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My realistic dream cars are in this order: 1: Bay window VW westfalia camper with rumble bed 2: Grumman LLV 3: 1st or 2nd gen Civic (living vicariouisly through 14 inch right now) 4: OG Fiat 500 5: OG Mini My "no way no how" dream car list goes like this: 1: Splittie VW bus westfalia (same scheme as the Lego kit) 2: VW Samba bus 3: Bugatti Veyron 4: Bugatti Veyron 5: Project Binky's mini (but finished) Seeing an LLV burning hurts  Good thing there's millions more.
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Jul 1, 2015 13:43
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Splizwarf posted:D'aww, they even burn like real cars. Pretty sure its a s10 BLAZER with a GM 2.2L underneath so something something GM fire joke here.
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Jul 1, 2015 14:38
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Preoptopus posted:Pretty sure its a s10 BLAZER with a GM 2.2L underneath so something something GM fire joke here. 
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Jul 1, 2015 14:49
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Preoptopus posted:Pretty sure its a s10 BLAZER with a GM 2.2L underneath so something something GM fire joke here. Correct, the important bits are basically all drawn from the S-10. 2WD frontend, 4WD rear axle, Iron Puke on the older models and 2.2 on the newer ones. I've always wondered if a sufficiently crazy individual could cram a Syclone/Typhoon drivetrain in one, AWD and all. That would make for a stupidly fun sleeper at the drag strip.
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Jul 1, 2015 15:21
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veedubfreak posted:This thread always makes me happy I opted for the 100k mile warranty on my car, and also why I spend the extra money to buy new every few years. This thread makes me glad i own a hyundai. Ok, they arent immune to the silly design issues, but... the jarvik thermostat? who the gently caress though that was a good idea. Today i found out that in some jeeps, the EGR valve is buried right near the bottom back of the block, nearly impossible to get at.. oh.. and the inlet manifold is also the tappet cover? what the gently caress??
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Jul 1, 2015 15:27
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wolrah posted:Correct, the important bits are basically all drawn from the S-10. 2WD frontend, 4WD rear axle, Iron Puke on the older models and 2.2 on the newer ones. What about the S10 SBC swap kits? How much of the S10 front end was actually used?
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Jul 1, 2015 15:30
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:What about the S10 SBC swap kits? How much of the S10 front end was actually used? As far as I'm aware it's pretty close to exactly a 2 door Blazer/Jimmy chassis under there, so interference with the body should be the only concern.
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Jul 1, 2015 15:44
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KozmoNaut posted:It happens due to long-term neglect, lack of chain lubrication and probably riding in sand or other abrasive environments. I always replaced chain and sprocket at the same time. People dont do this? Wasabi the J posted:The chain slipping might lead to those goosebumps being removed though. suzuki TC125!!! https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...nJvva2BFUyRM%3A 4 gears, and a hi-lo range gearbox you were supposed to change over when the bike was still.. yea.. that never happened. I actually killed mine by lowsiding into a track i had worn in the horse paddock, and it turned the gearbox into shiny little pieces of time to get another bike. rainwulf fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 15:46
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rainwulf posted:I always replaced chain and sprocket at the same time. People dont do this? If you're using a steel sprocket, there's no need. Sprockets have no moving parts, but chains have a jillion.
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Jul 1, 2015 16:55
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Safety Dance posted:If you're using a steel sprocket, there's no need. Sprockets have no moving parts, but chains have a jillion. This is the opposite of everything I've ever heard about chains and sprockets.
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Jul 1, 2015 17:51
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We're still talking about motorcycles, right? A steel sprocket will last for a few chains. An aluminum sprocket probably needs to be changed every chain or two.
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Jul 1, 2015 18:06
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If you let the chain stretch to the point where it alters the shape of the sprocket (damages it), then you have to change both. Putting a new chain on a damaged sprocket will just ruin the new chain. If you change the chain before the sprocket changes shape, then you get to keep your sprocket because you haven't caused damage to it. This is true for everything with a chain and a gear. Bicycles, motorcycles, etc.
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Jul 1, 2015 18:48
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My mom has worked for USPS for 30+ years and she has absolutely nothing nice to say about LLVs. The primary issues are weak heat, no air conditioning, and no traction in snow. It is pretty dumb to use the exact same vehicle in the entire country when different regions have different weather to deal with. FYI USPS pays no local or state taxes to operate their vehicles on roads.
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Jul 2, 2015 00:08
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I figured since they're a federal sort of thing they probably didn't have to, same as military vehicles don't. They don't even run license plates, I saw a white dodge 3500 on i95 the other day with post office badges on the sides and all it had was a post office logo plate with no unit number on the license plate spot.
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Jul 2, 2015 00:47
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Preoptopus posted:Pretty sure its a s10 BLAZER with a GM 2.2L underneath so something something GM fire joke here. When i worked at pepboys we fixed al the local post office trucks. And most of them were a ford explorer in drag. Either way there a poo poo vehicle with poo poo insides.
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Jul 2, 2015 00:51
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"There was a loud explosion, and then flames started shooting out of (the vehicle)", according to the news. Also, no one was hurt, fortunately.
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Jul 2, 2015 01:41
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Geirskogul posted:2: Grumman LLV  WHY? SouthsideSaint posted:When i worked at pepboys we fixed al the local post office trucks. And most of them were a ford explorer in drag. Either way there a poo poo vehicle with poo poo insides. You're thinking of the FFV, which was a very low production vehicle (even by USPS standards) The FFV has been a bit of a clusterfuck - they were originally built to take advantage of E85 (hence Flex Fuel Vehicle), but E85 isn't widely available outside of major metro areas. Since they have a larger engine to compensate for the loss of power in E85, they're a bit more thirsty than the LLV. And of course, being a Ford 4.0 V6, they're going to cost a lot more than the LLV to keep going thanks to the hosed up timing chain setup. The LLV uses the old Iron Duke, which is a noisy underpowered pile of poo poo, but it's a pile of poo poo that just keeps chugging along, putting down a thundering 110 hp in the most powerful production version, with an eardrum-splitting redline of 5500 RPM. The FFV is supposedly a bit more comfortable, and some areas got 4x4 versions. But I might see a couple of those a year vs the Grumman LLV (the oldest of which are long past their scheduled retirement - it was originally designed to last 20 years, but they still have some of the originals from 1987 in service). wolrah posted:Correct, the important bits are basically all drawn from the S-10. 2WD frontend, 4WD rear axle, Iron Puke on the older models and 2.2 on the newer ones. Any idea what year they went to the 2.2? Wikipedia (which is always an accurate resource  ) claims they all got the Iron Duke, in both the Gruman LLV article and the Iron Duke article.
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Jul 2, 2015 01:48
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Forgot to post this, because I'm just used to everything being a horrible mechanical disaster on the Rover. ZF power steering pump decided to vomit it bearings out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sNAbheNxc0
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Jul 2, 2015 02:23
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some texas redneck posted:Any idea what year they went to the 2.2? Wikipedia (which is always an accurate resource I actually got the 2.2 part from wikipedia, all the ones I've seen have had the Duke. Presumably only in the '94 models, since that's the only year the Blazer had it which overlapped with LLV production. PBCrunch posted:The primary issues are weak heat, no air conditioning, and no traction in snow. It is pretty dumb to use the exact same vehicle in the entire country when different regions have different weather to deal with. At least the USPS seems to agree with that assessment, their RFP for the replacement specifically notes the climate control and need to occasionally plow through snow. They want both 2WD and 4x4 options for the next one. Given their stop and go driving and relatively predictable range requirements I wouldn't be surprised to see a range-extended or full EV considered for the role. wolrah fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jul 2, 2015 |
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Jul 2, 2015 02:33
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wolrah posted:Given their stop and go driving and relatively predictable range requirements I wouldn't be surprised to see a range-extended or full EV considered for the role.
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Jul 2, 2015 04:12
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PBCrunch posted:They might not want to do that until the 20+ year reliability of EVs is proven.
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Jul 2, 2015 04:33
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Wrar posted:They could do a hybrid, the first gen Prius is pushing 20 years. Holy loving poo poo  Yeah, introduced 1997, available in the US in 2001. I had no idea it was that long ago.
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Jul 2, 2015 05:06
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I think some 1st gen Priuses are still kicking in metermaid duty for some cities. I do a double take when I see one, but they are out there.
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Jul 2, 2015 05:39
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There's one right up the street from me but I live in a magical land of no rust.
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Jul 2, 2015 05:51
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Sudo Echo posted:There's one right up the street from me but I live in a magical land of no rust. Do the current LLVs succumb to rust? Might just be a matter of using thicker sheet metal if you are in fact building for durability, although it would be a bit tougher without a body-on-frame design.
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Jul 2, 2015 06:16
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Enourmo posted:Do the current LLVs succumb to rust? Might just be a matter of using thicker sheet metal if you are in fact building for durability, although it would be a bit tougher without a body-on-frame design. The bodies are aluminum.
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Jul 2, 2015 06:39
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I got a picture text from a coworker of an axle tube snapped in half. Our "needs some love" 7k trailer apparently gave up the ghost on the remaining original axle. Went over with a jack, torches and some blocks of wood and pulled the axle and drove the bastard home.  The equalizers are not supposed to be vented, or have oblong holes 
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Jul 2, 2015 06:52
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:I think some 1st gen Priuses are still kicking in metermaid duty for some cities. I do a double take when I see one, but they are out there. I still see plenty of them driving around. I always think it's an Echo until I do a double take and look at the badge. Roadkill managed to kill a 2nd gen, but they were beating on it hard, and it had right at 400k miles.
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Jul 2, 2015 09:11
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Safety Dance posted:If you're using a steel sprocket, there's no need. Sprockets have no moving parts, but chains have a jillion. Yea, but in wearing said jillion parts, the chain stretches, and deforms the teeth on the sprockets. All the bike mechanics i have ever talked to said to replace all as a set.
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Jul 2, 2015 09:41
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This is really the only sound way to do it if everything is worn as one. I have seen people throw a new rear sprocket with a different tooth count with a worn chain ( if it falls within the adjustable range) and nuke the new rear sprocket in no time. Same thing with a new chain on slightly poo poo sprockets. The customer seems to have found his way and will be doing chain and sprockets, guide insert and rollers. Along with the rest of the neglected maintenance on his bike.
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Jul 2, 2015 09:49
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On a bicycle, a new chain on a worn sprocket will give you a horrible experience. The chain is "shorter" and less worn, and the sprocket is worn, meaning that N links of chain will end up on N-1 teeth of sprocket, leading to chain skipping and/or losing the chain. Given the speed and forces involved on a motorbike, I can't imagine it would be advisable to be stingy.
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Jul 2, 2015 09:53
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bolind posted:On a bicycle, a new chain on a worn sprocket will give you a horrible experience. The chain is "shorter" and less worn, and the sprocket is worn, meaning that N links of chain will end up on N-1 teeth of sprocket, leading to chain skipping and/or losing the chain. Given the speed and forces involved on a motorbike, I can't imagine it would be advisable to be stingy. I can understand the reluctance, changing a sprocket usually revolves pulling the rear axle bolt out and messing with the side cover over the primary sprocket, and heaven help the last bastard who welded on that loving nut OMFG My dad has been riding bikes since he was a wee lad, and same with me, and yea, i have always replaced them as a set, especially since the front one wears quicker then the rear. perhaps on super low power bikes and mountainbikes/bmxes i guess, but on a motorbike, its never been an option for me. Precut chain length, front sprocket, rear sprocket, and a bit of swearing as you find a way to keep the back of the bike up. I even heard thats the reason front sprockets have an odd number of teeth? To help spread chain wear and sprocket wear, but i have no anecdotal evidence of that. Then there is the mind gently caress of NYLON rear sprockets!!!
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Jul 2, 2015 10:31
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Ideally they should be coprime, not just odd. Consider a situation where you have one gear with 7 teeth and another with 21 (3 to 1 ratio). Every revolution of the large gear, a tooth on the small gear hits the same 3 teeth on the large. If one tooth on the small gear is damaged, it wears the 3 teeth it contacts on the large gear without affecting the other 18. Those 3 will wear out prematurely with the rest being pristine, but you'll eventually get either slippage or teeth breaking off. If the larger gear instead has 22 teeth (3.14 to 1), the damaged tooth only repeats a tooth every 22*7 meshes, or every 7 revolutions of the large gear (as opposed to 1/3 revolution) and it contacts every other tooth in between. Which like you said spreads the wear out, but it's not necessarily odd numbers. Incidentally this is why rear ends have odd ratios like 4.11:1 (9 tooth pinion, 37 tooth ring gear) or 3.70:1 (10 and 37) as opposed to an even 4:1. Then with chain drive, the chain, drive and driven sprocket all 3 have to be coprime to each other. /sperg
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Jul 2, 2015 10:52
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some texas redneck posted:I still see plenty of them driving around. I always think it's an Echo until I do a double take and look at the badge. To be fair they did run it over with a tank...  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7DFzl6ZU5k
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Jul 2, 2015 11:39
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Enourmo posted:Ideally they should be coprime, not just odd. Cool!  
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Jul 2, 2015 11:52
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Started to get some clunking on the front passenger side and found the following. Pressed in lower ball joint has come loose in the control arm, retaining clip is going its job keeping it from popping out but its got to be fixed quick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMkoWmi5OaI Control arm bushing on the same side has called it quits and is trying to escape.  And the steering rack is shot, leaking on the passenger side in need of a newer inner tie rod. I'm going to replace the whole rack but not thrilled about how much of a bitch it will be to do by my self. Real tempted to take my wife car shopping and see about ditching my patroit while were there. There is a 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth for a nice price calling my name as well as a base model 2wd Tacoma.
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Jul 2, 2015 15:42
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Enourmo posted:Ideally they should be coprime, not just odd. Consider a situation where you have one gear with 7 teeth and another with 21 (3 to 1 ratio). Every revolution of the large gear, a tooth on the small gear hits the same 3 teeth on the large. If one tooth on the small gear is damaged, it wears the 3 teeth it contacts on the large gear without affecting the other 18. Those 3 will wear out prematurely with the rest being pristine, but you'll eventually get either slippage or teeth breaking off. If the larger gear instead has 22 teeth (3.14 to 1), the damaged tooth only repeats a tooth every 22*7 meshes, or every 7 revolutions of the large gear (as opposed to 1/3 revolution) and it contacts every other tooth in between. Thanks for that gear lesson. I had always wondered why they were weird ratios.
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Jul 2, 2015 16:36
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rainwulf posted:
When I've replaced a chain, it's usually because my idiot friend or sometimes, let's be honest, I hasn't lubed it in forever and it's rusted to poo poo. Sprockets are still good, but the chain is frozen. Slap on a new chain, button it up, and lube it more often.
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Jul 2, 2015 16:44
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Enourmo posted:Ideally they should be coprime, not just odd. Consider a situation where you have one gear with 7 teeth and another with 21 (3 to 1 ratio). Every revolution of the large gear, a tooth on the small gear hits the same 3 teeth on the large. If one tooth on the small gear is damaged, it wears the 3 teeth it contacts on the large gear without affecting the other 18. Those 3 will wear out prematurely with the rest being pristine, but you'll eventually get either slippage or teeth breaking off. If the larger gear instead has 22 teeth (3.14 to 1), the damaged tooth only repeats a tooth every 22*7 meshes, or every 7 revolutions of the large gear (as opposed to 1/3 revolution) and it contacts every other tooth in between. Neat! Thanks for the info.
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Jul 2, 2015 17:43
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Enourmo posted:Ideally they should be coprime, not just odd. Consider a situation where you have one gear with 7 teeth and another with 21 (3 to 1 ratio). Every revolution of the large gear, a tooth on the small gear hits the same 3 teeth on the large. If one tooth on the small gear is damaged, it wears the 3 teeth it contacts on the large gear without affecting the other 18. Those 3 will wear out prematurely with the rest being pristine, but you'll eventually get either slippage or teeth breaking off. If the larger gear instead has 22 teeth (3.14 to 1), the damaged tooth only repeats a tooth every 22*7 meshes, or every 7 revolutions of the large gear (as opposed to 1/3 revolution) and it contacts every other tooth in between. This post made me go dust off my copy of Cryptonomicon  Stephenson goes off on a 4 page tangent about exactly this issue, and how it can relate to cryptography
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Jul 2, 2015 18:56
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