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Yes, one day shipping to there from one of my distributors. Except the rear rotors are out of stock. And amazon is cheaper.
jamal fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Dec 3, 2014 |
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Dec 3, 2014 00:59
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McSpatula posted:You're cherry picking the sample size at this point. Believe me, I'd love to play the blame game with soa as much as the next guy, but without real data to back up this claim, it's just crying wolf at this point. Sure there were a few reported cases of 3rd gens that developed det/fueling issues, and those were taken care of; there are thousands of these motors doing just fine in foresters, outbacks, bajas, legacys, 9-2s, etc for more than half a decade now - where are those mystery grenading motors? The 2005+ LGTs have been killing pistons for years. I know it isn't a representative sample, but a good 1/4 of lgt.com threads have to do with rebuilding motors.
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Dec 3, 2014 03:09
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nm posted:The 2005+ LGTs have been killing pistons for years. I know it isn't a representative sample, but a good 1/4 of lgt.com threads have to do with rebuilding motors. I'm not saying that subaru's choice of pistons are the greatest thing since sliced bread, but what's causing them to fail? They aren't just crumbling catastrophically from sitting in a healthy, well-maintained motor.
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Dec 3, 2014 16:23
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DIAGNOSTIC DEATHMATCH Speaking of 2005 LGTs breaking... I got a CEL (constant, not flashing) a couple of days ago and just had the codes pulled. P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1) P0852 - Neutral Switch Input Circuit High P1152 - O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Low) Bank 1 Sensor 1 P1153 - O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (High) Bank 1 Sensor 1 P1518 - Starter Switch Circuit Low Input Car feels completely normal, zero symptoms. From my research, it seems like the most likely issues here are 1) bad ground and possibly 2) bad front o2 sensor. About a month ago the radiator's upper neck sheared where the hose fits over it and coolant exploded all over the engine bay while driving. Temp didn't enter the red; I pulled over, bodged a repair and refilled it and everything's been fine. However, I could see this causing grounding issues Am I heading in the right direction here? What grounds should I check (and how do I check them)?
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Dec 3, 2014 16:38
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Scrambles posted:DIAGNOSTIC DEATHMATCH The 0171, 1152 and 1153 definitley look like O2 sensor problems, how's your MPG been lately?
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Dec 3, 2014 17:31
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nm posted:The 2005+ LGTs have been killing pistons for years. I know it isn't a representative sample, but a good 1/4 of lgt.com threads have to do with rebuilding motors. Well a lot of people would make threads about that stuff because its heaps less simple than other things that you might need to do.
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Dec 3, 2014 17:36
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McSpatula posted:I'm not saying that subaru's choice of pistons are the greatest thing since sliced bread, but what's causing them to fail? They aren't just crumbling catastrophically from sitting in a healthy, well-maintained motor.
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Dec 3, 2014 18:25
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Gigi Galli posted:The 0171, 1152 and 1153 definitley look like O2 sensor problems, how's your MPG been lately? I mean it's always kind of bad but given that I recently switched my commute to almost all highway it should maybe be better than it is.
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Dec 3, 2014 18:41
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nm posted:The oem tune gets too lean in piston 4 at times. Have you taken a look at the fuel tables? Take a peek at the ancillary parts after 30k, 60k, and 90k miles. That bank wasn't always running lean from the go, I can guarantee it's out of spec due to failure other than the OEM tune.
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Dec 3, 2014 18:52
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Scrambles posted:DIAGNOSTIC DEATHMATCH Sounds like maybe something unplugged or loose, could be a leak in the intake system (maybe on the turbo inlet or a connected pcv line), o2 sensor not connected all the way, or dead o2, or loose ground. Since you have the plastic manifold all the grounds on the fuel injector brackets. I remember one time I put new injectors on an 08 wrx and was wondering why it wouldn't start when I was done. I had left a ground undone on the back of the manifold.
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Dec 3, 2014 20:19
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Good news everybody! Ended up finding the set of Wintersport 3Ds I loaned to family in the garage so now set for snow/ice, woop. Chicagoland mechanic recommendations; I've been going to Mid-City Subaru for awhile now for parts/bits/maintenance, anywhere else you guys prefer/trust? Thanks!
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Dec 3, 2014 21:11
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McSpatula posted:Have you taken a look at the fuel tables? The OEM tune should have allowances for parts that wear and age as well as allowances that adapt to environmental circumstances. That's what we mean when we say it's tuned too close to the edge. We already know that the car rides the knock sensor hard to help with emissions. They want it to run as lean as possible without causing damage so that there's fewer un-burnt hydrocarbons in the exhaust. The problem is, they develop these tunes under ideal circumstances and that's not the real world. Someone who has to run 91 in Phoenix at 115 degree ambient temps is putting different stress on their engine than someone who can run 93 on a 60 degree spring day in New England. Even different driving conditions can cause different stresses. Do you sit in traffic for a half hour heat soaking the engine before having to accelerate on to a highway? Do you spend more time in boost than another driver because of your driving style? Did you happen to get a bum tank of gas that was really closer to 89 than 91? These are all things that the OEM tune should be able to adapt to safely with only a change in performance. There's just increasing evidence that it cannot, not fully anyways. The tolerance window for safe operation just seems to be narrower than should be expected out of a vehicle in 2014. The EJ series is an ancient engine that is just ill equipped to put out the power that is being asked of it while maintaining modern emissions and fuel economy standards. Too many compromises had to be made to get it there and many owners are now feeling it in their pocketbooks.
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Dec 3, 2014 21:13
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jamal posted:Sounds like maybe something unplugged or loose, could be a leak in the intake system (maybe on the turbo inlet or a connected pcv line), o2 sensor not connected all the way, or dead o2, or loose ground. Since you have the plastic manifold all the grounds on the fuel injector brackets. I remember one time I put new injectors on an 08 wrx and was wondering why it wouldn't start when I was done. I had left a ground undone on the back of the manifold. I appreciate the info on the ground location jamal, I'll give everything a good clean before doing anything else. I'm ordering a bluetooth OBDII transmitter and will check the sensor's health with Torque, which should hopefully give me some more info. Can the sensor be cleaned, or is it hosed if it made contact with coolant? I'm at 115k miles btw.
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Dec 3, 2014 21:33
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bull3964 posted:The OEM tune should have allowances for parts that wear and age as well as allowances that adapt to environmental circumstances. That's what we mean when we say it's tuned too close to the edge. Once again, have you taken a look at the open and closed loop tables? That's some pretty broad speculation. The ECU logic dictates scaling just fine. This motor handles power well with spec tolerances as designed. Where are you finding data for any of these claims? If it all boils down to a flawed tune in your eyes, why not just get as conservative of a tune as you see fit, to better protect your trims during closed to open loop transition and call it a day?
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Dec 3, 2014 22:11
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adnam posted:Good news everybody! Ended up finding the set of Wintersport 3Ds I loaned to family in the garage so now set for snow/ice, woop. Depends for what. Warranty work? Dealer for sure - I use Evanston Subaru, though I'd not recommend them. For non-warranty "major" work I take it to APM in Villa Park. Mark used to be one of the managers at P&L back when they were more reputable, and now runs things down there.
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Dec 3, 2014 23:19
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McSpatula posted:If it all boils down to a flawed tune in your eyes, why not just get as conservative of a tune as you see fit, to better protect your trims during closed to open loop transition and call it a day?
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Dec 3, 2014 23:27
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If I was still at a shop I'd offer free leakdown tests to anyone with a completely stock sti. Might get a few rebuilds out of an experiment like that.
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Dec 4, 2014 00:48
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Strictly as a thought experiment: Would it be stupid to swap an EJ257 into my 05 Forester? I've been yearning for more fun lately but I love my forester sooooo much and I don't have garage space for a funsies car. Would that engine swap be a nightmare?
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Dec 4, 2014 03:54
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Wiring is a bitch in any swap, plus the usual "small" kind of things for a swap (like having to run a different upper rad hose to make clearance for the slightly longer AVCS-equipped engine so the power steering belt doesn't chew up the rad hose and fill your engine bay with delicious maple syrup poison). I think it can be done. The opportunity cost on doing so is probably more than it would be just to pay the premium for a suitable Forester XT instead.
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Dec 4, 2014 03:58
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Yeah, you could, but it's a pain in the rear end and would probably cost more then selling the car and buying an xt. I've always wanted to swap a gc, but at this point I'd rather just buy a used sti over dealing with all the work, and finding a decent car and a drivetrain to put in it.
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Dec 4, 2014 04:21
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nm posted:That is what I've done and recommend. Agreed, of my 08 Legacy 2.5GT and my 09 spec.B, both stock tunes had knock detected, enough to be noticeable driving and visible from the IAM being less than 1. Had tuners do conservative tunes for both of them, makes the car a lot easier to drive and probably keeps them from blowing up pistons. Time will tell.
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Dec 4, 2014 04:27
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Thanks guys. That's what I figured. I didn't realize the XT used the EJ255. It should be easy to find performance upgrades for it then, eh?
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Dec 4, 2014 05:15
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You pretty much can throw a stone at a pool of vendors and walk away with whatever you need. Plenty out there.
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Dec 4, 2014 05:32
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There is no point swapping a chassis if it came from the factory in a trim level you want. Sell your junk and get an XT, then buy all your performance parts from jamal and have fun.
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Dec 4, 2014 14:21
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Im not sure if I ever posted this, but my rhd Legacy is coming along rather nicely! The insides of the doors are painted, along with some other parts now. Almost ready to be sprayed. Picked up some JDM parts as well:   
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Dec 4, 2014 17:03
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is it a LHD car you're converting to RHD?
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Dec 4, 2014 19:52
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Better-than-a-Baja:
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Dec 4, 2014 20:35
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Is that an exaust stack in the back? Please tell me it is. 
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Dec 4, 2014 21:55
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I've got a squeaking coming from my front driver's side wheel well. I assume it's part of the suspension because it mostly squeaks when the car is jiggling during/after bumps or acceleration. It started either after I jacked up the whole front to replace the front passenger cv axle or after the garage did an alignment. Any ideas?
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Dec 4, 2014 23:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I've got a squeaking coming from my front driver's side wheel well. I assume it's part of the suspension because it mostly squeaks when the car is jiggling during/after bumps or acceleration. It started either after I jacked up the whole front to replace the front passenger cv axle or after the garage did an alignment. Any ideas? Sounds like a swaybar endlink but it wouldn't be associated with those repairs (I think).
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Dec 4, 2014 23:31
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VelociBacon posted:is it a LHD car you're converting to RHD? No sir, its an original RHD car. This is the only photo I took of the inside, the day I got it before the work started: 
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Dec 5, 2014 00:43
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VelociBacon posted:Sounds like a swaybar endlink but it wouldn't be associated with those repairs (I think). One of my friends suggested that, one thing I forgot to mention was the front passenger ball joint separated while the front was jacked up. When I first drove it after I set it down, it made it about 20 feet before the front passenger wheel jerked forward. We got it back together, could the endlink have snapped from that? Would I have to do a whole new sway bar or just the end link? I'll take a look underneath when it isn't dark out.
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Dec 5, 2014 01:31
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McSpatula posted:Is that an exaust stack in the back? Please tell me it is.
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Dec 5, 2014 02:40
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CLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdL43CZy9Mw I hate winter.
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Dec 5, 2014 03:33
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Fifty Three posted:CLACKCLACKCLACKCLACKCLACK How much faster did that ~*BLITZ*~ oil cap make the car go?
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Dec 5, 2014 04:25
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Blame the PO for that and the terrible, terrible camouflage piping.
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Dec 5, 2014 05:36
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Sounds fine to me. Also my oil cap is cooler: 
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Dec 5, 2014 06:23
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I've been baffled the last few years why my '08 LGT feels like it is struggling when starting in the teens Fahrenheit. Has a battery less than year old. I drive it a couple times a week for a 72 mile round trip. It has never not started, but I used to own a diesel golf that would start quickly in 20 below and the slow starter on the LGT always strikes me as strange. It takes several seconds to catch and it spins over so drat slow. WTF?
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Dec 5, 2014 06:40
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Fifty Three posted:Blame the PO for that and the terrible, terrible camouflage piping. Hahaha, no worries, I couldn't resist poking fun 
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Dec 5, 2014 07:01
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Terminus Est posted:I've been baffled the last few years why my '08 LGT feels like it is struggling when starting in the teens Fahrenheit. Has a battery less than year old. I drive it a couple times a week for a 72 mile round trip. It has never not started, but I used to own a diesel golf that would start quickly in 20 below and the slow starter on the LGT always strikes me as strange. It takes several seconds to catch and it spins over so drat slow. WTF? My '13 WRX does the same thing - I talked to the dealership about it and they said it's just a Subaru thing, and has nothing to do with battery/alternator.
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Dec 5, 2014 12:40
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