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spacetoaster
Feb 10, 2014

My front porch steps are super tall (8 inch steps) and I'm tearing them out and pouring new ones.

Is there any measurements for length and height that are generally considered good and easy to walk up for people?

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Subjunctive
Sep 12, 2006

✨sparkle and shine✨

I thought that was a building code issue.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


spacetoaster posted:

My front porch steps are super tall (8 inch steps) and I'm tearing them out and pouring new ones.

Is there any measurements for length and height that are generally considered good and easy to walk up for people?

Find out what code your local jurisdiction uses and make sure you adhere to that. Also, you may need a building permit and inspection. In my commercial building the risers are 6 inches and the treads are 11.5, which is pretty comfortable.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

spacetoaster posted:

My front porch steps are super tall (8 inch steps) and I'm tearing them out and pouring new ones.

Is there any measurements for length and height that are generally considered good and easy to walk up for people?

Around here, 8" is the max rise I believe. Generally, the shorter the rise and the wider the tread, the easier the steps are, to a point. If the steps would be super short and super wide, just do a ramp instead.

spacetoaster
Feb 10, 2014

glynnenstein posted:

Find out what code your local jurisdiction uses and make sure you adhere to that. Also, you may need a building permit and inspection. In my commercial building the risers are 6 inches and the treads are 11.5, which is pretty comfortable.

Yep! I called the inspection department and the dude says I can come by and he'll tell me exactly what I need to do.

Super-NintendoUser
Jan 16, 2004

COWABUNGERDER COMPADRES
Soiled Meat
I have a little side stoop with a door. I'd like to get a storm door for it. However, I know it's more convenient to have the hinges on the same side, so it's easier to lock/unlock the main door. Here's my setup:



The issue is that if I open it to the right, it'll block the steps. So I figure I can just pour some new steps on the left side. The right steps are a a little worse for wear anyways.

I'm curious if I can just build and pour the concrete steps right over the asphalt or do I need to get a gas saw and cut it all out? I figured I could even just bet some rebar, and hammer it in to the asphalt and it'd be pretty secure. What do you all think? Or should I just open the door to the left and not worry about it?

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I have a little side stoop with a door. I'd like to get a storm door for it. However, I know it's more convenient to have the hinges on the same side, so it's easier to lock/unlock the main door. Here's my setup:



The issue is that if I open it to the right, it'll block the steps. So I figure I can just pour some new steps on the left side. The right steps are a a little worse for wear anyways.

I'm curious if I can just build and pour the concrete steps right over the asphalt or do I need to get a gas saw and cut it all out? I figured I could even just bet some rebar, and hammer it in to the asphalt and it'd be pretty secure. What do you all think? Or should I just open the door to the left and not worry about it?

You can buy precast concrete steps.

Super-NintendoUser
Jan 16, 2004

COWABUNGERDER COMPADRES
Soiled Meat

BigFactory posted:

You can buy precast concrete steps.

I'll check that out, do I still need to remove the asphalt? I looked them up, but I'm not sure how the precast steps secure to the ground. I only need one step, the stoop is not that high.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I have a little side stoop with a door. I'd like to get a storm door for it. However, I know it's more convenient to have the hinges on the same side, so it's easier to lock/unlock the main door. Here's my setup:



The issue is that if I open it to the right, it'll block the steps. So I figure I can just pour some new steps on the left side. The right steps are a a little worse for wear anyways.

I'm curious if I can just build and pour the concrete steps right over the asphalt or do I need to get a gas saw and cut it all out? I figured I could even just bet some rebar, and hammer it in to the asphalt and it'd be pretty secure. What do you all think? Or should I just open the door to the left and not worry about it?
If you want new stairs--sure go with the right hand swing. But I've had left hand storm and right hand front doors before--not a problem unlocking and locking. Just easy to carry groceries and the like through... e: well not really big stuff! Can be tough to get big furniture through a LH/RH combo.

Big Nubbins
Jun 1, 2004

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I'm not sure how the precast steps secure to the ground.

By being really loving heavy. Or at least that's how the precast steps/landings are at my place. They haven't shifted in the ~10 years I've been there.

Edit: VVV Yep, I was just about to suggest that to retain the position on soil or asphalt. If you're on concrete, bolt some 2x4s just inside the hollow portion.

Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jul 13, 2018

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


You can often drive rebar or spikes into driveway asphalt to hold something in place, too. Especially near an edge where it hasn't been compressed much or if it's relatively new.

Super-NintendoUser
Jan 16, 2004

COWABUNGERDER COMPADRES
Soiled Meat

glynnenstein posted:

You can often drive rebar or spikes into driveway asphalt to hold something in place, too. Especially near an edge where it hasn't been compressed much or if it's relatively new.

That's the plan. I also have a small diamond wheel cutter and I'm going to cut a few groves into the ashphalt and side of the existing stoop so it won't shift. (The wheel isn't thick enough to cut a whole out).

WrenP-Complete
Jul 27, 2012

Okay two questions, one hopefully fast?

1. I think I read in this thread someone doing something to service a dryer that wasn't cleaning the lint trap. I can't figure out where I read that and I'm ready to be horrified.

(Longer) 2. Yard/garden has a (meadow) vole problem. Dog has started eating them like chicken nuggets. That's fine as long as she doesn't bring them in the house but it means we can't poison them. I've cleared out some of the brush where they used to hide after she tore up part of a retaining wall to get at them (like maybe 5 stones out of a pretty sturdy wall). How to repair retaining wall, keeping in mind that voles are in it? Does it need like... Grout? More of that black fabric I found other places in the garden from the previous owner? Is that even against voles or do they just use that for bedding? I understand that getting rid of the voles entirely probably won't happen since they are agricultural pests and we can't use rodenticide, but want to repair the retaining wall as best I can. I can provide pics if useful.

Thank you for wise advice, thread.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost
I've heard that Elephant Armor is pretty awesome stuff, but I haven't used it personally. A lot will depend on the materials comprising said retaining wall.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

WrenP-Complete posted:

Okay two questions, one hopefully fast?

1. I think I read in this thread someone doing something to service a dryer that wasn't cleaning the lint trap. I can't figure out where I read that and I'm ready to be horrified.


I was servicing my dryer that had some lint in the back due to a hole in the lint trap but I certainly clean it regularly (and the issue was a bad motor... Not lint.). That what you're remembering?

WrenP-Complete
Jul 27, 2012

BonoMan posted:

I was servicing my dryer that had some lint in the back due to a hole in the lint trap but I certainly clean it regularly (and the issue was a bad motor... Not lint.). That what you're remembering?

Oh thank you, I misremembered and thought there was some other kind of filter I had to clear out.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

WrenP-Complete posted:

Okay two questions, one hopefully fast?

1. I think I read in this thread someone doing something to service a dryer that wasn't cleaning the lint trap. I can't figure out where I read that and I'm ready to be horrified.

(Longer) 2. Yard/garden has a (meadow) vole problem. Dog has started eating them like chicken nuggets. That's fine as long as she doesn't bring them in the house but it means we can't poison them. I've cleared out some of the brush where they used to hide after she tore up part of a retaining wall to get at them (like maybe 5 stones out of a pretty sturdy wall). How to repair retaining wall, keeping in mind that voles are in it? Does it need like... Grout? More of that black fabric I found other places in the garden from the previous owner? Is that even against voles or do they just use that for bedding? I understand that getting rid of the voles entirely probably won't happen since they are agricultural pests and we can't use rodenticide, but want to repair the retaining wall as best I can. I can provide pics if useful.

Thank you for wise advice, thread.

Phone posting here, but you'd want mortar, not grout. The black fabric is for controlling plants, not animals, and it doesn't always even do a good job of that. You might also try protecting the wall with chicken wire; it might discourage your dog from trying to destroy it.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



I have a chicken coop that we have found a wasp/hornet's nest inside about half the size of a fist. Since I have never been stung before I am somewhat concerned about finding out I'm allergic so I don't really want to use one of the wasp sprays but would rather use a fogger poison.

What fogger would work to kill wasps/hornets?

And a related question, will the fogger (after the appropriate fog time) be safe for the chickens to be let back into the coop after?

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

Requesting video of the dog getting his vole murder boner on.

lifts cats over head
Jan 17, 2003

Antagonist: A bad man who drops things from the windows.
Quick HVAC question: our Central AC unit died and the repair guy won't be able to finish the fix until a new compressor is ordered. He disconnected the AC in the meantime. Due to the wiring in the thermostat the fan still turns on when the AC should kick on. Is there potential damage I could do by allowing the fan to run in lieu of the AC? I don't want to burn anything out or anything. I only ask because it's a hot one and I'm exploring options.

Subjunctive
Sep 12, 2006

✨sparkle and shine✨

MrYenko posted:

Requesting video of the dog getting his vole murder boner on.

She gets very excited.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

lifts cats over head posted:

Quick HVAC question: our Central AC unit died and the repair guy won't be able to finish the fix until a new compressor is ordered. He disconnected the AC in the meantime. Due to the wiring in the thermostat the fan still turns on when the AC should kick on. Is there potential damage I could do by allowing the fan to run in lieu of the AC? I don't want to burn anything out or anything. I only ask because it's a hot one and I'm exploring options.

Your fan is going to run up your electric bill by likely pumping warm house air through your hot-as-gently caress-attic. No danger to the fan itself. You would be better served with fans in rooms.

tangy yet delightful posted:

I have a chicken coop that we have found a wasp/hornet's nest inside about half the size of a fist. Since I have never been stung before I am somewhat concerned about finding out I'm allergic so I don't really want to use one of the wasp sprays but would rather use a fogger poison.

What fogger would work to kill wasps/hornets?

And a related question, will the fogger (after the appropriate fog time) be safe for the chickens to be let back into the coop after?

Do you have a vet you could ask? If chickens are anything like pet birds you're going to want to make very sure you get all of the poison OUT of the coop. Do you eat their eggs or meat? Make sure you know how that will transfer regardless of if it will kill them or not.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



H110Hawk posted:

Your fan is going to run up your electric bill by likely pumping warm house air through your hot-as-gently caress-attic. No danger to the fan itself. You would be better served with fans in rooms.


Do you have a vet you could ask? If chickens are anything like pet birds you're going to want to make very sure you get all of the poison OUT of the coop. Do you eat their eggs or meat? Make sure you know how that will transfer regardless of if it will kill them or not.

We do eat their eggs. Good idea I'll call the vet we use (that deals with farm animals) on Monday.

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


BonoMan posted:

Looking for tree recommends. We just had the tree by our driveway cut down. It was a cedar and it was just a nightmare to deal with. We'd like to replace it as now our driveway and cars just sit there baking all day long in the hot Mississippi sun.

Preferably something kinda fast growing as we'd like to enjoy it sometime in the next 10 years!
Take a look at the Audubon Society's guide to native plants https://www.audubon.org/native-plants
Also MSU's guide to native trees http://www.4county.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/NativeTrees.pdf

I saw a lecture by Doug Tallamy a few months ago and he was super interesting and engaging, and his talk really drove home the importance of having a lot of native plants. He wasn't completely against non-native species, but he suggested thinking of them as ornamental, like statues, and only having a few because they look nice but don't do anything to help the local ecosystem.

Jerk McJerkface posted:

I have a little side stoop with a door. I'd like to get a storm door for it. However, I know it's more convenient to have the hinges on the same side, so it's easier to lock/unlock the main door. Here's my setup:



The issue is that if I open it to the right, it'll block the steps. So I figure I can just pour some new steps on the left side. The right steps are a a little worse for wear anyways.

I'm curious if I can just build and pour the concrete steps right over the asphalt or do I need to get a gas saw and cut it all out? I figured I could even just bet some rebar, and hammer it in to the asphalt and it'd be pretty secure. What do you all think? Or should I just open the door to the left and not worry about it?
Unless you need to have big things delivered through the door, opposite side hinges aren't that big of a deal.

Super 3 posted:

I can rent one from Home Depot for 50 bucks.
Or you buy one for $199 and have a thermal camera.

GWBBQ fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Jul 15, 2018

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

GWBBQ posted:

Take a look at the Audubon Society's guide to native plants https://www.audubon.org/native-plants
Also MSU's guide to native trees http://www.4county.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/NativeTrees.pdf


Ah the extension service! How did I not think of that? (I went to MSU)

I needed to find a sheep for a commercial shoot one day and they got me someone in like 5 minutes. They're awesome.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


BonoMan posted:

Ah the extension service! How did I not think of that? (I went to MSU)

I needed to find a sheep for a commercial shoot one day and they got me someone in like 5 minutes. They're awesome.
If you really have any interest in gardening or plants or just being amused in Mississippi or the rest of the Deep South, Felder Rushing's show on MPB 'The gestalt gardener' which is available as a podcast is incredible. Some of the most lovely and backward Mississippi accents getting good gardening advice and sharing stories.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



tangy yet delightful posted:

I have a chicken coop that we have found a wasp/hornet's nest inside about half the size of a fist. Since I have never been stung before I am somewhat concerned about finding out I'm allergic so I don't really want to use one of the wasp sprays but would rather use a fogger poison.

What fogger would work to kill wasps/hornets?

And a related question, will the fogger (after the appropriate fog time) be safe for the chickens to be let back into the coop after?

Raid Fumigator. Just add water. It creates a smoke, and leaves no residue. Comes in 3-packs of little blue cans.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Raid-Fumigating-Foggers-3-Pack-61528/100034648

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 08:30 on Jul 15, 2018

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

If you really have any interest in gardening or plants or just being amused in Mississippi or the rest of the Deep South, Felder Rushing's show on MPB 'The gestalt gardener' which is available as a podcast is incredible. Some of the most lovely and backward Mississippi accents getting good gardening advice and sharing stories.

I *love* the Gestalt Gardener. Felders positivity is so infectious and just makes you feel good about life. Maybe I'll call in and ask him.

Vargatron
Apr 19, 2008

MRAZZLE DAZZLE


I live in kind of a lovely apartment and there's a lot of hardwater buildup in the bathtub and toilets. It's basically been like that since I've lived here, but I'm trying in earnest to get the bathrooms cleaned up. I've had success in getting the hardwater rings out of the toilet with hydrochloric acid based toilet cleaner, but I'm having a difficult time getting the tub cleaned. I've been told it's not safe to use hydrochloric acid based cleaners for a tub; is there something I could pick up from Lowes instead that might do the trick? I've tried various combinations of Clorox, Scrubbing Bubbles and a Mr. Clean sponge (don't worry I didn't mix these together).

I can provide picture if y'all think that will help, but it's basically hardwater/soap scum from what I can tell.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

There's also CLR, which should be available anywhere.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Vargatron posted:

I live in kind of a lovely apartment and there's a lot of hardwater buildup in the bathtub and toilets. It's basically been like that since I've lived here, but I'm trying in earnest to get the bathrooms cleaned up. I've had success in getting the hardwater rings out of the toilet with hydrochloric acid based toilet cleaner, but I'm having a difficult time getting the tub cleaned. I've been told it's not safe to use hydrochloric acid based cleaners for a tub; is there something I could pick up from Lowes instead that might do the trick? I've tried various combinations of Clorox, Scrubbing Bubbles and a Mr. Clean sponge (don't worry I didn't mix these together).

I can provide picture if y'all think that will help, but it's basically hardwater/soap scum from what I can tell.

I tried cleaning a tub with just bleach. It may have disinfected the poo poo out of it, but it didn't get rid of anything beyond that.
Try Ajax. Or whatever the store brand "cleaning powder" is that your local place sells. I usually dump a bunch in the bottom of my tub, , plug it, run the water for a bit, then scrub scrub scrub.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

angryrobots posted:

There's also CLR, which should be available anywhere.

This is the only answer. If it's calcium you can try vinegar but it would need to soak forever. Dilute it if you are worried about it eating your tub. Proper ventilation is suggested.

Vargatron
Apr 19, 2008

MRAZZLE DAZZLE


CLR appears to have done the trick. Thanks for the suggestion!

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

I'm running 1 1/4 pvc conduit to feed an outdoor extension cord into my shed. I'm using that size so the male/female ends can pass through so there's a lot of room, what can I use to plug the ends so that this also doesn't become a nice little walkway for bugs or critters? At first I was like oh I'll just shove some insulation in there but then I thought ah that might get eaten.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

The Dave posted:

I'm running 1 1/4 pvc conduit to feed an outdoor extension cord into my shed. I'm using that size so the male/female ends can pass through so there's a lot of room, what can I use to plug the ends so that this also doesn't become a nice little walkway for bugs or critters? At first I was like oh I'll just shove some insulation in there but then I thought ah that might get eaten.

Expanding foam or steel wool?

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


The Dave posted:

I'm running 1 1/4 pvc conduit to feed an outdoor extension cord into my shed. I'm using that size so the male/female ends can pass through so there's a lot of room, what can I use to plug the ends so that this also doesn't become a nice little walkway for bugs or critters? At first I was like oh I'll just shove some insulation in there but then I thought ah that might get eaten.

If you mean to put the extension cord through the conduit, you're not allowed to permanently install extension cords like that.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

It's also generally unwise, because the conductor will build up more heat being inside conduit. Extension cords are for open air use. But if you're running conduit, pulling an actual circuit with property sized wire is an easy addition.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003

I was basically looking for a really lazy but clean looking approach for this:

My shed already has power (though the PO did that and it isn't up to code, hardly buried), and I'm stringing up some lights on a tree that is located basically right next to the shed. I wanted to cleanly put the extension cable back into the shed and mostly keep it unplugged, but occasionally will plug it in to turn the lights on.

I was going to just drill a hole in the back of the shed and use the PVC stuff to hide the wire since there's no opening for it. I guess the right approach would be to put a weatherproof outlet on the exterior of the shed.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

The Dave posted:

I was basically looking for a really lazy but clean looking approach for this:

My shed already has power (though the PO did that and it isn't up to code, hardly buried), and I'm stringing up some lights on a tree that is located basically right next to the shed. I wanted to cleanly put the extension cable back into the shed and mostly keep it unplugged, but occasionally will plug it in to turn the lights on.

I was going to just drill a hole in the back of the shed and use the PVC stuff to hide the wire since there's no opening for it. I guess the right approach would be to put a weatherproof outlet on the exterior of the shed.

Running conduit is the hard part here. If you do it once, do it right you can have a nice GFCI protected weatherproof outlet in your shed, plus a lightswitch to turn on your string of lights.

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

The Dave posted:

I was basically looking for a really lazy but clean looking approach for this:

My shed already has power (though the PO did that and it isn't up to code, hardly buried), and I'm stringing up some lights on a tree that is located basically right next to the shed. I wanted to cleanly put the extension cable back into the shed and mostly keep it unplugged, but occasionally will plug it in to turn the lights on.

I was going to just drill a hole in the back of the shed and use the PVC stuff to hide the wire since there's no opening for it. I guess the right approach would be to put a weatherproof outlet on the exterior of the shed.

Do it right. Extension cords aren't allowed for permanent use. Fix what the PO did if it's that bad.

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