|
Thanks. Any downside to boy having a functional evap?
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2014 18:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
When replacing an axle, is a new oil seal on the trans (4AT) an absolute necessity, or can I get by without a new one for a while?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 01:43
|
|
|
I have never replaced an axle seal when switching axles, but that was with the standard transmissions and not the 4eat, but i doubt they'd be much different. If they're leaking then it's a different story.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 01:47
|
|
|
BIG HORNY COW posted:When replacing an axle, is a new oil seal on the trans (4AT) an absolute necessity, or can I get by without a new one for a while? As long as it's not leaking and you don't tear it during the install then no.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 02:12
|
|
|
I finally made the jump from running all seasons year round to summers all the time except when driving to the snow. When I go to the mountains, the drive is ~230 miles each way, but it doesn't usually drop below freezing until the last 50 miles or so (Bay Area to Tahoe). What would be good winter tires for this purpose? Something that won't wear out quickly driving highway speeds in 60 degree weather for a few hours before actually hitting winter conditions? Should I be looking at "Performance Winter / Snow" or just "Studless Ice & Snow"? The cheaper the better. Some notables from TireRack:
I've heard good things about Blizzaks. Are they worth the price? Also, does anyone know if 16" steelies will clear the front brakes on a 4th gen LGT? Doesn't sound like it, but if anyone knows from experience...
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 02:59
|
|
|
Sounds good. Also, what to do with the old axle? Torn boot and clicking while in or close to full lock. Can they be cleaned and repacked / rebooted if the joint is failing or are they pretty much trashed? Edit: Blizzaks are worth every penny. BIG HORNY COW fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Dec 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 03:03
|
|
|
Splinter posted:I finally made the jump from running all seasons year round to summers all the time except when driving to the snow. When I go to the mountains, the drive is ~230 miles each way, but it doesn't usually drop below freezing until the last 50 miles or so (Bay Area to Tahoe). What would be good winter tires for this purpose? Something that won't wear out quickly driving highway speeds in 60 degree weather for a few hours before actually hitting winter conditions? Should I be looking at "Performance Winter / Snow" or just "Studless Ice & Snow"? The cheaper the better.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 03:11
|
|
|
I have yet to run into anything the extremewintercontacts can't handle and they wear really well and are fine on the highway.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 03:17
|
|
|
BIG HORNY COW posted:Sounds good. Also, what to do with the old axle? Torn boot and clicking while in or close to full lock. Can they be cleaned and repacked / rebooted if the joint is failing or are they pretty much trashed? I pitch the fuckers in the trash. You can re-boot them but as far as I know nobody makes a replacement Subaru CV joint.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 03:18
|
|
|
Splinter posted:I finally made the jump from running all seasons year round to summers all the time except when driving to the snow. When I go to the mountains, the drive is ~230 miles each way, but it doesn't usually drop below freezing until the last 50 miles or so (Bay Area to Tahoe). What would be good winter tires for this purpose? Something that won't wear out quickly driving highway speeds in 60 degree weather for a few hours before actually hitting winter conditions? Should I be looking at "Performance Winter / Snow" or just "Studless Ice & Snow"? The cheaper the better. The lgt needs 17s. nm fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Dec 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 04:25
|
|
|
Nokians are just an utter pain in the rear end to actually get.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 05:26
|
|
|
But they are amazing. Had Hakkapelita Q's and R and they were perfect for winter, I've drunk the nokian koolaid and I'm hooked. Currently have the Bridgestone blizzak ws70's on my subie and they're comparable to the nokians in terms of grip but they supposedly don't last nearly as long. Tracking down nokians is a little tough though (wish tire rack would carry them)
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 05:34
|
|
|
BIG HORNY COW posted:Edit: Blizzaks are worth every penny. Spicy Guacamole posted:I did a 4,756 mi trip across the country on Blizzaks. They'll do just fine on the highway. Thirding this, I have them on for about 4 months a year and I'm only in the actual snow about a week or two the whole time. They're quiet on pavement and have great dry grip, the snow grip of course is absurdly good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 05:54
|
|
|
Gigi Galli posted:Thirding this, I have them on for about 4 months a year and I'm only in the actual snow about a week or two the whole time. They're quiet on pavement and have great dry grip, the snow grip of course is absurdly good. The problem is that it is 80F for 80mi in each direction of his trip, which will destroy any real snow tire pretty quick. WRs are actually designed for this situation as they can deal with 100F and -20. Every Americas/Discount Tire can get Nokians. nm fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Dec 23, 2014 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 07:03
|
|
|
What's a good quasi off-road tire for a Forester? I'm not looking for a chunky BFG but more a highway M+S that can work well on dirt and rocks and maybe a little snow.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 07:16
|
|
|
nm posted:Every Americas/Discount Tire can get Nokians. Which doesn't exist in a lot of places. I know I don't have one within 100 miles. Their website doesn't have any partner installers so I would have to have them shipped to me first and search around for an installer who will do byot rather than just drop ship to a recommended installer that's a tirerack partner. Not impossible, but annoying on top of the premium price. I investigated getting WRs when I first got my '11, but it just wasn't worth the hassle when I could get decent full on winters for about $100 a corner.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 07:28
|
|
|
Guy who was asking is in norcal, where there is one every block. Also, Nokian does have a locator. They are expensive, I agree, but worth it
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 07:50
|
|
|
well poo poo, i just found a heap of rust along the weld at the very bottom of the front passenger door. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 08:17
|
|
|
Splinter posted:I finally made the jump from running all seasons year round to summers all the time except when driving to the snow. When I go to the mountains, the drive is ~230 miles each way, but it doesn't usually drop below freezing until the last 50 miles or so (Bay Area to Tahoe). What would be good winter tires for this purpose? Something that won't wear out quickly driving highway speeds in 60 degree weather for a few hours before actually hitting winter conditions? Should I be looking at "Performance Winter / Snow" or just "Studless Ice & Snow"? The cheaper the better. I'm in the same situation. I just got a set of Pirelli SottoZero 3's and they're fantastic. I was up there just recently when it was coming down and the tires performed great. They're also great on the roads down here.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 08:59
|
|
|
Thanks for the tire chat. I'll call up America's Tire and see what the deal is with Nokians. If that doesn't work out, it sounds like Blizzaks would be a safe bet.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 11:09
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:What's a good quasi off-road tire for a Forester? I'm not looking for a chunky BFG but more a highway M+S that can work well on dirt and rocks and maybe a little snow. The Rallycross guys all swear by Firestone Winterforces because the tread pattern is similar to Rally tires.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 12:33
|
|
|
Vitamin J posted:What's a good quasi off-road tire for a Forester? I'm not looking for a chunky BFG but more a highway M+S that can work well on dirt and rocks and maybe a little snow. General Grabber AT2s is more of a light truck tire that can work in snow. Winterforce is a cheap option as suggested but they don't last in the heat as well as an AT.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 14:57
|
|
|
daslog posted:The Rallycross guys all swear by Firestone Winterforces because the tread pattern is similar to Rally tires. They're too soft. You have to massively overinflate them to RallyX on them to get any sort of sidewall stiffness. I wouldn't do it on the street for any minutes. I also kept debeading them. The WRs are kind of an all-seasony snow, which will definitely be fine for his cali-portion of the trip, but I don't know how bad of snow he's dealing with in the mountains. Never done it myself. They aren't all that great once you really get into the poo poo. They're a good ice tire, but never found them to be much of a snow tire. Agree with bull on the Conti - though as with any dedicated snow, it's going to wear quickly in warm temps on the highway. 4000 miles is of course fine, but based on the driving as described I wouldn't expect more than 15k of life out of them at the best.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 16:27
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:General Grabber AT2s is more of a light truck tire that can work in snow. Winterforce is a cheap option as suggested but they don't last in the heat as well as an AT.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2014 22:31
|
|
|
How much of a fire hazard would you guys say it is to remove the heat shields before the y-pipe on an outback? I've tried every combination of welding and hose clamps I can think of but it still manages to start loving rattling again after a while. gently caress galvanic corrosion.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2014 00:32
|
|
|
If you do that I'd just heat wrap the appropriate components in that area.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2014 00:57
|
|
|
Heat wrap will work to isolate heat. It will also rust out the exhaust faster if you live in a salt state. I used to hose clamp my heat shields down, now I use a washer, press the washer against the shield, and weld through the eye of it to something that's still solid on the car. Ghetto but works. The gas tank shield was ripped off during my state inspection on my RS. They removed it because it was partially broken off. I drove the car 2 hours north, ran it hard testing for about 50 miles, drove it two hours home, and then raced some hard miles before having to retire early. It didn't cause an issue, but I obviously can't say "yeah bro no heat shields near the tank no problemo!" for obvious reasons. I'm not sure what to tell you, remove it, get creative in reafixing your current one, order a new one from subaru genine parts, get a junkyard one, heat tape, summit inferno shield: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...WyKwaAlnf8P8HAQ I actually want to put some different heat shielding on the plastic tank guard on the race car because I'm going to be going bigger exhaust and tucking it up for next year.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2014 01:21
|
|
|
si posted:No, that sounds more like your trans is slipping or something. Don't know that anyone here will be much help with the auto trans other than "something's wrong" - but you already knew that. Even the dealers in my experience don't do much in the way of diagnostics of specific issues. More just "Yeah trans is bad, replace". Sorry, I meant just pure engine sound, sitting in the driveway in park. I think everything has sorted itself out now in my drivetrain department, just took some time for the ECU to re-learn. Transmission still has the occasional rough shift when taking off from stop signs or accelerating through 90 degree turns, but mostly has a smoother more confident shift. Now I need to get a balance. Between that and what I believe was the "ghost-walking" that these particular models are known for, my drive home tonight was a casual 45mph with the radio off so I could listen to the suspension. I can't wait to dig into this thing and root out all of its handling flaws.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2014 07:41
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Heat wrap will work to isolate heat. It will also rust out the exhaust faster if you live in a salt state. Well fortunately I don't live in a salt state and the shields in question are just the two on the underside facing the ground. My area makes up for no salt by being extremely flammable though which is why I asked. I'll just do a wrap then, thanks for the advice.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2014 18:56
|
|
|
My 04 WRX is at it again. Now the headlights make a pretty drastic dip in brightness when the AC compressor cycles, and sometimes just because as far as I can tell. I am suspecting the alternator may be on the way out. Is there a good way I can verify this? Some sort of multimeter wizardry? The battery is less than a year old and the car is a daily driver fwiw. I also have a mysterious coolant leak but drat if I can find it. The only symptom is that smell when I stop the car. No drop in the overflow tank level, and it seems to hit something hot as there is no residue I can find.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2014 20:11
|
|
|
Mercury Ballistic posted:My 04 WRX is at it again. Now the headlights make a pretty drastic dip in brightness when the AC compressor cycles, and sometimes just because as far as I can tell. I am suspecting the alternator may be on the way out. Is there a good way I can verify this? Some sort of multimeter wizardry? The battery is less than a year old and the car is a daily driver fwiw. You can can measure the voltage drop with a multi-meter across the battery. It should be around 13-14 volts when the car is running. Turn everything on and see how much the voltage drops. Your coolant leak might be where the rubber line goes into the turbo. It will drip onto the up-pipe when it leaks and make little puffs of smoke as each little drop hits it. You can use flashlight to see it. Have fun tightening that up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2014 20:53
|
|
|
Swapped out my black Rally Armor flaps for red ones.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 00:06
|
|
|
Now how are you gonna tell which one is yours at subaru meets? 
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 05:19
|
|
|
I know a guy that sells those. Pretty sure he gives goon discounts.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 05:53
|
|
|
Powershift posted:Now how are you gonna tell which one is yours at subaru meets?
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 08:15
|
|
|
Powershift posted:Now how are you gonna tell which one is yours at subaru meets? It will be tough, the car has almost reached peak Subaruness
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 18:53
|
|
|
Fuelslt1 posted:It will be tough, the car has almost reached peak Subaruness You've piqued me into making Subaru styled Saab 9-3.  I don't hate it. Yes, those are US style tails on a .SE car.
|
|
#
?
Dec 27, 2014 19:25
|
|
|
Replaced my driver's side axle today. Took about 2 hours and was way less painless than I was expecting. I was sure the axle was going to be seized in the hub but it just flopped right out without any effort. Probably the most time consuming part of the operation was getting the ball joint separated and then the new cotter pin inserted because the old one had to be drilled out.
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2014 03:27
|
|
|
It was warm today so I washed some of the road grime and other gross poo poo off the car. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 28, 2014 22:14
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 20:28 |
|
|
I'm probably going to be shopping for an early 00s Forester or Outback over the coming weeks. Likely with >100k mi. Any particular years/drivetrains I should avoid? What specific issues should I be on the lookout for?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2014 23:57
|
|
