near where the fog lights would be are still working. Are the lights under the orange portion of the headlight assembly turn signals as well, or are those for something else? Basically, should I be seeing two lights on each side light up when I hit the turn signal, or just one? I'm pretty sure it's two, but I don't want to waste time and money if it's just one.
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Nov 21, 2014 23:26
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Does anyone have a secret to make replacing the spark plugs not be a tremendous pain in the rear end? Like, is there a particular type of wrench that actually fits? I remember the last time I did the plugs, about 30k miles ago, it took me 3 or 4 hours and I still hosed it up. I'm kind of tempted to just take it into the shop and have them do it unless there's one weird secret dealerships don't want me to know. 3/8" ratchet, 3" 3/8" extension, sparkplug socket, 12mm socket, small hands. remove: -washer bottle, if it's on the drivers side strut tower. -airbox -battery (optional, but good) remove: -coilpacks plugs (remember, black plugs go at the back) -break free 12mm holding on coilpacks using socket/wrench & then unthread the retaining bolt by hand (some coilpacks will have to be rotated in-situ 180° in order to get them out) -rear passenger side coilpack bolt has the O2 sensor wiring bracket on it procedure for removing plugs: -put spark plug socket into the well -put extension into the well -attach ratchet to that -break plug free -remove ratchet -unscrew using extension -remove extension & socket & sparkplug combo replacement is reverse of removal -torque plugs using "contact + 3/4 turn", or whatever the box the spark plug says The whole idea is just to avoid backing yourself into a corner by backing out the ratchet so far it runs into the frame rail. GrantC fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Nov 21, 2014 |
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Nov 21, 2014 23:26
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BigFuzzyJesus posted:Guy was Puerto Rican and claims to have imported it, it doesn't make the 25 year cut off so I was confused too... Military maybe? There are cars newer than that floating around that were imported. There are certainly ways to do it if you have time and money.
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Nov 22, 2014 00:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Cast aluminum pistons with a "hypereutectic" alloy, like Subaru picks in the OEM setup, have a huge quantity of silicon, more than you would see in other pistons. Source for the bolded info please. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Nov 22, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2014 01:43
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A combo of my own rear end, memory and Wikipedia. Please provide sources for contrary information, I'm curious to learn. 
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Nov 22, 2014 01:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A combo of my own rear end, memory and Wikipedia. Please provide sources for contrary information, I'm curious to learn. I can address a few: High silicon content should increase the cost of manufacture and increase the strength as well. It improves the ability of the aluminum to flow into the mold but when you're talking about hypereutectic (12-25% silicon) alloys I would think (read:not my area of expertise) you're well past that consideration. Thus the fact that youre machining aluminum with a bunch of rocks in it mean the manufacturing cost is significantly higher as the tool life is significantly reduced with increases in silicon content. Additionally because creating a "modified" grain structure (reduces the size of the silicon particles) requires fairly tight alloy controls, your input material cost goes up. I am not aware of any shock or notch sensitivity in hypereutectic aluminum that would make it more prone to ring land failure with increasing silicon content. It would seem the opposite is true. It'd make more sense if instead it was design or manufacturing defect where they thinned the ringland because they overestimated the strength increase. High silicon alloys have worse thermal conductivity, so I guess it makes sense it keeps the top of the piston cooler. (A couple % worse than hypoeutectic cast)
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Nov 22, 2014 02:42
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A cast hypereutectic piston should be cheaper to make than a forged aluminum piston though, shouldn't it? I thought that a forged piston involved expensive tooling and setup costs and that leads to increased cost. Or is it just low production?
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Nov 22, 2014 02:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:A cast hypereutectic piston should be cheaper to make than a forged aluminum piston though, shouldn't it? I thought that a forged piston involved expensive tooling and setup costs and that leads to increased cost. Or is it just low production? Oh, yes, for sure. I meant that increasing the content from 12-16% will increase the cost of making the piston.
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Nov 22, 2014 02:55
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Oh yeah, absolutely. I don't think we're too far apart on the specifics as much as my original post had a ton of generalities. I am curious about the detonation point as if it is a lie, it's an oft-repeated ("folk knowledge") one. I'm gonna see if I can chase up anything technical about it as most of what I'm finding is forums and magazine articles (which is probably where I got it from in the first place, Car Craft).
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Nov 22, 2014 02:56
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Are Subarus really as picky about their coolant as nasioc says? And does that conditioning stuff actually matter? It sounds kind of like BMW $200 oil change BS.
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Nov 22, 2014 03:43
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Are sti shocks and springs worth getting to replace my dead wrx shocks?
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Nov 22, 2014 04:50
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A Saucy Bratwurst posted:Are sti shocks and springs worth getting to replace my dead wrx shocks? I had sti pinks on my 1st wrx and they where really good.
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Nov 22, 2014 04:57
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The koni yellow inserts w/RCE springs that I got from Jamal for my 03 WRX was fantastic for sporty daily driving. Not to say that STi shocks and springs aren't also good, but you may be looking at 10 year old parts, versus new. Question for the assembled: I now have an 05 Outback XT, and it's as stock as can be. I was planning on leaving it that way, but the front brakes started making noise, and rather than just taking the easy way out and replacing the pads with ye olde stock replacement bits, I'd like to upgrade a bit. From research, the 05-09 Legacy GT rotors will fit (and are larger) provided I also use LGT calipers, pads and mounting brackets. Should I just try to cherry pick parts off of the legacygt forum buy/sell, find some reman bits on ebay/rockauto, or...? I'm thinking that the whole swap (Front/rear calipers, rotors, pads) should run me about $600.
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Nov 22, 2014 05:26
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| # ? May 25, 2024 04:58 |
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Yeah, what he said. Sti stuff is too old these days. I think I have a blown front and I'm with going to replace them with agxes or st coilovers. I'd prefer asts or rce t2s but there's pretty much no reason to spend that kind of money on my car right now. As far as the brakes go, probably not. I think you have 294mm rotors and I would just get some good pads and give them a thorough bleed. Maybe lines and a mc brace if you feel like it. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Nov 22, 2014 |
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Nov 22, 2014 06:51
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