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So I smashed out the working fog light on my 98 Outback being dumb in the snow, should I just pick up a used assembly or is there (hopefully) a better, brighter option out there I should be looking at?
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Jan 16, 2015 21:19
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Hella 500 with custom brackets.
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Jan 16, 2015 21:33
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Think my headgasket is going (overflow bottle overflowing). gently caress.
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Jan 17, 2015 23:56
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nm posted:Think my headgasket is going (overflow bottle overflowing). gently caress. Are you also overheating?
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Jan 18, 2015 00:05
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VelociBacon posted:Are you also overheating? I'm hoping it is something cheaper like a hosed rad cap, but I'm not that lucky. That said my HG only has like 45k mi on it (rebuilt motor).
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Jan 18, 2015 00:08
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Fluid stayed loving blue. Yay!
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Jan 19, 2015 19:43
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Air bubbles can push fluid around like crazy like that, and then collapse and leave you scratching your head. Maybe a bleed is in order?
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Jan 19, 2015 20:39
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If you've ever overheated your car, you should be replacing the rad caps.
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Jan 19, 2015 21:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you've ever overheated your car, you should be replacing the rad caps. I have not, but I did replace them anyhow, and same thing happened. I'm at the limit of what I can do in my apartment parking lot and just having it taken to a shop. Mechanic thinks the radiator may be blocked -- which if it can't be cleared would suck as I have a reasonably new Koyo -- but still not an HG.
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Jan 19, 2015 22:27
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I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x (WRX) with ~120k miles. I took it in today and the guy says I need the big routine maintenance (last done at 80k), timing belt, replacement of valve cover gaskets, and a few other things. The total estimate is 2,100 dollars. I had actually been thinking about selling this and am not sure what I should do. That is a lot of money on a 10 year old car I was considering selling anyway. Any idea what it is worth before repairs vs after? 2005 Saab 9-2x, silver, 5 speed, 125k miles, decent condition (couple faded paint spots, no rust, no body damage). KBB only says 6,200 but I look on craigslist all the time and never see one. How do I even sell a car that needs that much work?
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Jan 20, 2015 01:32
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Ribsauce posted:I have a 2005 Saab 9-2x (WRX) with ~120k miles. I took it in today and the guy says I need the big routine maintenance (last done at 80k), timing belt, replacement of valve cover gaskets, and a few other things. The total estimate is 2,100 dollars. I don't think you'll have too much of a problem. Every 100-130k Legacy/Outback I looked at was (over) due for a new timing belt/105k service. I imagine the same is true for Impreza-based cars. $2,100 sounds pretty steep though. Do Subaru specialists charge a Saab tax?
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Jan 20, 2015 01:46
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Boys who love boys
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monsterzero posted:I don't think you'll have too much of a problem. Every 100-130k Legacy/Outback I looked at was (over) due for a new timing belt/105k service. I imagine the same is true for Impreza-based cars. $2,100 sounds pretty steep though. Do Subaru specialists charge a Saab tax? Yeah, I think my timing belt service was quite a bit cheaper than that, and I got a Koyo radiator at the same time. Are you going to a dealer?
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Jan 20, 2015 02:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you've ever overheated your car, you should be replacing the rad caps. And the thermostat. They warp and stick.
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Jan 20, 2015 04:11
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nm posted:Yeah, I think my timing belt service was quite a bit cheaper than that, and I got a Koyo radiator at the same time. No a place called Turbotime that is very highly rated. It is for the timing belt, valve cover gaskets, and "90k" service per the estimate, although I guess it is really the 120k service. I think the timing belt is about 700 of the total cost. I guess my issue is if I spend 2k on maintenance I feel like I have to keep it 2 or 3 more years. But I am not sure if i can sell something which needs that much work.
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Jan 20, 2015 12:23
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Anyone k ow anything about safelite autoglass aftermakret windsheilds RE: that vs. OEM? Is their a difference? Ive got a 2014 wrx and the internet says oem is lighter/better than a normal imprezzan but safelite says their aftermarket is identical to the wrx onky it doesn't say subaru in the corner. Whats the disadvantage?
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Jan 20, 2015 18:27
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AcidRonin posted:Anyone k ow anything about safelite autoglass aftermakret windsheilds RE: that vs. OEM? Is their a difference? Ive got a 2014 wrx and the internet says oem is lighter/better than a normal imprezzan but safelite says their aftermarket is identical to the wrx onky it doesn't say subaru in the corner. Whats the disadvantage? I've had OEM and safelite in my 02 RS. Original died to a hood flying up and hitting it, but it was pitted to poo poo. Safelite threw a window in in my parents garage a few days before the event and no issues so far. Over a thousand miles of heavy offroad beatings and not a problem.
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Jan 20, 2015 18:38
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Slow is Fast posted:I've had OEM and safelite in my 02 RS. Original died to a hood flying up and hitting it, but it was pitted to poo poo. Safelite threw a window in in my parents garage a few days before the event and no issues so far. Over a thousand miles of heavy offroad beatings and not a problem. Well goon endorsement IS the best endorsement. gently caress new cars, i swear i am doubly anal about this thing because it still has a warranty.
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Jan 20, 2015 18:58
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Anything else I should replace while I'm swapping out the PCV on my 02 WRX? Also, I think I have a wheel bearing on the way out--is there any way to replace the front wheel bearing without having a shop press the bearing into the knuckle? I have one of those harbor freight FWD wheel bearing kits.
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Jan 20, 2015 18:59
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How is the BRZ in the snow and ice? I'm from Toronto and we get a mix of fresh snow, ice and slush all at the same time. I currently have a Subaru SVX which is AWD(more or less the same as first gen imprezas) with all seasons and I have gotten good at accelerating out of slides. With a decent set of winter tires, should I be concerned?
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Jan 20, 2015 19:32
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I had safelite replace the windshield in my '02 and I owned it for a year after that with no leaks or anything. After he installed, the guy asked me if there was ever a recall for the car around the windshield or if I was ever in an accident that twisted the A pillars. My answer was no to both. Apparently, the old windshield just popped right out. Like, zero resistance. Like it wasn't even glued down at all. He made it sound as if I could have launched my windshield by just braking very hard.
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Jan 20, 2015 19:35
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Two questions. 1.Where's the best place to order replacement weatherstripping? 2. Anyone have an old code alarm keyless entry remote laying around collecting dust? A GOH-M24 to be specific. They're all over eBay but id rather not pay like $30 in shipping for a 1oz piece of plastic that someone here could drop in a first class padded envelope for a few bucks
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Jan 20, 2015 23:17
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BIG HORNY COW posted:2. Anyone have an old code alarm keyless entry remote laying around collecting dust? A GOH-M24 to be specific. They're all over eBay but id rather not pay like $30 in shipping for a 1oz piece of plastic that someone here could drop in a first class padded envelope for a few bucks
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Jan 21, 2015 00:01
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Yeah the fob but I realize I forgot to mention its for a 98 outback. The GOH-M24 keyfob is the square 2 button codealarm one for most of the late 90s models. There's another FCC ID that works too: GOH-MM6
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Jan 21, 2015 01:08
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I got a safelite windshield last winter. It is all wavy and distorted near the rearview and has some other weird optics on the edge, but they waived my $100 deductible so I figured whatever. It also scratched while sweeping snow off, not sure how that happened. Like a 2' long line in the center of my vision.
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Jan 21, 2015 01:15
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 Nuke nasioc holy gently caress. e: mmm.
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Jan 21, 2015 04:51
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Anyone have any pointers on what I should be looking for here: 2000 Impreza GF8, EJ20 n/a 5spd. Starting when temps dropped to about 0 centigrade last weekend, there's a noticeable jerking (from the car, people) on full throttle acceleration which occurs consistently between 3800 and 4100 rpm. Also a more noticeable jerking that's almost a hop or a judder, usually around 2,000 rpm in slow left hand corners near full lock, like when taking a corner at a junction. This goes away as rpms rise and lock is wound off. No unusual tranny noises - perhaps the occasional quiet low speed clunk at full lock which might just be the hosed up undertray or might be an ancient control arm bushing, also a bit of tyre or slightly old wheel bearing noise above 50mph. Transmission and rear diff had fresh lube only about 5k ago. I just checked the trans. dipstick after a 22 mile commute and the oil was crystal clear with no smell and not even warm - it was however right on the dipstick's low limit. Front CV boots seem fine (both have been replaced previously due to splitting and making GBS threads grease everywhere), the rack is a year or two old and PS reservoir is at the normal level. Plugs are maybe 15k and a couple of year old factory spec NGKs. Car doesn't pull to one side or otherwise handle unusually. Last time I had a tiny bit of hesitation in the midrange it was about the time the plugs were due for replacement anyway, and after replacing them it went away. Thinking this is probably something in the driveline however, as the engine pulls and responds to throttle inputs fine, if that makes any sense (it also had camshaft, tensioner, idlers and water pump done a few thousand miles ago). It could actually be front wheel hop I guess, but this is always at the same RPM and the car doesn't do it more on wet surfaces. Other than the center diff starting to fail, which would suck, could this be one of the engine/tranny mounts failing? I have notice something akin to driveline shunt when trickling along in 1st in traffic over the last few months. Like a bike with a knackered cush drive or my e30 when the guibo (propshaft center support bushing I think is the technical term) started to shrink. Have been thinking that might be the pitch mount dying, and I guess if that or one of the lower mounts is allowing transmission movement under power that could explain the problem? Other than "what might be hosed here", is it worth trying to add more transmission oil, or will "right on the low limit" be fine? I thought the key thing was not to get it above the full line and I'd be a bit nervous about inadvertently overfilling it. We're only talking ~115hp SOHC EJ20 power here. e: hmm, having done my best to reproduce the behaviour on my way home tonight, seems that it is actually more like gentle full throttle bogging/hesitation under load between 3-4k rpm in second and third, and the same but more severe under 2k RPM in second. Some googling suggests this is a Subaru "thing" with about 20 different parts that could be causing it. Great! Anyone have experience diagnosing this sort of condition, as opposed to just replacing every potential cause? Saga fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jan 22, 2015 |
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Jan 21, 2015 11:59
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Anyone know how the auto window switch works? I took my door panel off this weekend, and now the auto up/down doesn't work. It still functions fine if I hold the button.
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Jan 21, 2015 20:21
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http://imgur.com/W91nkQR My 04 wrx has had a burning smell coming through the vents since a clutch service about 2000 miles ago. Smell shows when car is warm and pulling away from a stop. No leaks seen. Thought it might be the clutch, but I really cant be sure. In the above pic, under the TMIC the hose clamp was loose. Could this be the cause of my phantom smell? What fluid goes past that connection anyway?
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Jan 21, 2015 22:11
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FogHelmut posted:Anyone know how the auto window switch works? I took my door panel off this weekend, and now the auto up/down doesn't work. It still functions fine if I hold the button. Depending on your exact car you can probably google the instructions for it. usually it's some weird poo poo like open it all the way and hold down for 3 more seconds then raise it all the way up for 5 seconds. Bam auto up/down works. Different makes take different voodoo, AFAIK.
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Jan 22, 2015 01:20
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Mercury Ballistic posted:http://imgur.com/W91nkQR I have no idea what that ?fluid is but maybe a previous owner tried to use some kind of glue/sealant to fix an intake leak there?
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Jan 22, 2015 01:59
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Totally TWISTED posted:Depending on your exact car you can probably google the instructions for it. usually it's some weird poo poo like open it all the way and hold down for 3 more seconds then raise it all the way up for 5 seconds. Bam auto up/down works. Yeah ended up getting it by holding the up button for about 10 seconds.
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Jan 22, 2015 02:02
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So I got my new windshield and I have a question, how do i tell if the wiper heating unit thing is working? The orange cos ALSO OH GOD I THINK ITS CREAKING OR I AM WAY TO ANAL 
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Jan 22, 2015 04:31
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AcidRonin posted:So I got my new windshield and I have a question, how do i tell if the wiper heating unit thing is working? The orange cos The glass under the orange coils should be warm to the touch after a minute or two of having the front/rear/mirror defroster on. If you're in a part of the country that's getting snow just leave off your climate control for a minute or two and see if the snow and ice melt around the wipers.
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Jan 22, 2015 05:05
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TheFrailNinja posted:The e-brake lever in my 06 outback is kind of sticky. If I yank it up and then put it back down, it seems to lose all tension until I wiggle it a few times with the button depressed and/or press the brake pedal a few times. Can I just replace the return spring, or should I look at the brake shoe assembly behind the rotor? Bumping this from the last page. I'm thinking about pulling off the rear brakes and checking the parking brake shoes. What should I expect when looking at the parking brake shoe assembly? I've seen on some youtube videos that say proper adjustment is letting the shoes jusssttt barely touch the hub. Is this correct? E: I also wanted to add that my rear passenger side wheel bearing is pretty hosed. How much will this affect the brake assemblies back there? I always felt like my car had a kind of drag on it, like it doesn't coast as freely as it should when I take my foot off the gas. TheFrailNinja fucked around with this message at 20:07 on Jan 24, 2015 |
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Jan 24, 2015 20:03
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Forester got a check engine blinky for 10 seconds when I nailed it to hit an onramp today, after an hour of normal-ish driving. Taking it in for a code read, a 3 year old car shouldn't do that. Other than that, it's perfect and boring, just what we wanted.
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Jan 24, 2015 21:28
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I see a lot of people talking about WRXes and Forresters, but I've got my eye on a Legacy. I don't really want to pay close to 30 grand for the six cylinder, but the 2.5i "Premium" trim seems pretty decent for the money. Anyone in here driven or own one of the 2015s? Seeing as they supposedly use the same engine, opinions and thoughts from owners of 2014 and before would also be helpful. Only reason I'm asking here is that the car magazine reviews aren't very helpful, as it seems that only things with sport suspensions and 300+ horsepower under the hood seem to curry their attention and favor. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Jan 25, 2015 |
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Jan 25, 2015 06:53
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Do subarus have what qualifies as a cramped engine bay? I have only ever worked on this car, so I have nothing to compare it to. I keep having to take unrelated poo poo apart to get to stuff, though.
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Jan 26, 2015 01:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Do subarus have what qualifies as a cramped engine bay? I have only ever worked on this car, so I have nothing to compare it to. I keep having to take unrelated poo poo apart to get to stuff, though. Yes. My 05 WRX, literally no empty space.
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Jan 26, 2015 02:11
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Do subarus have what qualifies as a cramped engine bay? I have only ever worked on this car, so I have nothing to compare it to. I keep having to take unrelated poo poo apart to get to stuff, though. I've worked on worse and I've worked on better. I think that taking into account the modern trend of shrinking and compacting everything down for more usable passenger space you could have a much worse engine bay to work with.
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Jan 26, 2015 02:20
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I got used to it pretty quick. The 2.5 NAs have plenty of room once you get used to how it all goes together. The turbos, not so much.
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Jan 26, 2015 02:39
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