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eighty-four merc posted:Air tools are so much better, lighter, cheaper than cordless though that’s crazy to me Maintenance and repair of company owned drilling equipment. Between my Milwaukee nutfucker 5000, 36 inch pipewrenches, and long rear end pipes to go over the ends of the pipe wrenches, we don't have much that can't be undone. Anything that requires more than that gets torched. Everything else pretty much gets done with a regular impact, wrenches and ratchets.
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Jun 1, 2021 02:11
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That makes sense. I imagine a lot of that happens in the field or otherwise physically outside the shop. Or the equipment is so big the hoses would be more hassle than they’re worth I only just started here but the shop I’m in now has a decent sized compressor, but mostly because a lot of the equipment we sell has pneumatic requirements. We don’t have any air tools yet but we’ll likely get some for bench work. It’s field service (air travel) so we mostly use the bare minimum out of a pretty small case
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Jun 1, 2021 11:58
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Is there an economical place to get batteries? Looking to get a 5 Ah Makita. Just need one, willing to get it with a tool if it's something I need/want, but price is most important.
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Jun 2, 2021 15:46
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I had a big fight a while ago with some steering ball joints on my e34 where I was definitely the loser, despite using every combination of separators, hammers, and torches I could manage without just outright destroying poo poo. The other day, however, I picked up this fucker. It's crazy that my $8 Big Lots air hammer and this thing managed to pop these old and probably-too-tight joints that didn't even flinch at a normal pickle fork and BFH. A little wiggling and prying and it popped them right out in maybe a minute each. For sure the most satisfying  I've spent there, and now I don't have a pitman arm joint that pulls in and out of the socket a few mm with your fingers.
Lowclock fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jun 3, 2021 |
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Jun 3, 2021 03:49
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Uthor posted:Is there an economical place to get batteries? Looking to get a 5 Ah Makita. Just need one, willing to get it with a tool if it's something I need/want, but price is most important. Turns out Acme Tools was having a $100 off + two batteries sale, so I got a circular saw and two 5.0 Ah batteries for $30 more than just batteries at Home Depot. I'd be losing money if I didn't go for that! And that's how one goes broke. EDIT: Looking closer, the SKU for the tool is a combo with two batteries, so I may be getting a four pack? I'll know in a week! Uthor fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jun 4, 2021 |
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Jun 4, 2021 20:38
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Uthor posted:Turns out Acme Tools was having a $100 off + two batteries sale, so I got a circular saw and two 5.0 Ah batteries for $30 more than just batteries at Home Depot. I'd be losing money if I didn't go for that! Where's the link to the deal? 
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Jun 4, 2021 22:10
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Where's the link to the deal? Apologies. It's in circ saws only, seems like, but that was the one tool I was looking for. https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/makita-cut-the-cord-promotion
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Jun 4, 2021 22:53
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Uthor posted:Apologies. It's in circ saws only, seems like, but that was the one tool I was looking for. Nice! Looking now, thanks!
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Jun 4, 2021 22:55
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For what its worth that's a Makita promotion not an Acme specific promotion, Homedepot has the same deal and its a duplicate of one last summer where I picked up that combo, not because I necessarily needed another circ saw, but because I definitely needed more batteries and a dual charger. You may be able to just drive down and pick one up.
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Jun 5, 2021 04:28
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Hypothetically if I needed a ball joint press should I get the $90 bullshit from harbor freight or is there something better or cheaper I should be looking at?
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Jun 6, 2021 04:26
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I’d get a rental, but I’m not replacing ball joints too often.
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Jun 6, 2021 04:30
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Lowclock posted:I had a big fight a while ago with some steering ball joints on my e34 where I was definitely the loser, despite using every combination of separators, hammers, and torches I could manage without just outright destroying poo poo. The other day, however, I picked up this fucker. It's crazy that my $8 Big Lots air hammer and this thing managed to pop these old and probably-too-tight joints that didn't even flinch at a normal pickle fork and BFH. A little wiggling and prying and it popped them right out in maybe a minute each. For sure the most satisfying These things are great! Justification all on their own for having an air hammer honestly, without even getting into all the other cool attachments you can get for one.
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Jun 6, 2021 07:49
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slidebite posted:Oh don't get me wrong, I totally get you can get away with it now. It's still just a mindfuck for me. Air was just ubiquitous with any auto/industrial shop it's weird for me to hear when one doesn't. Li-Ion brushless tools are the first true replacements for air tools imo. Prior to those, not having air was a disadvantage, full-stop.
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Jun 6, 2021 11:09
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Seems like the only safe way to lift up my car to get jack stands under the side rails is by the center jacking point in the front, which is too far under my car for my current jack to reach. Can any of the HF jacks reach up to 26"? Bonus points if it can also lift up a Honda CR-V high enough for the wheels to come off the ground (which my jack fails to do). Rhino Ramps would be cheaper, though prevent me from being able to work on anything in the wheel wells.
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Jun 7, 2021 18:24
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I've got a low profile 2.5 ton steel one. I will measure it when I get home if no one replies. I assume you specifically said "safe way" because side jacking presents some sort of danger? I lift my car from the front jacking point on either side, while leaving enough room for the stand, since the weight distribution favors the front, and put the front and rear jackstand on one side simultaneously. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 19:08 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 19:06
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I've used rhino ramps then jacked it up for really low stuff.
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Jun 7, 2021 19:09
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Uthor posted:Seems like the only safe way to lift up my car to get jack stands under the side rails is by the center jacking point in the front, which is too far under my car for my current jack to reach. What year CR-V? The best price/lift capability on the market is the original Daytona yellow jack, I don't think the other/newer Daytona jacks have the same max lift height. But you also shouldn't need anywhere near 26" of lift to get a CR-V off the ground. The yellow Daytona maxes at something like 23" and lifted my '13 CR-V just fine, as did the Arcan 21" max lift jack I had before it.
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Jun 7, 2021 19:12
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The hf balljoint press and adapter set are fine. I've used them. Also I just finally broke my 3/4 hf breaker bar, the 20 dollar one. It took years but it happened. Lugnuts on an Isuzu NPR did it in.
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Jun 7, 2021 19:13
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um excuse me posted:I've got a low profile 2.5 ton steel one. I will measure it when I get home if no one replies. Yes. My old car, I'd lift on the frame rail next to the jacking point (usually with a 2x4 to distribute the pressure) and put a stand under the pinch weld. This car, the entire bottom is clad in plastic with the only the four lifting points being the safe places to jack from the side. When I do, I have nowhere to place the jack stand. I've rotated tires that way by putting a wheel under the car in case it fell and not sticking any part of my body under the car, but I hated it and will not do an oil change in that manner. IOwnCalculus posted:What year CR-V? 2018. I have the 1.5 ton AL racing jack, looks like it has a 14" lift height. I was able to just get the wheel off the ground with a 4x4 spacer, so 18-20" should be sufficient. Otherwise, it unloads the suspension, but the wheels still touch the ground. Uthor fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 19:20
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Ah, one generation newer than mine. Yeah, you'll just need anything with better lift than the little aluminum racing jack, but ramps also work really well whenever you're just doing fluid/filter changes on it.
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Jun 7, 2021 19:25
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No arm dimensions listed but would something like this work? https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-long-reach-low-profile-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-blue-56641.html I have the Canadian Tire version of this one and it can reach the the jacking point under the front subframe on my Fit. There's a coupon for it as well on hfqdb. Edit: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-eliminator-heavy-duty-low-profile-long-reach-garage-jack-3-ton-0090244p.html Seems to be pretty much identical, lifting arm length is 19.5". Bulk Vanderhuge fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Jun 7, 2021 |
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Jun 7, 2021 19:39
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Does HF have a different design for their Daytona jacks? I notice they don't compare them with Snap-On anymore. Or maybe they settled the lawsuit.
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Jun 7, 2021 19:45
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C-Bangin' it 
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Here you go: 6.5 inches tall at the back near the lever.
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Jun 7, 2021 21:34
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Thanks, looks like it will be a tad short and I should get the long lever.
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Jun 7, 2021 21:57
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Uthor posted:Seems like the only safe way to lift up my car to get jack stands under the side rails is by the center jacking point in the front, which is too far under my car for my current jack to reach. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-long-reach-low-profile-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-black-64781.html I have the older 2T version of this and it is 26" to the center of the jack pad from the handle.
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Jun 7, 2021 21:58
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Am I the only one that just shoves the jack under the car with the handle down and then does like 3" pumps until the car starts going up? Also, I'm all about ramps for any job that doesn't involve removing wheels.
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Jun 7, 2021 22:15
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Uthor posted:Seems like the only safe way to lift up my car to get jack stands under the side rails is by the center jacking point in the front, which is too far under my car for my current jack to reach. It only needs to have enough reach that you can get some action on the lever to pump it up, and the higher it gets the more pump you can get. It doesn't matter if your lever pivot point is all the way beneath the car and the handle pokes out perpendicular to the ground.
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Jun 7, 2021 22:21
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:No arm dimensions listed but would something like this work? I've got the HF one in bright fuckoff green. It gets a bit stiff to lift towards the end of its travel, but slides under my lowered car well enough, has plenty of reach and will supposedly lift to 20+". Edit: only real con is its heavy as a mother fucker. They aren't lying about that weight.
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Jun 7, 2021 23:29
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Man, where is the cheap ripoff HF/alibaba alignment setup? I absolutely hate trying to get my car aligned because as soon as I say "BMW" they instantly poo poo their pants and insist they can't handle it, or HAVE to charge $169+ for a PrEmIuM EuRoPeAn alignment. I must be a huge liar when I say I don't have or expect them to install crash bushings, and the only thing adjustable on the entire suspension is the front tie rods. Big shoutout to like 10 feet of fishing line, two jackstands, and two garbage bags sprayed inside with white lithium grease, though. After I completely hosed up the math the first time and dialed in almost 1 degree of total front toe in, I pulled it back to what should be about 0.25 and it feels great. Definitely noticeably better than the 0.5 that every shop slaps on every car.
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Jun 8, 2021 23:37
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Lowclock posted:Man, where is the cheap ripoff HF/alibaba alignment setup? I absolutely hate trying to get my car aligned because as soon as I say "BMW" they instantly poo poo their pants and insist they can't handle it, or HAVE to charge $169+ for a PrEmIuM EuRoPeAn alignment. I must be a huge liar when I say I don't have or expect them to install crash bushings, and the only thing adjustable on the entire suspension is the front tie rods. Ok the stands + fishing line I get but trash bags of lithium grease? Toe plates are cheap and proper sting gauge setups for a medium cost option. Hub stands for a 1k and up but baller option.
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Jun 8, 2021 23:50
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honda whisperer posted:Ok the stands + fishing line I get but trash bags of lithium grease?
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Jun 9, 2021 00:07
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Lowclock posted:I must be a huge liar when I say I don't have or expect them to install crash bushings, and the only thing adjustable on the entire suspension is the front tie rods. What kind of BMW is that? Even on my cheap-rear end '90s Subaru it has adjustable rear toe and adjustable front and rear camber. Has anyone tried the new HF 90 degree air impact? Seems like it could be pretty handy for aforementioned Subaru at about 2/3 the price of one of the Milwaukee cordless ones. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-composite-xtreme-torque-right-angle-air-impact-wrench-57537.html
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Jun 11, 2021 19:29
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22 Eargesplitten posted:What kind of BMW is that? Even on my cheap-rear end '90s Subaru it has adjustable rear toe and adjustable front and rear camber. This got me checking on whether an electric version exists and it looks like Milwaukee has one. A little pricey but that sounds really convenient for brake rotors...
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Jun 11, 2021 21:37
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Yeah, the Milwaukee is what my friend is planning on getting but holy gently caress the price. I think he said it was going to be like $250 with a battery but I forget. All the same, it would probably end up being my most-used tool. I got a compact DeWalt impact with three batteries for $100 from Lowes when they were having their sale and it was a huge help on my front calipers, not sure how it will do on the back but I think it should be small enough. Biggest issue was that the DeWalt didn't have the torque to break some of the old filthy bolts loose so I had to use one of those HF extending ratchets, the Milkwaukees have considerably more torque. I don't mind, though it's small and handy I don't have to worry about massively over-torquing stuff. Lug nuts especially, I just zap it until it starts chugging then stop and apply like half a turn with the torque wrench and it's good at the high end of in-spec. I'm thinking about getting a second and just keeping one in each car to speed up roadside repairs if I need to change a tire in the winter or something, the batteries last quite a while too. I'm really trying to be responsible and make it at least a few years before my tools are worth more than my cars, but using power tools after a decade of nothing but ratchets is just a massive difference. The corded HF impact I have is fantastic too, if bulky. I can wrench hard enough on a breaker bar to snap an impact socket but my shoulders thank me for using an impact the next day.
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Jun 12, 2021 02:43
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I still have my HF corded impact, it was highly recommended in this thread so I bought one and it was life changing. Gave several as gifts over the next couple years. I have my cordless 1/2" now but I'm also avoiding doing any and all work myself these days so it's collecting dust.
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Jun 12, 2021 10:38
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Lowclock posted:Turn plates! I didn't have anything substantial enough to do the old two plates with sand/grease/balls in between, so I just sprayed the inside of them, folded them up, and rolled the front wheels onto them. Haha that's brilliant.
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Jun 12, 2021 13:25
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The best thing I've done for DIY alignment is to pick up two pieces of steel square tube wider than my cars, mark dead center with a scribe mark and then a couple others on each end just a bit wider than the track on my cars. I can put them on jack stands at each end of the car and throw a sandbag over the center to keep them from moving under string tension. Saves a shitload of fiddling around, and then you can put up string that you know is the same width at each end, and then just shift the bars left/right to get the box centered around the car.
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Jun 12, 2021 13:38
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Smart Strings uses something similar that attaches to the car. The instruction manual has a good diagram. I've seen people make much simpler DIY versions. https://www.smartracingproducts.com/smartstrings
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Jun 12, 2021 14:21
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Rhyno posted:I still have my HF corded impact, it was highly recommended in this thread so I bought one and it was life changing. Gave several as gifts over the next couple years. I have my cordless 1/2" now but I'm also avoiding doing any and all work myself these days so it's collecting dust. The HF impact rules, especially for $50. The only thing it hasn't been able to take off for me was a giant idler arm nut that was, like, rust-welded on. I usually spray stuff down ahead of time with a 50:50 mix of acetone and vegetable oil and let it soak in for a little. Most stuff is not a problem after that. I know people use transmission fluid but I switched it for vegetable oil cause atf is super nasty.
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Jun 12, 2021 14:37
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At the time is was half that price after the coupon! I should dig it out and give it to my dad.
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Jun 12, 2021 15:18
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