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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Thanks for all the answers. Maybe I need to get into tabletop gaming first, and then get a printer. The largest user bases for consumer level filament printers today are around the Prusa MK3 / MK3s and the Creality Ender 3 / 3 pro. The Prusa costs 3x as much, maybe a bit more, but prints faster and with greater precision right out of the box, and in general should require basically zero tinkering. That's not to say you'll never have issues, people here have posted issues with their Prusa, but on the whole it's a higher quality machine that is a lot more plug and play. The Ender 3 on the other hand is the budget rival, and it does quite well for the price. Most of the Ender 3 owners here will tell you that they've had no real issues with their printers that weren't their fault. You should expect to spend maybe an extra $50 to $100 in the short term right after you get an Ender for safety and quality of life upgrades, and you should be comfortable doing stuff like checking wiring and flashing a bios. If you're cool with tinkering, or better yet specifically want to tinker, get the Ender 3. If you just want an appliace to print stuff for you with minimal fuss, pony up the extra cash and get the Prusa.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:03
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armorer posted:The largest user bases for consumer level filament printers today are around the Prusa MK3 / MK3s and the Creality Ender 3 / 3 pro. The Prusa costs 3x as much, maybe a bit more, but prints faster and with greater precision right out of the box, and in general should require basically zero tinkering. That's not to say you'll never have issues, people here have posted issues with their Prusa, but on the whole it's a higher quality machine that is a lot more plug and play. The Ender 3 on the other hand is the budget rival, and it does quite well for the price. Most of the Ender 3 owners here will tell you that they've had no real issues with their printers that weren't their fault. You should expect to spend maybe an extra $50 to $100 in the short term right after you get an Ender for safety and quality of life upgrades, and you should be comfortable doing stuff like checking wiring and flashing a bios. Is this the one to get? https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/181-original-prusa-i3-mk3s-3d-printer.html
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Aug 28, 2020 16:08
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Is this the one to get? I'll let one of the Prusa owners here confirm, but yeah as far as I'm aware that's Prusa's best offering at that size. They made a Prusa mini recently with a smaller build platform, but I think it would be too restrictive for most of the use cases people have just described. Also I though that the MK3S was closer to $800 like 6 months ago, but I could be wrong.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:13
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armorer posted:I'll let one of the Prusa owners here confirm, but yeah as far as I'm aware that's Prusa's best offering at that size. They made a Prusa mini recently with a smaller build platform, but I think it would be too restrictive for most of the use cases people have just described. Also I though that the MK3S was closer to $800 like 6 months ago, but I could be wrong. There's one that's $749 that's called a kit. does that just mean I have to assemble it?
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Aug 28, 2020 16:21
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:There's one that's $749 that's called a kit. does that just mean I have to assemble it? Yep, they offer it assembled and unassembled. I don't know how unassembled it comes, but you basically need to be able to make sure things are square as you put it together, and be sane about how much you torque the screws. I believe that all the electronics are already in place, but you'll probably have to plug in various wires. The Ender 3 comes partially disassembled and is easy enough to assemble (but making sure things are properly square is something that people often f-up during assembly. There was a discussion about that exact thing here a few months back.) Edit: I personally think it's worth doing the assembly, so that in the event something does go wrong the machine is a bit less of a black box.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:28
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simmyb posted:I use mine to for molds, parts and jigs to make myself custom fit cycling shoes do you print clips too?
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Aug 28, 2020 16:31
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Ok last question for now, I think. Is there a set of digital calipers that people recommend? I feel like that's something that would be useful when it comes to making replacement parts or whatever, and I've wanted to get some for a while anyway. Is that something you find yourself using and can you recommend a specific make? I really appreciate all the answers. Trying to find a use case for myself so I can convince myself to pull the trigger.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:31
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Ok last question for now, I think. Is there a set of digital calipers that people recommend? I feel like that's something that would be useful when it comes to making replacement parts or whatever, and I've wanted to get some for a while anyway. Is that something you find yourself using and can you recommend a specific make? Mitutoyo comes up a lot as a caliper recommendation. I have some generic ones that were cheaper and don't even have a brand name on them for me to look up. I've had them for years and they've worked fine for my hobby level work.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:36
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Ok last question for now, I think. Is there a set of digital calipers that people recommend? I feel like that's something that would be useful when it comes to making replacement parts or whatever, and I've wanted to get some for a while anyway. Is that something you find yourself using and can you recommend a specific make? Yeah, they're great for modeling replacement parts. I bought these a couple of years ago and they've been really handy: https://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ Mitutoyo is sort of the top of the hobbyist end but costs a bit more: https://smile.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ I believe the iGaging ones are popular for less expensive models as well: https://smile.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/
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Aug 28, 2020 16:38
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I consistently suggest the iGauging digital calipers. I've got several in very regular use and they're great. No battery drain, either. The linked ones up there ^ are great, and this slightly cheaper option is great too. https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/
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Aug 28, 2020 16:41
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I would 100% recommend getting the kit I’ve had to break down chunks of my printer several times to fix things or upgrade them, and knowing how I put it together was a huge help there, also you save $250 in exchange for like 8 hours of your time The mini is a totally very good machine, and goes together in like 20 minutes, and prints great, and I have it running next to my mk3s, although it is slightly limited in bed size and running more exotic materials Prusa just sent out a survey about the mini and one of the questions was about offering a kit version and I would have loved to have built the thing from a box of parts, rather than just bolting the Z axis to the bed and calling it done. If you can’t justify the $750 on the mk3s, and can stand to wait 3 months for shipping, the mini is an absolutely fantastic purchase
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Aug 28, 2020 17:02
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simmyb posted:I use mine to for molds, parts and jigs to make myself custom fit cycling shoes That's loving wild. Nice work!
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Aug 28, 2020 18:03
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Ok last question for now, I think. Is there a set of digital calipers that people recommend? Mitutoyo 500-196-30, one of the best tool buys I've ever made. their quantumike micrometer is rad too, but not really useful for 3D printing (e: unless there are pro level printers with micron accuracy?). I avoid igaging because they're reskins of counterfeit mitutoyos and I'm not down with chinese bootleg stuff (though not gonna knock others for using em, they're cheap and decent compared to harbor freight or whatever). As for your original question, my printer is not here yet but I ordered it to make parts, enclosures etc for my home/hobby electronics work and for rapid prototyping stuff related to my job d0s fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 18:11
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Shooting sports are a nice niche for people discovering 3D printing. Not only is it handy to make doodads to make it better (like in any sport) but target shooting and reloading already have huge cottage industries due to the large number of DIY types. I've made my own cheek rests (saving myself 60+ bucks each for a couple bucks worth of hardware) I'm particularly happy with the knobs and nut traps I designed into them.   I also made some dumb nerd poo poo (because I am a dumb nerd) S.P.E.C.T.R.E. logo and COBRA logos in custom grips for an antique pistol.  
The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 18:12
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Kinda looks like you got yourself a HYDRA logo there my man
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Aug 28, 2020 19:55
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I want to print a bunch of paint swatches. What is the ideal material for this? I want them to last a while so I can justify being comprehensive, but its not like it's going to be an archive I pass on to future generations. This is a long winded way to ask: if I print a bunch of tiny squares in PLA or PETG and store them inside, how long will they last? I doubt they'll be thin enough to store in a binder, but that's the kind of storage I expect.
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Aug 28, 2020 20:00
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Keep em out of UV and I'd say the petg would last probably a day past forever.
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Aug 28, 2020 20:49
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csammis posted:Kinda looks like you got yourself a HYDRA logo there my man Oops that's embarrassing. Yeah, wrong picture. I also did a SPECTRE logo, just didn't use the right picture.
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Aug 28, 2020 20:53
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I want to add a 3D printer to my wedding registry, so it will have to be something I can get on Amazon. Is this the correct/legit Ender 3 Pro that folks in this thread talk about? https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Removable-220x220x250MM/dp/B07K3SZBHJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp
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Aug 28, 2020 20:57
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Lutha Mahtin posted:I want to add a 3D printer to my wedding registry, so it will have to be something I can get on Amazon. Is this the correct/legit Ender 3 Pro that folks in this thread talk about? That's the one I have, although I bought it from AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32918302452.html There also appears to be an Ender 3-V2 now, but I don't know anything about it.
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Aug 28, 2020 21:04
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AWESOME! My 250mm extension kit for my elegoo mars is gonna ship ~hopefully~ tomorrow! Looks to be a simple install, cannot wait to print some big stuff. Little weird to have a saturn coming in that tops out at 200, and my old printer will be topping out at 250. Guy sells em (honestly, a cheap price for an all metal setup) on https://www.jacksonproducts.net . I'll do a trip report once mine gets here and I get my screen replaced too.
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Aug 28, 2020 21:15
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goddamnedtwisto posted:The filament I just bought had a leaflet in it for a custom 3D printer for shoe insoles complete with foot scanner, which seems like an amazing use for the technology but also a bit niche to be just advertising randomly to people buying the second-cheapest filament on Amazon. Did it say what the software was? I'd be interested especially since the way I do it now is a bodge of multiple free softwares... NewFatMike posted:I have been wanting to design and make shoes with CAD and CNC tech for a few years - do you have bandwidth to share a project/workflow either here or by PM?  I'll send you a PM, but might not be for a week or so - power outage and might not be on for a few days still.CommonShore posted:do you print clips too? Nope, no real reason too. Existing ones work well, are cheap and lmao printed ones would probably explode.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:45
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Aurium posted:They're designed to be supported. While the previously linked design shows they don't have to be to have successful prints, people in the comments to talk about how much ghosting the resulting part has. It's an interplay between how much mass the toolhead has, how fast it's accelerating, and how flexible the whole system is. Thanks for the simulation info! When I got my rails in the mail I realized how heavy they are and wanted to cut down on weight. But it seems like this might not be the best idea. Maybe I could get away with having the rails' 12mm side horizontal...
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Aug 29, 2020 03:05
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simmyb posted:I use mine to for molds, parts and jigs to make myself custom fit cycling shoes This is a project I've been wanting to try. Got any advice?
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Aug 29, 2020 06:38
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Help! Ender 3v2 arrived a couple of weeks ago and since then meals, when I remember them, have been cold beans out of a tin. This is quite a fun hobby. Prints have been going very successfully until the last couple of days and now it just will not loving behave. I've shifted to a green PLA because I ran out of the free stuff that came with the printer. Compared with the stock PLA, it seems to leak out of the nozzle a lot more between extrusions and really likes to curl back on itself at the same time, but that hadn't stopped it doing a couple of nice prints. I've got an ambitious print in mind so I thought I'd print a CHEP cube to see that everything's dialled in before I set it going for six hours. The brim goes down fine but as soon as the nozzle tries any fine detail it rips off the bed and snots up horribly. I've tried re-levelling the bed a couple of times using a till receipt for a spacer and winding the temperature down to control the leakiness, but no success. Any hints? 
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Aug 29, 2020 10:06
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Endjinneer posted:Help! What is the green PLA you're using? (And you're sure it's PLA?) What brand and such? The packaging should have recommended temp settings on it. It looks like it's laying down the first layer pretty well in that photo. If you haven't cleaned the build surface recently, you should try wiping it down with 99% iso and a cotton ball or two.
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Aug 29, 2020 11:44
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armorer posted:What is the green PLA you're using? (And you're sure it's PLA?) What brand and such? The packaging should have recommended temp settings on it. It looks like it's laying down the first layer pretty well in that photo. If you haven't cleaned the build surface recently, you should try wiping it down with 99% iso and a cotton ball or two. Thanks. Cleaning the build plate worked. It's cheapie Technology Outlet PLA. Recommended temp settings are 210 and 40-50 degrees. This print is at 205 and 60 because I forgot to override it. 
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Aug 29, 2020 12:19
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armorer posted:The largest user bases for consumer level filament printers today are around the Prusa MK3 / MK3s and the Creality Ender 3 / 3 pro. The Prusa costs 3x as much, maybe a bit more, but prints faster and with greater precision right out of the box, and in general should require basically zero tinkering. That's not to say you'll never have issues, people here have posted issues with their Prusa, but on the whole it's a higher quality machine that is a lot more plug and play. The Ender 3 on the other hand is the budget rival, and it does quite well for the price. Most of the Ender 3 owners here will tell you that they've had no real issues with their printers that weren't their fault. You should expect to spend maybe an extra $50 to $100 in the short term right after you get an Ender for safety and quality of life upgrades, and you should be comfortable doing stuff like checking wiring and flashing a bios. i have owned ender 3 pro for 1 year now and i have had 0 issues with printing at all. It was really easy to assemble as well but i was ultra careful when doing it. the only technical issue so far was a crack on some plastic lever thingy but i printed replacement with pet-g and it has lasted fine. the crack didnt affect the print quality at all either but i replaced the part with printed one the moment i noticed it. for printing speed i have been doing 60mm/s which doesnt seem that slow to me. so far i have not needed to do any upgrades at all, that werent printed with the 3d printer. now for materials. my experience with pla has been bad its not durable at all for mechanical applications. Pet-g however is really good and looks neat as well, and its not that hard to set up either. flexible pla is easy to print, but suffers from similar durability issues that plague pla as well.
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Aug 29, 2020 12:49
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Yeah I mean I have an Ender 3 pro as well, and haven't had any issues. I hope my post didn't suggest otherwise. I was just trying to cover the basic tradeoffs, since they're both popular but have very different price points.
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Aug 29, 2020 13:03
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simmyb posted:Did it say what the software was? I'd be interested especially since the way I do it now is a bodge of multiple free softwares...  stay safe friendo!
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Aug 29, 2020 15:17
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Why does everybody in this thread always suggest the Ender3 but never mention the AnyCubic i3? Like the discussion of the Ender3 always comes with the caveat that "you're going to do work for QoL", when you could easily mention the AnyCubic which even the kit is ~setup and go~. Is there something about the AnyCubic that I don't know about and just haven't seen in mine? I run the poo poo out of mine, have had numerous of friends go the Creately route, I would never even suggest them over the AnyCubics after what I've seen. So I'm really wondering if I've just experienced a one off?
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Aug 30, 2020 01:34
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Dunno my dude. I have a chiron and have mentioned it multiple times. It's an amazing printer that prints big poo poo. Worth every penny I have dropped on it, and it's still going stock.
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Aug 30, 2020 01:56
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Dunno my dude. I have a chiron and have mentioned it multiple times. It's an amazing printer that prints big poo poo. Worth every penny I have dropped on it, and it's still going stock. I can honestly say out of 15 people that I've heard get an AnyCubic, it was just the one person in this thread that had a bad UV setup and experienced negative from their support. I'm not trying to discredit their experience. I can just honestly say that I've heard of use of a wide range of their products and they're pretty drat good right out of the box. It would seem if the thread hates on Creately so much, they'd jump on AnyCubic instead...
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Aug 30, 2020 02:32
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Their support is pretty awesome. They sent me a new hot end (I paid DHL shipping though, cause I'm impatient) when mine was giving me trouble and I had to replace it, as it was the replacement hot end (spoiler alert, I'm a dumbass and it turned out to be a plug that came undone). They also sent the piece to repair the original hot end, and a section of cable chain cause I mentioned mine broke way back when I first got it. Quick with emails, hasn't burned down my house, prints big poo poo. Can't say I have any complaints about em. Only reason I don't have one of their resin printers is cause I got the elegoo instead.
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Aug 30, 2020 03:01
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I have only had the E3 so I can't comment on the others. 
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Aug 30, 2020 03:05
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Their support is pretty awesome. They sent me a new hot end (I paid DHL shipping though, cause I'm impatient) when mine was giving me trouble and I had to replace it, as it was the replacement hot end (spoiler alert, I'm a dumbass and it turned out to be a plug that came undone). They also sent the piece to repair the original hot end, and a section of cable chain cause I mentioned mine broke way back when I first got it. Nice, just another success story! I have tons of hours on my (and my friends have many hours on their) i3 mega-s, my buddy has tons of hours on his predator, and I think there are a few in this thread that use their resin printer; however, I think their resin printer is the one that catches the most grief. Edit: The AnyCubics are going for $239 right now https://www.anycubic.com/products/anycubic-i3-mega-s drunk mutt fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 03:06
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jubjub64 posted:Thanks for the simulation info! When I got my rails in the mail I realized how heavy they are and wanted to cut down on weight. But it seems like this might not be the best idea. Maybe I could get away with having the rails' 12mm side horizontal... After running the sim, I think it'd be fine in a typical printer. Prior to running it, I figured the mounting holes would compromise it much more than they did and bring it below what a 8mm rod would do.
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Aug 30, 2020 03:26
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I've gotten my frequently frustrating monoprice Maker Select v2 well tuned to making nice PETG prints. But, it's still on the original Melzi board, so I bought a bigtreetech SKR 1.4 turbo with 5x TMC 2209 stepper drivers. It feels a little wasteful but the thing is turning out pretty good prints so as long as I can get it fine tuned after the new board is installed again I think it'll be a nice sanity saving upgrade. It's hard to want to mess with a printer that's working okay as-is, though.
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Aug 30, 2020 15:58
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drunk mutt posted:Why does everybody in this thread always suggest the Ender3 but never mention the AnyCubic i3? There's just a much bigger community around the ender, which means lots of easily printable and useful mods and aftermarket parts are super easy to find. Hardware wise, they're probably equivalent.
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Aug 30, 2020 16:22
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Hot tip: if you’re printing two bodies at the same time, make sure you didn’t misalign them so that one starts about 2mm above the print bed. Sproioioioing.
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Aug 30, 2020 18:23
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