|
9k is nuts. You need a new short block, so like $1700 there, and labor to replace it at like $1500? I'm guessing some level of head work is required, but I'm not seeing $9k. You don't need to "build" the motor if you're just trying to bring it back to stock running shape, which would be your goal I assume.
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 04:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 02:35 |
|
|
new shortblock, either keep the stock pistons or if you have a down pipe replace them with literally anything not OEM. Then labor to clean everything and put it back together. 9k is pants on head retarded.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 04:30
|
|
|
Pistons would add a lot of cost for a guy just looking to get out from under the car though. Better option would be to use stock pistons, put all stock parts back on, sell any aftermarket stuff to help cover the costs, enjoy an OEM STI because really it's still a great car. Or sell an OEM STI because you'll have a lot more people interested in it stock.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 04:34
|
|
|
Thanks for the responses!si posted:Pistons would add a lot of cost for a guy just looking to get out from under the car though. Better option would be to use stock pistons, put all stock parts back on, sell any aftermarket stuff to help cover the costs, enjoy an OEM STI because really it's still a great car. Or sell an OEM STI because you'll have a lot more people interested in it stock. The car's completely stock and I was gutted when they wanted that much for repairs because the car's been otherwise great to me. I bought it with 22 miles on it and am still on the original clutch after +70k miles and a few autoX / rallycross events. If repairs end up being less than $5k I can probably swing it, so here's hoping.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 04:57
|
|
|
Crack in the piston (ringland for instance) shouldn't need anything beyond a new shortblock. The OEM Subaru short block can be had pretty constantly for <$1800, so you just need labor to pull/assemble if you can't do it yourself. It's a good time to do timing belt/water pump/etc associated gaskets, but that shouldn't add more than a few hundred that you'd have to have done at 105k for regular maintenance anyhow. Did they do a leakdown to figure out the source of the low compression?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 05:16
|
|
|
Help. I have a real person job, and am in the market for a car (I currently drive a well-worn '03 Impreza RS), and I'm furiously in love with the 2015 Impreza. Please tell me that I'm stupid and should buy an '08 or something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 06:32
|
|
|
si posted:Crack in the piston (ringland for instance) shouldn't need anything beyond a new shortblock. The OEM Subaru short block can be had pretty constantly for <$1800, so you just need labor to pull/assemble if you can't do it yourself. It's a good time to do timing belt/water pump/etc associated gaskets, but that shouldn't add more than a few hundred that you'd have to have done at 105k for regular maintenance anyhow.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 06:57
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Can anyone that has driven both an h6 and turboed outback/legacy give a comparison of how they drive? If everything goes well I will be buying a new used car in the next year, and I'm interested in something with a bit more pep than the 2.5. I'm leaning towards the turbo because I live at 5000 feet, but I haven't had a chance to drive either. I've got a 05 Outback XT, and transferred to it from an 02 WRX. It's nice and comfortable, seems nearly as fast, and is more pleasant on long trips. Also, has loads of cargo room and leather. On the downside, it's heavier, and just not as fun overall to play with as the WRX was. I guess if I were to summarize it, it would be to say that it feels more 'grown up' but still a bit sporty. If I could somehow get a car with the character of the WRX but the liveability of the Outback, I'd probably switch, but at the moment, the OBXT is the sole car. Also, it gets way worse gas mileage - 10L/100km average on the WRX, 13L/100km on the OBXT. Jamal, do you have a hookup on OBXT struts? I need to replace the fronts on this car - the rears are already going to be replaced by a garage due to a disagreement with a kerb...
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 07:09
|
|
|
OWLS! posted:Help. I have a real person job, and am in the market for a car (I currently drive a well-worn '03 Impreza RS), and I'm furiously in love with the 2015 Impreza. Depends on what you're looking for. Are you looking for fun? Speed? Fuel economy? Automatic or manual? I have a 2012 base model with the automatic CVT which is basically the same as the 2015 model except for a slightly updated body and interior. While I've ragged on the engine and CVT before for being not very responsive, I will have admit that it is a hoot to drive below 55 mph and is adequately responsive at those speeds. Beyond that the engine takes more convincing to accelerate and the road noise does get rather deafening after a few hours. However, the 2015's upgraded interior does include improved sound dampening. Too bad they didn't improve the drivetrain except for a 1 mpg increase. The 2012 manual model has a 0-to-60 mph time of 8.0 seconds vs the CVT's 9.0 seconds while the manual 2008-2011 models has a time of 7.6 seconds. The fuel economies are 24/33, 27/36, and 22/27 city/highway mpg respectively. As for reliability, I've had my Impreza for about 1 1/2 years and it's been running without incident. While there is a case of these engines consuming more oil than normal, I've never found it to be an issue though I never really looked closely at the invoice for how much oil is getting put in. In short, I'm happy with my Impreza despite the somewhat anemic engine and loud high speed road noise. At least happy enough to drive it for another year and hope by then that a new WRX hatchback will be coming out. Otherwise, my fallback plan is get a 2014 or newer Forester XT and tighten up and lower the suspension, find a 2014 or older WRX hatchback, or wait some more. The upcoming Mazdaspeed 3 with AWD sounds like an interesting option, too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 07:35
|
|
|
Go somewhere else. 9k would get you a new long block installed with a lot of change. There is literally no justification for that estimate. 4k for a short block rebuild is about what I paid. This happened when I was in sacramento and no one in the bay had the gall to quote me 9 loving grand. I think 6k was about the going rate, so I paid a few hundred bucks to ship the car to the shop jamal worked at and saved thousands. Socal is so much cheapest subaru wise. Also, don't use any shops around sacramento. All terrible, even if cheaper. LIC will be holy poo poo expensive as they refuse to reuse blocks. nm fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Nov 30, 2014 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 07:37
|
|
|
Edward IV posted:The 2012 manual model has a 0-to-60 mph time of 8.0 seconds vs the CVT's 9.0 seconds while the manual 2008-2011 models has a time of 7.6 seconds. The hatch hits the time quoted above, the 4-door is slower. But since the hatch is the better version in all other aspects I'm sure that's what you had in mind! Speaking of Subarus, my 12 Impreza and my wife's 14 Outback both have a pathetic amount of padding in the door arm-rests resulting in an uncomfortable elbow on longer drives. Am I the only one with this problem?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 07:47
|
|
|
Totally TWISTED posted:The hatch hits the time quoted above, the 4-door is slower. But since the hatch is the better version in all other aspects I'm sure that's what you had in mind! The padding is very thin. Mine has a permanent divot shaped like my elbow that has been there since only a few hundred miles. And re: highway road noise - the stock tires are garbage, and changing them to literally anything else helps a bit. However, the majority is through the windows. I believe they used thin glass to save weight, and also the side mirrors are really big and noisy. The 2015 models use thicker acoustic glass and additional soundproofing. Other nice things include optional auto dimming side mirrors, and a stereo that's not from the 90s.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 14:42
|
|
|
I want to say that the 2016 Impreza is supposed to be a total redesign. I imagine those would be out mid-year though. I'm sure we'll know more in January or February when they announce things at the Auto Shows.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 15:41
|
|
|
nm posted:LIC will be holy poo poo expensive as they refuse to reuse blocks.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 17:40
|
|
|
Totally TWISTED posted:Speaking of Subarus, my 12 Impreza and my wife's 14 Outback both have a pathetic amount of padding in the door arm-rests resulting in an uncomfortable elbow on longer drives. Am I the only one with this problem? My 09 wrx has this "problem". I haven't managed to wear through the cover yet, but at this point the padding must be dust because I can feel the hard plastic every time I put my arm down.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 17:43
|
|
|
Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Uh, '07 STI owner checking in with bad compression on cylinder 4. Local Subaru specialists want to charge $9k for a rebuild with stronger parts but I don't have the cash reserves (had a kid 2 months ago and we're cutting back everywhere to afford expensive-rear end SF Bay childcare). What exactly is itemized in that quote for $9k? What were your compression results on the cylinder, and have they started the teardown? Like others have suggested, if it's just a blown shortblock, turning it into a parts car isn't the best idea, unless you're feeding another vehicle funds-permitting. Labor is what's going to kill your wallet, especially rates in the bay area. Expect anywhere from 15-30hrs billed with teardown, another $2500 or so in parts, and who knows whatever misc. expenses you may have. How many miles did you have on the block, what was it used for, and what are your immediate plans for the vehicle?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 19:15
|
|
|
McSpatula posted:What exactly is itemized in that quote for $9k? What were your compression results on the cylinder, and have they started the teardown?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 19:37
|
|
|
OWLS! posted:Help. I have a real person job, and am in the market for a car (I currently drive a well-worn '03 Impreza RS), and I'm furiously in love with the 2015 Impreza. It's basically an AWD camry, if that's what you are looking for (if it's snowy in your area or you make trips to snowy places) it's pretty good. I will say that they are known to go through a fair bit of oil in some cases, are super loud inside from the road noise, and don't have that great fuel mileage because of the AWD. Also the CVT transmission is awful to drive with. They're not fast at all but you probably already know that. If I were in your position and wanted a people mover I'd probably buy a low KM used Impreza and use the money I saved to take a trip somewhere or buy a fancy desk ornament for my real person job.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 19:56
|
|
|
I'd be interested to see the estimate for that one. LIC are awesome guys that do really great work but you could do a basic shortblock replacement for quite a bit less. I'd assume that is for a new block from the dealer, then disassembly and a rebuild with different bearings and aftermarket pistons, then a pretty thorough rebuild of the heads. Plus msrp on all the parts.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 20:17
|
|
|
9k sounds right if it's a built motor.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 21:02
|
|
|
Man that blows my mind that these engines can pop at 75k and un-modded. In the ongoing saga of my 02 wrx: If I am seeing a puff of blue smoke at startup is that possibly my turbo seals are failing?
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 21:07
|
|
|
Yeah, the 9k was for a rebuild with aftermarket parts; I think they said 6k for OEM parts. I also just remembered that the guy across the street from me is a mechanic who always has people dropping off their cars at his house to work on them; he'd probably do it reasonably cheap.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 21:09
|
|
|
Look at GST or those guys in santa rosa. I know gst will be happy to reuse your block unless it is hosed. LIC is great, but too expensive.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 21:17
|
|
|
Simkin posted:I've got a 05 Outback XT, and transferred to it from an 02 WRX. It's nice and comfortable, seems nearly as fast, and is more pleasant on long trips. Also, has loads of cargo room and leather. On the downside, it's heavier, and just not as fun overall to play with as the WRX was. I guess if I were to summarize it, it would be to say that it feels more 'grown up' but still a bit sporty. If I could somehow get a car with the character of the WRX but the liveability of the Outback, I'd probably switch, but at the moment, the OBXT is the sole car. Also, it gets way worse gas mileage - 10L/100km average on the WRX, 13L/100km on the OBXT.. That's good to know. I'd be moving over from an outback sport, and the seats can get a little uncomfortable after a few hours. I guess what I was wanting to know, though, is the difference between a 2.5t and a 3.0. Obviously both have more power than the NA 2.5, and IIRC you can only get the 3.0 with an automatic, but aside from that I'm just curious how the feel and power delivery is between the two options. I probably wouldn't be modifying either, so the ability to turn up the PSI and have more power on the turbo isn't really a factor.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 21:38
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:In the ongoing saga of my 02 wrx: If I am seeing a puff of blue smoke at startup is that possibly my turbo seals are failing? That'd be my most likely guess based on the cars I see failing locally (usually with excessive shaft play to boot). Is there a good turbo rebuild place in your city? They might be able to give a consultation even if the rebuild cost isn't worth it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 23:17
|
|
|
Ugh, that sucks. I'm 3 months into owning this car and already want to go back to back to bmw.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2014 23:58
|
|
|
Yeah, at least with BMW it's just the cooling system, subframes/bushings, fuel systems, turbos and ABS systems.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 00:06
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:Man that blows my mind that these engines can pop at 75k and un-modded. That could be lots of different things- leaking valve seals, a sticking pcv, excessive blow-by, or yes, the turbo. I'd start by pulling the intercooler and seeing how much oil is in it (if there's a lot, you might want a leakdown test) and replacing the pcv while it's easy to get to. You can also take off the header to see if oil is leaking from the valve seals. Does it still have the stock downpipe with all the heat shields? They make taking it off more of a pain in the rear end, but that's what you would need to do to check the turbo.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 00:08
|
|
|
Man I got a baby coming in a month and I don't have any time for this kinda poo poo. I still haven't addressed the clutch/ToB or leaking valve cover issues, and I've already replaced the radiator and hoses and put new tires on it. Shame on me for buying this car and expecting it to be reliable.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 01:31
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:
12-year-old used cars are always kind of a gamble in the best of circumstances.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 02:10
|
|
|
Midjack posted:12-year-old used cars are always kind of a gamble in the best of circumstances. Exactly this and 2x this when you are buying a car that everyone mods and races.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 02:54
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:Man I got a baby coming in a month and I don't have any time for this kinda poo poo. If you seriously expected a 02 WRX to not need any work, you are crazy or did not do your research at all.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 03:04
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:Man I got a baby coming in a month and I don't have any time for this kinda poo poo. Well it is 12 years old. Even my 05 needs stuff and im the second owner, first was a middle aged lady who drove it to work.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 03:40
|
|
|
Artemis J Brassnuts posted:Yeah, the 9k was for a rebuild with aftermarket parts; I think they said 6k for OEM parts. I also just remembered that the guy across the street from me is a mechanic who always has people dropping off their cars at his house to work on them; he'd probably do it reasonably cheap. Considering the coin you're about to drop, do you really want a random sidejob mechanic rebuilding your motor? I'd understand the reasoning if he were some local track legend/master tech/someone with a metric for measuring aptitude who did this all the time, but this might not be the place to be pinching pennies at. Whatever you decide on doing post-teardown, be it replacing the shortblock outright or rebuilding and machining, give outfront motor sports a call and talk to Jeremy or John and compare your pricing options. They're a short road trip to socal or a quick freight shipment if you plan on pulling the block yourself. For that price, you can more or less get the parts for a fully built closed deck long block, with heaps of machining; so I'm guessing there's a communication breakdown happening in regards to what's actually going into this thing vs what its intended use will be.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 07:15
|
|
|
McSpatula posted:For that price, you can more or less get the parts for a fully built closed deck long block, with heaps of machining; so I'm guessing there's a communication breakdown happening in regards to what's actually going into this thing vs what its intended use will be. You might be surprised. LIC is holy poo poo expensive for rebuilds. I mean it will involve some forged bits, but I bet the block is OEM. He needs to find another shop for this -- LIC won't be offended, they weren't when i balked -- but maybe not a shade tree guy unless it is really, really cheap. GST will do it for ~$6-7k with forged pistons if I recall correctly (tune will be extra), and GST is pretty awesome. Or you can explore socal and save even more, but jamal moved to Montana. (Or you can do what I did and run 30k more miles on two hosed rings until the transmission blows! Buy oil futures.) nm fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Dec 1, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 07:40
|
|
|
Well, I just picked my car back up and had a chat with the guys. They were pretty resistant to just replacing the shortblock and insisted that if I really wanted to keep the car I should just bite the bullet and get forged pistons, upgraded valves, etc. On the compression/leakdown test, cylinder 4 came in at 138 psi / 12%. The leaks were in the breakers and oil cap, and they suspected a broken ringland. Is there any reason to suspect it would be more than a shortblock replacement? I'm going to call around and see what people charge for that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 21:07
|
|
|
You sure it was 138psi? That's actually "normal" as far as I'm aware, anywhere from like 130-145. 12% leakdown is pretty bad though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 21:36
|
|
|
So Im ready to do my first oil change in my '15 sti and Im wondering what oil I should use. I had used t6 on my '13 wrx but there seem to be a a lot of accusations flying around about recently blown motors being serviced with t6. Though at least one of the instances I saw SOA admitted to lovely bearing tolerances and its giving me quite the headache digging through nasioc and the like. The internet bullshit appears to be piling up on those sites. Should I stick with t6 or just grab any ol 5w30/40?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 21:40
|
|
|
Use anything that matches what your owner's manual says (I don't know if the 15 STI has changed?). Keep receipts. If they don't specify use X/Y or don't use Z, then you're fine. I use whatever 5w30 synth is on sale at Autozone at the time I go to do it. I use synth just because I sometimes miss my oil change interval by 500 miles or so and feel better about myself for it. In the RS which rarely sees more than 500 miles between a change I use whatever 5w30 regular (sometimes recycled) is the cheapest.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 02:35 |
|
|
Personally, as long as the engine is under warranty, my recommendation is to buy the synth from Subaru themselves. It's price competitive with other synths, no one has pointed to any issues with it, and you have a nice record at the dealership of your purchasing it which could help for future engine claims. At least for my 2011. ONLY 5w30 synthetic is allowed. 5w40 would technically be out of spec and grounds for warranty denial. So, I would not use T6 until out of warranty. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Dec 1, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2014 21:45
|
|
