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ronya
Nov 8, 2010

I'm the normal one.

You hate ridden fucks will regret your words when you eventually grow up.

Peace.

joedevola posted:

I want to get a pre-built PC so I can spread the cost over time.

quite aside from the hardware, this is an awfully expensive way to get a PC, even with the upfront deposit cranked up to as high as it will go to make the loan as cheap as possible



you're paying a hefty penalty with prebuilt, and then another penalty for financing

it might help if you described what PC you currently have, if any

e: beaten by this

Khablam posted:

Up to 50% better CPU performance, 60-70% better GPU performance, better RAM, larger SSD.
You can get a grey market Windows license for <£10

It's still probably better to buy and build though - paying off the same amount on a credit card will cost you less than financing though any of these places. The cost savings vs a pre-built will let you get much better QOL improvements, such as a workable SSD size and come under budget.

yep

ronya fucked around with this message at 16:14 on Oct 28, 2018

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Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

Khablam posted:

It's still probably better to buy and build though - paying off the same amount on a credit card will cost you less than financing though any of these places. The cost savings vs a pre-built will let you get much better QOL improvements, such as a workable SSD size and come under budget.

For real. If you qualify for financing through any of these places, you probably also qualify for a credit card that will give you cash back rewards and a better APR. Hell, see if you can get one of those "0% interest for 6 months" deals and just pay it off in that timeframe. That also means you can buy whatever you want from wherever you want, without being limited to new parts and the builder's markup.

There are plenty of good reasons to go with a system builder instead of DIYing it, but financing isn't one of them.

ronya
Nov 8, 2010

I'm the normal one.

You hate ridden fucks will regret your words when you eventually grow up.

Peace.
why doesn't anybody sell these PWM-controlled-to-DC-voltage hubs independently? NZXT put one in several revisions of their H440s before they switched to the GRID+ smart hub, Fractal has one in the R6, but nobody seems to sell just it alone

NZXT's:



and Fractal's, from a few pages back:



(they're similar enough that I want to suggest the supplier is probably the same Shenzhen outfit somewhere)

instead Aliexpress is positively littered with clones of PWM-to-PWM hubs

ronya fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Oct 28, 2018

Khablam
Mar 29, 2012

The reliability on those is awful, is probably why.
I've had two cases with them built in since 2012 and they've both failed within a year.

I just re-routed and went off motherboard headers, which was honestly the same result.

joedevola
Sep 11, 2004

worst song, played on ugliest guitar

Dr. Fishopolis posted:

For real. If you qualify for financing through any of these places, you probably also qualify for a credit card that will give you cash back rewards and a better APR. Hell, see if you can get one of those "0% interest for 6 months" deals and just pay it off in that timeframe. That also means you can buy whatever you want from wherever you want, without being limited to new parts and the builder's markup.

There are plenty of good reasons to go with a system builder instead of DIYing it, but financing isn't one of them.

OK, that's probably what I'll do then.

What sort of performance would I be likely to get out of the build I listed or the slightly better one Khablam posted in, say, Fortnite?

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT

joedevola posted:

OK, that's probably what I'll do then.

What sort of performance would I be likely to get out of the build I listed or the slightly better one Khablam posted in, say, Fortnite?

Don't go with the build you posted. There's no reason to get an APU if you're not using the graphics portion. Either one will give you an easy 60fps at 1080p on high in fortnite, the RX570 will give you a lot more breathing room. If you want the build to last a little longer, see if you can find an 8gb RX480 or 580, or a 6gb 1060 for a good price.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

ronya posted:

why doesn't anybody sell these PWM-controlled-to-DC-voltage hubs independently? NZXT put one in several revisions of their H440s before they switched to the GRID+ smart hub, Fractal has one in the R6, but nobody seems to sell just it alone

You mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

Or this? https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Commander-Powered-4-Pin-AC-023-AN1NAN-A1/dp/B01G9BEC5W

On the higher end, you've got this as well: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811978004

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Oct 28, 2018

ronya
Nov 8, 2010

I'm the normal one.

You hate ridden fucks will regret your words when you eventually grow up.

Peace.

the Silverstone and the Thermaltake both don't do the critical bit of transforming a PWM signal to an appropriate DC voltage for 3 pin fans - it's PWM to PWM, or 3 pin to 3 pin

the Corsair Commander is able to control DC fans, but it doesn't take a PWM signal either - it uses USB and software, which is why it costs a fair bit more

I can definitely believe that they're super flaky, though

Khablam
Mar 29, 2012

joedevola posted:

OK, that's probably what I'll do then.

What sort of performance would I be likely to get out of the build I listed or the slightly better one Khablam posted in, say, Fortnite?
Put together something in pcpartpicker and see where you get, as you might be able to bump up the GPU a little.
The 570 will do 1080p/~80fps or so in Fortnight.

If you can stretch to a 1060 6Gb you can play almost anything in 1080p/60fps

anothergod
Apr 11, 2016

Is there a way to retrieve a key for Windows from one computer and apply it to another computer? I have a broken laptop somewhere, and I'd really love to take that Win10 license and apply it to a computer I just bought that doesn't have an activation key...

edit: I am sure there are better places to ask, but... if an eBay listing for a computer says "Windows 7" is the operating system, and the Win7 operating system isn't activated... is it actually a Win 7 operating system? Am I getting ripped off?

anothergod fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Oct 28, 2018

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

anothergod posted:

Is there a way to retrieve a key for Windows from one computer and apply it to another computer? I have a broken laptop somewhere, and I'd really love to take that Win10 license and apply it to a computer I just bought that doesn't have an activation key...

edit: I am sure there are better places to ask, but... if an eBay listing for a computer says "Windows 7" is the operating system, and the Win7 operating system isn't activated... is it actually a Win 7 operating system? Am I getting ripped off?

Windows 10 typically registers itself online with some kind of hash of the hardware from the PC it was activated on, so your physical key won't do anything unless it was a retail key that can be re-used (vs. an oem key or upgrade which are just registered online).

I'd consider just getting a $12 home or $14 key from scdkey or buying a windows 7 key from SA-Mart because they'll all work.

If an ebay listing says it's windows 7 but not activated that means they installed it without a key and it will complain that it's pirated. Just consider buying a cheap key.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Related to the whole fan thing, turns out the motherboard on my wife’s computer only has one case fan header. Which kind of puts the kibosh on my plan of having two separately controlled fans, and also ruins my plan of even having more than one fan since I have no splitter. So two questions, one of which might have been answered above but I want to make sure.

Would this be a good option if I need to put three fans into one header? Also, two of the fans are 3-pin. Would those still be full-blast constantly?

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

Can I use an old 212 Evo’s fan as a case fan? Seems like if I were to put two 120mm fans up front and the evo pulling out the top that would make for positive case pressure along with some good cooling.

Actually, a third question. The fans that come with NZXT cases, do they push towards the bright purple sticker or the black stamped part? I’m betting on the purple because that’s flashier when pointed out, but I want to make sure.

Dingwick
May 3, 2007

This is always the highlight of my day.
Time for a :

- Got everything assembled yesterday into a H500 and it was the easiest build I'd ever done. 10/10 good case

- The UEFI BIOS on the Maximus XI is pretty much the same as other Asus boards, just some reorganized menus.

- Enabled XMP I for the RAM and it's running at 3200 MHz flawlessly.

- gently caress me, NVMe. Windows installed in about 15 seconds.

- Haven't nutted up and OC'd yet but temps at stock on an H115i Pro hover around 25 °C and 40 °C under load so thermals shouldn't be a problem.

- Cinebench score at stock: 1119

And some footage:



Dingwick fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Oct 28, 2018

Dingwick
May 3, 2007

This is always the highlight of my day.

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Actually, a third question. The fans that come with NZXT cases, do they push towards the bright purple sticker or the black stamped part? I’m betting on the purple because that’s flashier when pointed out, but I want to make sure.

Case fans usually have a little arrow on the side that points in the direction of the air flow. If you can't find that, then the side of the fan that has the big bold NZXT on it is the exhaust.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Thanks, didn't think to check for an arrow. I think it's doing fine as-is but I'll check on it. Especially when I get a splitter/controller/whatever and wire up a couple more fans.

CronoGamer
May 15, 2004

why did this happen
I posted a few weeks ago about this build for a friend, just had one follow-up question:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor ($220.98 @ Newegg Business)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($106.78 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($86.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($384.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($97.59 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus - VG245H 24.0" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor ($181.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Redragon - S101 Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1375.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-28 19:26 EDT-0400

The follow-up question is: I haven't told him to buy a cooler for this CPU-- he will not be overclocking. If he's not overclocking, will this build be fine with the stock CPU cooler, or should I tell him to order a cooler as well?

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

CronoGamer posted:

I posted a few weeks ago about this build for a friend, just had one follow-up question:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor ($220.98 @ Newegg Business)
Motherboard: ASRock - Z370 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($106.78 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($86.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($45.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card ($384.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Pro ATX Full Tower Case ($97.59 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: Asus - VG245H 24.0" 1920x1080 75Hz Monitor ($181.99 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Redragon - S101 Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1375.17
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-28 19:26 EDT-0400

The follow-up question is: I haven't told him to buy a cooler for this CPU-- he will not be overclocking. If he's not overclocking, will this build be fine with the stock CPU cooler, or should I tell him to order a cooler as well?

The stock cooler will work for keeping the CPU cool enough, but will be a little noisier than a third party one.

CronoGamer
May 15, 2004

why did this happen

Rexxed posted:

The stock cooler will work for keeping the CPU cool enough, but will be a little noisier than a third party one.

Great. Thank you!

Koramei
Nov 11, 2011

I have three regrets
The first is to be born in Joseon.

just so you know, there's a ti 1070 for the same price (after rebate) as this right now: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076Q6HT34/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

or if you keep your eyes open you can find new 1070s for like $300 fairly regularly

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"
If I didn't know any better, I'd swear the AIO makers are all colluding with each other to get people to keep buying new ones. Every single one of them seems to have a loving caveat.

Corsair's new "PRO" units should've been called "Silent" since the "PRO" seems to just mean they come with non-poo poo non-Pro ML fans. NZXT's Kraken X72 is 360mm and comes with a six year warranty, but I don't feel like paying $200 to have to replace supposedly anemic fans. The Eisbaer 420mm AIO will somewhat easily fit in my case, and I've already two out of three ML140 Pros to replace the evidently rear end-quality "Eiswulf" fans it comes with, but it only has a three year warranty and I'd imagine if anything ever goes wrong I'll have to ship it back to *Germany*. And lastly, EVGA's 280mm is comparatively cheap and comes with a five year warranty, but evidently you have to pack it like nitroglycerin, because if there's any apparent damage whatsoever to any of the radiator fins, that five year warranty is null and void.

Definitely keeping the H115i PRO I have coming in the shrinkwrap. :cripes:

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Oct 29, 2018

Filthy Monkey
Jun 25, 2007

Never used an AIO before, but I have the 240mm eiswolf ordered for my GPU. They are taking their sweet time getting it out though. My plan was just to replace the fans with two of the new noctua NF-A12x25 fans though, as I also heard that the stock fans on it are poo poo.

If I get desperate I might try the kraken g12 with one of the compatible aios.

Khablam
Mar 29, 2012

I swear it's the users colluding into a common lie where they claim the noise is "fine, honest".
I can't speak for the new corsair, but their older fans were LOUD.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

Khablam posted:

I swear it's the users colluding into a common lie where they claim the noise is "fine, honest".
I can't speak for the new corsair, but their older fans were LOUD.

The MLs are nice. The AFs and SPs, on the other hand...

Google Express has some pretty decent promo codes going at the moment, by the way - thanks to MREBoy in the SSD thread:

FALLSAVINGS on your first transaction saves you 20% (max $20), and APPSAVE25 (only usable in the Google Express phone app) saves you 25% (max $30). Just snagged a G502 HERO for $68.79 and decided to go from my H115i PRO to an H150i PRO because the discount makes it a negligible difference in price. Hopefully the extra surface area does my 9900K good. These codes would be good for items ~$80-100 and ~$125-150 respectively (to maximize the discount), so they're ideal for peripherals and mid-grade SSDs.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Oct 29, 2018

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Coming back with a previous question nobody addressed: Would this be a good choice for running three fans off of a single header? 2 3-pin 120mm and 1 4-pin 140mm. If not, what's a decent brand for the 1 to 3 PWM splitters? I don't want to buy a poo poo one off of Amazon and have to replace it a few months later.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-...L70_&dpSrc=srch

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Coming back with a previous question nobody addressed: Would this be a good choice for running three fans off of a single header? 2 3-pin 120mm and 1 4-pin 140mm. If not, what's a decent brand for the 1 to 3 PWM splitters? I don't want to buy a poo poo one off of Amazon and have to replace it a few months later.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-...L70_&dpSrc=srch

The best thing to do is to run the fans off motherboard headers. Have you already figured out that you won't have enough headers for your project?

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I have one CPU fan header and one system fan header. I've currently got one fan blowing out in a room with a cat and dog that are perpetually shedding to the point that animal hair is my most consistent accessory.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

I have one CPU fan header and one system fan header. I've currently got one fan blowing out in a room with a cat and dog that are perpetually shedding to the point that animal hair is my most consistent accessory.

Okay sounds like a use case for a PWM controller and that one you linked seems pretty good. It's not clear to me if that hooks up to a USB header or the single PWM header you have, and I don't know if you can control each one separately with that controller if it's not USB.

School Nickname
Apr 23, 2010

*fffffff-fffaaaaaaarrrtt*
:ussr:
OK, so after looking at parts over the weekend, Intel prices are unacceptable to me. Plus with Brexit guaranteeing that hosed as hell Irish prices are gonna stay that way for a long time, I have decided to go with the following AMD build for 1080p 60fps gaming, with an eye to upgrade one of my Dell U2412Ms to a nice 1440p monitor in a year or so. I'm aiming to hunker down with this build for ~3 years in the vain hope that prices will become somewhat reasonable afterwards.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (€238.95 @ Komplett)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i PRO 75.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (€134.95 @ Komplett)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B450-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard (€116.94 @ Komplett)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€208.95 @ Komplett)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€118.95 @ Komplett)
Storage: Seagate - BarraCuda 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (€118.94 @ Komplett)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB ARMOR Video Card (€492.95 @ Komplett)
Case: NZXT - H500 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (€89.85 @ Komplett)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€114.85 @ Komplett)
Total: €1635.33
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

A few Questions:
-I've never overclocked before, but feel like using this build to start. Is the motherboard OK? And if I have a change of heart on OCing, I should just drop the h100i in favour of the stock cooler, yes?
-Is it worth my while to upgrade the CPU and GFX card to a 2700x and 1080, respectively? It would cost me an extra 300€ on Irish sites approx.
-Is the case any way decent? I'd love a recommendation for a case that would make poo poo easier to install, even if it cost me an extra 70-100€.

School Nickname fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Oct 29, 2018

Stickman
Feb 1, 2004

School Nickname posted:

OK, so after looking at parts over the weekend, Intel prices are unacceptable to me. Plus with Brexit guaranteeing that hosed as hell Irish prices are gonna stay that way for a long time, I have decided to go with the following AMD build for 1080p 60fps gaming, with an eye to upgrade one of my Dell U2412Ms to a nice 1440p monitor in a year or so. I'm aiming to hunker down with this build for ~3 years in the vain hope that prices will become somewhat reasonable afterwards.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

A few Questions:
-I've never overclocked before, but feel like using this build to start. Is the motherboard OK? And if I have a change of heart on OCing, I should just drop the h100i in favour of the stock cooler, yes?

Overclocking the 2600X is as simple as turning on Precision Boost 2 and XFR2 and letting the board auto-overclock it for you. You might be able to get some small gains manually overclocking it, but they'll be extremely minor. My understanding is that it also has some pretty hard limits on overclocking, so a H100i isn't going to significantly boost performance over a mid-range air cooler, or even the stock cooler. Unless your going for looks, I'd consider a cheaper cooling option - even the stock cooler is fine for auto-overclocking.

If you do plan on manually overclocking, consider a 2600 instead of a 2600X. It's the same chip, but binned slightly lower and without auto-overclocking or an overclocking-capable stock cooler. If it's significantly cheaper it can be a good save with no to extremely minor performance loss.

I'm not well versed on AMD boards, hopefully someone else can help here.

School Nickname posted:

-Is it worth my while to upgrade the CPU and GFX card to a 2700x and 1080, respectively? It would cost me an extra 300€ on Irish sites approx.
For gaming, the 2700X is a very minor performance boost, generally not worth the cost. A 1080 is a decent boost over a 1070 Ti, but a 1070 Ti is already more than you need for 1080p/60Hz gaming. With a 1070 Ti you should be able to pull 60 FPS at ultra even on games like FFXV with gameworks features enabled. In fact, and 1070 or 1060 6gb will do 1080p/60Hz at ultra for nearly every current game on the market.

School Nickname posted:

-Is the case any way decent? I'd love a recommendation for a case that would make poo poo easier to install, even if it cost me an extra 70-100€.

The H500 is a good case with a lot of quality of life features. It's stock negative airflow design is a little weird, but works well enough.

Stickman fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Oct 29, 2018

Khablam
Mar 29, 2012

School Nickname posted:

OK, so after looking at parts over the weekend, Intel prices are unacceptable to me. Plus with Brexit guaranteeing that hosed as hell Irish prices are gonna stay that way for a long time, I have decided to go with the following AMD build for 1080p 60fps gaming, with an eye to upgrade one of my Dell U2412Ms to a nice 1440p monitor in a year or so. I'm aiming to hunker down with this build for ~3 years in the vain hope that prices will become somewhat reasonable afterwards.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor (€238.95 @ Komplett)
CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i PRO 75.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (€134.95 @ Komplett)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B450-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard (€116.94 @ Komplett)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€208.95 @ Komplett)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€118.95 @ Komplett)
Storage: Seagate - BarraCuda 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (€118.94 @ Komplett)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB ARMOR Video Card (€492.95 @ Komplett)
Case: NZXT - H500 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (€89.85 @ Komplett)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€114.85 @ Komplett)
Total: €1635.33
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available

A few Questions:
-I've never overclocked before, but feel like using this build to start. Is the motherboard OK? And if I have a change of heart on OCing, I should just drop the h100i in favour of the stock cooler, yes?
-Is it worth my while to upgrade the CPU and GFX card to a 2700x and 1080, respectively? It would cost me an extra 300€ on Irish sites approx.
-Is the case any way decent? I'd love a recommendation for a case that would make poo poo easier to install, even if it cost me an extra 70-100€.
In your shoes, I would do this:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor (€188.95 @ Komplett)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler (€44.46 @ Custompcparts)
Motherboard: Asus - PRIME B450-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard (€116.94 @ Komplett)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory (€208.95 @ Komplett)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€118.95 @ Komplett)
Storage: Seagate - BarraCuda 4TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (€118.94 @ Komplett)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card (€294.13 @ Custompcparts)
Case: NZXT - H500 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case (€89.85 @ Komplett)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (€114.85 @ Komplett)
Total: €1296.02
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-29 19:08 GMT+0000

The cooler is the best value for performance, but the stock one is absolutely fine if you don't mind some noise (it's not a large issue).
You can get the 2600 non-X if you're happy to overclock yourself.
The new GPU generation is here, and 3 years might (or almost certainly) be too long to hold onto 10x0 series GPUs if you want to be getting new games in ~18months with all the new bells on. With that in mind, I'd grab a 1060 6Gb for now, then use your later monitor upgrade as an excuse to get something like a 2070. If RTX is still a damp squib you should hopefully be seeing cheap(er) gtx1080s and 1080Ti cards at that point. Both good for 1440p.

Wrap all that together and you come in significantly cheaper and defer some of the cost to a later GPU swap, remembering your 1060 will have some re-sale value too.

LRADIKAL
Jun 10, 2001

Fun Shoe
https://www.argotronic.com/en/

$10.90 for a 3 year Argus Monitor license. I find its' fan controls to be reliable and the ability to attach my case fans to my GPU temp are a big deal in my system.

Ulio
Feb 17, 2011


32gb for a next gen pc worth or no? What you guys think? I am still making my pc but haven't decided between 12gb or 32 gb. I already "downgraded" cpu to 8700k from 9900k since I can't find it anywhere without a long wait list.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

What's the system for? I'd go for the 32gb regardless.

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"
You're likely not going to see much more in the way of DRAM price drops in the next few months on the 2x16 3000/3200 kits. G.Skill is already around $260-280, while Corsair's LPX is ~$290-310. CAS14 and 15 sets are still around $350 for both.

I'm going with 32GB simply as a hedge against next-gen consoles (which will likely be made with 4K TVs being more common in mind) using a large shared system/video memory pool which might complicate ported games to PCs with only 16GB. That's just my concern, though - no "uncle at Nintendo" giving me the skinny.

Also, the DARK board only has two DIMM slots, so it makes sense for me to "max them out."

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

BIG HEADLINE posted:

You're likely not going to see much more in the way of DRAM price drops in the next few months on the 2x16 3000/3200 kits. G.Skill is already around $260-280, while Corsair's LPX is ~$290-310. CAS14 and 15 sets are still around $350 for both.

I'm going with 32GB simply as a hedge against next-gen consoles (which will likely be made with 4K TVs being more common in mind) using a large shared system/video memory pool which might complicate ported games to PCs with only 16GB. That's just my concern, though - no "uncle at Nintendo" giving me the skinny.

Also, the DARK board only has two DIMM slots, so it makes sense for me to "max them out."

Did you get CL14 or 15? I went with a CL16 32gb ripjaws kit.

emocrat
Feb 28, 2007
Sidewalk Technology
Is there a thread recommended heatsink for a 9600k? I am not gonna be maxing it out, probably only a modest overclock.

Looking for a suggestion other than the Noctua D15 as that is a bit pricey and also technically doesn't fit in my case (although I'm told it can it's just really tight).

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

What's your budget?

BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

VelociBacon posted:

Did you get CL14 or 15? I went with a CL16 32gb ripjaws kit.

My kit is the "M2B" CAS16 Corsair LPX set. I'd rather have a slower CAS rating and have more potential stability over time and less chance of ~miscellany~ happening than go with enthusiast-grade modules, which...as I recently checked, are the "Dominator" SKUs for Corsair, which are still running appreciably north of $400 for 32GB of DDR4-3400.

emocrat posted:

Is there a thread recommended heatsink for a 9600k? I am not gonna be maxing it out, probably only a modest overclock.

Looking for a suggestion other than the Noctua D15 as that is a bit pricey and also technically doesn't fit in my case (although I'm told it can it's just really tight).

A 9600K is effectively a soldered 8600K, so you aren't going to have to worry about thermals *as* much as you would with a 97/9900K. Assuming you're looking for ~$20 cheaper, that leaves units like the Dark Rock 4 (the Pro is Noctua-level pricing) fits that bill. Even cheaper than that, you've got the Cryorig H5 Ultimate (check clearances) at ~$50.

Lastly, if you want to stick with Noctua but also get a discount that brings it down to saner pricing levels, Google Express has this for sale, and you can knock 25% off if you use APPSALES25 in the Google Express app right now: https://express.google.com/u/0/prod...757315710_46586

It's not double-fanned, but it'll be good enough for a 9600K.

BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Oct 30, 2018

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

BIG HEADLINE posted:

My kit is the "M2B" CAS16 Corsair LPX set. I'd rather have a slower CAS rating and have more potential stability over time and less chance of ~miscellany~ happening than go with enthusiast-grade modules, which...as I recently checked, are the "Dominator" SKUs for Corsair, which are still running appreciably north of $400 for 32GB of DDR4-3400.

Yeah mine was I think $349CAD plus tax. It's fine IMO, pretty sure it won't bottleneck me.

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BIG HEADLINE
Jun 13, 2006

"Stand back, Ottawan ruffian, or face my lumens!"

VelociBacon posted:

Yeah mine was I think $349CAD plus tax. It's fine IMO, pretty sure it won't bottleneck me.

Yeah, not to mention the fact that the reviews on those Dominator ~Special Edition~ modules were less-than-stellar for sticks that evidently have "hand-screened performance ICs" and binned Samsung B-Die: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-DOMINATOR-Platinum-3000MHz-CMD32GX4M2B3000C15/dp/B01BGZEWO2?th=1

And even though now that my plans include an AIO, going with such modules would restrict me to *staying* with AIOs thanks to those ridiculously ostentatious heatspreaders. LPX modules might cost ~$20 more than G.Skill's equivalent product, but I like knowing that if I'm dissatisfied with my "AIO Experience" that I'll retain the ability to change back to a baby-head-sized HSF if/when I need/want to.

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