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actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

just put the TV on an easel in front of the fireplace

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Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Anyone installed prefinished solid hardwood flooring? This would be Bruce 2 1/4" solid hardwood stapled/nailed down. It would be my whole 1400 sq foot house basically. Is this one of those things that isn't really that hard but unless you do it every day you're gonna be slow (and sore) af or is it relatively DIY-able.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I did about 200sqft of prefinished engineered hardwood floor in my house before hiring someone to do it. However, this was a floating floor, resting on a vapor barrier underlayment, and all of the boards had to be glued together, which was far more of a pain in the rear end than I anticipated it would be. I expect that stapled/nailed boards would go together faster, but absolutely look up how the pros do it. There's probably some specialized tools and techniques that will make your life a ton easier. You don't want to spend all day crawling around on your hands and knees, nor hunched over and ruining your back.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

Ultra Carp

:vince:

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

illcendiary posted:

If your partner wants to paint brick, sever

Tell'em to hit the bricks!

Dead Pressed
Nov 11, 2009

EPICAC posted:

I’m trying to mount some shelving in the basement, and am finally fed up with stripping Phillips head screws with my drill. I want to get an impact driver + some torx screws and bits.

Does anyone have any recommendations for an impact driver? I don’t have any battery operated tools, so am not locked into any particular brand.

Is this a reasonable option?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...ID01K/313438683

I like ryobi and have a huge stash myself for all the previous reasons mentioned:
Accessible, good enough for infrequent use, multitude of tools, inexpensive.

Look at "direct tools outlet". It's run by the owner of Ryobi, Rigid, and Milwaukee (TTI) though they don't sell Milwaukee through this avenue. Their "factory blemish" stuff is usually in perfect condition and the sales can be extreme and change on a near weekly basis.

If you're looking for something super nice and light, as I have started to consider, maybe check out the Milwaulkee m12 options. You'll pay for them, but they should be super nice.

dyne
May 9, 2003
[blank]

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Anyone installed prefinished solid hardwood flooring? This would be Bruce 2 1/4" solid hardwood stapled/nailed down. It would be my whole 1400 sq foot house basically. Is this one of those things that isn't really that hard but unless you do it every day you're gonna be slow (and sore) af or is it relatively DIY-able.

I've done a 300 sq ft room with prefinished hardwood. It was pretty easy and not very physically demanding.

blindjoe
Jan 10, 2001

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Anyone installed prefinished solid hardwood flooring? This would be Bruce 2 1/4" solid hardwood stapled/nailed down. It would be my whole 1400 sq foot house basically. Is this one of those things that isn't really that hard but unless you do it every day you're gonna be slow (and sore) af or is it relatively DIY-able.

Ive done a bunch of houses. We started with Bamboo and had to use special t cleats, so i have a special nailgun for it.
https://www.nailgundepot.com/portanails-418a-portamatic-evolution-flooring-nailer-1-to-134

I don't know if this is able to bought anymore, it seems its out of stock everywhere.

I really like the smaller size than the staple nailer, it means you get 1 or two more rows at the end.

The hard part is getting the first row down. It needs to be square, and it needs to be hand nailed.
You need spacers from the wall - I have an ikea kit from back when ikea sold floors
these ones are fine (i bought the amazon equivalent as i lost all the plastic spacers) but the metal thing is not as thick and gets bent as you use it. its less important for tongue and groove flooring than click flooring, but still needed at the edges.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/roberts-flooring-installation-kit/1000495184

I put down a craft paper under the floor, to help it slide in.
I also put down 1000 screws through the subfloor so that it wouldn't squeek.
I am old now, so i need knee pads because crawling around on my knees is too hard.

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





Speaking of hardwood floors. Our house has half the floors done and we'd like to finish out the rest of the place. We like the current style\color but since they were done in 2013 that "model" of flooring doesn't exist anymore. They have whatever the new model name is for this year in the same species and color but how wise is it to mix and match 10 year old floors with new?

I imagine it's not worth the mental anguish knowing that the flooring is split in age and not from the same stock and might as well embrace redoing the house in full vs just extending the half.

Old: http://www.directwoodflooring.com/hardwood_flooring/hardwood.asp?pID=2454
Current: https://www.mullicanflooring.com/product/newtown-plank-saddle-19964/

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


George H.W. oval office posted:

Speaking of hardwood floors. Our house has half the floors done and we'd like to finish out the rest of the place. We like the current style\color but since they were done in 2013 that "model" of flooring doesn't exist anymore. They have whatever the new model name is for this year in the same species and color but how wise is it to mix and match 10 year old floors with new?

I imagine it's not worth the mental anguish knowing that the flooring is split in age and not from the same stock and might as well embrace redoing the house in full vs just extending the half.

Old: http://www.directwoodflooring.com/hardwood_flooring/hardwood.asp?pID=2454
Current: https://www.mullicanflooring.com/product/newtown-plank-saddle-19964/

I mean, where do the current wood floors end? In the middle of a room or somewhere that a transition strip could somewhat hide the differences? I'd probably just try and get whatever you can match that is close enough, tearing up perfectly good floors just for a perfect match seems silly to me. The samples in the two links look identical to me.

I just had new hardwood installed in my kitchen to try and match he 83yo flooring that exists in the rest of the house, and the dividing line is right down the middle of the room. You can tell the floors are different but it is close enough and nobody but me notices unless I point it out to them. I was not going to tear up 800sqft of flooring just to make the extra 100sqft perfectly match.

George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





3 bedrooms have carpet currently which would transition easy enough. The master bedroom has half carpet which wouldn't be ideal. I suppose you could pull back some of the current planks and mix them in with new to sort of transition it better. I got a couple of samples and it does seem pretty similar but the main concern is how jarring is it really going to be once we get a proper install.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Dumb rear end problem I'm trying to fix.

I have a ceiling fan light in my bedroom that won't start on. I click it on with a remote, the light flash, then turns off pretty much immediately. Fan part works fine.

From my troubleshooting:
-not an issue with the bulbs. Initially swapped in a new set to see if that's what it is
-when I turn on the light, i get a single click noise after it flashes off. Then when I press the remote to "turn off" the lready off light, I get another click.
-this click went away for a hot minute with 1 of the 3 bulbs in there, which makes me wonder if it's a relay or something like that acting up. Haven't been able to replicate the issue

Wondering if it's a grounding issue, some dead board etc. hit the point where I figured I should retreat to the home zone before I burn my house down like an idiot

FizFashizzle
Mar 30, 2005








Yeah I looked at those because zuck heard me talking about them and they’re just too expensive for the space I want. Also I’ll need to cut it to be around a thermostat. Plus I’m thinking of installing it around a door and incorporating that into the door but that’s just a float around idea.

Sorry they shipped literally nothing right. If they don’t make you return it all….shoot me a DM.

skylined!
Apr 6, 2012

THE DEM DEFENDER HAS LOGGED ON
I have a raised deck on the back of my house. I want to cover it with a simple lean-to with 6mil greenhouse plastic as the roof, and wood frame of 2x4, 2x6, 4x4 treated lumber. Is it OK to strap the roof ledger for the house-side of the lean-to to the rafter tails of my roof? There's no good way to attach the ledger to the house siding. Other side of the roof frame will be in-ground 4x4s holding most of the weight. How bad of an idea is this?

skylined! fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Jan 30, 2024

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
Been in this house for four years and I’ve just now noticed this in the basement, probably because it was covered by a kid play kitchen until recently.



loving cable installers, man. It’s been disconnected for a long time now, time to pull it and patch it.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

:effort:
lol

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

FizFashizzle posted:

Yeah I looked at those because zuck heard me talking about them and they’re just too expensive for the space I want. Also I’ll need to cut it to be around a thermostat. Plus I’m thinking of installing it around a door and incorporating that into the door but that’s just a float around idea.

Sorry they shipped literally nothing right. If they don’t make you return it all….shoot me a DM.

They finally made it right. They delivered the correct boxes yesterday, and gave me return labels which the UPS driver also hauled away.

One box has fallen open and the ends of one panel are chipped. I guess I had incorrectly thought that the slats were solid wood, but in fact they are veneered MDF strips. I need to inspect the remaining boxes but this is the only damage I've found. I'm going to send them an email and hope for at least a slight refund, but I think I will be able to trim this bit off for the panels I have to cut around the TV wall mount bracket.




I put up as many pieces as I could last night before I reached outlet boxes that I have to make cuts for. I think it's gonna look great.

(Pardon the clutter.... One day my house will look organized or neat.)

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Opened my back door this afternoon and then it wouldn't close. The bottom of it is now sticking out just enough to catch on the doorframe, just a couple millimeters it seems. Do I sand it down? Drive a screw into it? Some other fix?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Muir posted:

Opened my back door this afternoon and then it wouldn't close. The bottom of it is now sticking out just enough to catch on the doorframe, just a couple millimeters it seems. Do I sand it down? Drive a screw into it? Some other fix?



Sorry it was fine yesterday and today it won't close? That's concerning for a larger problem causing it to go out of square. Generally you want to correct the issue instead of removing door material. Looks like it was rubbing for awhile? Is it normally like torn up like that?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Muir posted:

Opened my back door this afternoon and then it wouldn't close. The bottom of it is now sticking out just enough to catch on the doorframe, just a couple millimeters it seems. Do I sand it down? Drive a screw into it? Some other fix?



Has it been wet there lately? Looks like the bottom took on some moisture and swelled up. Drive a screw in it.

skylined!
Apr 6, 2012

THE DEM DEFENDER HAS LOGGED ON

skylined! posted:

I have a raised deck on the back of my house. I want to cover it with a simple lean-to with 6mil greenhouse plastic as the roof, and wood frame of 2x4, 2x6, 4x4 treated lumber. Is it OK to strap the roof ledger for the house-side of the lean-to to the rafter tails of my roof? There's no good way to attach the ledger to the house siding. Other side of the roof frame will be in-ground 4x4s holding most of the weight. How bad of an idea is this?

I have researched and learned this is probably a bad idea. lol

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
It has been wet here, so that's probably the most proximate cause. But the rubbing is interesting, I hadn't really looked at that until I had a reason to. I suppose the door could be a bit off square -- seems to be some more room at the top of the frame (though not enough for a gap).

Edit: actually the door looks to be quite square still, just this bottom piece that's sprung out. I'll try a screw.

Muir fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jan 31, 2024

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


MetaJew posted:

(Pardon the clutter.... One day my house will look organized or neat.)

same haha ha

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

So recently learned about inline filters for under the sink. Is this a reasonable option? I have a condo so I can't put an inline water filter to the whole home but would like to be able to use the tap water for some things I'm currently using a brita for - stuff like water for espresso/coffee. Anyone familiar with this? How often are you changing the filters since they're being used for literally everything?

This isn't a necessity - I live somewhere with great water and don't even need it softened.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Muir posted:

It has been wet here, so that's probably the most proximate cause. But the rubbing is interesting, I hadn't really looked at that until I had a reason to. I suppose the door could be a bit off square -- seems to be some more room at the top of the frame (though not enough for a gap).

Edit: actually the door looks to be quite square still, just this bottom piece that's sprung out. I'll try a screw.

So, uh, it fixed itself. I think it is a swelling issue, but what triggered it today is my wife left the door open for a while, when we normally never leave that door open. So I think normally it swells and shrinks within the confines of the door frame (likely causing the occasional scraping that's visible), whereas today it swelled outside the door frame and so wasn't confined. I went back to look at it again, and it closed just fine.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Muir posted:

So, uh, it fixed itself. I think it is a swelling issue, but what triggered it today is my wife left the door open for a while, when we normally never leave that door open. So I think normally it swells and shrinks within the confines of the door frame (likely causing the occasional scraping that's visible), whereas today it swelled outside the door frame and so wasn't confined. I went back to look at it again, and it closed just fine.

I don't know your situation but that doorframe needs probably some work regardless. If your door doesn't look like that doorframe don't do anything to the door (like sanding it etc).

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



VelociBacon posted:

So recently learned about inline filters for under the sink. Is this a reasonable option? I have a condo so I can't put an inline water filter to the whole home but would like to be able to use the tap water for some things I'm currently using a brita for - stuff like water for espresso/coffee. Anyone familiar with this? How often are you changing the filters since they're being used for literally everything?

This isn't a necessity - I live somewhere with great water and don't even need it softened.

My new(old) house came with a water filter under the sink that feeds it's own faucet that is perfect for filling up my kettle, a glass of water, etc.

It takes the Selecto QC350-2 filter, which is currently out of stock at that link but that's where I bought it from. I plan to replace it maybe yearly but could end up being every 2 years since it's a commercial grade filter rated for thousands of gallons and I don't use it THAT much. I can find you more details/pics of my setup if you are interested.

But it seems like a good alternative to an inline filter so you're not filtering water that you are using to wash dishes.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

tangy yet delightful posted:

My new(old) house came with a water filter under the sink that feeds it's own faucet that is perfect for filling up my kettle, a glass of water, etc.

It takes the Selecto QC350-2 filter, which is currently out of stock at that link but that's where I bought it from. I plan to replace it maybe yearly but could end up being every 2 years since it's a commercial grade filter rated for thousands of gallons and I don't use it THAT much. I can find you more details/pics of my setup if you are interested.

But it seems like a good alternative to an inline filter so you're not filtering water that you are using to wash dishes.

Thank you for the reply. I don't know that I have such a use case for this that I would be wanting to integrate my own faucet for it - it was more of a thought that I could put it on the main cold line to the tap and then when I pull cold water for the cat's water, the kettle, etc it's no different from pouring it from the Brita in the fridge (our tap water gets pretty cold).

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

VelociBacon posted:

I don't know your situation but that doorframe needs probably some work regardless. If your door doesn't look like that doorframe don't do anything to the door (like sanding it etc).

Here's the whole door frame -- it looks even all around to me?


The bottom of the door has some damage (thanks, kids) so that piece that's separating is probably why there's so much play there.


The inside of the door frame doesn't seem to have any damage from that, though.


And the rest of the door itself is in good shape.


The door and frame were done about 6 years ago when we redid the back of the house.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Likely moisture intrusion caused it to swell and you closed the door and caught it. Was there a recent volume of precipitation or a big temperature/humidity swing?

The bottom of my door did this. My guess is the sill plate got some water under it and pushed the metal plate up which caused friction with my door. If it's a tight fit, it doesn't need to swell much.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


VelociBacon posted:

So recently learned about inline filters for under the sink. Is this a reasonable option? I have a condo so I can't put an inline water filter to the whole home but would like to be able to use the tap water for some things I'm currently using a brita for - stuff like water for espresso/coffee. Anyone familiar with this? How often are you changing the filters since they're being used for literally everything?

This isn't a necessity - I live somewhere with great water and don't even need it softened.

What are you trying to filter out? This will help you determine what type of filter is appropriate and effective and what options there are.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Verman posted:

Likely moisture intrusion caused it to swell and you closed the door and caught it. Was there a recent volume of precipitation or a big temperature/humidity swing?

The bottom of my door did this. My guess is the sill plate got some water under it and pushed the metal plate up which caused friction with my door. If it's a tight fit, it doesn't need to swell much.

Yeah, I’m in the Bay Area. We had some big rain a week ago and some more coming tomorrow, but nothing in the past few days.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

MetaJew posted:

They finally made it right. They delivered the correct boxes yesterday, and gave me return labels which the UPS driver also hauled away.

One box has fallen open and the ends of one panel are chipped. I guess I had incorrectly thought that the slats were solid wood, but in fact they are veneered MDF strips. I need to inspect the remaining boxes but this is the only damage I've found. I'm going to send them an email and hope for at least a slight refund, but I think I will be able to trim this bit off for the panels I have to cut around the TV wall mount bracket.




I put up as many pieces as I could last night before I reached outlet boxes that I have to make cuts for. I think it's gonna look great.

(Pardon the clutter.... One day my house will look organized or neat.)


I really really hope you measured, and you dont end up with a tiny sliver piece in the exact middle. Usually you'd start from the middle to avoid that.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

brugroffil posted:

What are you trying to filter out? This will help you determine what type of filter is appropriate and effective and what options there are.

I just want great tasting water and while I know that 99% of the stuff that causes scaling doesn't get filtered out by brita filters, anything that helps with that would be good for the sake of my coffee machines and kettles. The water here is so soft it doesn't really matter that much but still. If water via my kitchen sink could taste like the water that comes from my brita I'd be very pleased.

Invalid Validation
Jan 13, 2008




You’ll waste a lot of filtered water if you just do it in line on the cold side. That’s why a lot of sinks have an extra tap for the filtered water so you only use it when you need it.

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
So something I didnt realize for my sink replacement project was that the pipes for the faucet hookup arent standard. The old faucet hookups had 2mm attachments and the new ones have 1.5mm attachments. (Or kaybe its 3/4in to half inch, who knows which part im supposed to be measuring or how that maps on to what they sell them as size wise, could be either!)

This is my first plumbing project and I assume there is some sort of bit I can use to connect them together across the two sizes? Hopefully? I dont know what it would be called to find it though.

GlyphGryph fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 31, 2024

Invalid Validation
Jan 13, 2008




Usually they’re 1/2 inch but they can come in 3/4 too. There should be an adapter you can buy.

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
Oh, the new supply lines actually have a very tiny qr code that turned out to be a link for requesting adapters, hah. That works.

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Muir posted:

So, uh, it fixed itself. I think it is a swelling issue, but what triggered it today is my wife left the door open for a while, when we normally never leave that door open. So I think normally it swells and shrinks within the confines of the door frame (likely causing the occasional scraping that's visible), whereas today it swelled outside the door frame and so wasn't confined. I went back to look at it again, and it closed just fine.

Yep. I have the same thing happen to one of my exterior doors. It's metal clad MDF so when it gets wet, it swells up. I had it off the hinges to put new weatherstrip on the bottom and I ran a couple finish screws in the bases to keep them tight. Someday I'll get a new door with a real wood core, which I really should do because it's hung about a half inch too low. The new sweep I put on the bottom rubs my floor and I can't put a rug under it.

The thing that really annoys me though is a couple years ago I tuned it up and didn't notice how low it was. I had the trim off and rehung the strike side as they had seperated. Which was ultimately due to some shifting of my foundation (fixed now).

Fortunately I doubt you have any of that. Just a door that wasn't sealed up enough with paint and swole up.

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