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Wengy posted:I‘m an existing E-M1 user and shooting sharp 1 second pictures hand-held with the 12-100 will never cease to blow my mind. Huh. I had always thought Panasonic's IBIS beat Oly's but maybe not? 1 sec exposure with no shake is pretty good... I need to experiment, but I don't think my G95 can do that. edit: page snipe!!! since we're talking about old sensors here's a moving car snapshot from my new (to me) Fuji X-Pro 1 with the XF 16mm f2.8 WR at f6.4, straight out of camera JPEG  anything around 16mp and up is all fine imo look how nice those rails look! wolfs fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Mar 10, 2020 |
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Mar 10, 2020 22:24
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Olympus has always had the better IBIS and had it before Panasonic far as I know.
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Mar 10, 2020 22:31
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Yes, originally Olympus went with IBIS in the e-520 regular four thirds camera, and Panasonic focused on in lens stabilization all the way until the GX8 Now that both systems support dual IS, Panasonic is reaping some benefit from having a wider range of IS lenses, but as far as I know Olympus is still the king of IBIS.
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Mar 11, 2020 05:47
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I didn't get the GFX 50 R since i got scared off by the humongous lenses and their pricetags, but I need to replace the old XPro-1, as its slow af is slow af X-T4 is in budget but it's a lot for a new APS-C camera. Is FF that much better?
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Mar 11, 2020 23:24
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Malcolm XML posted:I didn't get the GFX 50 R since i got scared off by the humongous lenses and their pricetags, but I need to replace the old XPro-1, as its slow af is slow af X-T3 with battery grip is $1300 https://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-X-T...&language=en_US
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Mar 11, 2020 23:34
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bloops posted:X-T3 with battery grip is $1300 hmmmmmm $400 is enough for me to get a new battery and IBIS....and a battery grip is too chufty but that's a good deal, the x-t3 is basically the x-t4 - IBIS and battery
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Mar 12, 2020 04:30
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Malcolm XML posted:hmmmmmm $400 is enough for me to get a new battery and IBIS....and a battery grip is too chufty If you don't mind used, you can get an X-T3 for under 1K or maybe even less. Purely based on "financial sense" I think that's the best move. If you're doing a lot of video though (and if this would be your main or only video camera) I think the X-T4 is probably worth it. Or if you just want to have the best thing, I get that too.
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Mar 12, 2020 04:37
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grahm posted:If you don't mind used, you can get an X-T3 for under 1K or maybe even less. Purely based on "financial sense" I think that's the best move. If you're doing a lot of video though (and if this would be your main or only video camera) I think the X-T4 is probably worth it. Or if you just want to have the best thing, I get that too. I'd pounce on an X-t3 since I only rarely do video, but the IBIS is really kind of attractive. Having 5-6stops of extra flexibility is v nice. Maybe I'll wait another year or two until the X-t5 drops and upgrade to the x-t4 then
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Mar 12, 2020 04:42
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Ibis is nice because when someone else who doesn't have lots of gear has a go with your camera the picture will look a lot better than otherwise
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Mar 12, 2020 08:37
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Ibis is very useful with vintage glass too.
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Mar 12, 2020 13:42
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I wouldn't be surprised if the x-t4 shipment date gets pushed back or shipped in limited quantity. IBIS has obvious advantages for video, or if you are using unstabilized telephoto lenses a lot, but probably doesn't matter for most people and most types of shooting. For long exposures it can be convenient but will never match a tripod, and in many use cases movement in the scene becomes an issue before hand shake anyway.
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Mar 12, 2020 15:10
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Xabi posted:Don't take him too seriously IMO, he's just suffering from GAS. gently caress, you got me  Yeah, it’s probably just GAS, I saw that Canon RF 85 1.2 and was wowed. The E-M1 III just seems so pedestrian in comparison.
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Mar 12, 2020 15:56
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Taking selfies in the mirror, I’m astounded by how much more ‘digital’ and lifeless the sooc jpegs from my D600 look compared to my X-T2. (I- I take pictures of other people too! I just always try to make sure they’re in good light, and that evens out the differences. Under basic interior CFLs the contrast is pretty stark.)
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Mar 13, 2020 03:13
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New (to me) A7RII day! It was between that and the A7III, but in the end the lower price and extra megapickles were just too appealing. I'm used to all the Sony 2nd gen quirks. Anyone got tips for handling this flawed beast? I usually shoot the A7II but can already feel all the little upgrades (besides the sensor which is just crazy good). Also: my gf wanted to get into photography (wildlife and travel) so I found her a good deal on an EM-10 II with kit lens and the 40-150, plus a used Panny 20mm. Holy poo poo it's a great little system! What's the best wide or wideish lenses at the budget end? A nice little 24mm equivalent pancake would be the dream.
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Mar 13, 2020 05:04
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There is a 28mm equiv pancake, but anything at 24mm equivalent is going to be a bit bigger. The oly 12mm f2.0 is probably your best bet.
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Mar 13, 2020 07:00
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The Lumix 14mm is great, tiny and cheap.
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Mar 13, 2020 09:54
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powderific posted:Resolution isn’t the only thing that makes an image though, and while the workarounds Olympus has come up with are really cool they’re not as flexible as just having a better sensor. Dynamic range is one area, outside the world of cinema cameras anyway, where the newer/bigger/better sensors do better and I think it’s pretty noticeable in images even if people don’t seem to focus on as it much in photography. And that’s also a domain where medium format and full frame cameras have usually had an advantage over smaller sensors even when the Olympus sensor came out. Dynamic range is (at least fundamentally) determined by signal to noise ratio. Which, in turn (especially for modern sensors) is mostly a function of photon shot noise, i.e. how many photons did you collect*. Oly's "High-res mode" (and pretty much any other supersampling technique) composite together multiple exposures after slightly translating the sensor in the image plane, which doesn't just increase the resolution of the resulting image--it significantly increases the amount of light collected and therefore improves SNR. A supersampled image composited from 8x exposures will have sqrt(8) ~ 2.8x better (shot) SNR--equivalent to a single exposure (under the same conditions) from a sensor area 2.8x as large. This improves the effective dynamic range of a 225 sq. mm m43 sensor to be "equivalent" to a hypothetical 630 sq. mm sensor, so, just shy of full frame, significantly better than APS-C, still 3-4 times smaller than MF. In a similar way, it should also be noted that for exposures where subject motion is not an issue (i.e. the only shots where supersampling / "high-res mode" make sense to begin with), you can achieve--in principle--an arbitrarily good dynamic range just by taking multiple exposures and averaging them together (after aligning if needed). Most landscape/architecture photographers don't usually exploit this despite it being easy to do...in part because dynamic range off a single exposure is usually good enough (i.e. far better than the dynamic range of the viewing medium and sufficient for adjusting whites or shadows by a couples stops or more). But at the end of the day, a larger sensor will collect more photons in a shorter time, without needing to resort to extensive post processing and multiple exposure, and it will always generate a very high resolution image (even at small apertures where diffraction limits supersampling). Is that worth the much higher cost and weight and size of the equipment? Depends on what you are shooting, whether it's moving or not, and your particular needs & priorities. *This is a simplification but a pretty accurate one unless you are shooting in very dark conditions or with very long exposures (even then it's pretty good).
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Mar 16, 2020 08:02
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So i'm trying to decide between one of the cheaper Sony a6xxx series and an Olympus E-M5 II. Is the larger sensor/higher megapixel count/low light perf a better upgrade than the IBIS? I usually shoot street snaps and sometimes portraits, almost exclusively handheld with fast primes. I'm leaning Olympus but 16mp and at micro 4/3 seems kinda janky in 2020 and I'd like to blow some poo poo up BIG. Any opinions will help, thanks  muckswirler fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Mar 16, 2020 |
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Mar 16, 2020 21:57
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muckswirler posted:So i'm trying to decide between one of the cheaper Sony a6xxx series and an Olympus E-M5 II. Is the larger sensor/higher megapixel count/low light perf a better upgrade than the IBIS? I usually shoot street snaps and sometimes portraits, almost exclusively handheld with fast primes. I'm leaning Olympus but 16mp and at micro 4/3 seems kinda janky in 2020 and I'd like to blow some poo poo up BIG. Any opinions will help, thanks Body-to-Body, the A6500 is only a tad more expensive than the E-M5 II and also has IBIS. Newer sensor tech, larger sensor, and higher resolution. It's also a tad smaller. But then again, I like Sony.
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Mar 16, 2020 22:02
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muckswirler posted:So i'm trying to decide between one of the cheaper Sony a6xxx series and an Olympus E-M5 II. Is the larger sensor/higher megapixel count/low light perf a better upgrade than the IBIS? I usually shoot street snaps and sometimes portraits, almost exclusively handheld with fast primes. I'm leaning Olympus but 16mp and at micro 4/3 seems kinda janky in 2020 and I'd like to blow some poo poo up BIG. Any opinions will help, thanks While this doesn't really tie into the whole "handheld street snaps and sometimes portraits" aspect, the em5 ii is capable of Oly's high res mode, which can produce 50mpx images for blowin' poo poo up BIG. If you want to do the high res handheld, you'll need the bigger em1 iii, or the even BIGGER em1x. As someone who shoots mostly on an em10 ii, which I think has the same sensor and slightly worse IBIS than the em5 ii, I've never found the low light performance limiting. Images come out sharp and properly exposed, but it doesn't work miracles - I can get down to about 1/4~1/8 shutter speed handheld pretty safely, but any slower is risky. This obviously isn't great if you're trying to snap moving objects or people on the street in low light situations unless they're stationary, but it's still a big help imo. I always forget my Ricoh GR doesn't have IBIS and wind up frustrated at blurry shots at like 1/16.
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Mar 16, 2020 22:42
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Think about your full kit not just the body. Some of the smaller/older/more affordable Sony lenses have a bad reputation, but both systems have a pretty wide selection. I really don't like the ergonomics on the Sony bodies I have used, but you should check them out in person yourself if possible. The difference between 16mp and 24mp isn't that big of a linear resolution bump, and even if you are making large prints you typically don't view a large print as closely as a small one. An extra stop off high iso performance helps but it really is an edge case for most people and most shooting. I didn't find full frame or ibis really make a huge difference, but getting an off camera flash or tripod does. Look at buying used or refurbished no matter what you do.
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Mar 16, 2020 23:08
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They are both capable cameras, however, the MFT system lends itself to some really good and really cheap lenses. Con: How much longer will Lens makers keep producing for the system? Sony also has good lenses, with more options available from third parties like Sigma and Tamron. Con: They will usually come at a higher price tag. muckswirler posted:So i'm trying to decide between one of the cheaper Sony a6xxx series and an Olympus E-M5 II. Is the larger sensor/higher megapixel count/low light perf a better upgrade than the IBIS? I usually shoot street snaps and sometimes portraits, almost exclusively handheld with fast primes. I'm leaning Olympus but 16mp and at micro 4/3 seems kinda janky in 2020 and I'd like to blow some poo poo up BIG. Any opinions will help, thanks
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Mar 16, 2020 23:10
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Sony's APS-C lens range is pretty limited so unless you wanna pay for full frame glass you'll have a lot better options with mft or fuji. I'm still very happy with the images from my 16mp GR next to my full frame 24mp and 36mp bodies, so the resolution isn't necessarily a dealbreaker. Never printed anything that big off the GR though and I don't feel like I can crop in any unless it's just for instagram.
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Mar 16, 2020 23:44
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XBenedict posted:They are both capable cameras, however, the MFT system lends itself to some really good and really cheap lenses. Con: How much longer will Lens makers keep producing for the system? On the other hand, if the lenses available now are good, does it matter that much if lens makers stop producing for it? Yeah eventually they'll start to suffer in terms of AF speed and whatever other new features come in the future, but you can get a few really good lenses for the system for <$1k and I can't imagine those lasting any less than 5-6+ more years, probably more.
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Mar 17, 2020 00:08
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The market for used gear doesn't bottom out suddenly. There are four thirds lenses that still cost as much used as the micro four thirds equivalents. It can take time to get the most value back out, but it isn't bad. The real money sink is is always being dissatisfied with your gear.
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Mar 17, 2020 00:32
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Guys can your cameras do AEL with manual Aperture and SS, but auto ISO? My Fujifilm can't do it. What the hell.
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Mar 17, 2020 02:21
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Fools Infinite posted:The real money sink is is always being dissatisfied with your gear. This should be the thread title for every thread in The Dorkroom.
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Mar 17, 2020 07:16
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Thoren posted:Guys can your cameras do AEL with manual Aperture and SS, but auto ISO? Which fuji? I'm pretty sure mine can.. **edit** my x-pro2 can, just tested it. sildargod fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Mar 17, 2020 |
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Mar 17, 2020 08:05
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Very helpful! I think I'll probably roll with the olympus and go from there. Thanks!
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Mar 17, 2020 13:08
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sildargod posted:Which fuji? I'm pretty sure mine can.. Did you do AFL or AEL? I have the X100V and it won't work.
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Mar 17, 2020 19:19
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Thoren posted:Guys can your cameras do AEL with manual Aperture and SS, but auto ISO? My X-T2 will lock the exposure if I have it set a half-press shutter button but won't if I use the AEL button. It seems like it doesn't even try to work out what ISO to use until the shutter button is half-pressed so there is nothing to lock if you just use AEL. I never use the AEL button so had never noticed till now.
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Mar 17, 2020 19:44
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Biblical loving posted:My X-T2 will lock the exposure if I have it set a half-press shutter button but won't if I use the AEL button. It seems like it doesn't even try to work out what ISO to use until the shutter button is half-pressed so there is nothing to lock if you just use AEL. Yeah I was just reminded that I had my AEL button set to configure the self-timer. But I tested on my X-H1 and it's the same as your X-T2. I've always been a little unclear why Auto ISO doesn't shift on the fly like shutter and aperture do when they're in their respective auto modes. It would make auto ISO a lot more trustworthy to me if I could see the value move in real time.
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Mar 17, 2020 19:51
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Thoren posted:Guys can your cameras do AEL with manual Aperture and SS, but auto ISO? X-T1 definitely behaves the same way. Kind of annoying but I guess the consolation is if your photo is too dark or light purely due to the camera not adjusting ISO the way you wanted it to, this is easy to address in post. So unless you are for some reason taking a lot of shots this way its not a big deal. But yes, I think it's dumb for the AE-L button metering to not behave exactly the same as shutter half-press metering.
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Mar 18, 2020 11:20
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Thoren posted:Did you do AFL or AEL? I actually tested incorrectly.. it does do ael with manual iso though, that's an odd limitation. I'll test with my xt3 tonight, but I suspect it's going to do the same.
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Mar 18, 2020 15:05
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OK - been doing a lot of research and was hoping for some advice. I am in the market for a sub 1k camera for photogrammetry (photo scanning). Mostly this means very high resolution but I also need something that will do decent video. So far I have narrowed it down to the Canon EOS M50 Fujifilm X-T20 ...or a Sony 7R II at a stretch. ... If I can find one used for under 1k. The Sony is preferred because of the whopping 42 megapixel. Hard to find any cameras over 24 mp which are under 1k pricetag. If I go this route I would have to get the body with one paycheck and save up for the lens however. How important is the full frame sensor for photogrammetry? Camera shutter shake seems to be a problem for photogrammetry so I definitely want to go mirrorless. Some of the compact mirrorless cameras are impressive but they don't have the "feel" of the Nikon or Canon DSLRs. The Nikon D850 and the Sony 7R III and now IV seem to be high end standards for photogrammetry but I can't justify the price tag. Considering the Nikon D5600 or even the old D5300 as cheaper / older alternatives but I was really wanting to jump ship from Nikon to either Sony or Canon. Currently I have an old Nikon 3100 which works well enough for every day stuff but not the best for photogrammetry. Much more noise than the D5300 for example. Here is an example I made using the D5600. The results were pretty good IMO but also uh... almost 80 photos. Still some noise under the neck / in the shadows etc. 
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Mar 19, 2020 05:37
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sigma 6 posted:OK - been doing a lot of research and was hoping for some advice. I am in the market for a sub 1k camera for photogrammetry (photo scanning). Mostly this means very high resolution but I also need something that will do decent video. So far I have narrowed it down to the I see A7R II on EBay all the time for around $600. There are like 10 on there right now. If you wanted the A7R III, there are several under $1k. You didn’t mention your lens needs, so it’s hard to take that into consideration.
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Mar 19, 2020 06:25
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Yeah - the lens thing is really a bit weird because even though I want something like Leica, the reality is the lens should be chosen not based on brand but the size of what I am scanning. Normally I don't scan anything larger than a human so wide angle lenses may be a waste of money. The A7R II is the one which is 42 megapixels. As far as I know neither the A7 III or the original A7 II have that kind of resolution. They are both 24 mp I believe. Not sure why the R variant has so many more pixels over the A7 II or A7 III but that's primarily why it is so tempting to me. The Canon RP is just hovering around a grand but it is a 26mp camera whereas the Canon R is a 30mp camera for significantly more money. The Sony A7 II and III both seem to outperform the Canon R in a lot of ways though. Seems like the more I learn about mirrorless DSLR cameras, the more models I find. People like Sony a lot but they seem to be overall more expensive and less (more expensive) lens options available. Nikon and Canon have a dizzying number of models available but I feel like anything over 24mp is going to break my 1k celing. Especially if the lens is bought separate. sigma 6 fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Mar 19, 2020 |
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Mar 19, 2020 07:31
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Sony a7r original has got to be cheap as dirt now and 36 mp
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Mar 19, 2020 09:36
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sigma 6 posted:Yeah - the lens thing is really a bit weird because even though I want something like Leica, the reality is the lens should be chosen not based on brand but the size of what I am scanning. Normally I don't scan anything larger than a human so wide angle lenses may be a waste of money. The Sony alpha lineup is 7=base 7s=sensitivity (fewer, larger pixels for better light gathering) and 7r=resolution (biggest number of megapixels. I wouldn't get hung up too much on the lens, as long as it's sharp. All the photography stuff like bokeh, speed (smallest f number), colour rendering, feel, handling, etc. is probably going to be pretty irrelevant. I don't know much about Sony lenses, but it looks like they've got a 50mm macro for not much money that would probably be fit for purpose. That plus an A7Rii could probably be had for under $1k.
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Mar 19, 2020 11:57
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Just a wild guess but I think the R in A7R stands for Resolution.
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Mar 19, 2020 11:59
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